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Quote:
Originally Posted by Akshay.Hemmady
(Post 4251841)
Came across a weird issue on my way to Pune. While driving through the jam packed ghats before Khandala, I felt the car's clutch getting stuck towards the end. There even came a point where I almost let go of the clutch but the car never moved forward and I could just hear the engine rev. |
Your clutch plate got overheated as jam packed ghats are very taxing on the clutch plate. Nothing to worry if everything is fine now. Get clutch bleeding done to be on the safer side as quality of the clutch fluid might have deteriorated due to overheating. :thumbs up
Quote:
Originally Posted by spookey
(Post 4254469)
Your clutch plate got overheated as jam packed ghats are very taxing on the clutch plate. Nothing to worry if everything is fine now. Get clutch bleeding done to be on the safer side as quality of the clutch fluid might have deteriorated due to overheating. :thumbs up |
@Akshay.Hemmady, hope you don't "ride the clutch". Thats a classic way to wear out the clutch sooner than normal.
Most people in India have an awful habit of starting the motion of the car in the 2nd gear (instead of 1st gear), by keeping the clutch half-pressed and accelerating. They also do such things during non-starting situations, eg. when not enough pulling power, instead of downshifting, many drivers stay in high gear and keep clutch half-pressed and rev the accelerator. These are all examples of "riding the clutch", and wears out the clutch faster. Unfortunately this is the way most driving schools teach driving!
As far as possible, the clutch must always be fully pressed or not at all, for maximum clutch life.
Quote:
Originally Posted by spookey
(Post 4254469)
Your clutch plate got overheated as jam packed ghats are very taxing on the clutch plate. Nothing to worry if everything is fine now. Get clutch bleeding done to be on the safer side as quality of the clutch fluid might have deteriorated due to overheating. :thumbs up |
Thanks for the tip, will get that done soon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vharihar
(Post 4254545)
@Akshay.Hemmady, hope you don't "ride the clutch". Thats a classic way to wear out the clutch sooner than normal.
Most people in India have an awful habit of starting the motion of the car in the 2nd gear (instead of 1st gear), by keeping the clutch half-pressed and accelerating. They also do such things during non-starting situations, eg. when not enough pulling power, instead of downshifting, many drivers stay in high gear and keep clutch half-pressed and rev the accelerator. These are all examples of "riding the clutch", and wears out the clutch faster. Unfortunately this is the way most driving schools teach driving!
As far as possible, the clutch must always be fully pressed or not at all, for maximum clutch life. |
I'd say I'm one of the lucky few who do not have that habit :) As of now since it is fine I am not going to fidget with it.
Guys re-iterating my request, if someone can post a picture of how the clutch system looks under the bonnet, so that I can inspect the same
Quote:
Originally Posted by Akshay.Hemmady
(Post 4256647)
Guys re-iterating my request, if someone can post a picture of how the clutch system looks under the bonnet, so that I can inspect the same |
Clutch assembly (system) will not be visible to you under bonnet as it is attached to the gearbox - lot of dismantling is needed to open up clutch assembly. Only clutch fluid reservoir which is attached to master cylinder will be visible to you under the bonnet.
There's no inspection needed if clutch is behaving normally and you are not facing any issue like low pickup/ play / slipping or burning smell etc so don't worry :)
Guys, I just got a used 2014 Verna and I'm looking for custom LED tail lamps.
Does anyone know a reliable vendor in Delhi?
In case you have got custom lamps installed in your ride, please post pics too.
:)
Thanks!
32 months and 90,000 kms :-
Yesterday when I turned on my car in the morning to go for some work, the odo had reset itself to 0. It showed "000000". Drove the car to work (some 40 odd kms) and the odo was running normally. It showed 000047. Then, when I was to go to back home, started the car and the ODO got back to normal. Seemed strange, but that issue did not occur today. Will take some photos and get it checked out if it happens again.
Anyone ever have anything of this sort happen ???
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Has anyone ever felt that the stock headlamps of Fluidic Verna is not that effective? I have been driving it for past 5 years now, but have never been satisfied with the output.
Anyone has made any changes? Any suggestion?
Quote:
Originally Posted by HalfOctave
(Post 4262074)
Has anyone ever felt that the stock headlamps of Fluidic Verna is not that effective? I have been driving it for past 5 years now, but have never been satisfied with the output.
Anyone has made any changes? Any suggestion? |
I have changed to osram night breakers which is simple plug & play after few months of purchase, since the stock was insufficient for highways. Had made a difference of around 25% over stock in the positive side. Happy till now.
Cheers
Quote:
Originally Posted by HalfOctave
(Post 4262074)
Has anyone ever felt that the stock headlamps of Fluidic Verna is not that effective? I have been driving it for past 5 years now, but have never been satisfied with the output.
Anyone has made any changes? Any suggestion? |
The halogens are ok in the city but seem seriously under-powered for a highway drive. Also, the high beam flashes dont effect the oncoming cars much.
I switched to bixenon projectors 3 months after purchasing the car. Right now, I am on my second projector setup. Night drives are not a problem at all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by HalfOctave
(Post 4262074)
Has anyone ever felt that the stock headlamps of Fluidic Verna is not that effective? I have been driving it for past 5 years now, but have never been satisfied with the output. |
Don't know about Fluidic Verna, but I face problem in our Elite i20 bought in Mar 2015 only if a Moron with "More Than 60/55W" Bulbs comes from Opposite Direction. Else There is no Illumination problem. I have 60/55W in our car.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chitta Pradhan
(Post 4262088)
...since the stock was insufficient for highways. |
Quote:
Originally Posted by Myth_sx
(Post 4262301)
The halogens are ok in the city but seem seriously under-powered for a highway drive. Also, the high beam flashes dont effect the oncoming cars much. |
Actually 60/55W feels insufficient only when the Oncoming vehicle has poorly adjusted Headlights or >60/55W Bulbs in first place.
Also almost all the drivers are lazy (or fear that the combination switch will wear out faster if the Headlight is switched between high and low beam every now and then) to switch between high and low beam.
This is my 1000th Post on Team-Bhp.
I am very happy that I could Celebrate my 1000th Post posting a nice post that promotes Use of 60/55W Halogens instead of using Higher Wattage Bulbs.
BHPians, wanted some information with regards to horns, I am looking to purchase a new horn (similar to that of Mercedes, BMW, Jaguar, etc.) for my Verna. This is not the same as the Skoda type ones (as they are commonly referred to by local accessory retailers) whose sound is a lot more different. I am specifically looking for information on:
1. What are such type of horns (BMW, Mercedes, etc.) called?
2. What is the price range roughly for the same?
3. Can it be installed straight away (without a relay), similar to the stock horn mechanism?
4. A decent vendor from where I can purchase the same (preferably online)
Thanks in advance.
Guys, I have a 2014 Verna Petrol, with 16 inch alloys. The GC is giving me problems since the road conditions at my place aren't very good. I am planning to fit 17 inch alloys in order to raise the ground clearance. Any suggestions/ caution regarding the same?
Quote:
Originally Posted by nda992
(Post 4281766)
Guys, I have a 2014 Verna Petrol, with 16 inch alloys. The GC is giving me problems since the road conditions at my place aren't very good. I am planning to fit 17 inch alloys in order to raise the ground clearance. Any suggestions/ caution regarding the same? |
Avoid upsizing if possible. The steering weighs up slightly putting additional load on the motor. There are chances of brushing against the outlying wheel well including the plastic cladding behind the front fender. Owing to the softer suspension, this is going to happen more often under heavy load.
The best size match i can figure out is the 205/55 R16 but then you will mostly likely face the same/similar issues as mentioned above.
Quote:
Originally Posted by nda992
(Post 4281766)
Guys, I have a 2014 Verna Petrol, with 16 inch alloys. The GC is giving me problems since the road conditions at my place aren't very good. I am planning to fit 17 inch alloys in order to raise the ground clearance. Any suggestions/ caution regarding the same? |
There are two ways to tackle the ground clearance:
1. Stiffen up the suspension.
To achieve this, use after-market dampers or Coil Spring Dampeners.
Refer this for the cheaper Coil Spring Dampeners.
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...uspension.html
2. Use Spacers & large tyres.
Spacers come with their own de-merits, and so do large tyres.
It's best to avoid these.
Quote:
BHPians, wanted some information with regards to horns, I am looking to purchase a new horn (similar to that of Mercedes, BMW, Jaguar, etc.) for my Verna. This is not the same as the Skoda type ones (as they are commonly referred to by local accessory retailers) whose sound is a lot more different. I am specifically looking for information on:
1. What are such type of horns (BMW, Mercedes, etc.) called?
2. What is the price range roughly for the same?
3. Can it be installed straight away (without a relay), similar to the stock horn mechanism?
4. A decent vendor from where I can purchase the same (preferably online)
Thanks in advance.
|
Guys some help here to answer my queries!
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