[AYP]

Good day everyone,

One of the headlight connector of My Ford Figo 2017 model got burnt and the headlight stopped working. A few pics of the burnt connector-







I observed this sometime late last year. I am not using high wattage bulbs. I got the servicing of my car done a few weeks after I noticed this and was informed that the entire loom/wire had to be replaced to rectify it. The estimated cost was 15k-18k. However, after the service, the headlight started to work again. I am not sure if the SA got some adjustment done to it(he never mentioned anything).

However, a couple of days, it went kaput again. This time, I took to an FNG who replaced the headlight connector. The wires were spliced and the wiring of the new connector was joined to the car's original wiring and tape was wrapped over the joint. The connector was of Roots brand and costed me 200 bucks. Pics of the same-





I'd like to know your opinion on this work.

1. Is this method safe?

2. Should I ultimately aspire to change the entire loom/wiring?

3. Has anyone else changed only the headlight connector in their car? How has the experience been?

4. A few folks have suggested me to get the entire wiring change to be on the safe side. While I can't deny that changing the entire loom would be the better option, but I went through a lot of YouTube videos and Reddit only to realise that this method of changing only the connector is quite common and folks have done this on much more expensive cars. One example-

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABuYrtqviRM

5. Any other pointers shall be appreciated.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by AYP

I'd like to know your opinion on this work.

1. Is this method safe?

2. Should I ultimately aspire to change the entire loom/wiring?

3. Has anyone else changed only the headlight connector in their car? How has the experience been?

4. A few folks have suggested me to get the entire wiring change to be on the safe side. While I can't deny that changing the entire loom would be the better option, but I went through a lot of YouTube videos and Reddit only to realise that this method of changing only the connector is quite common and folks have done this on much more expensive cars. One example-

Yes, replacing only the H4 connector is safe, no need to change the entire loom. Roots is a reputed brand. However, I suggest you get the connection joint soldered and wrapped in heat shrink. Most garages just splice the wires, join them by twisting the strands and put a roll of insulation tape. But this is not the right way and over the time with exposure to heat and moisture the tape will get undone and may cause a short.

[condor]

Along with the soldering, You can also add a heat-shrink wrap on top of the joints.

[Jeroen]

In general soldering of wires on cars is frowned upon. Use proper splicing techniques and connectors.

There are two reasons: one is that although soldering appears to be very easy, very few mechanics do it properly.

You need to have the correct soldering gun, temperature, solder, flux and know how. Poor soldering work will cause resistance, corrosion and breakage.

The second reason is that even the best made wire soldering remains brittle and vibrations, heat, humidity and so on will take effect over time.

So crimp connections are the recommended way of splicing car wire looms.

Jeroen

[vrprabhu]

I second what Jeroen says. From personal experience. On my bike, though.

Same problem - the bulb connector and its rubber cover (not the one covering the bulb holder) became brittle due to age and ultimately the wires got cut. Got a new holder (ceramic one from a car) and did the joint, just the way it has been done in your car. However, as Sagar has posted, the insulation peeled off and almost had a short (the HL doesn't pull any current from the battery in the bike).

So, got some male/female connectors and crimped them to the wire ends, after which used plastic shrouds while connecting them. Holding up well even after four years. The connectors on the ceramic holder have heavy duty wires (as can be seen in your pictures) and hence connectors ensured a proper fit.

PS - I noticed sulphation on your original holder. This appears to be result of acid fumes? Please check your battery, especially its tray and clamps. Loose fitting may also result in higher vibration and leakage of battery electrolyte.

[Mortis]

An easier option is to get heatshrink with built in solder. The solder will melt into the spliced wires and at the same time the heatshrink will seal the connection

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by AYP

I'd like to know your opinion on this work.

1. Is this method safe?
As long as the bulb & fuse are of the correct rating, it's absolutely safe.

2. Should I ultimately aspire to change the entire loom/wiring?
Nothing points to that need, unless you have visible damage to the wiring insulation. Rat bites, chemical degradation (things like engine shiner / dressing fluids often cause this), sometimes force the need for wiring change.

3. Has anyone else changed only the headlight connector in their car? How has the experience been?
Plenty of times. No reason to change entire wiring harnesses just because a headlight connector burnt out.

4. A few folks have suggested me to get the entire wiring change to be on the safe side. While I can't deny that changing the entire loom would be the better option...
Changing the wiring harness is not an easy job, nor should it be done by semi-skilled mechanics that work on our cars in India (and that includes those that work in the ASCs). Other than OE harnesses, the quality of the wires is often suspect (but sometimes aftermarket harnesses are better, such as your new connector which seems to have thicker gauge wiring than your OE wires that they are spliced to).

[maheshm619]

Originally Posted by AYP

Good day everyone,


I'd like to know your opinion on this work.

3. Has anyone else changed only the headlight connector in their car? How has the experience been?

Hi, I am using this connector in my 2018 Ford Freestyle. It is however not used due to any damage in my primary connector.

I'm using a led projector which has high beam function and it requires a wire from high beam pin to trigger it. I made a male to female connector using this ceramic connectors and had a high beam signal tapped from it while not damaging the original connector.

Those connectors are working fine for last 2 + years. Just make sure you have the correct rating for fuse installed, for safety. Also poorly crimped/ loose connectors can cause localized heating / melting of connectors even for correct wattage of bulbs.

[dkaile]

https://youtu.be/D4b_gSciGIg?si=iURorKHkO4oeCx7X

Cheers...

[bikertillidie]

I prefer a hybrid approach, a combination of of crimping, heat shrink tubing as well as soldering wherever there is a need to splice wiring.

You can try using the following:

https://amzn.in/d/dC03351

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by bikertillidie

You can try using the following:

https://amzn.in/d/dC03351

I have tried these.

Never use these shrink solder connections. They are the worst of the soldering connection. It’s not as easy to apply them as it looks. Because you need to be able to rotate the wire connection freely.

They are using a solder with a very low melting point. But even so, if you keep the heat gun on it too long, the shrink material will burn.

Even when the soldering connectionmlooked good, in most cases I could still pull the wires looose. Applying some flux before putting these soldering shrinks fits on might help a bit.

There might be the odd situation where these things come in handy. But all the issues you would have from a bad solder connection don't go away by using low temperature solder inside a heat shrink wrap and using a heat gun. The problem remains that few people know how to solder. These things don't make it easier. But they do provide an estatical more pleasing way of hiding your poor soldering connections.

If you want to use these, get military grade ones! The military uses them for emergency repairs.

Jeroen

[sudeepg]

Originally Posted by AYP

I'd like to know your opinion on this work.

1. Is this method safe?

Not 100%. That is an H4 aftermarket connector which is not waterproof. I always recommend using waterproof connectors

Originally Posted by AYP

2. Should I ultimately aspire to change the entire loom/wiring?

This is not required at all, as long as you have a good connector that is water proof and has a good connection. This also means that as you plug the connector in and out over the period of time, the connector must retain its integrity to be a good solution. Crimping does precisely this, but a good solder is equally good.

A proper soldered connection will outlive the wire, but not all mechanics have the hardware, desire, time and tools to achieve that. Soldered connections will not break as they are stronger than the wire itself.

Originally Posted by AYP

3. Has anyone else changed only the headlight connector in their car? How has the experience been?

I have never changed the factory wiring, but have used my own set of wiring connecting to factory wiring. I can say that my last headlight upgrade with my own wiring and connectors have been running fine for 10 years now with no breakdowns.

Originally Posted by AYP

4. A few folks have suggested me to get the entire wiring change to be on the safe side. While I can't deny that changing the entire loom would be the better option, but I went through a lot of YouTube videos and Reddit only to realise that this method of changing only the connector is quite common and folks have done this on much more expensive cars. One example-

Changing connectors is common, but not so uncommon is the perfection and integrity with which they are done. If not properly done, it could trigger a short or electrical malfunction. Worst, a fire. So if you are doing it, do it properly is my suggestion. You never want to get stuck with an electrical issue while you are on a trip. They are hard to diagnose sometimes and difficult to fix easily. Take the time, do it properly.

In your case, the ingress point of those connectors are not water proof. I'd fix that.

[bikertillidie]

Originally Posted by Jeroen

I have tried these

They are using a solder with a very low melting point. But even so, if you keep the heat gun on it too long, the shrink material will burn.

Even when the soldering connectionmlooked good, in most cases I could still pull the wires looose. Applying some flux before putting these soldering shrinks fits on might help a bit.

There might be the odd situation where these things come in handy. But all the issues you would have from a bad solder connection don't go away by using low temperature solder inside a heat shrink wrap and using a heat gun. The problem remains that few people know how to solder. These things don't make it easier. But they do provide an estatical more pleasing way of hiding your poor soldering connections.

If you want to use these, get military grade ones! The military uses them for emergency repairs.

Jeroen

I usually twist the copper strands together to ensure a snug fit before sliding the shrink tube on top. Twisting the strands ensures the wires do not work loose, even if the solder isn't 100 % perfect.

But I do agree, one needs to be careful while wielding the heat gun. Hold it in one place for too long and you'll melt the insulation covering the wires..

Thus far, I haven't had any problems with this approach

[AYP]

Originally Posted by sudeepg

Not 100%. That is an H4 aftermarket connector which is not waterproof. I always recommend using waterproof connectors

Could you please elaborate a bit more on this? Do you mean to say that the Roots connector that I have installed is not waterproof?

Could you please suggest me a waterproof connector(name and/or link to buy)? Also, do you know if the original connector of my car is waterproof?

Thanks.

[sudeepg]

Originally Posted by AYP

Could you please elaborate a bit more on this? Do you mean to say that the Roots connector that I have installed is not waterproof?

Could you please suggest me a waterproof connector(name and/or link to buy)? Also, do you know if the original connector of my car is waterproof?

Thanks.

A waterproof connector will have seals at the entry point of the wires into the connector. Take a look at the link below. That roots connector does not seem to be waterproof. I have seen them before. I am also unable to say if the OEM connectors are waterproof considering the burnt images, but waterproof connectors look like the ones in the link below

https://evelta.com/connectors/automotive-connectors/