[Raps]

Hi,

I wish you more happy miles in this car. Recently I bought LT model and yet to experience a long drive which I plan to do this weekend.
I have a query about the change in bulbs, did you add relay or just changed the bulbs. Somewhere I was reading about relay not required. Can you share your thoughts on this.

[sylvan]

Relay is not really required. I have Phillips 100/90 that costs around 400rs and they are good enough. The light throw is far better than what used to come with the stock ones. I have seen cars running with 150/100, but thats not really required unless you want to blind the oncoming vehicles.

[MAS]

Changing just the bulbs to 100/90 is very dangerous. You could blow up the fuse anytime and will also weaken the electrical system. It is advisable to use a relay when you upgrade the bulbs.

[Poitive]

Originally Posted by sylvan

I was only thinking about hardening the shocks as that would improve the handling, but I will lose out on the drive comfort that I now get.

Firstly, than you for putting up the ownership thread. Ownership threads of the Optra have helped people like me in taking the final plunge mate .

About the handling, have you experimented a bit with different tyre pressures? The Optra is now usually being delivered with Apollo Acceleres, which are quite soft and IMO do better with slightly increased tyre pressure. Especially in the front.

Originally Posted by sylvan

Recent modifications
Upgraded Head lamps to Phillips 100/90

~~~~~~~~~~

Planned upgrades

By Jan 2012
Change HU to Pioneer AVH-P3350BT
MMI Vx140s

By Jun 2012
Change alloys and upgrade tyres to Michelin Primacy LC

Did you go in for the ICE upgrade mate?
Any plans of changing the speakers? It seems to be difficult to get 5.25" speakers for the rear.

IIRC, the Michelin Primacy LC are pretty soft tyres. With the already soft nature of this car's suspension, you may want to reconsider.

Originally Posted by phenomonstar

I got mine delivered day before yesterday, and clocked just over a 100k already. This, even when my office and home are 2 km apart!
It seems like i am just looking for an excuse to take it for a drive.

Oh! I know that feeling. One just looks for an excuse to get behind that wheel. Especially at night.

I've another thread on here somewhere about my disappointment with the Fluidic Verna. I sold mine off within 25 days of purchase.

While these cars feel a bit similar in lower speeds (say upto 60kmph) with their softer suspensions, it is after that that they just do in opposite directions. Verna tends to feel totally unsettled over undulations, whereas the Optra's well tuned suspension shows it mettle. Composure par excellence. No wonder you did what you did!

Originally Posted by sylvan

Does anyone know about how effective the coil spring adjusters are for magnum. I am looking for a solution to reduce the underbody scraping as much as possible.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...uspension.html

I am not sure I would want to tamper with this suspension, however since the front of the car does scrape occasionally, one may feel pushed to consider at some point. If you find any solution, please do update, Sylvan mate.

Originally Posted by sylvan

Relay is not really required. I have Phillips 100/90 that costs around 400rs and they are good enough. The light throw is far better than what used to come with the stock ones. I have seen cars running with 150/100, but thats not really required unless you want to blind the oncoming vehicles.

Originally Posted by MAS

Changing just the bulbs to 100/90 is very dangerous. You could blow up the fuse anytime and will also weaken the electrical system. It is advisable to use a relay when you upgrade the bulbs.

I would go with MAS on that, mate. With 100/90 one is drawing more current from the system, than what the car comes with. It may lead to a heated component (wire, holder, etc) and result in some nasty results. A relay would act as a protection by turning off the circuit, from what I understand. Even though you seem to be running without trouble, do reconsider.

[optimist]

Originally Posted by sylvan

Relay is not really required. I have Phillips 100/90 that costs around 400rs and they are good enough. The light throw is far better than what used to come with the stock ones. I have seen cars running with 150/100, but thats not really required unless you want to blind the oncoming vehicles.

Originally Posted by Poitive

I would go with MAS on that, mate. With 100/90 one is drawing more current from the system, than what the car comes with. It may lead to a heated component (wire, holder, etc) and result in some nasty results. A relay would act as a protection by turning off the circuit, from what I understand. Even though you seem to be running without trouble, do reconsider.

The existing relay would be rated just sufficiently! The Higher wattage will over a period of time damage the relay if not the wires. A separate wire capable of this current along with a fuse from the battery till the more powerful relay will be required. Also I remembering replacing my bulb holders in an earlier old gen vehicle when the bulbs were upgraded to 100/90 from lower powered ones as a result of burnout's and resulting loose contact.

Originally Posted by Poitive

About the handling, have you experimented a bit with different tyre pressures? The Optra is now usually being delivered with Apollo Acceleres, which are quite soft and IMO do better with slightly increased tyre pressure. Especially in the front.

Originally Posted by Poitive

I am not sure I would want to tamper with this suspension, however since the front of the car does scrape occasionally, one may feel pushed to consider at some point. If you find any solution, please do update, Sylvan mate.

Please read keyur's experience with stock tyres and pressures.
The front sidewall looks deformed under the recommended 29 psi. I am using 34(warm) on Appollo and this is much more responsive to steering input and acceleration. Recently it handled a country kacha along with 100 jeeps well enough without scrapes. What will be scraping normally is the tow hook at the front which you can possibly ignore.

[sylvan]

Originally Posted by Poitive

About the handling, have you experimented a bit with different tyre pressures? The Optra is now usually being delivered with Apollo Acceleres, which are quite soft and IMO do better with slightly increased tyre pressure. Especially in the front.



Did you go in for the ICE upgrade mate?
Any plans of changing the speakers? It seems to be difficult to get 5.25" speakers for the rear.

IIRC, the Michelin Primacy LC are pretty soft tyres. With the already soft nature of this car's suspension, you may want to reconsider.

I have tried with pressures from 29 to 34. Now settled with 33 on highways and 32 in city. Gives me mileage of 12-13kmpl in city and 15 on highways.
Will have to do another round of research about car tyres
I have changed the HU to kenwood 5343u.
Next is replace front speakers to JBL and install oval speakers at the rear. I have a got a quote of around 13k for these.

[sylvan]

Originally Posted by optimist

The existing relay would be rated just sufficiently! The Higher wattage will over a period of time damage the relay if not the wires.

Please read keyur's experience with stock tyres and pressures.
The front sidewall looks deformed under the recommended 29 psi. I am using 34(warm) on Appollo and this is much more responsive to steering input and acceleration. Recently it handled a country kacha along with 100 jeeps well enough without scrapes. What will be scraping normally is the tow hook at the front which you can possibly ignore.

I will check up on the relay for the headlamps. I agree on 29psi being too less even though that's what is recommended.

[Poitive]

Originally Posted by optimist

The existing relay would be rated just sufficiently! The Higher wattage will over a period of time damage the relay if not the wires. A separate wire capable of this current along with a fuse from the battery till the more powerful relay will be required. Also I remembering replacing my bulb holders in an earlier old gen vehicle when the bulbs were upgraded to 100/90 from lower powered ones as a result of burnout's and resulting loose contact.

Taking this further, a dealer whom I trust a lot more than the average joe one meets said this - "Sir, even if you add a relay, the holders etc. still are often not suited to higher currents. You will be risking them getting damaged. Best to use better bulbs with the same rating". And he is quite an experienced guy. Could easily have sold me some kit or the other, than simply recommend what he did.

Please read keyur's experience with stock tyres and pressures.
The front sidewall looks deformed under the recommended 29 psi. I am using 34(warm) on Appollo and this is much more responsive to steering input and acceleration. Recently it handled a country kacha along with 100 jeeps well enough without scrapes. What will be scraping normally is the tow hook at the front which you can possibly ignore.

I had done a lot of experimentation with tyre pressure myself, to figure out what suits. Have added a longish post on that here: http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-d...ml#post2674572

Have not had trouble with the GC in general. Only the front overhang seems to be quite a bit. Recently had to park half way up a sidewalk. The lower surface was a bit uneven. I presume the car was slanted a bit, with the front a tad lower, and to my surprise, it could not go over! Maybe just the tow-hook. I didn't inspect.

Originally Posted by sylvan

I have tried with pressures from 29 to 34. Now settled with 33 on highways and 32 in city. Gives me mileage of 12-13kmpl in city and 15 on highways.
Will have to do another round of research about car tyres
I have changed the HU to kenwood 5343u.
Next is replace front speakers to JBL and install oval speakers at the rear. I have a got a quote of around 13k for these.

Originally Posted by sylvan

I will check up on the relay for the headlamps. I agree on 29psi being too less even though that's what is recommended.

Are those pressures warm or cold, Sylvan? 29 cold would be about 31-32 warm, depending on usage and ambient temperature. Maybe even more.

Congrats on the Kenwood.

You may be aware that the Optra has a metal sheet in the rear parcel shelf. It can be cut though. It also has rods which control the boot release, which will get tampered a bit - probably not advisable. I was very keen on 6x9 in the rear shelf and have all but given up due to this.

I researched quite a lot on this. Will put up the experience on Optra audio on a thread sometime (for now, am barely being able to update the main thread and keep up with the happenings on the forum).

Edit: Check the JBL's for midrange sound, before you take the plunge. In the past, have been unhappy with that - but this is all very personal. Lots of people swear by JBLs.

[sylvan]

Originally Posted by Poitive

Are those pressures warm or cold, Sylvan? 29 cold would be about 31-32 warm, depending on usage and ambient temperature. Maybe even more.

Congrats on the Kenwood.

You may be aware that the Optra has a metal sheet in the rear parcel shelf. It can be cut though. It also has rods which control the boot release, which will get tampered a bit - probably not advisable. I was very keen on 6x9 in the rear shelf and have all but given up due to this.

I researched quite a lot on this. Will put up the experience on Optra audio on a thread sometime (for now, am barely being able to update the main thread and keep up with the happenings on the forum).

Edit: Check the JBL's for midrange sound, before you take the plunge. In the past, have been unhappy with that - but this is all very personal. Lots of people swear by JBLs.

Didnt check if it mentioned warm or cold. I keep 32 in bangalore and 33 -34 when travelling in TN.
I was aware of the metal sheet that needs to be cut to host 6 X 9, but I didnt know about the boot release controls. I will not tamper if that is going to be the case. Instead I will just replace the rear speakers as well for a better sound experience or go for a under-seat sub. I chose JBL looking at positive response from most users and also that falls in my budget. If the 6 X 9 is going to be compromised, I may even think of going for Polk. Thanks for making me research more on the speakers

[Poitive]

Originally Posted by sylvan

Didnt check if it mentioned warm or cold. I keep 32 in bangalore and 33 -34 when travelling in TN.
I was aware of the metal sheet that needs to be cut to host 6 X 9, but I didnt know about the boot release controls. I will not tamper if that is going to be the case. Instead I will just replace the rear speakers as well for a better sound experience or go for a under-seat sub. I chose JBL looking at positive response from most users and also that falls in my budget. If the 6 X 9 is going to be compromised, I may even think of going for Polk. Thanks for making me research more on the speakers

Warm and Cold tyre pressure
Manufacturers' recommended tyre pressure is cold tyre pressure. This means tyre pressure checked, before running the car in the morning. When you use the car, due to heat, the air in the tyres expands, thereby increasing tyre pressure.We call that warm tyre pressure.

Evidently, cold tyre pressure is a lot more reliable a means to keep track of.

Have noted the tyre pressure to often change between 2-5psi from cold to warm readings. It could be more, or rarely, even less. So the 32 you talk about - if it is warm, it may anyway be about 29 cold.

You may want to read some notes about Optra and tyre pressure in the link put up in my previous post, mate.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~
If mainly the sound in the front two seats is of relevance, it may be best to not tamper with the rear speakers. Maybe add a amp and sub, if you really need it. Getting good components in the front, would be a good idea to start with, and then see what more you need. If you don't wish to add an amp, try and get speakers with good sensitivity (SPL) ratings. I had auditioned Auditors and happily recommend them for the price range they sell in. Got Auditor co-axials in another car.

There are some more discussions about the ICE on the Optra here:
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/ask-gu...let-optra.html

[deepeshh]

Originally Posted by MAS

Changing just the bulbs to 100/90 is very dangerous. You could blow up the fuse anytime and will also weaken the electrical system. It is advisable to use a relay when you upgrade the bulbs.

I completely agree with Mas. Changing the bulbs to higher power is always safe with a relay attached. I got the alteration done for Rs.1450/- (including Philips bulbs/Relay and Kit).

[deepeshh]

Originally Posted by Nikhilb2008

It shouldnt be that high!! Reduce it to 30 or so!

Hi Nikhil, could you pl confirm what is the prescribed PSI for the stock Apollo accelere? The manual says 28psi.

[deepeshh]

ashay1234;1633299]your saying you spent 150 per lamp on upgrading to 100/90 bulbs. did you get relays and cutouts installed and ceramic bulb holders? if not please go and get these now. the light will definitely improve.

Hi Akshay, could you pl elaborate on what you meant by 'cutouts'? I did upgrade to Philips 100/90 and did install relay and extra wiring kit, but not sure about 'Cutout'.

[deepeshh]

Always advisable to go for relay. After all you get it as a kit with the wiring and hardly costs 1000-1500K including the bulbs.

[deepeshh]

Please read keyur's experience with stock tyres and pressures.
The front sidewall looks deformed under the recommended 29 psi. I am using 34(warm) on Appollo and this is much more responsive to steering input and acceleration. Recently it handled a country kacha along with 100 jeeps well enough without scrapes. What will be scraping normally is the tow hook at the front which you can possibly ignore.[/quote]

Optimist could you let me know the ride quality after filling 34PSI, Was the drive bumpy. The service manual and the tyre pressure guage mentioned on the door side says 28PSI as standard.