Mini Travelogue - Goa in my BMW X3
Just got back from Goa after the first really long drive in my (not so) new X3.
Goa has always been one of my favourite destinations, and I have ended up visiting it at least once a year for the past few years. It was also the destination for my longest drive with my Superb, albeit way back in 2011. I had been keen to drive down to Goa in my X3 ever since I bought the car, but a combination of various other commitments and the unwillingness of my family to have another rushed “break” with two days of driving had prevented this from happening.
The opportunity for a Goa trip arose when some of my school friends planned a reunion in Goa (no, we did not study in Goa but any excuse to visit Goa is a good one). A couple of my friends were game for driving down, even if most of the others were for flying. Everything fell in place when another friend suggested that we get our families to join us for a few more days in Goa after the reunion - while spending 2 days of a 3 day reunion driving to and from Goa was not very attractive, 2 out of 6 days was a lot more doable.
So the final plan was as under:
Day 1 : drive to Goa
Night 1 - Day 3 : reunion with friends (what happens in Goa stays in Goa)
Day 3 evening : our families join us, and we shift to a more upmarket, family friendly destination
Day 6 - I drive back to Bombay with my family
A quick glance at the Bombay Kolhapur Goa thread suggested that the Nipani / Sankeshwar - Ajra - Amboli route I had used last time was ruled out as it was in a very bad condition. However, the Belgaum Chorla Sanquelim route seemed to be in good condition, and this was confirmed through conversations with some acquaintances who drive to Goa twice a month.
I started from home at about 4:15 am, and picked up my friends from Vashi by 5 am. At this time of the morning, traffic was still light, and we soon hit the Expressway where I could have driven at any speed I liked. However, having heard stories about radar based speed traps and heavy penalties for drivers crossing 125 kmph, I chose to err on the side of caution, and had a relaxed drive with cruise control on at 121 kmph. The ghat section after Khalapur was crowded as usual - mainly because of trucks marching in formation across all three lanes at 15 kmph. Post the Khandala exit, the traffic thinned out, and we were once again able to get onto cruise control mode.
Traffic on the Pune bypass was also relatively light, and by 715 am, we crossed the dreaded Khed Shivpur toll gate and decided to stop for breakfast. After a ~ 30 minutes break having delicious Dahi Misal with cutting Chai, we were on our way again.
The last time I had travelled to Satara (in Sep 2017), the Pune Satara Road was a complete mess - with 6 laning work on virtually all the way. Shorty after Khed, there were 3 junctions where this work was still on - but unlike the last time, we had properly paved 4 lane service roads, and hence we did not lose much time. Once we crossed the Anewadi toll plaza, the 6 laning was complete - and we were able to pick up speed. The road quality on this stretch was as good as anything you can find around the world. What I also liked was the use of acoustic tumbler strips laid horizontally across the carriageway ahead of junctions - they have been laid with increasing frequency as you approach the junction and clearly warn drivers of potential cross traffic. There also was a hard shoulder with what looked like a marked lane for cycles / two wheelers. If our drivers had some kind of lane discipline, this road would have been truly relaxing to drive on. Unfortunately, you still had farm tractors pulling trailers full of sugar cane in the left lane, slow moving two wheelers on all lanes, and trucks on the right lane - with the result that driving involved going through a mobile obstacle course. We were still able to maintain a consistent high speed on this stretch. Crossing Satara was also a breeze, there is now an elevated road through that stretch.
The Satara to Belgaum section is still 4 lane, and is a section I had not driven through since my last trip to Goa. Traffic in this stretch was much higher than I recall - and hence progress (particularly around Karad and Kholapur) was slower. But there were still long stretches where cruising at over 120 kmph was possible, and once my friend took over the wheel, there were points in time when we touched 100 (I leave the units to your imagination). By 1030, we ended up crossing the Karnataka border - the 220 km stretch from Khed had taken us 2 hours 45 minutes - a very respectable average speed of almost 80 kmph.
The Karnataka stretch of NH4 until Shankeshwar had been the fastest part of our journey in 2011. That is no longer the case, traffic has built up on this stretch too and the road surface has deteriorated slightly. We filled up fuel shortly before reaching Belgaum - the tank to tank mileage till then was 11 kmpl vs an indicated 11.7 kmpl on the iDrive.
We also grabbed a quick lunch, and then commenced our journey through Belgaum on NH748 (the old NH4A), SH 54 and SH 31. Driving through Belgaum was not as bad as we feared, but the road surface on SH54 was not great by any stretch of imagination. This brought back unpleasant memories of our journey in 2011 - where there were abysmal stretches between both Ajra and Nipani, and around Sawantwadi despite the Amboli route having generally been praised by regular travellers - and I feared that perhaps we were going to be caught out again between what regular highway users consider good roads and what I had been expecting.
Fortunately, my fears were unfounded. Once we moved onto SH31 and started ascending the ghat, the road surface improved markedly. The road running through forests on either side is indeed a great driving road - it is wide enough to overtake and pass oncoming traffic comfortably, and the slower moving traffic was considerate enough to let us pass without unnecessarily holding us up. We soon passed the Shiv temple at Chorla and the KA state border checkpost, and were descending towards Goa. The views towards the plains were fabulous here, and we stopped to take a few pictures.
Soon, we were on the plains (which is where the Goa state checkpost was located), and headed towards Sanquelim. The road now passed through a number of small villages, and reminded me a lot of Kerala roads. Post Sanquelim, there were two options, and we picked the southern route, heading towards Velha Goa and Panjim. We crossed the Mandovi over a steel truss bridge, and shorty thereafter joined NH748. The NH 748 stretch towards Velha Goa has been largely 4 laned, and hence we were able to pick up speed once again. We shortly reached the junction with NH66 where once again 4 laning work was in full swing, and a massive new bridge over the Mandovi (including 4 cable stayed sections) was under construction. We crossed over on the old Mandovi bridge - but I must say that if the work on the MH section of NH66 is progressing at the same pace, within a year or two, driving down NH66 (yes, the Dil Chahta Hai road) will become a very viable option.
We reached Candolim by 4 PM - the total door to door drive time was 10 hrs 15 minutes for 620 km, with 11 hours travel time (halts and all) from Vashi.
I must say that this drive made me appreciate the virtues of the X3 even more. The car was extremely stable at high speeds, always had enough power to accelerate quickly when needed, and was a revelation on the twisty sections of the Chorla ghat. I was in the rear seat for parts of that section (for the first time since I bought the car) and never once felt that the car exhibited too much body roll. Lots of us on Team BHP (including me) have dissed the 20d engine as being unrefined and underpowered - but it was anything but. Engine noise disappeared at highway speeds, and power even in Comfort mode was more than adequate.
Goa was great fun as usual - I relived my teenage years with friends and then played the role of dutiful dad and husband once my family joined us.
Our return journey saw us leave Bambolim at 830 am, reach the McDonalds just before NH48 in Belgaum by 11, and get to a friend’s place in Poona by 5 PM (with about 1.5 hours stoppage time). My wife paid the ultimate compliment to the roads at Chorla - she said that they reminded her of our Blue Ridge Drive in the US this fall. That might be an exaggeration - I could take the twisty bits at 60 kmph here vs 50+ mph in the Blue Ridge. But directionally, it was a correct statement.
The overall mileage we got was great as well - 11 kmpl from Bombay to Belgaum; 9 kmpl for Belgaum - Goa - Belgaum (including local driving in Goa), and 11.3 kmpl from Belgaum - Bombay.
Overall, it was a great holiday and has vetted my appetite for more such trips. Will leave you with some pics from Goa.
