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-   -   Mahindra Scorpio : Issues & Solutions (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/101716-mahindra-scorpio-issues-solutions-131.html)

OK, I presume after 4 chirps you entered the 4th digit using the valet switch. If yes, then did you :-

Turn vehicles key to Ignition 'ON' & keep it 'ON' for 10 secs? One long beep confirms the completion of secret code password programming.

Do you need contact details of the Nippon guy at Bangalore? Let me know.

Spike

^^ I don't think I've turn the vehicles key to Ignition ON and haven't heard the long beep of confirmation. It was not mentioned in the manual :(.. So that means the password is not yet changed. I'll try changing it again today. May be now itself. Thanks man, you've saved my day I feel.
Please do send me the Nippon guy's contact detail.

^^ Ok, that means the password is not changed yet. I hope you are clear with the password change procedure. You can call / PM me if you need any info.

Spike

PS- You have a PM.

Folks,
I cant agree more on non availablity of spares for earlier models.
My oil tank dip stick holder broke and after many attempts got one which is the closest one to what i had.With slight mods fitted it but found that the dip stick was not fitting snug.Had to cut the stick and make the min and max marks for oil levels.....cant imagine if bigger spares are needed.
tx

My hawk,has done 15K kms now,and surprisingly it has been niggle free all this whileclap:,apart from a squeaky passenger side door.
Now the 15K service is coming up,and Mahindra recommends oil change at 20K,last oil change was at 5K kms.
Should i go for a oil change now and keep intervals at like 10K kms?
I somehow cannot digest a 15-20K kms interval between oil changes using a non synthetic oil in our extreme conditions.

I agree. 15k+ kms oil change intervals seem a bit too much to me, specially in the bumper to bumper conditions that we encounter in our cities.

That's why I changed my oil when the odo reading was 15k kms, rather than 20k kms as given in the user manual. I plan to keep the oil change interval at 10k kms henceforth, regardless of the ASC saying that the intervals given in the user manual are sufficient.

Cheers,
Vikram

Further updates on the braking problem:

- The brake calipers were removed, and the rubber kit changed. The rubbers looked absolutely fatigued and definitely did not have any rubbery action left. Looks like the dead rubbers were preventing the brake piston from retracting after every braking action, causing the jam. Hopefully, the change will solve my problem

- the brake pads were totally worn out - in some 20,000 odd kms or so, must be because of the jamming that must have kept the brake pads in the disc longer than required. They have been changed.

- the rear brake shoes were totally worn out, especially on the left hand side. They are probably less than 40,000 odd kms old. Both the brake cylinders were OK, since I had changed the RHS cylinder last time I had changed the brake shoes.

- BUT, here is the shocker: the brake cylinder on the LHS was not the correct one! It was that for the crde Scorpio, which apparently has double the braking action than my non-crde Scorpio. This had been changed by my ASC some 1 year ago. What is the impact? The more powerful LHS brake cylinder was applying stronger braking action, resulting in wearing out the brake shoes in LHS. The brake shoes had completely worn out the brake drums - it was also completely uneven and wavy in one section! Maybe this was also causing the inefficient braking and jamming.

- It looks like it will be impossible to do the facing of the brake drum since it may cause it to become too thin, so I am going to change both the brake drums. And the brake shoes of course. Moreover, I am now trying to get the real brake cylinder (not in stock) to replace the wrong brake cylinder.

Now you also know how bad ASCs can cause so much of damage to Scorpios. Not only have the jokers not replaced the brake caliper rubbers for such a long time, but they have also put the wrong part.

Net result, the Scorpio is grounded for the next 24 hours awaiting parts.

So the w/cylinders of the pre-CRDe and CRDe Scorp are swappable? What differences are there between the two? And what if you decide to fit both w/cylinders of the newer type? You did mention that the newer ones have double the braking action.

And what about scoring/ridges on the caliper cylinder walls?

Well, the crde vs non-crde is what the mechanic told me, I have no sure way of identifying what is what. The cylinder fits OK, so if the wrong cylinder was used, looks like they are interchangeable.

Examining the caliper, there does not appear to be any unusual features. No oil leaks. The rubber were sealed but rubber was thin and not as "rubbery" as a new one.

No idea if the change of caliper solves the brake problems since the car is grounded now waiting for the rear cylinder/drum problem to be changed.

Did you change the complete calipers, or just the rubber kit?

@Spike: What difference in terms of construction and 'swappability' of the rear wheel cylinders between CRDe/non-CRDe/mHawk? How would it affect performance?

@SS da, Yes, there are differences.

@HVK can you measure Piston diameter inside the wheel cylinder (correct as well as in-correct one); also please post pics if possible.

Spike

Thanks, SS & Spike.
Will do so and revert tomorrow.

My mHawk is 16K Kms. now, I have decided (and given the experience of couple of friends who did it at 20K Kms) to keep the oil change deferred to the 20K mark since I am driving in relativly smooth conditions (wide congestion free roads of Navi Mumbai and there abouts :D.

Plus I want to maintain the status quo since the vehicle is running like dream specially after so many niggles in the first year of ownership.

There is one small anomaly that I am observing for the last one month with the Fuel Gauge, I fill up 31 odd Lts. after the first low fuel warning, and the fuel gauge almost touches the F mark. And over a period the gauge moves down as if properly calibrated to the next low fuel warning at the red mark. Any pointers on what could be wrong.

Even ours is driven on wide traffic free roads of a Cantonment.
but still i will get the oil changed at 15K service this saturday.

Another Query.
How to check if ABS is kicking in or not?
The brakes are toooooo sharp for my liking,and sometimes while sudden braking,i have heard a screech or two from the tyres.
Does the Light come on when ABS kicks in,or is it just a malfunction light for ABS ecu?

If the brake pedal judders (mimicking you pumping the brakes manually) when you stand on them, then your ABS is kicking in. The lights will not come on. The ABS should not allow the wheels to lock. If it does, then you have a problem.