Team-BHP (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)

-   Technical Stuff (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/)

-   -   What to do if your Engine Overheats on the road (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/131650-what-do-if-your-engine-overheats-road-16.html)

Agree totally - provided it is confirmed to be a case of overheating.
Consider this:
After the initial few hiccups and resolutions (however expensive or unnecessary), the proof of the overheating problem lies in the observed temperature that the engine runs to. Despite Jeroen's suggestion to measure that temperature, we have not yet been provided any subsequent data to support the theory of overheating.
The only hard evidence about the temperature is the following:
Unless we are drawn to a conclusion that the thermal sensors, or the wires connected to them or even the temperature gauge is faulty (no evidence for any of these possibilities) , we should believe what's displayed on the dash.
The conclusion of the owner that the overheating is apparent because it does not crank after a few minutes drive, could be misplaced.

My suspicion is that the problem (of not cranking after a few minutes drive) lies elsewhere.

Hey Joy ,

The reason why I am sure the car is overheating are :-

1. When I was facing the problem with the car initially the car was showing the same symptoms and if I open the radiator after driving for couple of kms the water level in the radiator itself would be low. It would take 250 to 750 ml of water in depending on how much I have driven.

2. My guess is the first mech who worked on the car did some play around with the gauge because of which it ia not showing overheating it would reach the optimum temp mark and would just stay there. This was confirmed by SA at MASS itself that the car was indead overheating. But this was before head change and the problem was resolved after that and has cropoed up gain but this time I think it is because of some different reason.

3. The thermostat was removed from the car few months ago. It is lying inside the glovebox. So during all these days the temp gauge used to take 6-8 kms of drive to reach the optimum temp mark but for last few days ( since when I am facing the problem ) the temp gauge is reacing the optimum mark in just a drive of 1.5 kms without the thermostat. Which itself gives you indications.

4. Yesterday morning I at 4 am took the car out for a highway drive of about 100 kms. I was driving at 80 kmph continuesly. Because it's little cold in the morning here in delhi and there was no traffic and there is no thermostat in the car the car was not even reaching the optimum temp mark. It was at around 1/4th position for most of the time. It was reaching half mark only when I was breaking and the car was stationary and I did not face any problem carnking the car evwn after a drive of 100 kms. But in the afternoon I drove on the same highway for approx 50 kms and after reaching home it was again giving me the problem.

I certainly don't think it's a vapour lock situation because as far as I have read it occurs with carbs mine is an MPFI one.

Hey Aroy,

The car has been driven on highways only for 90% of the time. I always prefer to stick to a speed limit of 80 kmph. So I am afraid what you are suggesting would help.


nIk

Is the coolant still disappearing from your radiator? Can you trace where it's going, or not?

Are you using coolant or plain water?

Vapor lock's a physical phenomenon. It can happen to an MPFI engine as well. It's just one of the things you may want to consider.

Just on a side note:
1) By the looks of it - it seems even basic metering is suspect. Why don't you get the temperature measured separately to confirm/rule out overheating?
2) Thermostat should be put back in the car - it controls the operation of the cooling fan.

No it is not disappearing now. It used to before we changed the head. The car was running fine after we changed the head of the car. But the symptoms are almost same. Let me source an external temp gauge and check the temp readings. Not sure thkugh where can I get the ext temp gauge from.


I know thermostat should be out back. I was waiting for the next service for getting it back in the car.

nIk

Hi All,

I would like to share my recent experience on Engine Overheating in my 2011 SX4. We were 4 people on board with a fully loaded boot and were doing good speeds (with ACC on) between Tumkur and Chitradurga when the problem occurred. The Cooling went down and I rolled down the windows and switched off the ACC.

After about a kilometer of driving i glanced at the Instrument Panel and saw that the needle in the Temp Gauge was near the border of Red line. I pulled over, popped open the hood and saw that the engine was indeed hot. This was the first time such a issue had occurred. Soon called up fellow-BHPian @paragsachania and explained the issue. As per the steps he conveyed:

1. Let the engine cool for an hour.
2. Observed that the Coolant reservoir level was almost to the brim.
3. Once the Radiator cap was cooled tried to open the cap but in vain. It was stuck like some kind of vaccumm holding it down.
4. Radiator Fan was not rotating and for about 1/2 an hour we struggled to check if the Fuse was gone. Later we found that that was not the issue.
5. We later identified that the Thermostat is not working at high speeds.

Meanwhile called up MOS and they came about 1.5 hours later. They confirmed that the Radiator was fine and topped up the coolant and did a test run. All was well for about 20 kilometers of Test run.

We resumed the journey and after having traveled merely 10 kms the needle in the gauge again rose toward the "H" and came down and immediately we pulled over and called the MOS again.

They returned and suggested that we tow the Vehicle to Tumkur for further checks (It was 8:30 PM when we decided to head back to Tumkur). Alternate arrangements were made for the rest of the members to travel and we returned half way to Tumkur. This time we travelled about 30 kms and there was no issue.

The Service guy suggested to maintain speeds of 80 - 100 kmph and drive on. Then on I drove at 80 - 90 kmph speeds and the there were no issues.

The problem reappeared on another day when the speeds were above 120 kmph (We were midway between Hungund and Bijapur on NH13 when it happend). This time we troubleshot the same way like we did earlier and resumed the journey.

I decided to have the car checked upon return to Bangalore and during the return journey kept the speeds at 80-90 kmph and there was no issue of Overheating through the 360 kms journey home.

There seems to be a issue with the Thermostat (as per the service guy) and will have it checked this weekend at Surakshaa Car Care.

The whole experience was a learning one.

Developed an overheating problem in my CNG esteem 2007 yesterday.
kms run: 85 K

I was going back home from work and within a drive of approx 5-6 kms, I noticed the temperature needle shooting up. It was quite quick and at that rate, within a minute, it would have touched the "H" mark.

I immediately switched to Petrol and stopped without turning off the engine. It eased down to a bit above normal (40% of the C-H meter).
Tried driving it , it rose again but slowly.
After some insane coasting and stopping after every few 100 mtrs , without letting the temp gauge get above 60-70%, I drove back to a garage (a bosch one).
Somehow, coasting eased the temp from time to time.

Got the radiator checked and the guy checked the pipes and everything and concluded that the coolant wasnt flowing at all.

He instantly suggested a radiator change. Wasnt sure about spending 3K + labour to get it changed. He suggested flushing.

A radiator flushing chemical was used for some 10-15 mins with high rpm, followed by circulation of pressurised water and, finally coolant change.

Car is running perfectly fine. No fluctuation of temp needle at all. However, in the morning, it took some time to even get off the minimum 'c' mark.

So tell me, Do i need to worry and plan a radiator change, or has the flushing agent done it's work?
What is the general recommendation?

Also, he poured in just the coolant, with no water. But , it was a very thin , blue colored one. Not dense like the normal ones. I guess it's the premixed one?

I hope that this is the right thread to post my concern in.

I have been told that my City's radiator fan motor is not working. Honda does not replace the motor, they only change it and its currently not in stock. A new motor costs a whopping 12k and 600 for labour.

What are the options that I have?

I would always want to make sure that it is indeed the fan motor that is broken. So I would check the electrical circuit for continuity, fuses, and the thermostat switch. The easiest way to check is to find the electrical connector on the fan, disconnect it and apply 12v directly onto it. If it turns its not the fan, if it doesn't it is the fan motor that needs replacing.

I cant really advise on where to get good parts in India, but in Europe I would be able to get replacement new parts from various part shops and they would tend to be cheaper then the dealers. Or, i would get it second hand, dirt cheap from a junk yard. Ive seen plenty of shops in Delhi that appear to be selling just any second hand car parts under the sun and then some.

Not everybody is comfortable fitting second hand parts to their cars, but that is more a personal choice.
Jeroen

That's a good advice Jeroen. But coming to Indian context, the labor is cheap and there are ample of motor repairing guys.

I am a little unsure if the radiator motor is a sealed type or something that can be opened and mended. If latter, then essentially it is just like any other 12v motor used in umpteen number of appliances and can be easily re-winded(copper coil part) or suitably repaired at any friendly neighbor electrician at less than 5% of the cost of Honda's part quotation. Now, if only the owner can take the plunge of a little DIY in removing the radiator motor(with frame). Replaced my Maruti Suzuki Zen's radiator fan once all by myself(replaced because the part was cheap at nearby Maruti Authorised Parts supplier and older fan's blades were a little brittle after 10 yrs of usage).

Regards

I think the delay in reaching the minimum 'c' mark can be attributed to the changing weather(though slowly, but winters are finally setting in!). Because, radiator/fan functionality only comes into play once the car reaches(and starts exceeding) the optimal operational temperatures.

Don't go by the coolant's thickness, though glycerol(or was it glycol?) is a constituent, but newer coolants in all the fancy colors(green, blue, red, you name it they have it!) cannot be comprehended. Best to read the label and follow the instructions to the T.

Regards

Checked this myself after getting home from the HASS. Motor was indeed not working even after the AC was switched on. Surprisingly the red temperature indicator on the dash was also not lighting up during running (with AC on) in spite of the motor not working.

Enquired at a few shops. People are selling the motor for about 2.5 to 3K and Rs. 200 is the labour to fix it. Almost everybody mentioned that its not repairable but I wondered why!

Next, decided to get my hands dirty and a bit and cleaned the motor+fan assembly and also gave the assembly a few few light jerks with a screw driver.
Presto! Now I have a working motor clap:

Will monitor for a few days and see if the motor dies again (no long drives in between).

All in all its been a learning experience!

So it was a stuck rotor. :)
Is the motor and fan assembly sealed in a City?
As Jeroen mentioned, there may be a parts bazaar - particularly near breakers yards in Mumbai , where you may be able to source this for far less. Of course be sure to test it out before you put down the money.

Thankfully there was no need to change anything. I monitored the fan for a few days and once I got the comfort that all was well, I decided to take her out for a 1500 KM drive. I'm back from the drive now and everything went butter smooth. :)

Hi,

My experience of engine overheat happened few years back with my fiat Palio 1.2. Driving back from nainital in the dead of night with family, the radiator fan stopped working. I realized only when I incidently saw the temperature gauge, which had shot up to H. I pulled over at moradabad and I was bluntly told that no one would touch this vehicle as no one would have expertise. My family friend happened to be an IPS officer and he got us the police station assistance. The SHO organized a tow truck all the way to Delhi and we shut off the engine for a major part of next 150 kilometers and hoped the car would be repaired fine in Delhi.It was not to be. The mechanic took a look next day and brought out that engine block has damaged. Do not know how. But a quick fix and got that running and sold it in next couple of days as that kind of diagnosis did not give any confidence to my cross country driving habits.

Himanshu

Hello People, I have a rather odd predicament. My 2009 Swift VDi which has run about 36k, shows erratic temperature and fuel levels. I have been alarmed a few times and have followed the many steps that had been advised in our forum. But the problem does not arise out of genuine heating issue. Unfortunately for me, when I had given the car for service, this error did not happen and the workshop people said they have looked into it. But nope, the problem persists. Should I just change the gauges or is there a simpler job to correct this error? God forbid, I might just end up in the soup if in case my engine does really heat up:uncontrol. Kindly advise.

Regards
Champion