[Motard_Blr]

A few things to add:
- replace the brake fluid completely with fresh DOT 4 fluid. Not DOT 3 fluid. The old fluid seems to be contaminated with water.

- once brake pads and shoes overheat, their "feel" changes because the friction material changes properties permanently. So replace both front and rear brake pads and shoes.

- the rubber seals inside the brake cylinders and brake calipers can and do degrade over time. More so if they have overheated. Replace the brake cylinders assemblies in the rear and the seal kit in the front calipers.

- although the master cylinder has probably not overheated, it would be safe to replace the seals (if available). Replacing the entire master cylinder assembly can be expensive so it's worth checking all the other causes first.

- the rear drum brakes are fitted with automatic play adjusters for the brake shoes. These can and do fail due to rust and dust. Best to have these replaced as well.

- if your car has ABS, then make sure that the correct procedure to flush brake fluid is followed to ensure that there are no air bubbles inside the ABS actuator.

As you might have guessed by now, you must have the entire braking system overhauled. I always say that a car should stop far better than it goes.

[Mortis]

Got the brakes fixed on Saturday. There was a slight leakage and softening of seals on both rear brake cylinders. Got them replaced with bleeding and brakes work as they should now.
Thanks a lot for all the advice guys

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by Mortis

Got the brakes fixed on Saturday. There was a slight leakage and softening of seals on both rear brake cylinders. Got them replaced with bleeding and brakes work as they should now.
Thanks a lot for all the advice guys

If the seals of the wheel cylinders had softened, it is advisable to replace the flexible hoses as well as have a look at the seals of the front caliper pistons.

[bharatbits]

Hope the issue is resolved permanently. For these kind of issues going to the fng will not inspire confidence in me to later take the car on long drives or do speeds over 80kmph. I owned a Beat TCDi for close to 2 years and found Chev servicing quite economical. They being trained and experienced will identify the problem in a blink of a eye and restore to original condition in 1 to 2 hours depending on the rush.

[coolmind]

Even I also had a crazy braking issue with my Grand i10.
I was stopped at red signal. Once it turned green, I tried to start moving ahead by releasing the hand brake. But to my surprise, the car started moving in reverse direction inspite of being in first gear. Please note that it was almost a flat road.
I tried to apply hand brake and brake pedal, but it moved very freely with no impact at all.
At last I tried engine braking by releasing the clutch completely but still it did not stop.
So I immediately switched off and restarted the engine. Now everything working fine after restarting.
I was lucky that it did not run into rear vehicles.
Any suggestions and root cause would be very helpful.
Last service was done in May'2019.
Car was purchased in April'2015 and is regularly serviced at authorized service center.

[Mortis]

Sorry buddy can't help you with that one. Seems like a gearbox or clutch issue maybe ? Experts will chime in.

Btw I should have updated this sooner but my trip was successful and brakes worked fine. Except for a small stone that got caught between the pad and caliper and would occasionally make a scraping noise till I tapped the brakes and would come back after a while. Fixed by driving fast in reverse after getting back.

Unfortunately my bad luck continues !!

1) Tak Tak noise from the engine bay on idle or low rpms/lugging of engine. Goes away or is masked at higher rpms and when clutch is depressed. Clutch release bearing issue maybe ?

2) Power Steering fluid was low and mucky. Humming noise on full lock. Easy enough to replace

3) Rusting on the running board just behind the front wheel on drivers side

4) AC cooling coil failure and gas has leaked out. I had topped up before summer because I thought that the AC service guys had filled less gas. Repeat means it's a leak. AC guy said he will have to search for a new cooling coil and estimated a cost of 7-9000. We agreed that it makes more sense to top up the gas every 4-6 months for the 1-2 years that I plan to keep the car at 700 bucks a pop. Will cost far less and also no removal of dashboard required.

[javageek]

Dear Fellow Bhpians,
I am bumping up an old thread on the issue with Brake Master Cylinder as I am facing the same issue, though the car in this case is a 2018 Tiago XZ with 11.5 K kms on odometer.
I would humbly the request the mods to move it to separate thread on Tiago brakes, if deemed necessary.
The issue started about after a month after doing 4th full servicing at a multicar service station, prior to which all the services were done at Tata ASC and the quality was appalling to say the least. I took the car on daily errand and luckily while I was still under 20 Kph and about 500 mts from home, I applied brakes. The brake pedal simply sank till the bottom before there was any bite. Drove it back home cautiously and then to the Multi service station on weekend. The service advisor said that probably air was in the brake line, and it was not bleeded properly earlier. Brake bleeding and top up was done and the brake was good again.
Then after about 3 weeks, I took the Tiago and the same issue happened. As I had lost my faith in the previous Multicar outlet, drove to another one this time. They checked thoroughly for any leakage on all 4 wheels and other related areas and told that Master cylinder is faulty and would need to be replaced. As I didn't want to change such critical part anywhere other than Tata ASC, i told them to bleed and top up again so that I could take the car to ASC.
Initially the Senior Service Advisor at ASC was very skeptic when I explained the issue and told that I need the Master cylinder needs replacement. He said that it must be some other issue. But on telling him that I am member of team-bhp he gave weightage to my words and checked the car himself. He agreed that there was indeed an issue, but he would revert only after a thorough check.
Today he called to me and told me that they would replace the entire brake booster with Tandem Master Cylinder costing about 9K.
Could you please let me know if it is really required to change the Brake Booster with TMC or replacing the TMC alone suffices. Also the SA told me that Brake Booster and TMC are single unit, while on a spare parts portal i can see that both of them are available - TMC alone ( about 4K ) and TMC with Brake Booster ( about 9K ).
A quick revert would be highly appreciated as I need to revert to the ASC by today evening.
Thanks & Regards,
Javageek