[scorpian]

Originally Posted by wildsdi5530

Can anyone suggest what to do?

Trust me using the ac cleaner foam would not have affected your ac cooling in anyway, I would agree with Honda on this. You can buy yourself cans of ac cleaner and dump them through the vents. They do have a cleaning effect and you may save yourself from opening the dashboard etc.
If it's very severely clogged then I am afraid you have to clean it by removing it from the car. But do try with foam can, I would buy two of them and repeat the process for a better effect.

[wildsdi5530]

I'm not saying AC cleaner foam had anything to do with it. My contention is why it was done without my approval. Also if AC gas is low, that could have been filled instead of the cleaning.
BTW I regularly run the AC at full heat for about 20 mins to keep the ducts clean.

[HimuraKenshin]

Bumping up an old thread. I have a 2003 HM ambassador with a 1.8L petrol MPFI engine.
It has an AC with a superking blower, and sanden compressor.
In stop and go traffic, the temperature of the car rises significantly. I've read that many ambys, due to this reason had the condenser moved to under the car. Does anyone have any knowledge or insight regarding this?
Radiator has already been cleaned ans serviced.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by HimuraKenshin

Does anyone have any knowledge or insight regarding this?

For how long have you observed the temperature rising in Stop and Go situations? Is this a recent development?

I have never seen anyone relocate the condenser coil to another location for HM's Ambassador. This was the case for the Maruti Omni but that was by design, for it to be relocated right behind the front left wheel.

I assume you have an electric auxiliary fan sitting ahead of the condenser. Check if this is spinning at the correct rpm. The mechanical engine driven radiator fan should work but I assume air flow is not sufficient in Stop and Go conditions causing a gradual rise in temperature. As long as it is not going border line, you have nothing to worry about.

Have you checked coolant levels and consumption? If consumption is excessive, that suggests a leak or water making its way into the engine block leading to coolant being burnt.

[Reinhard]

Originally Posted by HimuraKenshin

Bumping up an old thread. I have a 2003 HM ambassador with a 1.8L petrol MPFI engine.
It has an AC with a superking blower, and sanden compressor.
In stop and go traffic, the temperature of the car rises significantly. I've read that many ambys, due to this reason had the condenser moved to under the car. Does anyone have any knowledge or insight regarding this?
Radiator has already been cleaned ans serviced.

I am not sure about the solution you mentioned about the condenser placement in the Ambassador, so I'll not be able to mention about that. But this issue of cooling becoming negligible on idling is fairly common in multiple cars, especially aged.

1. The compressor's RPM at idle engine RPM is not enough to compress air enough to cool it in sufficient volume. Check that the compressor needs lubrication.
2. The belt that transfers the rotation from engine to the compressor may have hardened and is losing some energy in transfer. Especially noticeable at idle.
3. Cooling Gas recharge is required.
4. Any chance of forced cooling fan for the condenser? If yes, that's what I'd go for. Placing the condenser under the car would really make it more susceptible for other damage on our roads IMO.

[kashyapz8055]

This issue is regarding my Baleno Zeta for which the AC refrigerant was filled before 20 days.

When the AC is turned ON, irrespective of the blower speed, there is a whistling sound near the blower located below dashboard.
The sound goes gradually as the engine is revv'd.

BUT, if the engine is OFF/compressor is disengaged, the blower runs fine without any sound irrespective of the speed.

What could be the issue ?

[Nanolover]

Feel it is normal.

It is the sound of liquid refrigerant getting converted to gas in the expansion valve. It is a hissing sound and occours whenever the compressor kicks in initially so that the pipes are filled with gaseous refrigerant through which recirculated /fresh blower air passes and cold air flows out through your vents.

It should only be there when u start the AC initially and the compressor is on( pressuring the system),or whenever the AC compressor kicks in. You will especially hear it more at lower fan speeds.

[sukarsan]

Hi all,

This is perhaps the first time I am starting a new thread on teambhp.
Any query i have had in the past had a thread on the same and I never had to come this far.

So anyway, I have been in Delhi and since I am next to a large nala AC gas leakage is a common issue.
AC in the house has to be refilled every year but thats a different topic. as expected , 1 year after moving in my car AC has leaked out.
I go to get the AC replaced and this was the experience in both the AC service stations.

Step1 : AC guy confirms that the gas has leaked.
Step2: he quotes a surprisingly low amount and says he has to check the system for leaks
Step3: gets a motor and applies a pressure of 350 psi(25bar) - ambient air, not the refrigerant.
step4: checks in the cabin and diagnoses the issue to be from the cooling coil.
step5: quotes about 5-6 k for part, labour etc.

All is well , but for the pressure build up part.
I think 25 bars of pressure is insanely high.
low pressure circuits of fuel are at around 5 bars and the AC in my home is filled to 65psi(5 bar).
for gods sake , tyre pressure is around 20-30 psi. Anyone with further insights.


if someone can get a trusted AC mechanic can you please clarify one thing--
what is the typical pressure in a AC circuit for leak check with ambient air?
I suppose all service guys use psi as this is the default unit on the pressure guage they use.

[akhil_007]

This is regarding the issue(or my illusion) in my Fluidic Verna Diesel which is 7 years old.

I always feel the car AC does not cool as per the temperature set. Example: 22 Degree Celsius in my friends Baleno chills in no time whereas 18 Degree Celsius in my Verna is cool/comfortable. Lowest Temperature(15 Deg Celsius) doesn't chill me to the bone.

Did the following checks:
1. Got the service done and asked SA to inspect Condenser. He said its slightly bent on one-side but no damage and AC condition is good.
2. Went to nearby AC shop and got gas recharged.
3. Added a charcoal based Cabin filter. Air flow took at hit so threw it away. Using a paper filter now
4. Went for a second opinion to another AC shop(D.R. AC service). He checked and told me AC is fine. I asked him why doesn't 15 deg C chill me to the bone. He said different car have different AC capacities and this is normal for Verna.

Another friend of mine who has i20 mentioned that Hyundai's AC's are not as strong as Maruti's and it doesn't CHILL the cabin.

I managed to clean condenser fins via Bumper using a household sprayer(Pril 2 drops in a liter+ multiple plain water rinse) as much as possible. AC cooling seems to have marginally improved (or, is it just placebo!!).

So, the question in my mind:
1. Is my AC working as normally as any other Verna
2. Is it true that Verna AC doesn't chill you in the lowest setting? Even 21C seems meh!
3. Is there anything else that needs to be checked.

PS: Even Etios AC chills me in no-time during Peak summer.

Thanks in Advance

[Nalin1]

Hello Guys,

My Terrano's AC suddenly stopped cooling yesterday with a whistling noise ( like a tap running without water).

Aditya Car AC in Koramangala diagnosed as a faulty evoparator coil due to which the gas has leaked and is now empty.
Replacement of the coil and gas refilling is around Rs 12,000. And it takes around 4 to 5 hours as the dashboard needs to be removed.

Surya Nissan's diagnosis seems to be the same at around same cost.

Initially I assumed only the gas needs to be filled as it is a 7 year old car.

Are they making sense? Will a faulty evoparator coil lead to gas leakage? I thought this should lead to less cooling only.

[Rahul Bhalgat]

Originally Posted by Nalin1

Hello Guys,

My Terrano's AC suddenly stopped cooling yesterday with a whistling noise ( like a tap running without water).

Aditya Car AC in Koramangala diagnosed as a faulty evoparator coil due to which the gas has leaked and is now empty.

Are they making sense? Will a faulty evoparator coil lead to gas leakage? I thought this should lead to less cooling only.

Yes, possible. If there is a leak in the evaporator coil, the refrigerant (which flows through the coil) will leak out.

Before going ahead, make sure that the leak isn't somewhere else, especially in some pipe joint. Also, see the leaking puncture yourself and ask them if it can be repaired. A puncture in the middle of the coil will render it useless. But if it is on the pipe entry to the coil, ask if it can be repaired by brazing.

[nish6474]

Originally Posted by akhil_007

This is regarding the issue(or my illusion) in my Fluidic Verna Diesel which is 7 years old.

I always feel the car AC does not cool as per the temperature set. Example: 22 Degree Celsius in my friends Baleno chills in no time whereas 18 Degree Celsius in my Verna is cool/comfortable. Lowest Temperature(15 Deg Celsius) doesn't chill me to the bone.

Did the following checks:
1. Got the service done and asked SA to inspect Condenser. He said its slightly bent on one-side but no damage and AC condition is good.
2. Went to nearby AC shop and got gas recharged.
3. Added a charcoal based Cabin filter. Air flow took at hit so threw it away. Using a paper filter now
4. Went for a second opinion to another AC shop(D.R. AC service). He checked and told me AC is fine. I asked him why doesn't 15 deg C chill me to the bone. He said different car have different AC capacities and this is normal for Verna.

Another friend of mine who has i20 mentioned that Hyundai's AC's are not as strong as Maruti's and it doesn't CHILL the cabin.

I managed to clean condenser fins via Bumper using a household sprayer(Pril 2 drops in a liter+ multiple plain water rinse) as much as possible. AC cooling seems to have marginally improved (or, is it just placebo!!).

So, the question in my mind:
1. Is my AC working as normally as any other Verna
2. Is it true that Verna AC doesn't chill you in the lowest setting? Even 21C seems meh!
3. Is there anything else that needs to be checked.

PS: Even Etios AC chills me in no-time during Peak summer.

Thanks in Advance

Hey Akhil,
You need a Level IV AC service done which involves complete removal of dashboard to inspect the evaporator! 7 years of use might have accumulated a lot of gunk on the fins which is obstructing the cooling..
I have a 2008 Verna for which I got the level IV service done in Dec' 19 and I can surely say that there is a huge difference in the cooling level once the evaporator is cleaned/replaced!

[letsgo2016]

Hey guys, I have this perennial problem since last 2 years on my 5 year old Alto 800 Vxi.

It is with regards to Car Air Conditioning. At the beginning of this issue, the CAR AC Compressor wouldn't start and even when the AC is switched on the blower just blows air. After I drive around for 10-15 mins (Like around 8-10kms in city traffic) the AC compressor finally kicks in and Cooling starts to come.

This 10-15 mins then increased to 20-30 mins and now it seems that the compressor would take forever to kick in and having the AC on is pointless.

I have checked with this issue with MASS they say Alto 800 being an underpowered vehicle this issue is persistent on all cars and AC compressor generally kicks in in 5-10 mins on these cars and my case it might be 10-15 mins.

I have checked with outside AC mechanics and AC GAS / Pressure everything was as per norm. Just the compressor wouldn't kick in. After some checks, the mechanic replaced the 10A Fuse on the engine bay and voila the compressor just kicked in this time. IT was a case of blown 10Amp Fuse.

Now the spare fuse which was available in the Fuse box was utilized and AC compressor was kicking in by like 5 mins as soon as I start the car on my daily drives. However this solution was short-lived and now the Compressor again takes forever to kick in and I checked the 10amp Fuse which is still intact. I also googled to find that sometime we may need to change the AC Compressor Relay in the fuse box but I wonder if there is any other Root Cause for this behavior.

P.S. All PMS Schedules are done on Time. AC serviced twice in the last 2 years and no major concerns except for regular Gas leakage which was addressed. This issue was not present during my initial 3 years of my ownership of this car. 95% of the time the Car is driven by me most of the times.

Any help / experience would be valuable. Thank you !

[arya809]

I have a Ford Fiesta 1.6S, maintained perfectly with no accidents, total ODO reading only 67000 kms. Since purchase, AC was working perfectly but it had developed refrigerant (slow) leak since 2017 and I got it refilled once a year.

In 2019, I finally decided to get it rectified.

So I went to Ford service center (ASC) and they bluntly told me to replace all the AC parts except tubes/hoses! I argued that where's the logic in that, they said that it's Ford's policy to change all parts whenever there's a leak. I declined, and told them to replace the evaporator (they call it cooling coil) and heating coil only, both showed clear signs of leakage.

That took care of the leak. After that, I tested the air temperature by placing temp sensor inside air vents, it was around 9-10 degree Celsius, which was quite acceptable. But I knew it was still not cold enough, not as good as before.

Then I decided to take it to a local (so called expert) car AC repair shop. He performed various tests and finally found that the thermostat sensor (temp sensor?) which is clipped to the evaporator coil is faulty. He basically shorted the sensor's wiring while the engine and ac was on (without opening dashboard and vents). By doing that, the air vent temperature reached 2 degree celsius and still dropping! That too in peak summer season, car parked in full sunlight and idling at a place.


That means the AC system was working flawlessly and it was only limited by faulty signals from the temperature sensor. I bought a new sensor from Ford service center, he replaced that, he obviously needed to open the whole dashboard. Once he packed up the dashboard, I found that the air is now even warmer than before. Now the air vent temperature STAYS ABOVE 14 DEG CELSIUS!

14 sounds cool enough, but it's insufficient to cool down the car's interior in light summer in late March, forget peak summer.

He raised his hands and told me that he can't diagnose the issue anymore. Did he mess up big time?

I suspect (wild guess) that he must have fitted the dashboard improperly and the cold air must be mixing with the hot air from the heating coil. Or maybe the cabin's internal air is not re-circulated.

NOTE: If I remove the side panel from the passenger side, under the dashboard, I can see that the heating coil is not packed, air is escaping from the gaps between heating coil and dashboard. Also, air is coming OUT from all 4 of the vents in the floor console, near the feet. If I'm not wrong, in a factory fitted car, 2 vents are for air intake and 2 for air exhaust.

I decided to wait till summer season as the AC was chilling exceptionally during winter. Then last year, whole summer was spent in lockdown. Finally, it pre-summer here in Rajasthan and I have decided to get it sorted fully. I need the air vent temperature to reach 5-6 degrees just like in a new car.

I don't wanna take it to Ford ASC, they will again tell me to change all parts without diagnosing the exact issue.

[arya809]

I am no expert, in fact I just posted a new thread regarding problems in my car AC.

But I can provide few guesses.

1. Replacing fuse was only temporary because of a short or loose connection in the wiring. (Maybe) because of that, the car's ECU detects that there is not enough voltage/amperage to start the compressor. Get the electrical connections checked, AC repair shops don't deal with electrical problems, take it to a electrical and starter repair shop.

2. If all electrical connections are intact then it may be a case of failing compressor clutch. The clutch gets electrical signals to engage/disengage. It may be stuck or jammed, on its way to demise.

Watch this video for info on compressor clutch:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k8IQnkqvXIQ

Of course, you can browse more about "car compressor clutch" to gain full understanding.