[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by suhailcbe

Below are the observations:

• WIPER BLADE NON OE
• LH AC VENT DAMAGE
• REVERSE CAMERA NON OE
• ROOF LIGHT BULB NOT WORKING
• AC LED BULB NOT WORKING
• AC MOBE CABLE STRUCK UP
• ALL DOOR WHEATHER STRIP DAMAGE
• OIL FILTER BASE ORING OIL LEAK
• REAR BOTH WHEEL CYLINDER OIL LEAK
• LOWER ARM AND LINK ROD BOOT CUT BRAKE DISC SCORING
• BRAKE PAD THICKNESS 2.5MM
• CALIPER PIN BOOT BULGE
• FR LH FENDER LINER DAMAGE
• WHEEL ALIGNMENT AND BALANCING NOT DONE

I asked them for estimate for each but I couldn't remember correctly. Today I called them again and asked for the estimate to replace the main parts. Below is the estimate:

Brake pads, Disk - 7800
Caliper pin, Boot - 3800
Oil filter base o ring - 800
Rear brake cylinders - 4800
Lower arm, Link rod, Boot - 9800

If the above items are categorized under 2 headings namely cosmetic and mechanical, the list would look like

Cosmetic[*]LH AC VENT DAMAGE[*]REVERSE CAMERA NON OE[*]AC LED BULB NOT WORKING[*]ROOF LIGHT BULB NOT WORKING

Mechanical[*]WIPER BLADE NON OE[*]ROOF LIGHT BULB NOT WORKING[*]AC MOBE CABLE STRUCK UP[*]ALL DOOR WHEATHER STRIP DAMAGE[*]OIL FILTER BASE ORING OIL LEAK[*]REAR BOTH WHEEL CYLINDER OIL LEAK[*]LOWER ARM AND LINK ROD BOOT CUT BRAKE DISC SCORING[*]BRAKE PAD THICKNESS 2.5MM[*]CALIPER PIN BOOT BULGE[*]FR LH FENDER LINER DAMAGE[*]WHEEL ALIGNMENT AND BALANCING NOT DONE

I would address the mechanical ones first, especially the brakes and suspension. The front discs and pad replacement along with new caliper pin boot and the rear wheel cylinders should be the highest prio. The car is basically running on a compromised braking which is a no no. The damaged front LH fender liner maybe causing the dirt and muck onto the suspension and brake components leading to faster degradation, so that would need to be replaced as well

The lower arms and link rods also are important suspension components and if they are shot, they need to be replaced.

Wiper blade, roof light bulb replacement are 10 mins job. The oil filter O ring leak will be fixed when you install a new oil filter which comes with new O ring anyway

I am not sure about the AC mode cable stuck. Can be a seized cable which can be lubricated and set right or the whole AC mode selector unit needs to be replaced.

Also, the AC LED bulb can be fixed outside if you can remove the whole AC unit and take it to a competent auto electronics repair.

[Geo_Ipe]

Originally Posted by suhailcbe

OIL FILTER BASE ORING OIL LEAK - 800
REAR BOTH WHEEL CYLINDER OIL LEAK - 4800
LOWER ARM AND LINK ROD BOOT - 9500
BRAKE DISC SCORING BRAKE PAD - 7800

Please get a proper oil service done - which includes changing the engine oil, oil filter & O ring. Get the air filter checked as well. If your car has a cabin AC filter, get that one checked as well.

Think of the brake component changes as preventive maintenance. If you're not sure when the brake pads were changed, it is better to go ahead and change them. Total brake related work is quoted at approx 12.5k - if you decide to get it all done, you're safe for the next 50k km at least.

The lower arm and boot may be changed during next service also - provided they're in ok condition. I don't expect a 90k run Honda to have suspension trouble - but then it was 90k run by someone else and we don't know how abused the car was in all those kms.

If I were you, this would be the order of replacements I would do.

[NomadSK]

This is how I would be troubleshooting the issues;

-WIPER BLADE NON OE - Put some water on the windshield and see how the wiper sweeps, if the blade rubber is good and sweepeing fine, just leave it and no need to change

-LH AC VENT DAMAGE - No air flowing or just stuck in place ? If its the air, Then repair else it can also wait.

-REVERSE CAMERA NON OE - Chuck it out, don't worry as long as its working its fine.

-ROOF LIGHT BULB NOT WORKING - Change it, minimal time and money, Infact this can be done DIY.

-AC LED BULB NOT WORKING - You mean on the AC knob ? If Yes, just ignore.

-AC MOBE CABLE STRUCK UP - Not clear what does this mean ?

-ALL DOOR WHEATHER STRIP DAMAGE - The rubber shows aging over a period of time. Check yourself the condition. For sure not a critical item.

-OIL FILTER BASE ORING OIL LEAK - Most important, you will have to change the engine oil with filter.

-REAR BOTH WHEEL CYLINDER OIL LEAK - Most Important - You are probably losing break fluid.

-LOWER ARM AND LINK ROD BOOT CUT BRAKE DISC SCORING - Most Important

-BRAKE PAD THICKNESS 2.5MM - Too thin, time for replacement.

-CALIPER PIN BOOT BULGE - I dont know what this is.

-FR LH FENDER LINER DAMAGE - Ignore for the time being.

-WHEEL ALIGNMENT AND BALANCING NOT DONE - While driving, if you notice car pulling to one side, uneven braking, steering wobbling, then go for it. Else have someone drive and guide you.

[suhailcbe]

Update:

I gave the car to Honda service centre to replace the parts. I'm waiting there for the car delivery. Now the service advisor is saying there is some noise coming from the damper. He told me this when I was making the payment.

I'm kind of panicking now as I have already signed the documents. I asked him what the noise was and if I can do a test drive. He said he will get the gate pass ready and come back. I don't know what to do now. There was no noise from the suspension before.

What should I do now?

[NomadSK]

Originally Posted by suhailcbe

What should I do now?

First and foremost thing you shouldn’t panic.

Whatever be the problem it can be resolved. Listen to the Honda people what they say and make your informed decision. Don’t fall into their trap. Drive the car and observe the dynamics yourself. If you feel something is a miss, just Take the car to some other reputed mechanic for his opinion.

Heads up For dampers - go near the each wheel well and physically check for any oil leakages observed. If they aren’t leaking oil they are good to go. And if leakages are observed then it’s time for replacement. But not to be panicked about.

Good luck

[suhailcbe]

Originally Posted by NomadSK

First and foremost thing you shouldn’t panic.

Whatever be the problem it can be resolved. Listen to the Honda people what they say and make your informed decision. Don’t fall into their trap. Drive the car and observe the dynamics yourself. If you feel something is a miss, just Take the car to some other reputed mechanic for his opinion.

Heads up For dampers - go near the each wheel well and physically check for any oil leakages observed. If they aren’t leaking oil they are good to go. And if leakages are observed then it’s time for replacement. But not to be panicked about.

Good luck

Thanks.

They called the person who inspected the car. He sat in the car and asked me to drive. I couldn't find any difference in noises. The noises I heard were already there.

The inspection guy explained the noises from damper are too less to be worried about now. My father brought someone who is a truck driver. He has some experience in car inspection. He drove the car for some distance and said everything is fine.

It was a relief to know everything was fine (at least for now)

[rroy92]

Originally Posted by NomadSK

-AC MOBE CABLE STRUCK UP - Not clear what does this mean ?

My guess is it is a typo. AC MODE misspelled as MOBE. The AC circulation or vent redirection cable is stuck.