[Blooming Flower]

Originally Posted by CJ-500D

The machine asks for the specific car model and variant to be selected before the start of the test.

Before start of adjusting the settings manually, to be precise. It asks the specific car model as it fetches the alignment values of that specific model from the stored database. Before selecting the model 'laser reading ok' (green signal) is done. Please check the sequence next time.

And the specific angle of the reflector is set by trial & error to get the 'laser reading ok' only. Again, it's doesn't have any relation with vehicle specific database.

[BlackPearl]

Could you please throw some light on choosing between spacers and negative offset alloys as I understand both would make the wheels protrude a bit more than stock?

[condor]

Originally Posted by dhanushs

However, there was some dynamics and steering feedback changes noticed.

I think you should ask Viddy to check

The wheels dont look too out on your Endy. And I dont think you check FE - but with the wheels jutting out, FE will take a hit, I think

[Blooming Flower]

Originally Posted by BlackPearl

Could you please throw some light on choosing between spacers and negative offset alloys as I understand both would make the wheels protrude a bit more than stock?

If the length of the modified wheel track is same, either with the spacer or with the negative offset wheel, (assuming the tyre is same) the center of the tyre contact patch will be equidistant from the axle pivot. Thus with similar loading condition, for both the cases, the added cantilever effect will also be equal. Vide the attached diagram.



But assuming the normal wheel and the negative offset wheel are of equal weight, the addition of a spacer to achieve the desired track length will add the mass of the spacer in-between the geometry, and that might cause slightly extra stress on the wheel bearing and other relevant components. Also, I mentioned in the previous post about overall structural integrity of the entire assembly. A well engineered negative offset wheel is much safer option to obtain the same functional result, I think.

Of course, if the design of a wheel is to be retained for aesthetic purpose, and no similar design negative offset wheel is available in the market, the spacer method is the way to go!

[sharkashwa]

Keep in mind that with spacers, the lug bolts may need to be longer which also adds more bending loads and corresponding stresses to the components. Objectively speaking, if we want to increase track width, moving to a higher negative offset is more robust but that comes with added cost for new wheels rather than just spacers and longer lug bolts. In the upper strata of wheels, there are 3 piece wheels that are available (BBS is popular for these) that can be adjusted for different offsets based on the inner piece geometry (shown below).


Sharath

[Ravi Parwan]

I used to see M800 and boleros with their wheels installed backwards. Never knew they were using those as negative offset wheels. No parts added, no extra weight, objective of standout looks achieved. Haven't seen such installations recently.

Don't know how safe it was/is. I am assuming that there would be some penalty in terms of lower mating surface area between the hub and the wheel, and likely improper seating of lug nuts. What else do you think can go wrong with that kind of installation?

[FiestaST]

Yes, you started a debate. While most people shy away, I am with you on this as long as you are in spec.

The checklist I followed to add spacers on my Mini Cooper (low risk, weekend car) are:

1. Are the new lug bolts as long as the original?
2. Is the quality of lug bolts and nuts comparable to OEM?
3. Hub-centric (attached picture of my hub centric spacer)
4. Load ratings exceeding the OEM specs
5. Torque to specs

Although these are some measures, one cannot rule-out proper maintenance.

I retorque my wheels every 2000-3000miles and before every long drive.

I hope you have taken all the failures points into account and addressed them before adding spacers. Happy motoring.

[dhanushs]

Originally Posted by BlackPearl

Could you please throw some light on choosing between spacers and negative offset alloys as I understand both would make the wheels protrude a bit more than stock?

Hi,

What matters in suspension geometry and the corresponding additional loads due to the extended moment arm, is where the wheel center is located. With the spacers and the negative off-set wheels this remains the same, assuming the offset is the same.

However, the spacer is an additional part (additional chances of failiure), and if you can do away with it (negative off-set wheels), that would be the best option. I wanted stock-but-different looks hence the option of spacers.

Originally Posted by sharkashwa

Keep in mind that with spacers, the lug bolts may need to be longer which also adds more bending loads and corresponding stresses to the components. ...

Not necessarly. Properly engineered spacers are usually hub centric and need to be bolted on to the vehicle first, then wheels are bolted on the additional lugs on the spacer. Total 6 holes and 6 lugs in case of the Endeavor.

Originally Posted by man_of_steel

Very debatable topic, but I am with you on this! .
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.
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Good ones from reputed brands are pretty expensive and 2. I just love the OE alloys of the PS. They look so damn good to be stored away.

This is how a Pajero Sport or an SUV is supposed to look man. Great looking truck there

- Steering has become a bit harder noticeably. But the PS already has a hard one and doesn't affect me much. The steering box will be able to take the extra load I am sure
- Feedback and kickbacks from slight undulations on trails has become more noticeable but nothing that's unacceptable

Some pics of mine in the current form with the 30mm spacers front and back and tyres upsized to the next size. Even after some research and convincing myself to go with the spacers, the plan was to install them first and remove it at the first sign of any trouble. But now close to 7k kms later, I am loving the improved stance of the PS and the lugnuts are in the same torque where I left it to be. Also, no steering vibration at triple digit cruising too. There was a slight rubbing in the inside wheel cladding at full lock which was taken care of with a heat gun without cutting the cladding.

Excellent. This is what I wanted to know. Thanks.

Originally Posted by FiestaST

..
I retorque my wheels every 2000-3000miles and before every long drive.

.

Hi, whats the performance degradation/enhancement you see in the Mini after installing the spacers? And what is the off-set?

[Livnletcarsliv]

Personally, I am not a fan of spacers. I hate the wheels protruding out. It makes sense in an off-road vehicle or pick-up truck for the specific use case. But other than that, it's just taking a toll on the mechanicals (suspension, arm, brakes, weights, steering, handling, etc.) of the car. And its an inconvenience as well.

[FiestaST]

Originally Posted by dhanushs

Hi, whats the performance degradation/enhancement you see in the Mini after installing the spacers? And what is the off-set?

The offset is 15mm. It was mainly for looks. The steering feel became very firm (I like it this way), but I cannot tell if it was due to the spacers, new tires, suspension upgrade, or a result of this combination.