[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by bijuiser

I check with another TASC the price of a new alternator is indeed INR 55,370/-. Any idea how much other manufacturers like Mahindra charge?

Boodmo lists the part at 55K, OEM for Aria \ Hexa \ Harrier (V1). However boodmo also lists individual serviceable parts of this Bosch alternator and its inexpensive. I suggest you remove the alternator and take it to the nearest area in your city where they sell automotive spares, being in Maharashtra the prices should be lesser. Purchase an aftermarket alternator that is compatible (less than half the price) or overhaul the alternator with parts, much cheaper.

As far as I can see M&M uses a smaller alternator, prices are a lot cheaper of course.

[bijuiser]

Originally Posted by bijuiser

The Alternator Pulley of my Tata Aria broke yesterday. I went to TAASC (Rudra Pune). I was advised to get the alternator replaced. The cost, for parts only, quoted are as follows:
Alternator Assembly: INR 55,370/-
Belt: INR 700/-
Tensioner: INR 1715/-

My car is with a FNM who has removed the alternator and sent to third-party to check if it's is repairable.

Meanwhile need opinion on the price of the new alternator assembly, which I believe is too high.

My FNM got the alternator repaired for INR 6000/-, with labour and two replacement belts the total damages were INR 10200/-

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by bijuiser

My FNM got the alternator repaired for INR 6000/-, with labour and two replacement belts the total damages were INR 10200/-

Hi, happy to note it worked out this way. I posted earlier on this thread so to reiterate, please remember that nearly every alternator part can be replaced.

You almost never have to replace the entire assembly. The only time I can think of is the alternator housing is cracked and innards are physically damaged. Even in those extreme cases you may get separate parts but the cost of replacing in this manner may be higher than the cost of a new unit. And then there are used alternators available from scrapped & accident cases. So, rule of the thumb- you always look at repair first, not replace.

[Indian2003]

Originally Posted by R2D2

Hi, happy to note it worked out this way. I posted earlier on this thread so to reiterate, please remember that nearly every alternator part can be replaced.

Normally only the brush assembly only needs to be replaced. I used to carry a spare with me always and one day noticed my car giving only 13,6V down from the normal 14,4V.

One of the brushes had only about 3 mm left and the other was at 5 mm. After replacing, it went up to 14.4V again. Had I bought a replacement alternator, it would have cost me about 20 times the cost of the brush assembly.

The commutator was starting to wear and when the brushes wear out again, I will have to replace the commutator or the rotor and brushes or get a replacement alternator.

It is just not worthwhile replacing the stator or the rotor in an alternator as these as parts costs almost as much as a new alternator.

I once enquired for the price of a new diode pack in a Nippon Denso alternator and it cost as much as the alternator so I replaced only 1 diode in the pack.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by Indian2003

Normally only the brush assembly only needs to be replaced. I used to carry a spare with me always and one day noticed my car giving only 13,6V down from the normal 14,4V.
One of the brushes had only about 3 mm left and the other was at 5 mm. After replacing, it went up to 14.4V again. Had I bought a replacement alternator, it would have cost me about 20 times the cost of the brush assembly. The commutator was starting to wear and when the brushes wear out again, I will have to replace the commutator or the rotor and brushes or get a replacement alternator.
It is just not worthwhile replacing the stator or the rotor in an alternator as these as parts costs almost as much as a new alternator. I once enquired for the price of a new diode pack in a Nippon Denso alternator and it cost as much as the alternator so I replaced only 1 diode in the pack.

I am not sure what Tata is trying now by ripping their customers off referring to the OP here. Maybe taking a leaf out of Toyota's books. Brushes normally last for several 10s of thousands of kms. That said, take the cheapest route to set your alt. in operational order. Alternator replacements are only done when the current unit is scrap and the price of individual components to be replaced in order to restore it to operational condition exceeds that of a new alt. assembly.

The advantage of a new one is you get a warranty, normally 1-2 years & possibly longer. If you have to buy a new one try and get it from the aftermarket. Remember TML buys parts from manufacturers making in India to reduce input costs. Most commonly used ones are Bosch, Denso (Toyota owned) and possibly Mitsubishi (imported) which is favoured by Honda. The 1st 2 brands should be available in the aftermarket as they're made in India.

PS - I just saw your location a town in Scandinavia. So the TML bit doesn't apply to you. Sorry didn't read that location bit before I replied. Anyway, I hope the other members Tata owners or otherwise will find it helpful.

[polestar2016]

Today in my SX4, while filling up my completely flat tire by a portable inflator running of 12V cigarette socket my battery died. During the air filling up (approx 10 mins) I had kept the engine running. Afterwards on my way to the tire repair shop I think first the battery check light came on and then my power steering died along with check steering light. Made it to the local repair shop and he said the alternator was dead due to which the battery had also died and advised that the stator needs rewinding and will cost between 2-3k.


Request the experts on this forum to please advice.

Is the diagnosis correct and should I get it done from MGP authorized workshop?

[Mortis]

Originally Posted by polestar2016

Today in my SX4, while filling up my completely flat tire by a portable inflator running of 12V cigarette socket my battery died. During the air filling up (approx 10 mins) I had kept the engine running. Afterwards on my way to the tire repair shop I think first the battery check light came on and then my power steering died along with check steering light. Made it to the local repair shop and he said the alternator was dead due to which the battery had also died and advised that the stator needs rewinding and will cost between 2-3k.


Request the experts on this forum to please advice.

Is the diagnosis correct and should I get it done from MGP authorized workshop?

The scenario is believable. Can't say about the amount quoted for repair but there's no harm in getting the car looked at by Maruti for some other failure like a burnt wire or something. This would anyways incur extra expenditure in getting the car towed to the Maruti A.S.S. and then if they recommend full alternator replacement then again getting the car towed to the other shop again to do the minor repair.

[Retrogrease]

I just drove back from a 1,200 km trip to Ooty from Trivandrum. After parking the car at home, I was sitting inside the car, idling the engine for the good of the turbocharger and I noticed that the interior lights were flickering - not to an extend of switching off an back on but noticeable flickering.

I turned my headlights on, and the same and same goes for the tail lights and the number plate illuminators. I started diagnosing all the possible things that can go wrong with the igen i20 CRDi that I share a 100,000 km relationship with.

I turned the engine off after the few minutes idle and noticed that the lights stopped their flickers. And my prognosis is that we have a faulty alternator. I then checked out my tachometer and did not notice any variations. However, my dashboard has a squeaky end and when idling produces a rattle that has stayed on for years even after a complete overhaul to replace the cooling coil seated behind the stereo. The rattle matches the frequency of the flickering lights. So there definitely is an rpm variation - so small that the needle does not fluctuate. Any one at team - bhp ever faced an issue like this in the past?


I will take the car to the my most trusted 3rd party workshop in 2 days before the ASS so that I won't get scammed. I will keep the posts coming on my findings after the workshop visit.

Thanks

[adisan]

Observed an unusual growl while on a long drive. The noise in the cabin, even on idling, was more than normal. The car is a Beat Petrol with 78k km on the odo in a little over 7 years. Took the car to a workshop, where they said the alternator needs to be overhauled.

Apparently the pulley was getting weak, and a few bearings also had to be replaced. Now the cabin has become silent as before.

Hoping for the best.

[innervoice]

Greetings All,

As part of the trip preparation, I called batterywala person to check for the battery checkup.

Car is Maruti Ritz Petrol 8 years old. Battery is 3 years old of Amaron make.

The voltmeter reading was 12.7 V, but the technician said that the voltage reading on engine start is 14.7V and so dynamo needs to be changed. He said that else the battery can give up because dynamo is overcharging the battery.

My driving over the past few months has been very minimal, and so I am not sure if it would be any recent change.

Please suggest on the gravity of the situation, is 14.7V high and how to resolve the problem. Suggestions will be highly helpful.

[AutoSphere]

Originally Posted by innervoice

Greetings All,



Car is Maruti Ritz Petrol 8 years old. Battery is 3 years old of Amaron make.

The voltmeter reading was 12.7 V, but the technician said that the voltage reading on engine start is 14.7V and so dynamo needs to be changed. He said that else the battery can give up because dynamo is overcharging the battery.

Just a small correction that today's cars have an alternator (and not a Dynamo). The charging voltage can typically range from 13.5V to 14.5V, so your car may in-fact have no problem??

I believe that there is a voltage regulator that controls the charging voltage to the battery, which may be the cause of the problem. It may be a good idea to check with another auto-electrician to find out the real problem.

[UD17]

Originally Posted by AutoSphere

Just a small correction that today's cars have an alternator (and not a Dynamo). The charging voltage can typically range from 13.5V to 14.5V, so your car may in-fact have no problem??

I believe that there is a voltage regulator that controls the charging voltage to the battery, which may be the cause of the problem. It may be a good idea to check with another auto-electrician to find out the real problem.

I also agree that if you do not have any starting problems with the car currently, then you need not change the alternator at all. Voltage condition seems ok.

Although I highly doubt that the older Ritz has the LIN controlled alternator.

[Abhishekt]

For my Scorpio s6+ Intellihybrid Mahindra service centre quoted 1L+ for alternator replacement as parts are not available for repair, as apparently this alternator was used for just for small number of Intellihybrid versions, what are my options I am in Noida and no when has spare part to repair it.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Abhishekt

For my Scorpio s6+ Intellihybrid Mahindra service centre quoted 1L+ for alternator replacement as parts are not available for repair, as apparently this alternator was used for just for small number of Intellihybrid versions, what are my options I am in Noida and no when has spare part to repair it.

Find out what is wrong with it.

. If it is mechanical - bearing or bushes, then any good auto electrical shop can repair.

. If it is the rectifier diodes, then find their rating. As Mahindra does not manufacture the rectifier, there should be a part number on it. I all fails search online for rectifiers for 200A alternators.

Alternatively you can search for 200A alternators meant for RV.

https://www.amazon.com/200-amp-alter...amp+alternator

https://www.ubuy.co.in/product/QM3WP...-dsl-bosch-012

You can even ask some body to get it from US.

[saket77]

I am noticing something off in my Zen. The charging voltage is slightly lower like 13.6-13.8 volts which ideally should be 14.2-14.4 Volts.

I have a voltage monitor attached in my dashboard console hence I am able to get real-time readings. The issue is that with headlamps, stereo and AC on; and with lower revs, the charging voltage drops below 12V at times. I have cross checked the voltage with a volt meter.

Any pointers what could be the issue?