[shibujp]

I have been hunting around for a simple design for an engine stand. Fact is. I thought of trying my hand at taking an engine apart and building it back. Toward this end I purchased an old M800 engine - well how can I say this - three years back.

Life took it's normal course and every few months I get this urge and go take a look at it and decide to start off - so now I figured I need an engine stand.

The designs on the net look complicated and expensive. And ideal design would be some daily item that we use that we can improvise.

Or some simple structure that I can get done by the local vendor. I don't want to take it apart on the foor as space is limited in my garage and I'd rather have it propped up on something while I the it apart.

So folks - please contribute your ideas.

Drive on,
Shibu.

[shibujp]

Here is a simple design that a mechanic friend recommended to me.



Drive on,
Shibu

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

In the last pic, you should have a crossbar at bottom or a bolt on cross bar - to prevent the legs from spreading open.

(any dirty minds getting ideas??? )

[julupani]

A couple of questions.

1. Is this more of a generic engine stand, ie for all kinds of engines within certain weight and size limits?? Or is it for a particular kind of engines??

2. Is this going to be used more as a temporary place to keep the engine, or a stand on which work on the engine will be performed??

The reason for the first question is, every engine is best supported at the points where the engine was designed to be mounted. But this can differ from engine to engine.

2nd question determines, whether you need to move the engine about on the stand. Because, it makes it easy to work on the engine, if you can rotate it around and place it at different angles to access different parts easily.

[ArizonaJim]

shibujp
I agree with BaCkSeAtDrIVeR.

Engines are very heavy and the last thing you want is for the stand to collapse sideways or lenghways.

You should add at least two diagnal braces and tie the lower areas of the legs together. This can be done either by welding some flat strips of steel in place or by bolting them to the legs.

Forgive my poor attempt to modify your nice drawing but the photo below gives a clue to what I am thinking of.

Also, consider making a flat plate that bolts to the engines tranmission flange duplicating the transmission but clearing the flywheel. This plate would be bolted to the open end of the framework on the right side of your drawing and would add strength to the stand.

[SirAlec]

There are many designs. Design is mainly based on the exact position of the mounts in the car. It can be universal with clamps with different holes and cuts or custom built for this engines only.

some useful links.

Building a Ferrari V-12 Engine Stand

[Sutripta]

Hi,
My 2 bits.

Even if the stand is made rigid, this design is unlikely to be stable. Base needs to be made broader, or attached to something substantial. Also it would be advantageous to hold the engine in a number of different positions. Think about working on the crank/ main bearings.

Not difficult, but a bit of thought needs to be put into it.

Regards
Sutripta

[shibujp]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

Originally Posted by julupani

A couple of questions.

1. Is this more of a generic engine stand, ie for all kinds of engines within certain weight and size limits?? Or is it for a particular kind of engines??

2. Is this going to be used more as a temporary place to keep the engine, or a stand on which work on the engine will be performed??

Since I have yet to undo a bolt yet on the engine - I'd consider it to be meant only for this engine. The stand is going to be used as a stand on which work on the engine is to be performed.

@BackseatDriver, ArizonaJim
Thanks, I'll look into the cross brace suggestion.

Originally Posted by ArizonaJim

Also, consider making a flat plate that bolts to the engines tranmission flange duplicating the transmission but clearing the flywheel. This plate would be bolted to the open end of the framework on the right side of your drawing and would add strength to the stand.

I did not quite understand what you meant.

Drive on,
Shibu

[dhawcash]

Hi,

if you plan to take the engine apart, there are two major ways into it- crack the head open to access the valve train, etc, and take out the sump to access the oil pan, oil pump, crankshaft, con-rods, etc.

The above suggested engine stand would work well, but you would not be able to remove the sump and access the parts which are accessible only from below the block. ( in that design the engine would actually rest on the sump bolts).

and the engine block (basically the chassis of the engine) being cast iron, is damn heavy. trying to turn the engine upside down, or sideways while on that stand would be tricky, and a slight mistake while handling may damage some part, or god forbid, crush a finger badly.

The Ferrari engine mount strategy (the one which enables rotating the engine upside down or sideways) is one of the best possible options. In fact i saw a similar bench at a skoda workshop, used to rebuild damaged engines. but fabricating such a peice would need expertise and would be a bit expensive ( The rotating link being the tough part- locking it in place, making the engine stable enough to work on it- It will need to be reliable).

I think you should do the following:
1- get the original front and rear engine mounts ( the third mount in the car is on the gearbox).

2. get a structure made out of tubing to support the weight of the engine via those mounts. make it high enough so you can work comfortably below and above the engine.

on these two mounts, the engine is almost balanced with the gearbox, and they support most of the engine weight. will rock a bit, so you can get a third leg bolted to the engine ( it has plenty of strong mounting points all around, as the block is also used on the Omni and mounted differently there)

I have worked on this engine when it was installed in a buggy in a similar manner, and was able to access every part without trouble.

here are pics of rear and front mounts respectively.{ you just need a structure to support these mounts off the ground at a comfortable height. the third mount has very less weight on it, and u can support that one with your little finger once these two are done. support that one as is convenient to you.} hope it helps.

[ATTACH][/ATTACH]

[Tejas Ingle]

Hi
I agree with the suggestions posted in this thread.
The engine must be mounted on its mounts and not supported on the oil sump as it will prevent you from removing the oil sump and will be difficult to remove the crank shaft.
The engine should be at a comfortable working height.
If possible there should be a mechanism to turn the engine around which makes the task much more easier.
The base of the stand must be broader than the engine.
There sould be an oil pan below the engine.
The stand must be equiped with wheels for ease of movement.
The mounts which you are making can be made ajustible to accomodate a variety of engines.
Putting in all these features will require some basic Engg and the parts will be available at any industrial area. It will also consume some time but will be permanent and perfect.
Attaching pics of a stand which show the stand, The engine turned upside down and the working height. I can click more detailed pics and give you further info about it if you need.

[dhawcash]

The base of the stand must be broader than the engine.
There sould be an oil pan below the engine.
The stand must be equiped with wheels for ease of movement.
The mounts which you are making can be made ajustible to accomodate a variety of engines.

+1 to that.

BTW, Which engine is in the pics? its a V-6, and as far as i can tell, a diesel (not sure as the pics don't show the area near the intake port clearly): is it a skoda ?

[Tejas Ingle]

Originally Posted by dhawcash

+1 to that.

BTW, Which engine is in the pics? its a V-6, and as far as i can tell, a diesel (not sure as the pics don't show the area near the intake port clearly): is it a skoda ?

Its a Mercedes-Benz 2.4l petrol .
Posting a few detailed pics of the stand. It will give you more idea.

[shibujp]

Originally Posted by dhawcash

Hi,

I think you should do the following:
1- get the original front and rear engine mounts ( the third mount in the car is on the gearbox).

2. get a structure made out of tubing to support the weight of the engine via those mounts. make it high enough so you can work comfortably below and above the engine.

@dhawcash - that post helped. Using the engine mounts as a starting point was a great suggestion.

Originally Posted by Tejas Ingle

The engine must be mounted on its mounts and not supported on the oil sump as it will prevent you from removing the oil sump and will be difficult to remove the crank shaft.
The engine should be at a comfortable working height.
If possible there should be a mechanism to turn the engine around which makes the task much more easier.
The base of the stand must be broader than the engine.
There sould be an oil pan below the engine.
The stand must be equiped with wheels for ease of movement.
The mounts which you are making can be made ajustible to accomodate a variety of engines.

This reads like a very practical set of design objectives. It's only the last one which I perhaps don't think i might look into now - that is to make the mounts adjustable.

Thanks for those two very informative posts guys. It made me re look at my original idea and plan modifications.

Drive on,
shibujp

[Tejas Ingle]

Originally Posted by shibujp

@dhawcash - that post helped. Using the engine mounts as a starting point was a great suggestion.



This reads like a very practical set of design objectives. It's only the last one which I perhaps don't think i might look into now - that is to make the mounts adjustable.

Thanks for those two very informative posts guys. It made me re look at my original idea and plan modifications.

Drive on,
shibujp

Just need to point out one important aspect for the turning mechanism. The engine must rotate when you want it to. It shouldn't rotate due to its own weight. That is the mechanism should be non-reversible.
Do keep us posted with the developments.
All the best.