[jithin23]

Originally Posted by vishy76

I completely agree. Things that shouldn't fail have failed on the car which is quite disappointing considering there isn't much to go wrong in the first place. Thankfully, the most expensive fix was done free of cost under warranty (AMT Actuator).

Coming to driving style, I will admit the wearing out of the brake pads and discs is partly due to the way the car is driven. Chiefly driven in traffic with late braking. Secondly, the brake pedal feel might also be a contributor. The pedal feels very wooden and spongey for the first inch of travel, post which the brakes bite suddenly. Someone who isn't used to this might end up wearing the pads out very early.

The Kwid AMT now easily crosses the 5L mark, even touching 6 in certain cities. I would wholeheartedly suggest a pre owned Micra CVT or atleast an Ignis AMT. The Ignis might also be an AMT, but at least the rest of the car will turn out to be reliable. My first choice will undoubtedly be a Micra CVT only though. I don't find any sense in paying 5-6L for an A-segment hatch in today's age (even if I consider the current Kwid has all the issues I listed sorted out)

Thanks for the quick response Vishy76! This does help me to a great extent.


Yeah, I'm looking for pre-owned examples but to find a right priced vehicle with clean records in Bangalore is a huge task. Even I feel the same that spending 6L on A segment cars are not worth. Micra makes a compelling case. Will add that to my list. I was even contemplating for a used Polo GT TSI/Ameo TDI too but DSG failures+ poor rear seat space are keeping me away from it. Diesel AT's are very rare under 8L. One thing is strictly no Maruti though (my mom too is against going for a Maruti).

[Swarup5]

Originally Posted by vishy76

4 years, 40K km update



The jerking issues from the AMT persisted though. My car has been to two distinct ASCs and an FNG, but all three have failed to sort the issue out. The car randomly jerks while downshifting from 2nd to 1st, engages drive and reverse late sometimes and slips the clutch excessively in first gear leading wheelspin many a times and oft. I have no other choice but to live with this issue, since the next step demands replacing the clutch pressure plate, friction plate and release bearing.



Ananth

Hi Ananth,
I've been facing the exact same jerk when it downshifts from 2nd to 1st gear. However, this has only increased since the replacement of the oil sump cover ( which had got damaged). Upon reading a few articles, I have come to the understanding that it might be due to the gearbox oil. Wanted to know if you have gotten the GB oil changed anytime ?

The first 15k kms were pretty smooth going, however, nearing 20k now and i feel this car is sure not meant to age well. Might need to think of a suitable EV replacment soon if these issues persist .

[vishy76]

Originally Posted by Swarup5

Hi Ananth,
I've been facing the exact same jerk when it downshifts from 2nd to 1st gear. However, this has only increased since the replacement of the oil sump cover ( which had got damaged). Upon reading a few articles, I have come to the understanding that it might be due to the gearbox oil. Wanted to know if you have gotten the GB oil changed anytime ?

The first 15k kms were pretty smooth going, however, nearing 20k now and i feel this car is sure not meant to age well. Might need to think of a suitable EV replacment soon if these issues persist .

The GB oil IMO has nothing to do with this. These jerky shifts are because there is some sort of a mismatch in the amount by which the clutch has worn and the effort the actuator is applying to engage it. In a manual, a driver would obviously compensate for clutch wear by adapting to the clutch bite point to ensure gears don't grind and shift smoothly. However, this setting in the Kwid AMT atleast remains fixed throughout its life.

Irrespective of the clutch being worn 80 percent or 10 percent, the actuator applies the same effort to engage and disengage it and shift gears. This is what causes the jerks in my opinion. I also asked the ASC to adjust the clutch actuator cable, but they said they had done their best. Had to leave it in the end. Only a clutch overhaul can sort this issue out and that's not even a permanent fix.

I am fed up of this car. Overall performance of the line seems to have become very sluggish so it seems the clutch plates might not go more than 10-15K km more. That's a life of 55-60K km. Below average in my opinion, and that's not even the worst part about this car. I had postponed my plans to buy a car so that I could get a proper CVT or TC as my next, but these issues and the general manner in which the car is ageing means I am going to replace it with another AMT latest by next year June possibly. A Maruti Ignis Delta AMT 1.2 is the prime contender. Will update this thread after the TD is done.

Thanks

[padmrajravi]

Originally Posted by vishy76

That's a life of 55-60K km. Below average in my opinion, and that's not even the worst part about this car. I had postponed my plans to buy a car so that I could get a proper CVT or TC as my next, but these issues and the general manner in which the car is ageing means I am going to replace it with another AMT latest by next year June possibly. A Maruti Ignis Delta AMT 1.2 is the prime contender. Will update this thread after the TD is done.

Thanks

I am not sure if that is a good idea. An AMT will always have these problems. The better alternative is to do a clutch overhaul now and buy a proper AT car one year down the line. Or buy a proper AT now itself. The Suzuki AMTs are not saints either. Most of them suffer from this inconsistent clutch bite when it wears out. All you are getting when you buy a Ignis AMT is a car with a new clutch and same AMT technology. You still have to suffer your life with the AMT. I suggest dropping this AMT confusion altogether and getting a proper AT next year. For now, you can overhaul Kwid's clutch. I am assuming it won't cost you more than 30k to overhaul its clutch.

[vishy76]

Originally Posted by padmrajravi

I am not sure if that is a good idea. An AMT will always have these problems. The better alternative is to do a clutch overhaul now and buy a proper AT car one year down the line. Or buy a proper AT now itself. The Suzuki AMTs are not saints either. Most of them suffer from this inconsistent clutch bite when it wears out. All you are getting when you buy a Ignis AMT is a car with a new clutch and same AMT technology. You still have to suffer your life with the AMT. I suggest dropping this AMT confusion altogether and getting a proper AT next year. For now, you can overhaul Kwid's clutch. I am assuming it won't cost you more than 30k to overhaul its clutch.

I partly agree with what you are saying. However, there's a couple of reasons apart from the AMT which might make the Ignis worth it too. Here they are:

- Larger 1.2 NA 4 pot petrol has had a better track record being paired to AMTs than the smaller mills from Maruti which have been notorious in the earlier years especially

- The Ignis is obviously better built and better equipped in terms of safety than the Kwid. There's not an ounce of doubt about it

- The Kwid continues to spring up issues apart from the AMT too. It tends to stall randomly when the fuel level hits reserve (primary fuel pump seems to be the culprit), there's a very pronounced wobble at slow speeds despite having the tyres changed and the bearings checked and lastly, major rusting issues on the monocoque partly due to external impact and partly due to quality.

I am not at all confident of this car holding up beyond the 5 year mark. If I want to sell it, now is the right time I feel personally. Anyways, I will revisit this decision after having a TD of the Ignis AMT.

[raptor_diwan]

@vishy76, Was there any improvment on latest 2023 version of Kwid AMT? Was all the issue which most of them reported in this thread is resolved in latest version any idea? I am currently looking for one and now finalyzed between Kwid AMT & S-Presso and kwid look is more appealing than S-presso but S-presso engine and AGS seems to be is plus.

Confused between these both? Can you throw some suggestions on this.