[svsantosh]

Originally Posted by kollamraja

4.The front A-pillars: They seriously impair your peripheral vision. I’ve myself had a couple of near misses, not noticing approaching people/vehicle at turns

Tell me about it!!! It is a Serious problem. I have been thinking of removing the plastic cladding to see it the vision improves any better. Its a major blind spot and at every X or + Roads i make sure I lean forward and backward at least once to make sure I did not miss anything out of sight.

[Mpower]

Originally Posted by kollamraja

Yet, I can’t help feeling my BS III for some reason is making my engine that bit sluggish.
Do I have company here?

Ask the TASS guy what the difference is between the two. Most likely there is an additoinal catalytic converter bolted close to the engine.

[KMohanan]

Hello friends, I got my nano LX in March, 2010. In five months, I have covered more than 7000 kms. The mileage I get for the car is very consistent. It was gradually coming up and the current figure is 19-20 kmpl. This is with AC on. Normal speed 50-70 kms. Road conditions are reasonably good.
It will be useful to have a comparison. I was having an alto for 2 years. Under the same conditions, the alto was giving 17-18 kmpl. So, the comparison is alto 17-18 kmpl; nano 19-20 kmpl. Both with ac on.

[kollamraja]

Originally Posted by KMohanan

Hello friends, I got my nano LX in March, 2010. In five months, I have covered more than 7000 kms. The mileage I get for the car is very consistent. It was gradually coming up and the current figure is 19-20 kmpl. This is with AC on. Normal speed 50-70 kms. Road conditions are reasonably good.
It will be useful to have a comparison. I was having an alto for 2 years. Under the same conditions, the alto was giving 17-18 kmpl. So, the comparison is alto 17-18 kmpl; nano 19-20 kmpl. Both with ac on.

Our cars are of the same age. Mine is a CX BSIII and it has run just over 4100 Kms. The FE figures given below (unless otherwise mentioned) are with a/c and 2 PAX. Fuel is always filled upto auto cut off point ONLY. All trips were on NH 47. Here's the chart column headings Odo reading at the end of trip, FE, Trip distance in Kms

1714, 25.99, 59 ( 1PAX)
1886, 22.17, 141
2049, 19.68, 137 ( incessant rain, slow traffic & not so FE conscious son at the wheel )
2449, 22.24, 141
2607, 24.11, 135
3202, 24.12, 137
3366, 23.52, 127
3704, 27.50, 165 ( 1 PAX , without a/c )
4077, 22.87, 167

I haven't found much correlation between speeds and kpl. There were trips when I have been forced by traffic or weather to maintain between 50 - 60 kph and other times when I could go 80 -90 kph and even cross 100 when traffic permits. But my FE figures didn't seem to change much.

My FE within town hovers around 12.0 kpl. This has to be seen in the light of the fact that my typical car usage is under 5 kms per day and each trip within town is under 2 kms and through crawling traffic from start to finish. Reaching 3rd gear is rare and even then for not more than 5 - 10 secs. Occasionally when I do get the opportunity to make short trips ( below 10 kms ) the FE at the next fuel filling will go up to 14.0 kpl.

[KMohanan]

Originally Posted by kollamraja

Our cars are of the same age. Mine is a CX BSIII and it has run just over 4100 Kms. The FE figures given below (unless otherwise mentioned) are with a/c and 2 PAX. Fuel is always filled upto auto cut off point ONLY. All trips were on NH 47. Here's the chart column headings Odo reading at the end of trip, FE, Trip distance in Kms

1714, 25.99, 59 ( 1PAX)
1886, 22.17, 141
2049, 19.68, 137 ( incessant rain, slow traffic & not so FE conscious son at the wheel )
2449, 22.24, 141
2607, 24.11, 135
3202, 24.12, 137
3366, 23.52, 127
3704, 27.50, 165 ( 1 PAX , without a/c )
4077, 22.87, 167

I haven't found much correlation between speeds and kpl. There were trips when I have been forced by traffic or weather to maintain between 50 - 60 kph and other times when I could go 80 -90 kph and even cross 100 when traffic permits. But my FE figures didn't seem to change much.

My FE within town hovers around 12.0 kpl. This has to be seen in the light of the fact that my typical car usage is under 5 kms per day and each trip within town is under 2 kms and through crawling traffic from start to finish. Reaching 3rd gear is rare and even then for not more than 5 - 10 secs. Occasionally when I do get the opportunity to make short trips ( below 10 kms ) the FE at the next fuel filling will go up to 14.0 kpl.

Car manufacturers do recommend specific speed regions in each gear for getting the maximum fuel efficiency. Eg. Nano 50 - 70 kmph in fourth gear.
If we want to check whether the fuel efficiency is related to speed, structured way of testing is essential. Eg. We have to choose the same sector of road under almost same traffic conditions. During the first trip, we will restrict to the recommended (in owner's manual) speed region and reach the destination, then check the fuel efficiency. Next trip, we will travel at a higher speed and reach the destination and check the fuel efficiency. My experience with nano (with other cars also) shows that the fuel efficiency in the first case will be better than the second.
KollamRaja has clearly indicated that "There were trips when I have been forced by traffic or weather to maintain between 50 - 60 kph and other times when I could go 80 -90 kph and even cross 100 when traffic permits. But my FE figures didn't seem to change much."

This indicates that the fuel efficiency was not tested under identical conditions. This will not bring out real figures.

Also, I have an observation on the way many people measure fuel efficiency. I have heard some people tell "You note down the odometer reading and note down the position of the fuel gauge needle position, then fill full tank petrol, when the fuel gauge needle reaches the noted down position, check how many kms you have run etc" This method is erratic. There are accurate methods of checking mileage by using accurately measured fuel quantity etc, but not practical for regular usage. In my opinion, the fuel efficiency on regular basis should be checked in the following way :

1. When the Empty indicator comes on (Letter 'E' starts blinking in the fuel gauge of nano), fill full tank petrol 'ONLY TILL AUTO-CUTOFF'. (Many petrol bunks try to fill some more petrol to 'round the rupee'. I never allow them to fill even a drop more than the AUTO CUT-OFF, even if I loose money due to no-change !!).
2. Reset your 'trip meter' to zero by 'keep pressing' the push button near the odometer. If your model do not have a trip meter, note down the odometer reading.
3. Run the car till the Empty indicator comes on (Letter 'E' starts blinking in the fuel gauge of nano) again. Take the car for fuel refilling again.
4. Refill the petrol till 'AUTO CUT-OFF' only. Note down the trip meter reading. (If your model do not have a trip meter, find the difference in odometer reading from the reading noted down earlier.) Assume that it was 278 kms.
Find out how much petrol you had to fill this time to reach 'AUTO CUT-OFF'. Assume that you had to fill 13.5 litres. Then your fuel efficiency is 278/13.5 = 20.59 kmpl. Kindly note that this method also will give you only 'reasonably accurate' values, not 'very accurate' values. For very accurate values, you will have to connect separate measured fuel etc with the help of a technician, which is not practical on regular basis.
Generally, what I observed in the case of my earlier cars is that the fuel efficiency slowly increases from the time you purchase the new car till it reached about 5000 kms. Then remain almost constant till the first 'Oil change' (at 10,000 kms in nano). After oil change, you will get a small jump. Then it will remain almost constant (of course, under identical conditions) throughout till the deterioration of the engine health.

[kollamraja]

My Tata Nano CX BSIII will be 6 months old next week and has done 4700 Kms. I fell in love with the car the day Shri. Ratan Tata unveiled it to the world. Its served me well during the 6 months I have used it and it has stood up well to the rigours of riding on very rough pot holed roads as well cruising the NH47, even crossing the 100 km/hr limit once in a while. Its seen the scorching Kerala summer as well as the driving rains of monsoon and negotiated both with absolute ease. I adore my Nano just as much now as I did on the first day.
During this time I've had one major issue - the starter motor burning. Minor problems include combination switch replacement ( the lever that controls headlamp, indicators, wipers etc ), air conditioner filter cleaning due to dust choking and door closing problem. Sadly all my doors need to be banged shut and the TASS has put up its hand and accepted defeat.

Now I have cause for concern. The pictures below show the onset of rusting at the base of the forward vertical strut under the driver's seat. I wonder how rusting can happen at a point where there has never been any contact with moisture.


And the pictures below show a faint discolouration around the bracket holding the rod that supports the bonnet.




I have read about metal parts being glued together instead of being welded and once happened to see an episode on Discovery Channel where the strength of such joints was demonstrated. I believe this technique has been extensively used in the Nano. I hope the discolouration is just the colour of glue and not tell tale signs of rusting.

[condor]

@Kollamraja, the first one - strut under driver seat definitely looks like rust. suggest you get that rectified asap.

Will need to wait & watch the discoloration of the bonnet support bracket/mount.

[clevermax]

Though it looks like rusting, I guess it is only in the surface, you can see such rusting in many freshly created metallic joints when exposed to rains for a short period.

[sbanerjee]

For the rusting at base of the forward vertical strut under the driver's seat, it can be battery acid (i.e. spillage of water from battery). Check that out, as the battery is near it.

[kollamraja]

Originally Posted by condor

@Kollamraja, the first one - strut under driver seat definitely looks like rust. suggest you get that rectified asap.

I suppose cleaning the spot as best as possible and applying a dab of paint would take care if it.

Originally Posted by sbanerjee

For the rusting at base of the forward vertical strut under the driver's seat, it can be battery acid (i.e. spillage of water from battery). Check that out, as the battery is near it.

Yes. You are spot on there. The starter motor burning incident caused short circuiting and the acid in the battery did boil and spill over.

[KMohanan]

About a year back, I visited one tata commercial vehicles showroom to have a look at the Tata Magic (Passenger version of Tata Ace). Three new tata magic vehicles were there. On inspection, I found 'similar' color changes (looking like rust) in those new vehicles below the rear seat.
It may not be a serious rusting and may go if you clean well and take care by appying a little trace of grease. But, it also shows that tata is not taking sufficient care in 'anti-rust treating' of body parts.
Since I have not inspected any other brand car, I cannot say that only tata cars are having such problems. I request all of you, especially those who own other brands than tata, to look for any such symptoms.

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

Originally Posted by kollamraja

Now I have cause for concern. The pictures below show the onset of rusting at the base of the forward vertical strut under the driver's seat. I wonder how rusting can happen at a point where there has never been any contact with moisture.

This is because of poor weld quality (weld spatter all over) and improper surface finish. Is that paint/enamel or powder coated part?

And the pictures below show a faint discolouration around the bracket holding the rod that supports the bonnet.

This is because of improper Electro deposition (AED/CED), improper paint spray. Can be rectified.

Answers in bold above^^, suggest you take this up with the manufacturer, this is a quality issue (seat rust) and can be replaced/rectified.

Spike

[kollamraja]

Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR

Answers in bold above^^, suggest you take this up with the manufacturer, this is a quality issue (seat rust) and can be replaced/rectified.

Spike

My TASS cleaned the rust under the driver seat and dabbed paint over it. He however dismissed the bonnet rod area as just discolouration.

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

@kollamraja, get the car water serviced; and while it is standing on the lift / pedestal / whatever, do a good examination of the underbody, with the assitance of a strong torch (this one place where you can use those chinese make LED torches - they are very bright).

Just to be safe.

@KMohanan - there is a thread on "rusted" wheel nuts for some care on this forum. Forgot which brand it was. The consensus on that threat was such rust was normal. But on sheet metal / mild steel, such rust can lead to nasty results. That is why I am asking for an underbody examination.

[Chewbacca]

The joint above the strut is welded and it's quite normal to for it to rust, especially during rainy season (excessive humidity) and more so due to it's proximity to the battery. Any lead-acid battery and for that matter even the maintenance-free batteries would emit acidic fumes that can corrode metals within it's proximity.

Except for few isolated incidents and some non-critical issues that can be rectified easily, the Nano has lived up to it's expectations. I salute Mr. Ratan Tata for his vision in making the impossible, possible. Compare the 1.5 lakh Nano with any other 5 lakh hachback, then add the cost of ownership for a 5 year period, you will realize the economy and the sensibility of the humble Nano.

-----------------------
Chewbacca