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Excellent observations and points. A great read! I am a fellow Thar CT D-AT owner from Hyderabad and I am an avid reader of your wonderful Thar journey.

I recently read in your post that you have good contacts in Mahindra Service Centres. I have been getting my Thar serviced and looked after at VVC Mahindra and I am extremely dissatisfied with them.

Our Thars are very temperamental by design and mine, generally likes to go one step ahead. Amongst many issues, its' axle-related issues have been troubling me for almost a year now.

The Front axles make a loud squeaking noise over any road imperfections and speed breakers and this becomes very annoying and alarming. I have tried to get it sorted at the service center but all in vain.

It would be great if you can help me connect with teh contacts of yours in A.S.S so that I can get the exorcism done on my Thar and get rid of the noisy axle demons. Also, can you also share which one of the service centers of Automotive Mahinda you visit?

Good to know the AVO worked our great!

I have tried a few dozen OE cable + phone combinations. The best I got was with a non-OE braided cable (6"), when AA stayed connected for 4.5 hours. Else there will be a disconnect around 1.5 to 2 hours invariable :Frustrati

This, and the lack of a security system are my only issues with an otherwise brilliant vehicle!

We spoke over PM - did you get a chance to take it to Automotive Mahindra?

Hi, Thank You for checking up. Yes, the upcoming weekend is my scheduled check for the same. Hope this axle noise issue gets sorted out. If all this wasn't enough, two new issues came up in the past 15 days- My left power window started malfunctioning and the window won't roll up, another was that my left headlight bulb gave away and stopped working for the 2nd time in less than 3 months (that too in a 13-month-old car!). Got the bulb replaced from A.S.S and had to shell out 480 Rs each time as the bulb isn't covered in the warranty.

Speaks volumes about the shoddy quality of Mahindra cars. In less than 13 months my Thar has seen- Disc brake screeching noise issue, Front axle squeaking issue, 2 fused headlight bulbs, left power window malfunction !:Frustrati all the tantrums notwithstanding, I love it a lot for all its experience of joy and abilities! Its good that due to knowledge from our forum, I was prepared for these tantrums in Mahindra cars but yea, the unsuspecting buyer will find ownership quite challenging due to the overall reliability of electronics and some mechanicals.

One of the first things I did was to change the stock lights to Osram Night Breaker Laser - which have much better illumination than the stock bulbs. So am not really sure if the stock bulbs are prone to going kaput so often, but it does sound like an issue coz bulbs should die so often!

Make a list of all these in the work order, let them check. Will be useful in the future...

Hi ph03n!x, sorry to read about your accident but happy that your dashcam saved you from all the hassles.

Wanted to take a feedback about the Redtiger T27 mirror dashcam.

* How is the glare/reflection on a bright sunny day and during night time especially from the rear? Can you share a photo of the view from the driver seat?

* Does the 2.5K rear camera make a difference compared to 1080p? Is it ok to fix it inside the rear window?

* I was also considering the Wolfbox 840H (which has only 1080p rear) since it has Wifi connectivity.

Any reason why you opted for the mirror dashcam over other normal dashcams?

Thanks!

Hi Kelly66, I position the dashcam such that it's slightly tilted towards me, with the cabin light just visible (if it's on) at the bottom edge's approx. mid. As this is a mirror-y LCD screen, high-beam from vehicles behind me will reflect on to my eyes (like any IRVM) if I position it traditionally, and the screen becomes barely visible. Let me share a photo shortly.

The T27 is a 4K (front) + 2.5k (Rear) cam. The quality is definitely better than 1080p rear, and things are more 'visible' with a clean lens.

For the Thar, I don't know if it can be fitted in the internal glass (considering its a vertical windshield).

WiFi + app connectivity is one BIG negative for this camera, I carry an additional SDCard with me to swap out in case of an incident (or even something interesting like off road stuff). The other negative is that it does not lower the rear camera feed like the 70mai used to, just shows the guidelines overlay - I have set it to a lower view manually such that I can see both the test traffic as well as have a meaningful reversing view

I preferred the mirror dashcam coz I wouldn't need the rear view camera accessory. If you already have a year view camera that displays the view in the infotainment, please get a normal dashcam - just make sure they are compatible with the verticalish windscreens the Thar has, some of them are not...

Thanks for the quick reply. See linked video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=823doPGMu80&t=141s

At around 8 min mark he shows how the rear camera zooms in when you put it on reverse gear. Maybe some setting adjustment is needed.

Super exhaustive ownership thread this one is :)
All thanks to your post(s) that I have no questions by the time I finished it.
Inching closer to owning my dream SUV soon, waiting for few more launches and if nothing else attracts me - Thar has always done that in last so many years.

One question though: What happened to your Ladakh trip? or did I miss it in between your updates? if you have a post on that please share the link.

I am hardwiring my dashcam (wolfbox 840h) with the hardwire kit they sell. For the cam to work in the park mode (does 1 fps recording when parked), it needs to be hard wired such that:

• one wire gets ACC power
• second needs Batt (constant supply from battery even when keys are out and vehicle locked)
• third is the ground

I think am going to use F64 for the ACC power but am not sure which one to tap for the constant battery power. Any guidance is much appreciated.

For the continuous battery supply, I have used the cabin light's fuse (F36) - works perfectly!

I was wondering if that would be the safe bet but thanks for confirming, so F36 it is! BTW, do you happen to know what MBFM ACC F64 is actually for?

I just recently installed the Wolfbox 840H and its been good so far. I installed the rear camera on the inside (glued it to the underside of the brake light) and it works just fine, except when it rains. But if it rains, you gonna have to deal with keeping the cam lens clean anyway - so instead of having to clean the lens I need to wipe clean the rear glass. There is not much of a perceptible difference in the image quality that I noticed. I had initially thought I would start off with mounting it inside and then move it outside if that didnt work; guess am leaving it where it is now.

The best part is the WiFi connectivity! And it works even better if you have a spare phone or ipad.

Hope that helps.

The BFM in MBFM is body function module, M + I'm guessing - is Mahindra.

The other fuse option to tap for power supply when the key is on (running or ACC) will be the power window fuse...

I've gotten an 840H too, will be switching to it shortly - good to hear it's a worthy buy!

I guess the Power Window F61 fuse is a safer bet because there doesn't seem anything else drawing power from it. Who knows what all that MBFM is powering?!

Do post your reaction on the 840h once you have had some time to play with it. Last few days I have been doing some driving in direct rain and in that case the inside mounted rear cam is not gonna be much help. So if you expect to drive in the rain a lot, you must install it outside.

Be mindful of the fuse rating though.. I'm not in town to check this in my Thar, but I picked the MBFM ACC coz it was 5amp rated, while power window fuse was 10amp or 20amp rated - and the fuse in the hardwire kit was a 5amp for the dashcam, not sure if piggybacking it on a higher rated fuse will have any adverse impact.

Also, proof in the pudding - I've been using these two fuses for 4 years or so now, no issues!

Thats a good point! The Fuse in the HW kit for WB 840H is 15A. But the way I thought about it is that the load can draw as much power it needs (upto 15A in this case) but no more than that. In effect, I thought that the 20A socket for Power Windows F61 is designed to deliver upto 20A for the Power Window circuitry, but no more than that. Thus, if I add the WB which is a 15A max load, it can draw upto 15A but no more (restricted by the fuse in the fuse tap).

But then, the constant power BATT terminal cannot be fuse tapped into the Roof Light which is only 5A, so the WB wont be able to draw any more than 5A from F36?

I think I dont know what am talking about now LOL ... here's a picture of the fuse box layout.

I need an auto electrical expert to weigh in on this before I burn shit down :)