[Odeen12]

Hey Everybody.

As every formal email begins!
With the most hated opening sentence of 2020, let me ask "Hope all good with you?!"

Been some time since i updated this thread. And what better reason as the picture below.



I will have more soon as i am trying to gather my thoughts and put things in perspective. Will try and make a video if possible.

Cheers! And stay safe ya'll.

[Odeen12]

Almost 3 years of owning the GSXR. Some pictures which are just joy as far as i am concerned.














A few bits and bobs that went on.

Tires
After wearing out the stock Bridgestone S21’s it was time to procure a new set of shoes. Zeroed in on the Pirelli Supercorsas. Front was at 120/70, however changed the rear to a 200/55 instead of the 190/55.

Now don’t get me wrong. But the term “Horses for courses” could not have been clearer. The Supercorsas are a great set of rubber. And on creamy, beautifully laid tarmac roads of Europe or Americas these will be a lovely edition to your motorcycle to do some spirited canyon carving.
However, you mix the same set of tires with regular Indian conditions and you will have every nuance of the road etched into your muscle memory. There was so much feedback from the road that it would bother me on longish rides and tire my wrists very quickly.
And yes, the wheel were balanced before putting the new set Supercorsas on.
These are made for a specific purpose and that was not what I was putting them through or could.

Moved to another set of Pirelli’s. But this is time the Diablo Rosso 3’s. 120/70 Front and a 190/55 at the rear.
Reading as many reviews as possible these felt like the perfect balance between comfort and sport riding.



I had set the bike’s suspension basis help from Dave Moss for a 200 rear. Wrote to him and got new setting. Wheel balanced and suspension settings changed the bike is so much, umm so much more fun to ride. Still has that tactile confidence you want from a good tire but because of a more road friendly construction in the middle, the tire is bloody damn forgiving.
Pros
- Tips in beautifully into corners.
- Warm up quickly.
- Got caught out in the rain once and the tires behaved wonderfully dispersing water and adhering to the road even when in speeds of triple digits.




I have been told these will wear out soon too as they are more oriented towards performance. But in the current scheme of things with the kind of rides I do, these look like a good choice. I will come back though with more feedback as I have more miles on the same.


Gilles Brake Lever Guard.

I had swapped my OEM clip-on’s for Gilles GP Light 2 clip-on’s.
Reason for doing so was primarily from an ergonomics and adjustability POV. Plus you get the added benefit, if in an unfortunate crash, unlike the stock clip-ons you might only have to change the bars without removing the clamps.

Suzuki’s historically have been quite comfortable motorcycles to ride on. They are not as committed as other European or even its Japanese cousins.

The stock clip on which come with the bike are sort of narrow and restrict where and how you sit on the motorcycle. With the motorcycle I felt I was sitting way upright and my elbows too close to my ribs, being 6-foot-tall, I wanted some wiggle room on the seat. And a wider stance when grabbing the bars for batter control and feel.
And the Gilles set seemed like a good option. With its fixed angle of 6 degrees, the set seemed like a good compromise between a sporty and comfortable riding position. And after riding for some time now I stand by that decision.
With good things there seems to be a catch as well. In the case of the Gilles set, it’s the design. The bars get narrow towards the end of the throttle. Which means I was restricted to look for options as far as bar end weights or even lever guards within the Gilles product brochure. Luckily their design and finishing of their products is on point. If they are good for Rossi’s M1 or the BMW HP4, I am sure they’d fare well on the Suzuki.



The lever guard’s is simple but effective and adjustable again. Might look vanilla, but that’s ok. As long as it was black and does its job in the event if the motorcycle goes down and saves the Master cylinder and my hand. Honestly, I never want to put it through its courses.




Pièce de résistance.
Woolich Racing Log Box, Zeitronix Wideband O2 Controller and Race Tools.



If you have followed this thread, you'd know last year i flashed the bike from Mantra Racing in Bangalore. And to be honest they did a great job. Activated the QS and Blipper which worked flawlessly.
However i felt the bike was lacking in the way it performed. Not there was no power or felt sluggish, but i am coming from a usability POV. The throttle was harsh. The vibes massive and overall i felt the fuelling could have been better. But for Mantra as well, to get more data meant i had to keep sending the ECU to them to weak and make some minor corrections as needed. Which meant downtime for me. Which sucks.

The only way to break this cycle was to get a kit which i could work with and is relatively easy to understand. Will have tech back up and globally people using the same. So that i can hop on a forum and ask the relevant questions if i do get stuck someplace.

The cherry on top is the fact, narula123, another member has been rocking the Woolich kit for sometime now. If i get stuck i know whom to call at 3 AM

I asked Mantra to reflash the ECU to stock and return the same to me. So that i can take over from here on.


Breaking down what each component specifically does. And elaborate as much as possible with some screen shots from the software.

Woolich Racing Log Box.

The Log box allows you read / write flash your ECU via the Woolich software.
It automatically logs engine data from the ECU to an on-board micro SD card whenever you ride your motorcycle. When you are ready to tune your bike, you can connect the log box to your laptop via a standard USB cable.




Zeitronix Wideband O2 Controller

The Zeitronix unit’s purpose is datalogging via the Wideband O2 sensor which comes as part of the entire Woolich package.
This data gets logged to the memory card installed in the Woolich Log Box.
The features for the unit are accessible through the Woolich software under the Autotune tab.



Race Tools.

Race tools is a piece of hardware, which replaces your stock shift road with the Woolich one that has a sensor to engage Upshifts and Downshifts.



The installation and the shenanigans.

Installing the Log Box.
If you go through the manual it say’s, the entire process takes around 30 mins. The process is simple really. Remove the ECU from it’s stock harness.


Press the locking tab on the centre of the larger ECU plug to release the Plug,
Remove the ECU plug by pushing the rotating locking arm on the ECU plug with your thumb.


Use a small screwdriver to push down the white pin locks on the larger ECU plug.


Locate the blank pin at positions. Covered with the relevant dust caps. You need to pry these out using a small picking tool or a paper clip.


Once the dust caps are out, insert the wires in their designated location as per manual from Woolich. This is a delicate process as you do not want to damage the locking pins or the ECU. When the pins go through you will hear a click which should indicate a solid connection. Take your time here.


Once the wires are secured lightly tug on them to see if they are well seated.



Connect the ECU back and install the same on the motorcycle.


Locate the SDS plug which is under the rear seat and connect the Woolich harness onto the same.

And this is done.


Installing Zeitronix
Here you need some work and a soft measuring tape.
You will need to disconnect the narrowband sensor from the motorcycle’s exhaust. As I have the Akrapovic full system, it comes with a provision to accept the wideband sensor. If your bike does not have that provision, you can order a separate O2 bung from Woolich which can be welded on to your pipes.
Infact if you write to them, they can guide you on what part specifically needs to be ordered.
Install the Wideband O2 sensor. Which gets connected to the Zeitronix box. Try and place the Z box away from significant vibrations. Once placed in an idea location, you can hold it down with the help of the Velcro stickers provided by Woolich. (I lost mine) And had to order a set off Amazon.


You will also need a pair of block off plates. In my case I got the ones from Driven racing. These are simple metal plates which get bolted on in place of the pair valve assembly which should be located under the fuel tank. This is critical to get accurate AFR readings from Autotune.



Remember I told you about keeping a soft measuring tape handy. That will be needed now. In the Woolich software you will need to add Gas offset values. Which is basically calculated via the Autotune algorithm. You have to measure the Header pipe diameter and the length of the pipe from the top to the Wideband sensor. And update these numbers in the software. Here's a glimpse of the same when i was feeding in the necessary data.




QS / Blipper
This is pretty straightforward. Remove the stock shift rod and replace the same with the supplied shift rod from Woolich which will have the strain gauge sensor.


Once you have replaced the OE shift rod you need to route the sensor wire up and under the fuel tank. Use zip ties to keep the wire in place and let the wire have some amount of slack to it.


Locate and disconnect the Tip Over Sensor Plug on the bike. You will find the Tip Over Sensor underneath the Fuel Tank. Connect the Woolich Racing harness into the Tip Over Sensor.


Connect the matching Tip Over Sensor Plug in line with the Woolich Race Tools
Harness.


The Race Tools software is configured by clicking the “Advanced Settings” button on the Main screen in the Woolich Racing Tuned (WRT) software.


Enable the Quickshifter / Autoblipper setting.

Once installed and the QS/Blipper activated via Woolich, all you have to do is turn the same on through the motorcycle menu.

Things done via the Woolich Flash
- Remove the Top Speed Limiter.
- Adjust fan temperature – Have adjusted this for the fan to come on at 85 degrees instead of the factory setting of 100 Celsius.
- Activated QS / Blipper
- Disable exhaust valve. As I have a full system do not need this. Which means I also was able to remove the servo motor and free up some space in the tail.
-Disabled Pair Valves. The block off plates added. The stock unit comes off completely including the reed valves.
- Disable engine breaking. This allows smooth transitions between on and off throttle.

[Odeen12]

Finally Woolich recommends fresh fluids, air filter and Spark plugs on your motorcycle when you flash the ECU.

Changed the following.

Engine oil to Maxima 10-40 Extra4 Full synthetic oil.


Coolant changed to Maxima Coolaide.


Brake Oil changed – Racing Brake Oil Series 600


Spark Plugs – NGK Laser Iridium plugs.


Air Filter – MWR Performance Air filter for street use.


Phew this was a long post/s but it was a massive update on the motorcycle as well.

The only thing to do now is ride the bike. I want to get some long rides in so as to get as much data as possible to tune the fuel map for the motorcycle.



Onwards and Upwards!!!

[Odeen12]

Small update on the motorcycle. She has completed 12500kms. And i love it!

As per my last post i had installed the Woolich system on her.
With that had changed
- All fluids.
- New Air filter from MWR
- New spark plugs.
Got a few good long rides in and was able to tune a really good map for her. So all in all great stuff.

Everything was working fine and then suddenly all stopped. Usual summer Sunday had taken her out for a ride to this place called Charoti, which is on the Mumbai - Gujrat highway, some 85-86kms one way from my place.

Our regular Sunday jaunts lead to this restaurant called Atithi. Had coffees. Spoke rubbish and then left. There is a U' turn post the hotel towards Gujrat and a bunk next to it. Decided to fuel up before the journey back home. When i went to start the bike again, for some reason my dash went haywire. Played around with the run switch, turned the key on and off a few times but nothing. The fuel pump would not prime. Thought there was an issue with one of the fuses. Parked the bike in the shade and checked. Nothing wrong. Went over the main ignition fuse too and it seemed ok. Fooled around a little and voila! the bike started. Kept her running and quickly put all the panels on her and left from there.




We stopped again at a toll to wait for a few friends. And i switched off the bike. And that's when whatever i did, she did not come back on. Called for a flatbead and got her towed to the mechanic who had installed the Woolich unit on her.

To me, electrical problems on a bike is like explaining the plot of "Predestination" to a 5 year old.

So we set ourselves a task to go over everything which was necessary. Downloaded the shop manual for the bike.
- Ignition Fuse.
- Ignition Switch. (Apparently Suzuki's are notorious with those)
- Main harness. Which runs to the cluster.
- Battery.
- Main harness which connects to the ECM.
Check for any cuts or if any wires were sliced which we were not aware of.

After going over everything on the motorcycle we could not figure what the issue was. As the mechanic was quite far from where I live, going over to his garage became a task. I decided to bring her to Zubin’s workshop which is in Bandra East. Which meant work from home for me was work from Zubin’s workshop.
Towed her back on a Sunday evening. Zubin was kind enough to come and open his garage. We tried turning the key over while talking and the bike started. Everything was working fine. Obviously there was an issue with some connection gone wrong somewhere.

We decided we should remove the the Woolich hardware barring the quick shifter. But instead of stripping everything down do it in parts.
First came off the log box. And the bike started fine. No problem there. So we put it back.
Then we removed the Zeitronix AFR controller and the bike started fine. No problem.
Put everything on and the same problem over all again. At some point while the key was turned on Zubin happened to tap on the Zeitronix box. And the bike primed immediately. Made a small video of this. So basically there was an issue with the electrical pulse which was causing the issue and the ECU was going into a fail safe mode.

Short Video here.

https://youtu.be/J8WkC8-d6jk

We decided to take the units off and let the bike be as it is. Considering she is already running with a tuned map there should not be any issues. The QS and Blipper is still active works like a charm on the motorcycle.

Wrote to Woolwich, sent the video and they were baffled as well with the problem. We discussed that I should send the unit back to them for a warranty claim. However Covid had other plans. And I have not been able to ship the units to them.

I have ben thinking what could be the culprit. I checked on Suzuki forums and have been told that the Zeitronix box is quite sensitive to water. So if anything seeped into that could have caused the problem.

To credit Woolich the manual does state to install the box in a place which would typically be dry. Which I did but I guess in my gusto to clean the motorcycle I would have let water in.

Spoke to this guy who runs a Moto America team with Suzuki's and he faced a similar issue. Here is his video. With him the dash would not let him select the traction map.
And apparently they have not been able to sort it. From there on the team has just moved on to the Yoshi ECU's.
He shared this video with me.

https://youtu.be/MatDw70ffRY

When the unit works it’s a fantastic piece of kit. You can keep tweaking parameters on the bike to make it run better and eventually make more power. I might just purchase new hardware and get this fitted all over again. Because why not?


There was another issue that’s come up which again Suzuki’s are notorious for is the Gear position sensor. Mine is busted. So now on the dash I don’t know which gear I am in between 2nd and 5th. 1st and 6th are promptly displayed. The part took some time to get here via Suzuki dealership. Will put it on when the next service is due.



In the meantime ordered some small bits for the bike. That are to go one yet, but here goes.

Zeta Flight Remote Adjuster
This provides fine adjustments to the brake lever from the left side handlebar. Will work with any Brembo or other master cylinder with a post-style adjuster with a removable knob.



Vortex 7 degrees clip ons.
Note that I have the Gilles GP light slip ons on the bike. However I feel they are more set towards a flatter offset. I wanted something for my height which could give me leverage to tuck in better. So lets see how this pans out.



Gilles Gear shaft support (Shiftholder)
This is a nifty piece of kit. The OG gear shaft sits too far out of the casing which can cause bending etc when riding hard. The gear shaft support is designed to reduce the free play on the bikes gear shaft providing a fast and positive shifting. It’s quite easy to fit and has decent reviews on the forum. Should help with the longevity of the gearbox.



ValterMoto Front and Rear Axel Protectors
Read reviews that they are good with protection. Comes with their specific adapters to quickly fit on the bike. And yes, they look good too.




Monsoons are here but sneaked in a quick ride. Which was cut short with more rains.
My body can’t take this cleaning any more. Pictures are worth a 1000 words.


Dirty Rear Close up


Rear Profile


Dirty Profile


Post shipping my spine to Hamamatsu.







Once i put everything on, barring the Woolich unit will report how the bike feels.

[krishnaprasadgg]

Lovely mods there Odeen.

Those Gilles parts are just epic! I bet the material quality would be insanely good.

I do have a few questions though.

About the Zeitronix AFR controller, shouldn't they replace the current unit if it is behaving a bit finicky? Or did you get it as a set from Woolich?
Only asking since you said you contacted Woolich about the issue so I figured it came as a set from them.

About the Zeta Flight Remote Adjuster, if you don't mind me asking, how much did this cost you? I happened to see one of these from Brembo I believe in RevZilla and it was a whopping 250 Dollars or so, the CorsaCorta MC in itself was only 370 or so.

About the ValterMoto Front and Rear Axel Protectors. The looks remind me of the type of quick-release axle system used in Isle of Man, WSBK, Endurance races, and GP level competition.
As you said and can see in the pic the different types of adapter used, I was just wondering if it would be a bother to get the wheel off on the road/ roadside shops(for whatever reason) wouldn't it be an issue?

I feel you about the dirty bike post rides issue. I haven't ridden my bike in over 2.5 months and it is absolutely filthy from the previous ride, but I am just lazy that I can't get myself to clean it. Need to get to that sometime today.

I hope you get the Electrical gremlin sorted out soon.

Cheers
Krishna

[Odeen12]

Originally Posted by krishnaprasadgg

Lovely mods there Odeen.

Those Gilles parts are just epic! I bet the material quality would be insanely good.

Thank you Krishna! Oh the Gilles quality is pretty good. I have the GP light version clipons. But they have another version which are called Variobars. They are machined better and have more adjustability. But stupid expensive.

About the Zeitronix AFR controller, shouldn't they replace the current unit if it is behaving a bit finicky? Or did you get it as a set from Woolich?
Only asking since you said you contacted Woolich about the issue so I figured it came as a set from them.

I got the Zeitronix unit from Woolich itself. Plus out of my curiosity i went ahead and disassembled the AFR unit and the Log box to see what goes on inside. Now even if i send them in for a warranty claim, i don't think they will accept my claim.

About the Zeta Flight Remote Adjuster, if you don't mind me asking, how much did this cost you? I happened to see one of these from Brembo I believe in RevZilla and it was a whopping 250 Dollars or so, the CorsaCorta MC in itself was only 370 or so.

Oh the Brembo ones are mad expensive. This i got for some 8.5K. CNC makes a good looking kit too.
The CorsaCorta is an expensive kit and i feel you brother
Maybe you could look at the RCS 17 and the 19, depending on your callipers which works better. Unless you have taken the plunge already

About the ValterMoto Front and Rear Axel Protectors. The looks remind me of the type of quick-release axle system used in Isle of Man, WSBK, Endurance races, and GP level competition.
As you said and can see in the pic the different types of adapter used, I was just wondering if it would be a bother to get the wheel off on the road/ roadside shops(for whatever reason) wouldn't it be an issue?

These come out quite easily. Infact the design is such that if you pair it with a quick release system it gets easier for you to hold the wheel and pull them out. But as i have come to realise everything for these motorcycles is just priced at the value of gold.

I feel you about the dirty bike post rides issue. I haven't ridden my bike in over 2.5 months and it is absolutely filthy from the previous ride, but I am just lazy that I can't get myself to clean it. Need to get to that sometime today.

I am not riding till September end. I cannot do this. I have an Activa that will give me much joy and i will just use that.

I hope you get the Electrical gremlin sorted out soon.

Unfortunately the Woolich unit was the problem. I really want to put that on the bike, like i said its a wonderful piece of equipment.
On the GPS sensor that's a simple swap so hopefully should go without too many niggles..fingers crossed.

[neil.jericho]

Odeen12, Im glad to note that you were able to identify the cause of the electrical problems. I really enjoy reading about all the upgrades that you have added to your bike to take it to the next level. Though we are in primarily what is a car enthusiasts forum, some of the mods that I read about in the motorcycling section are classy, drool worthy, and not to mention expensive!

What do you use to clean and lube your chain? All your back breaking work seems to have paid off, it looks spotless.

[Odeen12]

Originally Posted by neil.jericho

Odeen12, Im glad to note that you were able to identify the cause of the electrical problems. I really enjoy reading about all the upgrades that you have added to your bike to take it to the next level. Though we are in primarily what is a car enthusiasts forum, some of the mods that I read about in the motorcycling section are classy, drool worthy, and not to mention expensive!

What do you use to clean and lube your chain? All your back breaking work seems to have paid off, it looks spotless.

Hi Neil!!

Hope all good with you.

Thank you for your kind words.

Yea man. These electrical problems are the worse. Especially to diagnose what the issue is. But onwards and upwards on that front.

Have been using Putoline Chain cleaner and their Drytech lubricant. Or will use Yamalube. In the rains i tend to steer towards the latter for that extra protection.
I have used Kerosene as well to clean the chain. And it works great.

Recently purchased this,
https://www.fc-moto.de/en/S100-Chain...-for-Kettenmax

Will try this and update you on how goes..

[narula123]

Originally Posted by Odeen12

I am not riding till September end. I cannot do this. I have an Activa that will give me much joy and i will just use that.

we both know that's not happening

Think of this bike-washing workout as your dance of glory to the Japanese gods for making such a beautiful machine for you.

[Odeen12]

A small but significant update.


The motorcycle has completed 12,800kms or so. And I keep adding parts to her, to keep me interested and also the motorcycle look spiffing.

Between being in advertising and Bombay monsoons, the motorcycle kind of got neglected. With 18hr work days and travel, I yearned when I could ride again. Unfortunately there does not seem to be any respite till October at least.

The flip side to this is, that I get to do the necessary work on the bike. Apart from adding new parts to the bike, I am absolutely particular about what goes on with the motorcycle with things you don’t see. Considering the age of the bike and Bombay moisture/humidity etc, roads, general conditions, I wanted to overhaul the motorcycle on components which were necessary and those which needed replacement.

Made a list of things. And here we are.
- Check all bearings. (A lot of people neglect these. But it’s critical to keep an eye out for wear and tear) I will detail out this with pictures in my next post.

- Wiring. Due to the Woolich faux pax there were some wires which need to be tucked in. I have not made up my mind if I should just remove the entire system considering the bike is flashed and tuned. But the mess was bugging me and i wanted to button up and route these wires cleaner than what was done.

- Replace Gear Position Sensor

- Want to check the valve clearances.

- Check the exhaust flanges etc.

- Radiator needs a flush. And a new refill of coolant.

- Brakes need to be adjusted and bled with new oil.

- Want to overhaul the forks. Add new oil. The seals are new, so sorted on that front.

So basically before I put new parts on, the motorcycle needs a refresh before getting some new tasty bits.

Leave you with a couple of pictures. Excuse the dirty bike, blame the quintessential Bombay muck.

[no_fear]

Originally Posted by Odeen12

A small but significant update.

That giant hammer in the first pic - I hope you are not going all hathoda tyagi on the poor GSXer

Nice updates, its always a pleasure to see pics of bikes being worked on.

[Odeen12]

Originally Posted by no_fear

That giant hammer in the first pic - I hope you are not going all hathoda tyagi on the poor GSXer

Nice updates, its always a pleasure to see pics of bikes being worked on.

LOL. The hammer was used as a nudge and everything fell in place, no pun intended..

Working on motorcycles is a happy place for me. This is fun.

[doga]

Beautiful bike there @Odeen12. Working on your own bike can be a bit frustrating but ultimately is very rewarding. I however do feel that too much dedication on this front has its own pitfalls. You tend to keep on doing somewhat needless 'repairs' and upgrades, so much so that you ride much less than you 'repair' upgrade the bike. Having gone through that cycle, I sometimes think the nonchalant superbike dude who cannot tell his valve shims from his washers, is actually having much more fun than me

On another note, I must say that frame on the Suzuki is the most svelte frame I have seen on recent superbikes. It must be structurally sound and up to the punishment that motor and our roads metes out to it, but I can't help but recall the frame cracking problems the K5 had. Again it'd be unthinkable that Suzuki wouldn't have learnt from it, but I can't help but think that weight saving may have some side effects in future. Hope not though! Let me end this on a positive note by reminding you of this- 20 odd days for the monsoons to end!

[Odeen12]

Originally Posted by doga

On another note, I must say that frame on the Suzuki is the most svelte frame I have seen on recent superbikes. It must be structurally sound and up to the punishment that motor and our roads metes out to it, but I can't help but recall the frame cracking problems the K5 had. Again it'd be unthinkable that Suzuki wouldn't have learnt from it, but I can't help but think that weight saving may have some side effects in future. Hope not though! Let me end this on a positive note by reminding you of this- 20 odd days for the monsoons to end!

The new frame is lighter and narrower than the older version. It's designed to have a certain amount of flex and rigidity to work in conjunction with new bracing in the engine. Which apparently is better than the earlier models.
What they also did was relocate the welding points where some welds have become a single piece of the frame.
Having said that i haven't come across anyone on forums with any issues.

But if you hit anything hard enough, it will break.

[Odeen12]

This was a super run on this Blue Baby!!

Mods request you to please update the description as " Sold! "

Thank you!!!