[lurker]

As topic indicates, I am pondering over to replace the engine oil drain plug with an oil drain valve like what is shown here.





This should make draining engine oil pretty painless for most, especially if oil filter is placed above like in most MJD engines and make it easier to drain and refill regularly. There are a number of options in market with different designs like fumoto, ezoildrain, stahlbus etc. If members have any more information on this topic, please do share here.

[deetjohn]

No first hand experience with this. But that valve looks to be sticking out a bit.

So, won't this be more susceptible to damage from under body hits and thus oil leak if a car is not equipped with a proper engine guard?

[lurker]

I know the mjd drain plug is slightly recessed and inside a bracket. As per users, those using these drain valves on off-road 4x4 types without skid plates may have a chance of damaging the valve. There are different configurations for this valve, some with nozzle may protrude a bit but the first one is a plain version without protruding much. As you know different drain plugs are placed differently, some are pointed downwards from floor and some others are slightly recessed. Moreover I need to use one to give first hand info.

[Mr.Boss]

One drawback I see is the conventional drain plugs have magnets on their end to hold the metallic contaminates, preventing them from being circulated within the system. I doubt if the drain valves have similar construction.

Other advantage I see on the conventional drain plug is the larger opening which allows quicker drain and higher possibility to drain the contamination in oil pan.

[landcruiser123]

If your valve gets stuck with oil, mud and dust- Good Luck opening that.

Trust me, I've struggled with jammed valves during my FSAE days.

[Sankar]

I replaced the oil drain bolt of my ex Octy vRS with the Fumoto oil drain valve. Oil change is easier to do even at a garage. The valve is robust in its action and the spring is also pretty stiff to prevent accidental opening but I would suggest getting the plastic lock thingy that is availabke for this valve; just to prevent any chance of unintentional opening.

PS: If the engine has an aluminum sump like the Octavia RS and don't trust mechs not to strip the thread eventually do it. For steel steel sumps not needed and they are not that expensive either. Also beneficial for people doing the frequent "in-between" oil changes.

[dhanushs]

IMO, the usual oil change interval doesnt warranty for a valve like this. Maybe if you are running an experiment on the engine and need to frequently drain the oil.

Anyhow you are working to remove the filter, so why not use a spanner and remove the bolt? That's not a pain.

Sorry, but, i dont see a huge advantage for normal, road use cars.

[lurker]

Originally Posted by dhanushs

Anyhow you are working to remove the filter, so why not use a spanner and remove the bolt? That's not a pain.
.

It is definitely not a pain (accessing the drain plug) in SUV with high ground clearance types like Safari, Thar, Gypsy, Versa/Eeco etc.

But try accessing drain bolt without a lift on low profile cars like Civic, City, BMW, Punto/Linea then you will need jack stands, 2 jacks minimum etc or else it is going to be a pain. I even needed to remove right side front tyre to make crawl space to loosen the plug. For those owning these low profile cars and clocking high mileage can easily change their oil with such a tool.

In MJD, the oil filter is accessible from hood, no need to crawl underneath.

[a4anurag]

Good idea but I am worried on how robust these valve are and should sustain the forces plus they must not be popping out too much else it would get hit destroying the engine without the owner knowing 'in-time'.

Originally Posted by lurker

In MJD, the oil filter is accessible from hood, no need to crawl underneath.

Saar, one exception is there. It is the 1.6L MJD. It's oil filter is at a very awkward position and angle too.

Car needs to be lifted, right side tyre to be removed, plastic cladding in the wheel arch too needs removal to gain access 'properly'.