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-   -   Honda Civic : Maintenance, Service Costs and Must dos (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/47997-honda-civic-maintenance-service-costs-must-dos-528.html)

Resonator it is.
It doesn't kill your car if its not attended for a short time. Once I had this issue that I climbed a stone and the resonator box broke. It was night and I was 900Km away from home. I drove it back home. Sound was indeed different, and I got my best ever mileage on my civic that time :D

The issue here would be with that piping also falling down, the engine sucks in hot air from the engine bay. This whole plumbing takes in the air from the wheel well if you have noticed, which is definitely colder.

It costs some 1000rs.


Else use this occasion to change over to K&N conical filters if you like :). For that anyway the current filter box, this pipe and resonator would have been removed!

My car is 100% stock, never made any changes, so a bit clueless about these things. Where can I get them in India? Order online from somewhere and get local mechanic to fix it? I am in Goa, so options are few here I think.

You can search for distributors in Goa.

Just take it to HASS and fix with OEM resonator otherwise. OEM resonator is about 1000

Thanks! Going to HASS tomorrow.

I'll need to get the resonator box, the pipe as well as the splash guard+ fender lining on one side, looks like. The entire thing broke apart and fell out! Did not notice missing fender lining earlier.

Will update with cost once I get it, should be useful for the next person whose Civic plastics fall out :D

Can you tell me how you ended up that way:D

Fendor liner is something like 600Rs when I changed. I lost it while negotiating a furious stream crossing!! stupid:

:D

Scrapes and dings over 8 years. Usually when its dark and I forget there might be sand banks or stones by the side of the road while parking, at really low speeds and with my attention on the ORVMs. Speedbreakers never gave me trouble, but Goa roads were a bit tough on me. I moved here 2 years back from Delhi.

Saw a bit of the splash shield torn and hanging one day. Next scrape, it became a bigger tear and knew I had to get it replaced. Before I could find the time to call and check if spares were available, it tore even more while climbing a speedbreaker and out fell fender lining, the box and the pipe in the pic. Picked everything up and drove home, all felt fine.

damaged my front RHS fender lining and smashed the windshield washer reservoir bottle and resonator box on a drive to Moorbidri. Had ordered all these parts 3 weeks ago and for all of last week kept getting calls from HASS saying all parts are here, please bring vehicle and get them fixed as they are on-order parts and we can't hold them in our inventory. Vehicle was sent to them yesterday only to be told - Sir, the resonator box that we received is damaged, the washer bottle hasn't come and the fender linings we've received are for the Old honda city. Dolts !!
I managed to source front fender linings from my local spares guy for Rs.180 each. have also asked him to source the washer bottle and resonator.

Poor Civvy, A wheel bolt bore the brunt of a grumpy Puncture man. I repeatedly told him the nut did not go in the correct groove, and he kept on tightening!! :Frustrati

The broken Wheel Bolt


The other half snapped away!!


HASS to the rescue, got the replacements immediately

Wheel Bolt and Nut


Wheel Bolt Part Number


Wheel Bolt Costs Rs 144


Wheel Nut Costs Rs 368







Fitting was a simple DIY.
1. Remove the tire
2. Remove the brake pad and caliper
3. Remove the Disc
4. Hammer the broken bolt out


5. Place the new bolt, and tighten it in, either by hammering or by screwing it to the nut with a spacer


6. Fit the Disc
7. Fit the caliper and brake pads
8. Fit the tire

All of 15 minutes and Rs 500!

First breakdown of my '07 Civic V AT. Just back home. Car stalled suddenly. I was not using car for almost 6 months and took her out only today. After hardly 3-4 km it jerked and stalled. Now it starts but there is lots of misfiring. On higher rpms its better. Called the local mechanic and he suspected fuel pump but its ok. Now he's saying mostly its due to accelerator sensor. Any suggestion guys?

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Could just have been stale fuel. So unless it recurs I will just forget the matter. My 2010 Civic was not fired up for six months. When I tried to fire it up, the battery was too low, recharged it, and no issues. I had a full tank before the long lay over. So it was the same fuel also.

Can stale fuel in talk contaminate over long period? My mechanic once told me to keep minimal fuel in tank because it can contaminate (with tank rust i guess) over long period. Maybe we should remove all old fuel from tank first and fill with fresh one before running car. Or at least dilute contamination by keeping minimal fuel while parking car and then filling fresh fuel before using it again after prolonged period?

There are two issues. The more volatile components of the fuel tend to evaporate over time. So the fuel will become 'heavier' and can be tougher to ignite.

As for the rust issue, I cam come up with a counter argument. If the tank is full then there should be less rust. Remember petrol and water do not mix.

Some time ago, my mechanic made mistake of adding local coolant + tap water. I don't believe on specs of local coolant + tap water is disaster on top of it.
So thought of making hands dirty and spent last weekend to water flush complete coolant system.

Tools:
- Drivol Maxpro Ice coolant - 2 litre (220/- each, total 440/-)
- Distilled water - 30 litres (~ 600/-)
- Towels

Why Drivol coolant: For a week I checked all branded coolants available in local stored, was searching for Ethylege Glycol, Organic (OAT) based, non-silicate, non-borate coolant (just like Honda OEM coolant). Silicates are nasty for cooling system over long run. Found that Drivol was the only coolant satisfying all needs + it's well know german brand.

Why 30 litres distilled water? Just radiator flush takes out ~3.9 litre of coolant, whereas remaining ~2.3 litre coolant is still present in engine block. I did not want to open engine coolant drain plug at home (which can be messy for DIY), hence thought of water flushing radiator multiple times. It took me 7-8 flush cycles to get rid of all coolant from radiator + engine block.

Procedure was simple, but lengthy.
- Drain radiator coolant by loosening drain plug
- Refit drain plug & refill with distilled water
- Run engine at idle for ~15 min(till radiator fan kicks in 2-3 times) (keep heater on at slow fan speed)
- Shut off engine and let it cool down
- Drain radiator coolant
- Repeat till you drain clear water from radiator
- (+ other things like reservior clean,etc)

Finally got all old nasty stuff out of cooling system and filled with fresh coolant + distilled water.

Few observations during this DIY
- Radiator fan kicks in at approx 100 degrees, confirmed this with OBD dongle + Torque
- When heater in on, keep fan speed low. High fan speed seems to cool down coolant temperature which might result in delay for radiator fan to kick in.


From now onwards I am thinking of changing coolant (just one time water flush, not multi flush like this) every 2 years. I am not 100% sure why Honda recommends 10 years coolant change interval. 10 years is very risky, what if coolant gets acidic in between (also my car is now 8+ years old). I guess manufacturers are increasing coolant change interval due to stringent law in western countries for coolant disposal. I think it wont harm to spend few hundred bucks + some elbow grease every 2 years to have cleaner car intestine.

I hope you are using blue colored coolant because that is what the Civic needs.

Does coolant color really matter? My understanding is that color is just dye, it does not define chemical composition of coolant. What matters most is chemical base and silicate/borate free-ness of coolant.

Yes, surely we should avoid coolants like pink/red, since they are not at all compatible with Honda. But my research says both green/blue color coolants will do for civic if they meet OEM honda formula, i.e. Organic, Ethlyene glycol based, non-silicate & non-borate.

Please correct me if I am wrong