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-   -   The Tata Safari 2.2L Technical / Problems Thread (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/43377-tata-safari-2-2l-technical-problems-thread-364.html)

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Try using System D for 2-3 tanks, you will definitely notice the difference in the noise after like 5-10 seconds of pouring in the system D. Empty a bottle or two of system D in your car and the sound will come back to normal. Did this to my 85k run safari and now its above 100k and still going strong.

Most of the rattlings in a safari are due to various rubbers and bushes in the car wearing out. Just get all your bushes along with engine mountings checked. About the doors why dont tell the TASS to just tighten them instead of doing all the jugaad. Thery will tighten the screws and then hit the holder with a hammer pushing it in so the door is secure with the body.

iJeet,

I am running my safari with the tractor like noise for the past 2 yrs. no problems so far. I use system D along with every tankful, and that seems to work for me. If I don't put system D, I get the rpm fluctuating problem once in a while.

Get the sedimenter cleaned, and use system D for 2 tankfuls and see if that solves your problem.

The only test to determine the health of the injectors is the diamond test that TASS can perform.

The permanent cure to the tailgate rattle is to fix the sumo latch in addition to the safari latch, which acts as a support to the door, preventing rattles. I've posted pics earlier in the thread.

So much for TASS diagnostic capabilities :deadhorse. I opened the bonnets and found the source of racket, a loose nut near the power steering fluid container and worn out busher of engine cover. Actually worn out bushes were identified by the TASS while fixing loose nut. I thought that gunk is some kind of lubricant or something but they were melted bushes. each cost 6 INR.

Question. How common is melting engine cover bushes? is engine generating extra heat or something. Temp needle is always a notch beyond the center mark.

-Ijeet

O.T. I bought the OBDII scanner-bluetooth adapter type and I can say its money worth spending. I did not have the type to go through all the technical stuff but the device has capabilities to show a lot of data about the vehicle as well as error codes.

I bought it from here Ebay Lnk

I had a scare with the Safari. After a very cold snowy start, the engine sputtered and died.
Cranked again, and no use.
Tried hand cranking, but the bulb would not expand back. Hard with cold. Luckily vehicle started, and the rubber bulb became soft after hours of driving.

That said, right after the vehicle started again, I drove a couple of kms. At one point, around 2500rpm, the engine again started to die, service light came up and as I revved, the engine picked up rpm again.

I checked the error code, its P1253
OBD II manual tells me its P1xxx so its a mfr code not a generic code

Only other error in the system is P0000 which apparently means nothing.

So its the P1253

Could it be due to temporary fuel cutoff to pump due to icing? The night was fairly cold as the skies cleared up after snow. Temp went down below -5 degrees

Need suggestions from Safari guys:

Recently, my 3.0L Dicor has developed a strange problem, sometimes when i start the vehicle and press accelerator there is no response from the engine. The motor keeps on idling no matter how much I press the accelerator pedal.
Then, if I restart the vehicle the problem disappears. The TASC guys told me that the Pump needs tobe changed and the 3.0L pump costs 50,000 INR.:eek: There are no other issues, the pick-up is good, no extra black smoke. How can a pump die in just 1.4L kms? Could a DICOR pump be repaired?

Hi Guys,

From which model year did Safari come with the F-Type timing belt kit? Does a 2011 Jan/Feb manufactured Safari require a Timing Belt upgrade to F-Type?

Thanks in advance...

It looks to be some sensor issue. Either the accelerator, brake, clutch, or one sensor which i believe is attached to the fuel pump. Changing the fuel pump would invariably change the sensor, so thats what what the service center would be interested in..

Need some advice on changing the brake pads.

My car is at 51k on odo. I started getting slight squealing noise when i apply the brake. i hope its because of the metal to metal interaction. Decided to go for new brake pads and enquired the details and got the below response from the A.S.S

For 2.2 Dicor there are three different types of OEM brake pads, which one will suite my car will be decided based on the chassis number.

I believe there is no change in the dimension or any other parameter in wheels from all the batches of the Dicor 2.2 . Any idea why there are three different brake pads still ?

Looks like it would cost me around 3.5k + Labor.

I read somewhere in this same thread that the OEM TVS brake pads for Dicor 2.2 are available as aftermarket and they can bought and change it in some garage outside. this would cost around 1.5 k which is 2 k less than the A.S.S quote. if this is possible without any big issue, can someone direct me to the right accessories shop and a right garage to do it.

IMHO it has nothing to do with fuel pump - if there was something wrong, it wouldn't have gone away after switching off and then on.

This is a condition where the ECU thinks it shouldn't exit the Idle Mode. The reason could be anything that is causing the ECU to infer something is wrong - wrong sensor reading. Not that something is actually wrong with the sensor - just error bit is set by some internal diag / monitoring routine. Error bit is reset on a restart - when the internal diag / monitoring routines check afresh. This is most likely a loose contact - it will perhaps go away with disconnecting and reconnecting. The main question is WHICH sensor.

TASC guys should use the diagnosic equipment to check which sensor error bit is going on, whenever this condition occurs.

TASS had adjusted the clamp in the last service, still the rattling started back in sometime. so i had to go with this temporary fix.

Thanks, looks like this one should be a permanent solution. I will check with the SA when i go to TASS next time.

I have changed the brake pads bought outside the TASC and got them to replace it while my vehicle was still under warranty, I don't thing it should be a problem, my brake pads have now been on for almost 25k kms and are still ok, but may need to change them in the next 5k kms.

Thanks Lukeskywalker, May i ask how long your first OEM brake pads had life.

The OE brake pads that came with the new car lasted me some 60k Kms before I got them changed.

DerAlte is spot on. Nothing is wrong with the fuel pump. It is one of the sensors which is the problem.
With ECUs and electronics it should be a simple problem to solve. Error code, and you are done.
But you know what, this is Tata motors. And I think their R&D people do not like to think much. Probably they feel, just like driving the car causes wear and tear, thinking too much will cause wear and tear and error codes in their brain.

So the error code will tell you. "Engine speed does not match acc input".
I mean we know that genius.
I do not need an OBD scanner for that.
Good luck getting a meaningful answer. Tata does not know the case, nor do the TASS. So its hit and trial.
I suggest you start with the accelerator pedal. It cost 7000 though. So best bet is to pray its some rust somewhere, and simply clean the contacts.

Last but not the least, is there an error code? If not, then its party time.