The return journey from Dholavira to Dhordo was fairly smooth - roads were narrow but the surface was good, and most slow moving drivers were decent enough to yield where possible to let faster cars through.
The tent city itself was huge - we kept driving through a public area before finally reaching the location where we could park, unload our car and hand it over for delivery to our tent.
Our tent was nice - not super luxurious but clean and spacious, with air conditioning (which proved necessary the next afternoon even in winter) and a clean attached bath area. The tent was part of a cluster, with a cluster head available to attend to any needs and to arrange golf carts which shuttled folks around the campus.
Our Tent Part of this Cluster
Our cluster head also gave us an invaluable tip - while night trips to the Rann to see it in moonlight are usually only on the full moon day, there was a special trip on that day and he signed us up for it.
We were quite tired by this time, and decided to head out for dinner as soon as possible. Dinner was great - even if a week full of Gujarati meals was starting to get to us.
The Dining Area
Post dinner, we headed out in buses for the Rann. The Rann by moonlight was quite magical - in a city with all the artificial light pollution, we never realise how bright the full moon (or even a mildly waning gibbous moon) can be. Yes, this is shot on an iPhone, but when you see a shadow, it tells you how bright the moonlight was.
The next morning, I was up early for a trip to see sunrise at the Rann. The dawn lights were nice, but there was some smog / fog, and the sun itself could be seen only once it was someway up in the sky.
The only downside of the Rann is that there isn’t much to do during the day. The air conditioned tents came in handy, and we spent the day reading, shopping and getting a nice massage.
That evening, we signed up for a bicycle ride to the Rann to see the sunset. Our group was a small one - just one couple apart from our family. Sunset at the Rann was outstanding once again. There were also plenty of activities out there - people flying in motorised gliders (which looked extremely unsafe to me), musicians, dancers and spectacular views.
The next morning, we were up and ready quite early but by the time we finished breakfast and were ready to leave, it was past 8 am. We bid farewell to Kutch in a somewhat poignant mood. An hour and a half later, we crossed Bhuj, and hit the highway heading towards Bachau. We had made good time till this point, and thought that this is highway stretch would be the last relatively narrow road we would face.
We made reasonably swift progress till Bachau and turned towards NH41, which had been among the best stretches of road on our way in. The map was showing some Red up ahead, which surprised me a bit. A hundred metres later, we realised something was wrong, since both cars and trucks were turning around. We saw a cop and asked him what was happening. He told us there was a trucker’s agitation (later learnt it was to do with the Indian Penal Code amendments) and we should turn around too. The map was now useless, and we followed the traffic for a while into village roads, asking locals for the way to Ahmedabad. They told us that the series of trails we were taking would get us to the 4 lane road leading to Ahmedabad. This diversion did not add more than 10 km of distance but cost us more than 30 minutes. But we finally reached NH27, the famous East West corridor, and were able to pick up speed.
While planning the route from Kutch, I had spotted a food court called Sir Jadeja’s Food Mall on the GH SH7, and planned to stop there for lunch. But given we were running late and that was still about an hour away, we stopped at another Food Mall on NH27 and picked up a lunch. The 130 km stretch on highways after Bhuj had taken us 2 and a half hours and put us well behind our schedule for driving into Baroda.
Shortly after lunch, we hit the SH7 and were now able to pick up speed. Sometime after we had been on this road, Google Maps told me it had found a faster route which would save me 6 minutes and asked me to divert from this highway and take another route to Baroda which would not hit Sanand and Ahmedabad. I thought about it for a while but decided that would be risky and dismissed the suggestion. I suspect that was a bad decision - by the time we crossed Sanand, traffic had become extremely bad, and we crawled our way through the city. I could also see that the stretch from the road we were on to the Baroda Expressway was showing dark red at one point. When we turned at the sign towards Bombay, we realised why. One of the bridges over the Sabarmati was closed and 4 lanes of traffic was merging into a single lane on the bridge that normally takes traffic the other way. The map showed a 10 minute delay initially, and may be it was my poor and conservative driving but I had lost another 20 minutes by the time I entered the bridge. Progress thereafter was in relatively smooth traffic and we soon hit the expressway. On our way in, the expressway had been very smooth. But on a Saturday evening that was not the case. You had slow moving trucks creating a series of chicanes, lots of impatient drivers using the hard shoulder to overtake, and the entire drive was slow and stressful.
Net result, it was 7 PM by the time we reached our hotel. The drive of 525 odd km had taken us 10:30 hours door to door, more than 1 hour more than the map estimate (my assumption on highways is usually that I can compensate for our halts which added up to about 1:30 minutes on this trip).
The next morning, we set out at 530 am, heading home to Bombay. There was material truck traffic between Baroda and Ankleshwar, and there didn’t seem to be any open restaurants to halt for breakfast. Ankleshwar was as smelly as ever, and we decided we would not stop there and finally halted at a place that was almost all the way to Navsari for breakfast. Roads in the rest of Gujarat were good and we had made very quick time till Virar. But after that, there was concreting work going on, with all the flyovers having only one lane open, and traffic was crazy. I followed some drivers on the extreme left lane, and realised that avoiding flyovers was the right way to go. Except when you get close to the Bassein creek, where I had to slice across the traffic to get to the right lane to take a bridge heading towards Bombay which was relatively empty, while the bridge on the left which let people take a left onto Ghodbunder Road and Thane was insanely crowded.
Progress post that was smooth and we reached home just before 2 PM. It had taken us almost as long from Baroda to Bombay as it did from home to Ahmedabad on the first day.
The observant would have noticed two red warnings on the MID. As mentioned earlier, the condition based service warning saying a Rear Brake Pad service was due in 2000 km came on shortly after we left Bombay. This distance to service fell very rapidly. I checked a number of online forums and concluded that it was safe to continue - what I read was that the Red Warning light comes on when there is about 15% pad life left, and so based on the distance covered since the last Brake Pad replacement, I concluded I would have about 2000 km range left once it came on. The Red light came on just as we were leaving the Rann.
But my conclusion also seemed to be borne out by the above message in the instrument cluster. I did not drive very slowly but did maintain a larger margin of safety on this journey.
By the time we reached home, the MID told us the service was a 1000 km overdue.
Sent the car to BMW Infinity on our return and got the brake pads replaced and disks skimmed for about ₹ 27 k.
Our fuel efficiency during this journey was the best I had experienced in this car, about 12 kmpl consistently.
Overall, it was a great experience and makes me more convinced than ever that long road journeys are doable in today’s India - even for folks like us who are used to comfort. We have now covered 58,500 km, and are getting close to the Big Six O.
Today is the 7th anniversary of our getting the car - and I must say I was blessed to have picked it up.
Until next time.