[ranabirghosh]

My opel corsa sail 1.4 has done 28000 Km being the 2nd car not much used. It never gave me any problem till recently (1) it started to knock during acceleration (at low gears too), then started giving me starting problem in the morning with only one cylinder firing. After several attempts it starts up, throughout the day gives no problem except knocking and losing power while accelerating.

As advised by service center I changed all the plugs, new HT cable set, new battery, new ignition coil pack (very expensive) and new air intake filter.

The car now starts at one go in the morning but I am still loosing power and there is knocking while accelerating. Also sometimes number one cylinder starts misfiring.

I am very particular about maintaining my car with regular servoces, oil change, coolant top up etc.

Now I am being told that the crankshaft rpm sensor is iether dirty or bad. I am confused. Please help.

[vdiatech]

Originally Posted by ranabirghosh

My opel corsa sail 1.4 has done 28000 Km being the 2nd car not much used. It never gave me any problem till recently (1) it started to knock during acceleration (at low gears too), then started giving me starting problem in the morning with only one cylinder firing. After several attempts it starts up, throughout the day gives no problem except knocking and losing power while accelerating.

As advised by service center I changed all the plugs, new HT cable set, new battery, new ignition coil pack (very expensive) and new air intake filter.

The car now starts at one go in the morning but I am still loosing power and there is knocking while accelerating. Also sometimes number one cylinder starts misfiring.

I am very particular about maintaining my car with regular servoces, oil change, coolant top up etc.

Now I am being told that the crankshaft rpm sensor is iether dirty or bad. I am confused. Please help.

HI, I had similar problems too. I coughed up a lot and now the car runs as good as new ( previous owner negligence , forget the car being a breakdown, i was on the verge myself !)

Can you ask your service centre to carry out a compression test ? It does not cost much and you can get better opinion on the forum based on those readings.

[ranabirghosh]

Thanks! I shall get it done ASAP and let you know the results - Ranabir

[ranabirghosh]

I got it done, here is the result summary:-

Cylinder one: 9.4 bar
Cylinder two: 9.3 bar
Cylinder three: 9.3 bar
Cylinder four: 9.4 bar

------ Original Reply -------
HI, I had similar problems too. I coughed up a lot and now the car runs as good as new ( previous owner negligence , forget the car being a breakdown, i was on the verge myself !)

Can you ask your service center to carry out a compression test ? It does not cost much and you can get better opinion on the forum based on those readings.

[silver_shadow]

Originally Posted by ranabirghosh

I got it done, here is the result summary:-

Cylinder one: 9.4 bar
Cylinder two: 9.3 bar
Cylinder three: 9.3 bar
Cylinder four: 9.4 bar

------ Original Reply -------
HI, I had similar problems too. I coughed up a lot and now the car runs as good as new ( previous owner negligence , forget the car being a breakdown, i was on the verge myself !)

Can you ask your service center to carry out a compression test ? It does not cost much and you can get better opinion on the forum based on those readings.

i'll wait for the experts to chip in, but compression in all the cylinders being within 20% of each other is considered normal. so no issues there. why don't you get a complete diagnostics done. that might give you a clear picture.

[ranabirghosh]

I asked a question regarding this car before. Since the solutions suggested did not solve the problem, I started replacing suspect components one by one.

I replaced the battery with a new one, ignition cable set, spark plug set, Ignition coil. Emptied the [COLOR=green][COLOR=green ! important][FONT=Tahoma][COLOR=green ! important][FONT=Tahoma]gas [/FONT][/COLOR][COLOR=green ! important][FONT=Tahoma]tank[/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR] got it cleaned and filled up with premium gas. Changed the fuel filter, air intake filter and also got the car serviced.

Now there is no sluggishness, pick-up problem or [COLOR=green][COLOR=green ! important][FONT=Tahoma][COLOR=green ! important][FONT=Tahoma]engine[/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR] knocking - but, if I do not start the car for more than 2-days, it simply refuses to start. After several attempts, one cylinder fires, then two then all four. I get a smell of unburned gas for some time, then every thing is fine. The whole day the car will run like new without a hint of trouble.

The computer warning light never lights up during starting problem. I took it to the GM service center who ran a complete diagnostic without finding out any problem.

By trial and error I found a round about way to avoid the problem - either start the car every morning whether I am using it or not, other wise if there is a gap of several days, simply turn on the ignition and wait for 30 seconds. Switch off wait for 5 seconds, then switch on again and start the engine, it purrs smoothly without any problem. It is weird!

Could any body please give me a clue about this peculiar behavior of the car and a solution.

Thanks!

[Jaggu]

Check your fuel pump first, seems its weak and not pumping enough. Hence after 2-3 tries she is firing up. Also get the fuel rail pressure sensor, rail and the injectors checked and cleaned. Also check the connections for the pump, dirty corroded connection can cause similar issues.

Ideally while starting switch on ignition, you will hear a faint whrrr (fuel pump working) which will stop once the pressure is built up, then crank and cars should fire up. No need for any throttle in FE cars.

Use normal gas, your car doesnt require premium brew. Instead use System G in every alternate tank fills, this was originally recommended by the manufacturer.

[ranabirghosh]

Thanks! I shall get it checked. I do use system G when I refuel. Yes the man at the pump also said since I use system G, there is no need for premium gas.

But one thing bugs me - if it is a fuel pump problem and not ignition problem, then why there is a strong smell of raw gasoline when the engine does start up with a judder with two or three cylinders fire up like it used to happen in old cars with carburetor over flow problems?

More over if I use the car everyday it runs and starts like a new car without the slightest sign of problem.
================================================== =

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Check your fuel pump first, seems its weak and not pumping enough. Hence after 2-3 tries she is firing up. Also get the fuel rail pressure sensor, rail and the injectors checked and cleaned. Also check the connections for the pump, dirty corroded connection can cause similar issues.

Ideally while starting switch on ignition, you will hear a faint whrrr (fuel pump working) which will stop once the pressure is built up, then crank and cars should fire up. No need for any throttle in FE cars.

Use normal gas, your car doesnt require premium brew. Instead use System G in every alternate tank fills, this was originally recommended by the manufacturer.

[silver_shadow]

Originally Posted by ranabirghosh

Thanks! I shall get it checked. I do use system G when I refuel. Yes the man at the pump also said since I use system G, there is no need for premium gas.

But one thing bugs me - if it is a fuel pump problem and not ignition problem, then why there is a strong smell of raw gasoline when the engine does start up with a judder with two or three cylinders fire up like it used to happen in old cars with carburetor over flow problems?

More over if I use the car everyday it runs and starts like a new car without the slightest sign of problem.
================================================== =

i know it's been some time, but can you give us an update?

and to your query - how do you know 2 or 3 cylinders only are firing? to answer the question - i am no expert, but i've seen in my ikon when the ignition coil went, there was no smell of unburnt petrol (surprising but i for one could not smell it). however just throwing this out - could there be cause for fuel leakage while it's going to the engine? that would give the smell of unburnt fuel obviously.

[ranabirghosh]

Originally Posted by silver_shadow

i know it's been some time, but can you give us an update?

and to your query - how do you know 2 or 3 cylinders only are firing? to answer the question - i am no expert, but i've seen in my ikon when the ignition coil went, there was no smell of unburnt petrol (surprising but i for one could not smell it). however just throwing this out - could there be cause for fuel leakage while it's going to the engine? that would give the smell of unburnt fuel obviously.

It is very easy to detect whether all the cylinders are firing or not. The engine judders, runs unevenly and if you remove and refit the HT cables from spark plugs one by one you will immediately know it. When you remove HT cable from a cylinder which is working the engine will run more roughly, but when you remove the HT cable from a non-firing cylinder there will be no change in engine performance.

At present I am in USA and contacted a forum called "Carpro" where if you gave a small donation of $10 experts give you advice. They advised me to keep the ignition switched on for a minute without starting the engine for three or four days. Then on the fifth day start the car at one go and see what happens. I phoned a friend back home requesting him to do it for me and give feed back. He said the car started fine on the fifth day. The guys at Carpro are suspecting a leak through which the pressurized fuel is going back to the tank if the car is lying idle for several days without the ignition being switched on. So I have to get it checked by GM when I go home on September 3rd. Thanks - you seem to be thinking on the same line.

[Jaggu]

Ok i missed the petrol smell part, so its related to fuel injector or lines. Check the fuel rail and then injectors, also check injectors for any minor leaks while unused (dripping).

Isolate the cylinder thats misfiring and check that injector first, in some cases gumming causes this and can be cleaned. In certain other cases you will have to replace it.

Similarly ask GM to check fuel rails thoroughly, the return path should be relatively easy to check.

Before all of this, just rule out the fuel pump first, just in case.

[ranabirghosh]

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Ok i missed the petrol smell part, so its related to fuel injector or lines. Check the fuel rail and then injectors, also check injectors for any minor leaks while unused (dripping).
============
Before all of this, just rule out the fuel pump first, just in case.

Thanks I shall do it when I go back from USA and get back to you.

[vdiatech]

the petrol smell can be due to the 'vacuum/charcoal cannister' down the fuel line. you will find it above the front right wheel, behind the archliner.

get the mechanic to remove it. it is made of plastic and i am sure, you will find some cracks where the hose is connected. that could also be the cause of petrol smell

[ranabirghosh]

Originally Posted by vdiatech

the petrol smell can be due to the 'vacuum/charcoal cannister' down the fuel line. you will find it above the front right wheel, behind the archliner.

get the mechanic to remove it. it is made of plastic and i am sure, you will find some cracks where the hose is connected. that could also be the cause of petrol smell

Thanks!! I shall get it checked when I go back to Calcutta on 10th September from USA.

[King413]

If any of you changing your Opel Ignition Coils please use Magneti Marelli instead of Malex's MLX-402 Coil. A few months earlier the coil had gone bad and while replacing first i bought the Malex Co. Ltd's MLX 402 coil and with in few minitues of installing it stopped firing on cyclinders, then very upset i asked my mechanic to get another one. After changing the second one also had the same problem. Upset that i lost out on 3200 for coils which lasted on few minitues. I asked what other coils are available. I found a different brand Magneti Marelli priced @ 2800, after installation the coil never fails for the first 1 km drive, ever since it is performing and fine.
So if any of you changing coils beware of what you buy.
Thanks
Prithvi