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-   -   Skoda Laura: Problems & solutions thread (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/47047-skoda-laura-problems-solutions-thread-63.html)

My friend is having a Skoda Laura TDI 1.9 Ambiente MT (2008), around ~95k ran. Yesterday I was driving it near my home and all of a sudden the car just stopped. Stopped in the sense the engine was running, but the car was not at all moving in any gear. It was not switching off even after releasing the clutch even though gear was engaged.

While releasing the clutch in any gear, at the biting point I could hear some kind of grinding noise coming from left front wheel side. All the mechanics whom I contacted through justdial said, clutch is gone & take it to a Skoda service center. Since this is my friend's car and he is out of country, I towed the car back to my home. This car used to make tuck-tuck noise from the left front wheel while turning extreme angles and sometimes in straight stretch as well. It was diagnosed that left front wheel CV joint is having issue.

My friend ordered the part online, but could not fix it so far due to the fact that no work shop was able to remove the drive shaft bolt/nut and it is kind of jammed. Now my query is the car is not moving because clutch is gone or the CV joint?

Contact Mr. GAnesh - 9448911455 who has a workshop near Rajaji nagar and I have read in this forum someone mentioning he gives service in your location also. SO just call him and check with him. Better if you get it checked with some known mechanic then decide where to get that repaired.

My '11 model Laura TSI @ 26,500 Kms is at the Skoda service center for poor braking (am on non OE pads as my front pads failed en route to Ooty & I had no choice but to use Bosch make)
As per the SA they (Bosch pads) have about 10-15 K kms of life left yet I experience poor braking. The pedal is very spongy & no bite from the brakes.
I've got the disc's skimmed once & bled the system yet it did not help, now the SA wants to try the following:
1) try OE pads in front & see if it helps improve.
2) change brake master cylinder (as he suspects there maybe a leak, in the TD he felt the pedal sinking a bit)
Can anyone tell if if this is the right direction to proceed? or we are missing something here?
Pl help me extract the full potential from this lovely machine :)
Thx.

If you feel the same with bosch pads i doubt that would help.

If you have already skimmed the disk once this might be very well your culprit!

@raihan: My other drive is a Linea TJet and Laura's brakes are quite poor in comparison. I was told by different Laura owners that that is how the brakes are. I still suspect that it's possible that there are air bubbles in the ABS unit or simply not properly bled. See: http://workshop-manuals.com/skoda/oc...eeding_device/

If you can find a garage with that bleeding device described in the above link and have the bleeding performed to your satisfaction in your presence, that might help rule out improper bleeding as a reason.

Raihan another possible cause could be old brake fluid. When did you change it? If I remember correctly brake fluid needs a change every 3 yrs. a leak in the master cylinder would make the brakes hard. So I think that's not the culprit
Nareshov Laura's brakes have great bite. So I would like to politely disagree with your statement there :)

Thanks for the input guys. naresh, it's shocking to hear this, many members have remapped theirs to 200Bhp on stock brakes & I haven't heard of any complaints from the brakes (it's another thing that t-jet may have better brakes)

By the way I just got an update from the SA that after changing the pads the system is fine & that they tested it till 100 kph to be sure.(ya, fun at my expense!)
I Will take delivery & update this evening, fingers crossed.

Remember you have given the car in a Skoda service centre, Test drive the car properly first before you sign anything and take the delivery, These Skoda and VW guys are known to send back the car the same way we sent it to them.

I have a Laura too and I had the same problem as you some 3 years back. The problem was brake bleeding job done improperly by then skoda dealer St.Antony's Skoda. I went to an FNG (Euro car pitstop) with this problem - they performed the bleeding again correctly and I changed discs to brembo slotted ones and brembo pads as per their suggestion (mine were about due for replacement by then)

The car has fantastic braking now and since then I feel very confident maintaining 120-140 on the highways.

Cheers

I got the car back with new OE pads, new brake fluid & braking seems better - no more sponginess now, as the pads are yet to set in I hope it improves further in next 100 kms or so.

@ Games Goblin, how did you source the kit & how much it cost you? I could definitely consider this when it's time to change discs.

Another query, how can I make the car handle a bit more better?(without going the bilstien way) the sock suspension doesn't like driven spiritedly.
Someone(a former TSI owner who now moved on to a X3 :) ) suggested VRS springs, would this improve things on a budget?
Am on 195/65 Michelin P3ST by the way.

@v_2rahjo, @raihan: I was comparing my Linea with dad's Laura - didn't intend on making a general comparison. It could be that my Laura's brake bite is worse than the average Laura.

I spoke to another FNG today about the bleeding procedure on Laura and there too I didn't get any hint on the "Perform basic setting of the ABS control unit using the diagnostic unit -VAS" step. Still on the hunt to find the right place that'll include this step in their bleeding process.

Posting on behalf of a friend.

Model: Skoda Laura L&K 2008 DSG

Problem:
When Car Starts, there is an audible beeping noise and ABS Warning light comes on. From the Manual, we figured out the ABS has some problem. Certain times the gearbox will not shift up even wen the car redlines(eg: driving in 2nd gear or 3rd gear, and it wont shift up to 3rd or 4th respectively). GB gladily shifts down when needed. Changing the GB to Manual and shifting up and down works and after doing that, the problem goes away for some time. Only to have it occur again randomly at some time. Took it to the Skoda Service Centre. They said the fault is with ABS Sensors and replaced 3 sensors. Car Ran fine for 3 days and then started giving a new problem.

The beeping noise and warning icon appears in the instrument cluster as before, and the car refuses to shift up as well at times, but new problem is when all is well and I am driving happily at some speed, the speedo drops to 0kph and immediately, the car downshifts to 1st gear(Scary Feeling, happened while trying to overtake a Bus). Took it back to the service people and they say the problem is with the ABS controller now. Mechanic seems to be dodging my question, what part is showing error. He said I need to purchase an ABS Controller.

Solution Mechanic Gave:
Pay 80K for fixing new ABS Controller including Labour costs. Once installed the problem goes away.

Redirect:
I asked him, what is the part number of the part that has failed, He gave me this info 'Part Number - 1K0 614 517 BD'. Doing a google search shows that this is an ABS pump and ECU module combined (http://www.ecutesting.com/catalogue/...amc4517bd.html)

I asked him, if the problem is not solved with ABS Controller, what can we do next? He replied I have to change the ECU. (Not some thing I think is cheap).

Question:
Can this module cause the Gearbox to act funny? I can understand the ABS Warnings and Beeping noises.

On a moderately well maintained Skoda Automatic with DSG 2008 model, how high are chances of ABS components failing or ECU failing?

Hi Guys,

My remapped Laura is at the workshop (trying out this independent garage), and while doing the scan - 'engine fault code 4629 ECM power relay load circuit p068A00' has come up.

Could someone please help me out with what this means, and what to do?

P068A/001674 - ECM Power Relay Load Circuit: De-Energized Performance Too Early

Possible Symptoms:

1.Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON

Possible Causes:

Fuse(s) faulty
Ignition Switch faulty
Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Power Supply Relay (J271/J317) faulty
Power Supply Relay (J271/J317) faulty

Possible Solutions:

Check Fuse(s)
Check Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Power Supply Relay (J271/J317)
Check/Replace Power Supply Relay (J271/J317)

Note: A weak Battery may set this fault code. Insure the Battery voltage is at least 11.5v.

Source: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/P068A/001674 :)

Thank you buddy!! :)

Battery was recently replaced, so maybe it's from then?

Have asked the mech to clear it, and will drive around for a bit before scanning again to see if it comes up. Engine is running beautifully with no noises, prompt acceleration, etc. so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it's due to the battery.