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-   -   Review: 1st-gen Ford Figo (2010) (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/test-drives-initial-ownership-reports/74219-review-1st-gen-ford-figo-2010-a-396.html)

Checked my Figo today.... March 2011 Titanium D, done 20000 kms... no rust what so ever.. all seems well.

i had sent my car to the workshop for stalling issue. under body check revealed that the oil seal under the engine was damaged which led to oil leakage. since i park the car on muddy shoulder off the road, i could not notice the oil leak. oil pump too was malfunctioning. both the seal and the oil pump was replaced under warranty. no stalling thereafter, though its too early to comment.

The software upgradeis for some batch of cars, and not applicable for all the figos. Service advisor was veryconfident on this.

Thanks for sharing the above. If possible, can you find out from the SA some more details about the affected batch? Time period or VIN series.

Fuel is not from Bangalore. It is from COCL BP at Krishnagiri. (with A2B attached). So I doubt it is fuel quality. Must be something else.
Another thing I've noticed is the grinding noise when applying Brakes and squealing of wipers. I think it is because the ambient temperature in Bangalore is about 15-20* lower than Tirunelveli.

Where can I get wiper washer fluid? And what's the cost?
I was just about to fill water in the washer fluid compartment when I read the caution: "DO NOT FILL TAP WATER".. :-\

Washer fluid is available at a cost of 50 rupees at any of the ford service centers. They will happily fill it for you also so you need not get your fingers dirty

After lots of experimenting I have observed the following in my Figo with respect to gearshifts.

1. Smoothest shifts are at 2,500rpm.
2. Lower rpm gearshifts are not smooth. The gears don't slot in smoothly.
3. 1st to second needs to be a slow shift or a really really quick one with no drop in rpm.
4. 2nd to 3rd has to be lightning quick to get a smooth shift. If you are not in the higher gear and the rpm falls, the gear does not slot in freely.
5. 3rd to 4th has to be a delayed shift. You need to let the revs drop before you can slot into 4th.

All the above are before releasing the clutch i.e. press clutch and slot into higher gear. The clutch release happens after the above.

Any comments?

ps: Does any EXi model owner want a nice shiny silver gear lever? I am getting bored of the silver one and want the black one on the EXi. :D

I generally use RO filtered water,tap water is very hard here in Bangalore and it will definitely clog the washer spray nozzle in the long run. I use the Ford recommended wiper wash additive.

No, I did not. The insurance thing (discussed at the insurance thread) pre occupied me and as basky says, its a waste.

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Thanks for your advise basky, I shall follow it on 26th, being a holiday.

Can you elaborate a bit? Thanks :)

I find the gear shift notchy when shifting from 2nd to 1st when the engine is yet to achieve its optimum temperature, else its fine.

I want the all black console, sigh!

For wash/wipe, I use mineral water stupid: & automotive shampoo, works well for me.

Vids, i suggest you get the gear cables adjusted. I think it should solve your problem. Do a test drive then and there after the job.

Do I need to do this every month? The last time they were adjusted in front of me was december 2011 and before that in august.

The gear adjustment did not have a significant improvement but the clutch pedal gap adjustment they did changed it completely. Now it's slowly deteriorating again.

Rust is a major issue on my FORD FIGO too. Ford first repainted the portions affected by it and now as a last resort have recently repainted my car totally at one of their dealerships in Navi Mumbai. There were just too many regions affected by rust.

Anyways the job performed now is of abysmal quality and I find it no where near to the factory spec of the COLOR QUALITY as was promised to me by FORD before taking my car for repaint. The job and finish both are poor.

I resubmitted my car with them yesterday to get it rectified asap.

Anyways new and old problems have now re-surfaced in my figo now.

1: Door Lock assembly is failing for the Front RHS Door wherein the door just wont open irrespective of Auto key or manual used.

2: After repainting, the bumper and the headlights are misaligned making the Throw of the light go towards the jungles on the left.

3: The Audio System knob is malfunctioning

4: As my Tyres went bald prematurely and even the suspension was making some weird noises, they played with the shockers & suspensions to get a drift of the problem. I don't know about any kind of drift now, but i can testify for the severe chills the STIFF suspension is sending on my spine during the drives.


FORD loves me too much i guess. This car keeps me taking back to them again and again. Gosh.. i want it to end.

No, i did not know that. The adjustment is required once every 3-4 years maybe.

When you paint with a brush, the brush marks will be visible. Running the brush over the freshly painted surface (single component paint which sets when the solvent evaporates), just with the thinner, smoothens the paint surface and the brush marks will no longer be visible. In 2K paint, the two components react to harden. Running a brush with thinner over it may be counterproductive especially if there is delay - when you have too many patches for touch ups. Edit: I prefer the ASPA or equivalent for ease of use in touch-up.

My first Ford car was the 1.8D ZXI Ikon. Lovely, solid car it was. More things failed routinely in one year than in 7 years with my Zen, which was reliable to the core. However, the couple of touch up jobs done at Ford in 1995 were immaculate - Ford was in a relatively higher middle level market then. Had a white Fiesta with superb handling which started belching smoke at 70K kms and was disposed of. Red Figo is going strong and Ok so far.

Have done detailing on quite a number of Figos, but the ones with a refinish (after incidents on the road) have been consistently bad. They are cutting corners in surface preparation and even in the painting and finishing areas. Clear coats on metallic paints are inadequate. Cost cutting, I presume.

Dinesh, if you want to keep the car, take it to a private paint booth known to do a good job, strip it down completely and do a good restoration job - like an antique car. Else, get rid of it.

I have no faith in the dealers or the Company. My son, then a teenager, cheerfully and a bit unkindly renamed it as Fraud :Shockked:. Their cars are well designed but going down market, badly executed and horribly serviced. In fact, large volumes of Figo's just speeded up the mess in service. :eek:

2. RPM should not have any influence in gear shifting and engagement. Many times I have done 4th at lower rpms without any problem.
3. If you shift with "no drop in rpm", then the car will jerk since the given acceleration is already on or the engine noise will be heard more as if you are revving the engine.

Do get it thoroughly inspected as these critical things may lead to mechanical failures.

Refilled the tyre pressure in a reputed BP bunk near Chennai airport and kept 34 and 38 respectively (checked with my own tire gauge also). Did a long travel with five adults. Ride quality was very very horrible in patched roads. Lot of squeaks heard inside the car from various sides while driving in bad roads.