[devsoftech]

My car's clutch get very stiff when I drive non-stop for atleast 10 minutes averaging at 100-120 kmph - There's absolutely no gear shift, no clutch usage and no braking - best experienced in NICE corridor of Bangalore). When the need for a downshift comes (say at toll gates or changing lanes), I realise that the clutch has become a lot stiffer and on using it 2-3 times it regains back the stock feel. Is this behaviour asking for a preventive check or any sort of adjustment ?

[fordday]

In my 10 year old Ikon, I too have this problem. Moreover there is judder in first and second gear. It gives severe shaking if I start the car in 2nd gear from stationary without pressing the accelerator, something which was done quite easily till a year back. But every service guys that I have shown it to says my clutch is fine no need to replace. In a fix now.

[MileCruncher]

Originally Posted by devsoftech

My car's clutch get very stiff when I drive non-stop for atleast 10 minutes averaging at 100-120 kmph - There's absolutely no gear shift, no clutch usage and no braking - best experienced in NICE corridor of Bangalore). When the need for a downshift comes (say at toll gates or changing lanes), I realise that the clutch has become a lot stiffer and on using it 2-3 times it regains back the stock feel. Is this behaviour asking for a preventive check or any sort of adjustment ?

How old is the clutch. I get a feeling this is due to some problem in pressure plate.

Originally Posted by fordday

In my 10 year old Ikon, I too have this problem. Moreover there is judder in first and second gear. It gives severe shaking if I start the car in 2nd gear from stationary without pressing the accelerator, something which was done quite easily till a year back. But every service guys that I have shown it to says my clutch is fine no need to replace. In a fix now.

Judder means the clutch plate facing is not right. If the plate is ok, you shouldn't get a judder.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by devsoftech

My car's clutch get very stiff when I drive non-stop for atleast 10 minutes averaging at 100-120 kmph

Please tell us which car this is, how old, how many km etc. My thoughts on what could be wrong :

1. (Presuming it to be hydraulically operated) Minor slippage at high speed >> heat generation >> vapour formation in slave cylinder (something like brake fade) >> clutch becomes stiffer to operate >> pumping clutch bleeds out the vapour to some extent and clutch operation returns to normal.
   Suggestion: Change the clutch fluid if it is >2 years old.
2. (Either hydraulically or mechanically operated) Minor slippage at high speed >> pressure plate fingers change in temper due to heat >> difficult to disengage >> returns to normal on cooling slightly.

Originally Posted by fordday

...judder in first and second gear. It gives severe shaking if I start the car in 2nd gear from stationary without pressing the accelerator...

Why on earth would you want to do that? Good way to burn your clutch. Now that you appear to have burnt the clutch, you ought to require a change of clutch plate (and pressure plate if required) to sort out the juddering.

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by devsoftech

My car's clutch get very stiff

Hi,
By stiff do you mean that the effort to push the pedal increases, or that you have to push the pedal more (distance wise)?

Answers to SS's questions also please.

Regards
Sutripta

[_abhishek]

Originally Posted by fordday

In my 10 year old Ikon, I too have this problem. Moreover there is judder in first and second gear. It gives severe shaking if I start the car in 2nd gear from stationary without pressing the accelerator, something which was done quite easily till a year back. But every service guys that I have shown it to says my clutch is fine no need to replace. In a fix now.

Dude, never ever start the car/bike when in gear. The clutch has a purpose and make full use of that purpose.

To keep it short, when engine is cranked, the gear must be totally disengaged from engine. The severe shaking you are getting is because the gear is engaged and this damages the gear box. To find out more about this check for relative threads in this forum.

[dhanushs]

Originally Posted by _abhishek

Dude, never ever start the car/bike when in gear. The clutch has a purpose and make full use of that purpose...

... The severe shaking you are getting is because the gear is engaged and this damages the gear box. To find out more about this check for relative threads in this forum.

3.5 years - ~99,200kms and I'm still running my stock clutch. There is absolutely NO problem with my gearbox either - I start my car 'always' with clutch depressed and in gear.

[condor]

fordday : It gives severe shaking if I start the car in 2nd gear from stationary without pressing the accelerator,
_abhishek : Dude, never ever start the car/bike when in gear. The clutch has a purpose and make full use of that purpose.

@Abhishek, I think Fordday is talking about moving the car in 2nd gear instead of starting in 1st gear. I dont think he is saying that he starts the engine with 2nd gear engaged and clutch released. I dont think any of cars will start (engine) in that way.

[fordday]

Abhishek, you got it wrong, Condor is correct.

Let me give you the scenario. Speed around 30ish, 2nd gear, approach a speed breaker, speed down to near 0-5 kmph after crossing, now the car cannot carry itself off, need to slip the clutch or down shift to 1st gear. It wasn't so till a year back.

[devsoftech]

@SS - Its Dec 2008 SX4, 25000 kms done. My brake fluid was changed to some castrol synthetic one 3 months back. My braking got bit weaker (Can hear the screeching noise). And some good amount of fluid looks to be used up. Had to top it up. (so it looks like the fluid is burning up probably). Any pointers ?

[rajeshchand]

Originally Posted by devsoftech

My car's clutch get very stiff when I drive non-stop for atleast 10 minutes averaging at 100-120 kmph - There's absolutely no gear shift, no clutch usage and no braking - best experienced in NICE corridor of Bangalore). When the need for a downshift comes (say at toll gates or changing lanes), I realise that the clutch has become a lot stiffer and on using it 2-3 times it regains back the stock feel. Is this behaviour asking for a preventive check or any sort of adjustment ?

I had this in my Scorpio and the scorpio clutch experience is what forced me to buy an Automatic on my next purchase and I am loving every moment of it, I don't have to worry about getting stranded on a highway with a worn out clutch.

[mashmash]

I have a 2005 Esteem. On first start of the day, after warmup, when I start releasing the clutch on first gear with no pressure on accelerator, the car pulls normally. However after driving for a couple of kms, the pull by just releasing the clutch is not as strong. Is this normal?

The car is run 56k kms and the clutch plate, pressure plate and clutch cable were changed at 50k service. This behavior was present earlier too.

[anandpadhye]

Guys,
I am also experiencing this (though with lesser intensity) on the Tucson.
When I start the drive, the clutch is as light as any petrol car, after a few kms, say around 100 km or so the pedal becomes heavier...

Any clue?

The vehicle is at the service center and I have asked them to replace the brake fluid completely, but knowing them, I am afraid they will only drain around a liter of it from the slave cylinder and top up. They already did this twice over last 6 months but it did not resolve the issue.

[RM2488]

Originally Posted by mashmash

I have a 2005 Esteem. On first start of the day, after warmup, when I start releasing the clutch on first gear with no pressure on accelerator, the car pulls normally. However after driving for a couple of kms, the pull by just releasing the clutch is not as strong. Is this normal?

The car is run 56k kms and the clutch plate, pressure plate and clutch cable were changed at 50k service. This behavior was present earlier too.

Are you sure the engine has warmed up? It can take upwards of five minutes to reach operating temperature, the ECU will idle higher until then. This also has the effect of being able to pull the car more easily without the accelerator. On my Ikon, the cold idle is around 1200-1400 RPM, whereas the hot idle is around 800-900.

[anandpadhye]

OK, I got the entire brake/clutch fuild drained and it did wonders. The clutch is now as light as a petrol car. I drove around 400 km after the brake oil bleeding and I am delighed. Draining of the entire brake fluid (incluing ABS plumbing) should be done periodically and will save a lot of trouble and unwarranted clutch overhauls I think.

I am enjoying the Tuc like never before.

Note: The details are posted in my ownership thread of the Tucson, but I am updating here as it may prove useful to those who are facing similar problem.

Cheers!