Team-BHP (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)

-   Shifting gears (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shifting-gears/)

-   -   Recommended water purifier? (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shifting-gears/24222-recommended-water-purifier-58.html)

I am servicing my RO water filter since last 8 years. You can find information about RO parts on the web to know functions of each RO parts.

I would suggest you to first do below yourself-

- Install a sendiment filter outside the RO filter. It will stop dust at the first stage so that life of the internal filters will be increased.

- Buy a TDS meter to check the water hardness so that you know when to change the RO membrane.

- Company fitted RO membrane comes inside sealed housee. To replace RO membrane yourself, buy RO housee along with RO membrane. I use Hi-Tech RO membrane. Whenever you replace RO membrane, don't forget to replace Flow Restrictor.

- Start replacing sendiment and carbon filters yourself.

One important information -
Many RO filters have filter change alarms. These alarms are not based on filter conditions but based on the time. E.g. after every one year these alarms will start beeping irrespective of filters conditions. Filter will stop working after some days so don't be panic. There is a procedure to reset these alarms. You may find this too on the web. No need to wait till filter to stop working, you can reset it within few days of beeps coming.

Nowadays there are lot of talk about what should be TDS level in our drinking water as less the TDS more the water tastes better. I guess that typically RO machines deliver less than 50 TDS to maintain good taste. But this may not be good for our health. Not sure what is the right thing to do.

Good to see that there are people who are into water filter diy since its very rare. BTW, I asked not for me, thought of sharing everyones' experience so that it will help people who are spending a lot for AMC and sealed filters. You can build a far far better unit than the branded ones for half the cost.

I made my RO filter myself based on CSM membrane with KR green FR + 2 paper prefilters + 3 colandas RO filters + Lexpure pump + SS UV chamber + Philips lamp + Biocera alkaline cartridge. These are some of the best in the market however costed me only 7-8k only and far far better than the readymade ones. For tank I bought an EF container (Amrut 20L), people can use earthern pots too which is a natural water PH neutralizer.

Auto Flush kits are available in the market for around 900-1000. I made one using an arduino which controls other functions to automate it.

True, however the sealed ones are risky too if we get it outside. Kent \ Auqa (even their expensive ones) is using DOW Filtmtec which is available for 1200+ only. To verify the genuineness, we can check it in their website using the serial number.

I am using another method to predict based on the flow rate using an arduino controller, its WIP


A TDS level of 100+ is good to drink. Since people are after taste many gimmicks are being done even in the branded ones too. A good quality RO membrane will strip the entire minerals from the water with TDS ~15-20pps in case of the pre tds ~300-400. The lesser pre tds it will be in the 5 which is nothing but distilled water. Now a days most branded ones are using a TDS adjuster (should be avoided at any cost), they are mixing the prefiltered water to the filtered water!!! Instead use a good quality mineral cartridge, Biocera is the best available. Most imp, use RO only if its required, I have seen people using it even with tds ~150-200

Thanks for useful information. I have a Kent RO pearl model, any idea how to get this added ?

First test the actual tds before and after the RO without any addon cartridges. Skip the manual TDS adjuster if any. Biocera or the mineral addon cartridges are added as the last one after the post carbon filter. Its directly plug n play kinda cartridge. It wont make a huge difference in the TDS, however its the best available mineral cartridge (many expensive filters are also using this one in different OEM shapes). Avoid smaller ones, material and layers makes a huge difference. Get it from an authorized seller. I think the pearl comes with a very small mineral cartridge. Also it has the normal diy design so that you can convert it into your own based on the requirement, no need to use their fixed or sealed filters or cartridges.

Following is the recommended path :
External sediment PreFilters (2nos recommended, paper or thread is better than spun candle) >> Sediment n Carbon block filter >> Pump >> RO membrane >> UV >> Post Carbon filter >> Alkaline cartridge

Note : To extend the life of the RO membrane, you can use anti-scaling \ water softener balls in the prefilters. Most people dont know about this product. It helps in extending the life of the membrane almost double.

How good are under the sink water purifiers? Is anyone using one? Reviews please?

We have a TDS level of 95-100 in our apartment. I am only a little worried about water borne diseases, considering the TDS level is superb.

Would it make sense to get a UF filter?

For the interest of other readers: https://www.kitchenarena.in/ro-vs-uv-vs-uf/

Are there any well known brands which make a UF Filter? Does it have any consumables which need to be replaced/serviced regularly?

Isnt this one used by a fellow member? https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/shift...ml#post4613174

That doesn't say UF anywhere - are all Gravity filters same as UF?

Also - are there UF filters which can be permanently connected to a tap to fill it easily?

Have a look at this: https://www.pureitwater.com/IN/purei...t-advanced-23l

Directly connected to tap is a good idea. But not sure if anyone has done this. Most of these filters ask to maintain an air gap at the top to allow gravity to do its work.

Let me also research and find out. I have to buy one in a few days.

What you need is a good UF filtration + UV. Most of the UF filters or cartridges available in the market are closed small ones and many are fake (if you cut it open you will be surprised to see the materials used). Never use any of them. There is one UF membrane from BARC similar to RO membrane and can be used in an RO membrane housing with pure water and reject water (need to put a flow restrictor of ~450). This doesn't need any booster pump, can work in 20-25psi pressure, too much pressure will damage it.

Rest of the setup is the same as an RO filter

2 prefilters (with anti-scaling \ water softener balls) + sediment+precarbon block >> UF membranne (with optional auto flush mechanism) >> UV >> post carbon or a biocera cartridge


Under sinks needs a pressure booster tank, usually, it deteriorates with time as it uses a rubber balloon to build pressure inside the storage tank. Also if the quality of the balloon is not good, it can affect the stored water too.

My god, all this just went way over my head, considering I just started reading about water filters today lol:

Why do you think I need UV? Isn't UF enough? From my understanding, so you can help me better:

1. R.O.: needed only if the TDS levels are over 300 or so, and you are not sure about the dissolved metals content (arsenic etc).
- How the heck do I know if my water has arsenic?

2. UV: Kills all germs/pathogens, but does not eliminate them. You are efectively drinking dead bacteria and their eggs with a pure UV system.

3. UF: Removes all germs and pathogens, hence better than the UV system.

I thought for a TDS level of 95-100, a regular gravity based UF system would be enough? please:

This particular unit seems interesting and claims to do a lot more than the mainstream brands: https://ecocrystal.in/pot-filter

From what I have further come across, it looks like only Kent boldly claims to have UF gravity filters. The rest of the competition dont seem to want to mention UF anywhere.

Further, KENT has a model called GOLD AS which apparently also removes arsenic from the water it filters.

The biggest issue which most people seem to complain about is:

1. the speed at which these gravity things work. Apparently over night.
2. The filters need to be washed every day.
3. The filters need to be changed every couple of months.

Is this for real?

MODS, please merge with above post.

Has anyone used these guys? What do you think?

https://www.livpuresmart.com/#how-works

Their set up is a definite overkill for what i need however.

Please refer to my comments for your above points -

1. It is not true, the filtration hardly takes one hour at the max to fill complete water tank (Referring to gravity based filter that I have i.e. Eureka Forbes Aquasure).

2. Not at all, I clean filters once a month. The frequency may change depending upon the quality of intake water.

3. The filter in my purifier has capacity of around 1500 liters with auto cut off once filter reaches end of life. Even if you use 10 liters of water every day, it will last over 150 days i.e. over 5 months at the minimum. Some filters have life over 3000 liters depending upon the model purchased.