Team-BHP (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)

-   Technical Stuff (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/)

-   -   Forester Owners: Servicing? (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/49888-forester-owners-servicing-12.html)

A friend had some trouble with the O2 sensor in his car last year.
In a nutshell, a replacement OEM O2 sensor is your best bet.

But before your hit the BUY switch, I suggest checking the O2 sensor for excessive carbon deposits, the wiring connector for corroded/dirty contacts, leaks in the intake/exhaust system, and also check if the sensor returns the correct resistance of 5ohms or more.

Also, since you have the ECM logger working now, monitor the LTFT (Long Term Fuel Trim) for high positive fuel corrections.

The rubber pad on my clutch had worn off and it used to come of the pedal. Finally bought the OEM pad from ebay for 9 USD but the shipping was 15 USD! Expensive for a piece of rubber.
BTW my driver side floor mat is worn off and there is a hole where I rest my left foot. Is there a cheaper way to source a mat (only this piece if possible)?

Finally replaced the air-fuel ratio sensor also known as the front O2 sensor on the Foz last week. Once the CEL code P0030 ("Heated Oxygen Sensor H2OS Bank 1 Sensor 1 circuit") was read from the OBD port, the problem symptoms directly pointed to a faulty O2 sensor:

• Drastic drop in FE to about 6kmpl.
• Rough engine idle, with some mild, intermittent vibrations.
• Sluggish performance at low (below 2000) rpm.
• Torque app showed O2 sensor peak voltages at 1.3V, well above the range of 0 to 1 Volt.

After quite a bit of research, got the Denso 234-9015 Air/fuel ratio sensor direct from Amazon.com. Denso is the OEM supplier for this component for Subaru. The Denso 234-9015 is a direct replacement for the OEM sensor with part number 22641AA280, applicable for several model year N/A Foresters, both 2.0 and 2.5lt models.

Got fitment done at Milestone Garage on Hennur road. I was in and out of the garage in under an hour! The difference is night and day. The CEL light has not re-appeared after 150km of city traffic and multiple driving cycles. FE is back to normal 8.x levels, low RPM response has visibly improved and engine is much smoother now. Torque also shows O2 sensor voltage to be within normal range.

The Denso 234-9015 looks identical to the OEM part except for the black wiring cover. Here's the old sensor:





And the new one:





A relatively easy and most effective fix. Perhaps just as significantly, restored some of my confidence in the Subie! Decided to execute another clutch pedal-play adjustment today - will post a mini "howto" soon...

Thanks for sharing the experience. Did the 'check engine sign' appear on the dash or was it spotted only after you connected the OBD system?

The CEL appears on the dash. It had been coming on and off intermittently for several months until about July when it became "permanently" on, coinciding with the steep FE drop.

I have been experiencing the drop in FE (from 7.5 to bellow 7kmpl) and I was wondering if the o2 sensor is the culprit. Since there is no engine check light coming on, the issue could be different.
Engine feels rough and the response is poor. Engine also feels strained when pushed hard. I also feel the throttle has developed a lag (is right drive by wire in Forester?).
Also, there is a significant power drop when the AC is on. Can a faulty AC system consume more power?

I don't think it's the O2 sensor, though I have no idea whether a faulty sensor is always detected and flagged by the ECU.

With similar symptoms, the other fix that did it for me was the leaky spark plug seals and it was Das at Trident that found the issue for me. This is pretty easy to verify. I'd first check/replace plug seals, plugs/plug wires, maybe the fuel filter. Don't replace the O2 sensor unless you get a CEL with code POO30 or similar.

Forester throttle is cable-actuated.

With AC gas running low due to the bad rubber o-ring at the low-pressure pipe <-> compressor joint, I am also starting to notice power drop along with a low frequency "whooomp" sound when AC is switched on. In my case, reasonably sure that a gas re-charge and new o-ring will fix this. Last year's recharge lasted far longer than I thought it would.

It is also said that clogged injectors could pose similar problems,
has anyone attempted to get their injectors cleaned? OR is it required to
to clean the injectors periodically?

@Guna: I feel 7-7.5 kmpl is what I get in peak hour traffic with AC on.
I suggest not to dive into any repairs unless there is a problem.

This is with the AC on in only about 30% of the time. I can clearly see a drop of at least around 1kmpl. Plus the engine feels rough. More then the repair, if it improves with some cleaning (injector, throttle body, air filter....) I would like to get it done. In fact last time I changed the engine oil without changing oil filter. Hope that has not created a problem.

Hey guys planning on picking up a used Forester. Need advice on differences over its few years of production, what to look out for, maintenance schedules and costs in Bangalore

Would really appreciate help from owners out there :)

@IshaanIan Welcome to the Forester thread on team-bhp and nice to see your interest in getting a Foz, I want other owners to Chip in and here is my experience so far.

1. Over its entire course of Forester made available in India there has been only few differences in the last year of its availability that is in year 2005 and its called 2005MY edition which had three spoke steering wheel and lighter ABS and missing AWD sticker on the back quarter panel. Other than that car remained almost same throughout its release
in India.

2. Make sure transmission is ok because that is the key
- Engine is usually good for easily more than 320,000 kms
- Suspension usually might need replacing at 1Lakh kms
- Timing belt needs replacing at 1Lakh kms
- Some users have done clutch replacements at 80000 kms so you need to
factor in these costs when you assess the vehicle.
- Based on user @Guna alternator and AC belts can be sourced from local
parts store (since belts made for some other Japanese vehicle fit the forester).

3. Car is pure Japanese with rock solid engineering so, with the help of Service manual
and a reliable mechanic you might not have to visit the show room for repairs.
And parts are usually just a click away and stock them when you can.

4. Consumables like Oil filters, Fuel filters, should be stocked.

5. When possible source local parts for wipers, spark plugs, bulbs etc.

6. Maintainance schedule should be 1 year or 10000kms and regular oil changes can be
done at the Shell bunks if you have oil filter and fuel filter in stock. Only 70000kms
service is a major one I think. And what needs to be done is clearly mentioned in the
Service manual and should give a good clue on what parts might be needed for the
future.

Other owners please do comment.

7. Be part of this thread always and subscribe to www.subaruforester.org
as that is what saves you time and money.

8. You need to be a driving enthusiast to own a forester if you ask me.

I request more experienced and mechanically inclined owners like @gotzuk @Icarusman
and @Guna to provide some valuable feedback.

Forgot to mention :

You might be able to pick up a used Forester if someone is willing to part with it in the
range to 5-6L I think

:Shockked::Shockked: I know someone who had his Forester in Mumbai for sale for nearly a year. Asking price = 2 lakhs. No one came. Finally went for a little over 1 lakh.

Pricing of the used Foresters is totally crazy and unpredictable.
I know someone who sold a well kept forester for over 6 lakhs in Bangalore. On the other and there are cars (may be not so well kept examples) listed for 2 lakhs and still no buyers.

One of my friend is wanting to sell his Forester for more than 6 months for 3-4 lacks. No luck yet........

Shubhendra