[Indian2003]

Originally Posted by vishy76

Mine didn't come in one piece. I am not even sure if the mechanic centered the clutch since I was not there when the GB was reinstalled.

I used a short piece of an old gearbox input shaft as a centering tool. I put the shaft in first and bolted on the clutch pressure plate, getting the friction plate perfectly in the centre. I removed the shaft before bolting on the gearbox. Later on I got myself a universal tool

If the friction plate is not in the centre, the mechanic will have to force the gearbox in using the bolts, risking a bent input shaft. I have seen this being done once at a backyard workshop.
The gearbox if everything is alligned, should easily slide in without the use of force to mate with the engine.

If the shaft is bent you will be looking at problems in the future. It could damage your new clutch and cause bearing problems inside the gearbox.

You said earlier that he did not use a torque wrench. This has me wondering if he did the job according to the books.

I went back to your post and see that he has pulled out the output flange on the gearbox.

When this shaft is removed from the gearbox it has to be firmly pushed in to refit and connect the locking ring. When I removed mine, I had to help with a hammer to get it to lock. I am sure your problem lies here. I just cannot understand why he did this. Perhaps he is used to working with Toyotas without the locking ring where the shaft just slides into the gearbox.

Have this sorted out before things break.

He would never be able to push in the flange connected to the driveshaft. Go back to the shop and ask him to remove the driveshafts the proper way and make sure the flanges are locked in place before fitting the driveshafts. Your problems should go away


This is a gearbox with the driveshafts removed and I have marked the flange.



This your gearbox with the flange pulled out. You can clearly see that he has plugged the hole with paper.



Here is the driveshaft. Note that the inner joint is fitted with bolts.



Here is the flange and all the parts that he pulled out. A big No No. This has to be fitted first and the driveshaft bolted on to it. Otherwise it is impossible to get it all the way in to lock. Look underneath the car and look at the inner joint and take some clear pictures. Look for oil leaks!

[vishy76]

Originally Posted by Tgo

-The "Thak" sound I can associate with the two parts of the flywheel (the two masses) getting wound up. I mean the damping springs between the two masses getting compressed fully or letting go corresponding to pressing and letting go of the accelerator. It shouldn't be there.
[/indent]
I think it's time you met with the owner of the FNG along with your friend who recommended you this place to have a look at the issue.

Cannot really make out the judder in the video but you can check if the underbody protection plate (if present) is mounted correctly with the correct number of screws which hold it in place.

As promised, here's a video of the Thak Thak sound when I was letting go and punching the throttle in first and second gear. The first recording is from November, 2021 and it has been shot from the left hand side wheel arch.

The second video was shot 3 days back. There's a narrow deserted stretch of road with an adjoining compund wall near to my home. I captured this video while driving against the wall so that the sound can be heard loud and clear.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=UikI8N1AIMM?feature=share

https://youtube.com/watch?v=YCRjcevOC6o?feature=share

[Tgo]

Originally Posted by vishy76

As promised, here's a video of the Thak Thak sound when I was letting go and punching the throttle in first and second gear

Yes, the sound is quite noticeable in the video from inside the car. Just to confirm, you hear the sound, when the clutch is fully engaged and you step on and off the accelerator, is this the issue? If so, looks like it is coming from the DMF unless something in the gearbox is causing it. The two masses have a bearing which allows relative movement between them. The bearing clearances determine what your axial and radial play will be between the two masses. Being a new install I do not doubt the bearings. I would investigate more on procedure for install i.e. improper method, centering, checking play before install, loose bolts, not using recommended thread locking products.

The LUK information catalog I mentioned, did you go through it? Usually, not tightening in a STAR pattern can lead to improper alignment of parts, stress build up, warping etc.

In the other video it appears like the car is stationary in which case the clutch will make some noise at the bite point as there is actual mechanical contact happening and breaking at that point.

That's all I can think of for now.