[akshay380]

I have a Ford Fiesta 1.6 at 94k Odo. At 76k I changed timing belt at Ford ASS. At 79k I detected oil burning smell after which Ford said Tappet cover gasket needs to be replaced. Replaced the same at Ford. 3k kms later the smell returned. On Opening Spark plug caps found oil seeping inside. Inspected the tappet cover for any visual damage/warp but didn't find any. Put a new gasket but leak still continues. Yesterday we opened timing belt cover and found it to be having oil stains too. Inside the tappet cover, oil leak is more towards right. The timing belt cover also sits on this side.
Can someone suggest what could have gone wrong? We can try replacing tappet cover and Cam seals(for leak inside Timing Belt cover) but I want to make sure its the culprit and not something else.
I want to know if Ford guys would have purposely done something during timing belt change so as to mess things up and get repeat work. I ask since my Figo after timing belt change also started leaking oil

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by akshay380

Can someone suggest what could have gone wrong? We can try replacing tappet cover and Cam seals(for leak inside Timing Belt cover) but I want to make sure its the culprit and not something else.
:

In my experience leaking covers tend to be due to the following:

- Use of inferior seals
- Incorrect torquing sequence
- Incorrect torque (no torque wrench used)
- Surfaces not cleaned properly

It seems an almost mundane task, replacing a seal. But a lot can go wrong if you do it to casually.

Make sure the engine is completely cooled down.

it is absolutely vital both surfaces are completely clean of any old sealing/gasket. The best instrument to check are your fingers and eyes. Run your finger across the total surface.

Make sure you are using a good seal/gasket. There is a reason why aftermarket seals/gaskets are cheap. They are often made of inferior materials and or don’t have a good fit.

Make sure you check the workshop manual on how to tighten the cover. There are two aspects to it. The sequence and the torque.

Again, without a workshop manual you will never know. But must covers are tightens as follows. Hand tighten all nuts/bolts. Then start applying, with a torque wrench, the correct torque, working from the bolts/nuts in the middle of the cover to the outside. Alternate both sides.

Some manufacturers actually specify torquing in two stages (e.g. typical 6-8 cylinder engines). On some cars you might have to re-torque these components after a short drive where the engines has the chance to warm up completely.

If all fails, some mechanics will apply some sealant paste to the gasket covers. I am not a huge fan. It makes for a messy job next time cleaning.

There is another reason why a cover might leak: if its warped. You can check that on a workbench or with a good long straight ruler or similar.

Good luck

Jeroen

[akshay380]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

In my experience leaking covers tend to be due to the following

Thank you for taking time to reply. Both gaskets were original Ford ones. Second time my FNG applied sealant but still leak didn't stop. He doubts its the valve cover but wants to confirm before we order one. Its 4500INR. And yes tightening sequence was followed as per workshop manual which I have. Need to confirm for torque rating.

[Jaggu]

Jeroen has pretty much covered it.

You will have to remove and check both the cover and the surface on the engine, ensure its really smooth and even and then use new gasket. If there are cracks on the cover, then you have to replace the cover. I am not a big fan of using sealants where it is not required, unless there is a damage that needs to be covered up.

Your garage seems to know what needs to be done, do go ahead and post pics of the surfaces when then open the cover.

[sgiitk]

Is a lot of blow by contributing to the woes. That can be a parameter. In the dinosaur days, blow by was endemic esp in the Premier cars. I had one Premier Padmini DX with 'high compression' engine, which had really bad blow by.. We did not get 93RON so the normal 87ON had to do. Mind you one had to be spot on in tuning.