[drdeepudev]

Originally Posted by Sutripta

The discussions about the EGR deserve a thread of its own. Could one of the 'EGR Participants' start such a thread pls.

Regards
Sutripta

True, EGR needs a separate thread of its own. Saw somewhere in facebook the photo of an EGR of ford figo. If that can be believed it was full of black stuff. I inquired about egr cleaning in an outside workshop at Trivandrum and the workshop manager informed me to get it done with the 90,000 km and quoted a amount of Rs 12,000 approx (90,000 km service + EGR cleaning). Regarding my car, im open for experimentation.

[interc00led]

Originally Posted by lurker

In BSIII engine, there was no EGR and some Toyota Qualis and Innova which do not have it are running fine even today without opening the engine.


People who have removed EGR have gained 3 km/L in England. Second the engine runs better on fresh air and you even do not have to change engine oil that frequently. So that lesser crud thrown back into the environment. EGR gains are only theoritical and only in the initial phases before sludge cakes up inside engine and makes every little gain earned through EGR immaterial.

there are people who have kept a sensor on EGR so that they get a notification on when exactly the damn EGR closes. Firstly it doesn't close that frequently, and then when it builds up sludge it doesn't close ever at all.

What ? EGR was there in BSIII engines. The 1.3 ddis and mjd always had an EGR.
From where do you get such information ?

[lurker]

In BSIII engine, if you block the EGR with a blanking plate, the ECU doesn't throw up any CEL. Which means what ? ECR is not as busy in a BSIII as it is in a BSIV.

real world performance of EGR is very different from literature regurgitated by manufacturers.

EGR systems operate primarily when the vehicle is cruising under light load. Because there is less demand on the engine when the vehicle is cruising under light load, the engine can afford to temporarily lose some capacity. Also, because of the cooling effect of the EGR system, the engine can run cooler when the vehicle is cruising under light load. Because the engine is cooler, the engine’s lubricating oil is cooler as well. Cool oil lasts longer and works better than oil that has been continuously overheated. Therefore, the EGR system is important for the cool running of the engine and also in the protection of the engine oil from continuous heat.

In the real world, EGR valves often don’t work very well.
What goes wrong is this: the exhaust gases from the vehicle’s engine contain much more than just carbon dioxide: they also contain dozens of chemical by-products, left behind after the fuel was burnt inside the engine. One of these by-products is a fine dust, known as particulates. This dust is mostly unburnt carbon fuel. The more efficiently the diesel engine burns its fuel, the less carbon dust is produced. However, no diesel engine works with anything like complete efficiency and, over time, the carbon dust inside the exhaust gases begins to clog up the EGR system, reducing the movement of the EGR valve. This clogged EGR valve causes the engine to run badly due to an imbalance in the fuel/air mixture. Because the engine is running badly, the fuel is not being consumed efficiently. Because the fuel is not being consumed efficiently, more carbon dust is produced. Some of this carbon dust within the exhaust gets recycled by the EGR system, clogging the EGR valve still further. The more the EGR gets clogged, the more carbon dust is produced. The more carbon dust is produced, the more the EGR valve clogs. This viscious circle continues until the EGR valve jams completely open or closed.

http://www.dogandlemon.com/articles/...l-egr-problems

which means by the time EGR block has been figured out, a lot of damage to the engine has already been done. The wear and tear for 2 lakh kms has undergone in 1 lakh kms. In BSIV engines like MJD with VGT this can be suicidal.

[Ashokkp]

Hello

My 2005 Octavia 1.9 TDI(82000 Kms) seems to run not as well as it used to be; could be my imagination;

So, I got the Turbo and the EGR cleaned and the performance did improve. However, I have a feeling that it could be better.

I keep reading about EGR delete. Is it a process by which the EGR itself is removed or is it achieved by software changes? I will appreciate if the process and the pros and cons are discussed..

Is cleaning the Intake manifold the natural option before "EGR Delete"?

How much could be the approximate costs of these procedures?

Regards
Ashok

[roy_libran]

While on the topic of EGR Delete, I have come across two potential ways of accomplishing this.
The first is to physically fashion and insert a Plate that prevents the gases from reaching the Valve altogether.
The second is to block the Vacuum Pipe that controls the Actuation of the Valve. This was the Valve remains in Closed position throughout.

Which, of these, is the preferred way to do this, and Why? Is there any other way to EGR Delete, that is preferable to the above?

[::CMS::]

For a complete EGR Delete you need to close the EGR valve, a simple way is to insert a plate before reaching the valve.
But almost all modern ECUs can detect this change in the air flow and will show up CEL in the console. So for a complete EGR delete you need to disable the EGR Flag in the ECU map, usually its easy to do in a remapped car. Theoretically an EGR delete can give a slightly better performance wrt the pickup and early turbo spool (it can cross the efficient turbo range fast too and a slight drop in the top end).

[drdeepudev]

Reviving this thread.

Actually I'm in a dilemma. As some of our members know, my MJD 1.3 linea is suffering from an oil consumption issue and I'm planning to open up the engine. Along with this rebuild, I'm planning to block the EGR valve with a plate as mentioned and deleting/ altering that in the ECU.

But, EGR being a technology along with others, for reducing the NOx/ harmful gas emissions, I'm bit worried about that. Being a nature lover, I'm doing my part in destroying the nature.

But, as lurker pointed out and also after searching a lot, I'm of the opinion that EGR along with long drain interval of fiat caused the early engine failure. After the rebuild, I don't want another early engine failure. Post build up, I'm planning to change the engine oil every 5000- 7500 km interval.

Please advise.

Thanks and regards,
Deepu

[balenoed_]

Hello Guys,

Have a query and found this thread related to EGR valve:-

Does anyone out there know how much would it cost for this part for Chevrolet Beat?

One fine morning the car refused to start and the mechanic says that a replacement is needed.
Is this common that this part needs to be replaced @27K kms? Service center quoting 15K for this. Any idea whether this is worth it?

[pcpranav]

Originally Posted by balenoed_

Hello Guys,

Have a query and found this thread related to EGR valve:-

Does anyone out there know how much would it cost for this part for Chevrolet Beat?

One fine morning the car refused to start and the mechanic says that a replacement is needed.
Is this common that this part needs to be replaced @27K kms? Service center quoting 15K for this. Any idea whether this is worth it?

found a very similar issue on TAI forum : http://goo.gl/2aoBGN !! maybe check prices in other stores or check OEM ?

generally EGR should last long, but its like a piston inside so may fail. it maybe good idea to get cleaned sometimes, as some soot maybe deposited in it. but also some spirited drive once in a while for a diesel engine will "cough out" all that soot n gunk.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by balenoed_

One fine morning the car refused to start and the mechanic says that a replacement is needed

Car not starting and EGR Valve replacement??!

I am sorry but I can't see any connection. If the valve is gone bad you'll get a check engine light on your instrumentation console.

[Abbas]

I have a Skoda Vrs 2005. Offlate whenever i take it out of town. Say about 10 kms or more, suddenly there would be a power loss. Then i would just switch off the car and restart it and the power will be back on. After another 20 odd kms later the same thing will happen.

So, i checked it with my local mechanic and he says the EGR needs replacement.

Will EGR replacing help?

[drdeepudev]

Off late many discussion is going on about the EGR valve. A few posts back, I was thinking about blocking the EGR valve during the engine rebuild of my Fiat linea (2009 MJD), and that was an year back. I had done the rebuild and the EGR is blocked using a metal plate/ piece. It was a kind of experiment to see what happens when the valve is blocked. This was done a year back and the vehicle has run 10,000km after that. The engine oil is changed every 5000km now and Im using Shell Helix HX7 for the past 3 times.

Post this I had taken the car to FASS for check up and in their computer / scanner it is shown EGR locked. Since the vehicle is a 2009 model, the engine is BS3 specs. There is no CEL in the console. But, a BS 4, 2012 Linea MJD which underwent the same procedure had a CEL. So, im not sure an EGR valve complaint can cause this kind of issues. If it would cause, then mine and my friend's linea should not run post blanking.

[balenoed_]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Car not starting and EGR Valve replacement??!

I am sorry but I can't see any connection. If the valve is gone bad you'll get a check engine light on your instrumentation console.

Yes, It was not starting. And yes, the engine malfunction light was glowing on the console. And prior to calling the service center, we did those basic checks like battery check, bump start etc, but no luck. Left the car for 2 days to dry assuming that water clogging must have happened due to heavy rains. But still there was no sign of it getting started. And that is when the mechanic was bought in and he was just sure that the EGR valve replacement is the only solution.

Without having any other option, we had to get that done. Towed the car to service center and got it replaced. The car is fine now.

Originally Posted by Abbas

So, i checked it with my local mechanic and he says the EGR needs replacement.

Will EGR replacing help?

Yes, in my case. Probably in your case too, it might solve the problem if the mechanic is sure about that.

Actually, it is my colleagues car which I too used to borrow when my car is back in native. Costed him 26K with EGR replacement, general servicing, some parts (brake shoes.. etc) replacement as well.

Beat is not that small as you think.

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by Abbas

I have a Skoda Vrs 2005. Offlate whenever i take it out of town. Say about 10 kms or more, suddenly there would be a power loss. Then i would just switch off the car and restart it and the power will be back on. After another 20 odd kms later the same thing will happen.

So, i checked it with my local mechanic and he says the EGR needs replacement.

Will EGR replacing help?

If your car is the vRS that is 1.8 turbo petrol then there is no egr valve in the engine. You can remove all emissions related junk from that engine and it would still run good, albeit with a cel. From your description it seems like a ign coil problem or fuel pump issue. I have the same car a 2007 model.

Diagnose using rosstech vcds before you approach any garage. It will give you some clue. Not all errors will light up a CEL.

[greenhorn]

Originally Posted by RavenAvi

The petrol VGT is water-cooled and includes dual variable valve timing for increased fuel efficiency, while the diesel VGT has EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) for improved low-end performance and superior mileage numbers.

A bit Puzzled by this statement - Usually when the EGR turns on, performance takes a hit, and not sure about mileage, and my understanding of EGR is that it is used primarily for emission compliance. Heck, my indica has a built in egr defeat that kicks in at extremely low and high rpms'. Dont want to take the nexon discussion offtopic, so cross posting here