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Old 15th July 2011, 10:25   #31
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Re: Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering M

The Shekawathi Havellis of Rajasthan is also the Architectural excellence in India. The art and paintings in those Haveli is simply superb.Has anyone seen these Havelis.
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Old 15th July 2011, 11:33   #32
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Re: Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering M

Quote:
Originally Posted by rki2007 View Post
The Shekawathi Havellis of Rajasthan is also the Architectural excellence in India. The art and paintings in those Haveli is simply superb.Has anyone seen these Havelis.
Rki,

We have seen them during our Rajasthan trip in 2009. French artist Nadine Le Prince purchased a haveli in 1992 and has restored it beautifully which is open to public at Rs 100 as entrance ticket. Sadly, like Chettinad, there are many havelis around hers which are getting ruined.

I will post the picture later.

Take a look at this nice photo tour of Shekhavati

Photo Tour of Fatehpur (Shekhawati, Rajasthan) : India Travel Blog | 10 Year Itch Tours | 10 Year Itch
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Old 16th July 2011, 18:03   #33
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Re: Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering M

@ Fauji Sir

Thank you for the wonderful t-log. The snaps are so clear and the tile-fundas very educative.

Which vehicle did you use for this drive? (Sorry if this is a repetition)

Warm regards,
NagaSid
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Old 16th July 2011, 18:46   #34
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Re: Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering M

Let me add, The Bangala has 20 rooms. Each of them are different. We had the honeymoon sweet, complete with mirrors on the bed and above. Let me want you, that one looks disappointing in those mirrors as your fat redistributing itself when one lies down.

Have never had Badan Halva where the ghee sweats of it. You also will finnd Mrs Meyappan will make it a point to have a meal with you to ensure you get a homely feel.

Inside of Chettinad Palace. Note, I was not too hot a photographer then.

Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering Menus-g.k.valeaa021.jpg

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Old 17th July 2011, 07:42   #35
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Re: Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering M

A few years back, I remember buying a book on Temples of South India while attending a training in Taj, Bangalore. And since then Chettinad is on my list of travels. And this travelogues of yours is a muse now.

Thanks for posting wonderful pictures. And do we have list of houses that we can visit? Or the heritage hotels and personal connections are the only way to visit them?

Talking of food, my yearning for TN food is always increasing. I can't just have enough. I was in Chennai for 3 years and I loved the restaurants there. And I have always devoured the food in that region even outside Chennai - Trichy, Thanjavur, Chidambaram, etc. O Gosh, when do I get to eat there?
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Old 17th July 2011, 17:26   #36
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Re: Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering M

@ Fauji saab,
Excellent write up and brilliant photographs. It brings back fond memories of our visit to chettinad back in 2008.
The trip was mainly to see the Athangudi tiles for our new house. Although shelved for a couple of years, this year we have booked the tiles and we are expecting delivery by next month


@rki2007
Thanks for enlightening on the architecture and culture. These information were not known to us during our visit.
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Old 18th July 2011, 10:40   #37
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Re: Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering M

Quote:
Originally Posted by rki2007 View Post
The Shekawathi Havellis of Rajasthan is also the Architectural excellence in India. The art and paintings in those Haveli is simply superb.Has anyone seen these Havelis.
RKI,

As promised, here are some pictures of Nadine le Prince haveli in Fatehpur which is the main town in Shekhvati region. All havelis have similar paintings but many of them are badly maintained. Look at the last one. It is sorry state of affairs.

To a large extent the story of Shekhavati and Chettinad are same. Rich Merchantile families, Palatial mansions, Present day multilple ownership etc.

Painted walls - Internal

Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering Menus-dsc02075.jpg

Painted walls - External

Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering Menus-dsc02076.jpg

Close up of paintings

Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering Menus-dsc02079.jpg

Colourful courtyard

Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering Menus-dsc02081.jpg

Colourful entrance to Haveli

Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering Menus-dsc02082.jpg

Sorry state of affairs of some havelis, notice faded paintings on the entrance arch

Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering Menus-dsc02083.jpg

Quote:
Originally Posted by naga.sid View Post
@ Fauji Sir

Thank you for the wonderful t-log. The snaps are so clear and the tile-fundas very educative.

Which vehicle did you use for this drive? (Sorry if this is a repetition)

Warm regards,
NagaSid
Thanks Naga. We drove in Scorpio.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ajmat View Post
Let me add, The Bangala has 20 rooms. Each of them are different. We had the honeymoon sweet, complete with mirrors on the bed and above. Let me want you, that one looks disappointing in those mirrors as your fat redistributing itself when one lies down.

Have never had Badan Halva where the ghee sweats of it. You also will finnd Mrs Meyappan will make it a point to have a meal with you to ensure you get a homely feel.

Inside of Chettinad Palace. Note, I was not too hot a photographer then.
Thanks Ajmat for adding pictures of palace which we missed out.

We did not have Badam halva but what ever was prepared was so good that it was a treat. You Bet, Mrs Meyyappan takes care of her guests so well you feel very homely. This is the big difference we found when we had lunch in Visalam which was more corporate like. In our case, we were only two couples and had royal treatment

Quote:
Originally Posted by akbaree View Post
A few years back, I remember buying a book on Temples of South India while attending a training in Taj, Bangalore. Thanks for posting wonderful pictures. And do we have list of houses that we can visit? Or the heritage hotels and personal connections are the only way to visit them?

O Gosh, when do I get to eat there?
akbaree,

Nice to know you like the TL. Mrs Meyyappan along with her brother S Muthiah, eminent historian and writer have published an excellent book titled "Chettinad heritage". It costs Rs 2500.

Normally, these hotels have leased out the houses for showing it to their guests. Normally rich chettiars who have business interests in Chennai and elsewhere do not stay in Karaikkudi and congregate there for fanmily functions like marraige etc. When empty, they will lease out the place to these hotels. Otherwise also, you can just walk into any house and generally people will oblige.

You should eat in Bangala. You will be satiated!! Possibly ultimate in Chettinad cuisne, specially if you are a non veg - look at the menu chettinad Prwan curry, Chettinad rabbit fry, Chettinad chicken masala etc Ajmat will vouch for it!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dhar's View Post
@ Fauji saab, Excellent write up and brilliant photographs. It brings back fond memories of our visit to chettinad back in 2008.
The trip was mainly to see the Athangudi tiles for our new house. Although shelved for a couple of years, this year we have booked the tiles and we are expecting delivery by next month
Thank you sir. These tiles will definitely add colour to you home!!
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Old 18th July 2011, 10:53   #38
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Re: Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering M

@ Fauji:- Excellent Sir , a great delight to the eyes. The Shekawathi Palaces have taken a priority list in my travelogues. I should do it very soon. Fanatastic pictures.

@Dhar's :- I acknowledge your thanks. I thank you for reading my post.

Last edited by rki2007 : 18th July 2011 at 10:55.
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Old 18th July 2011, 16:29   #39
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Re: Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering M

Excellent travelogue. Short ,sweet, informative and well worded. Used to visit Karaikudi in the eighties.Havent been there since then. Your photographs and writeup bring back old memories of the roads, the homes and the mouthwatering chettinad cuisine!The writeup on the tiles was very informative.The thought of getting some antique furniture got me and my wife planning to visit karaikudi. The only issue that worries me is, will we get antique furniture or will we end up getting antique looking furniture! No doubt some local reliable guidnce will help.
Regards
Ashok
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Old 18th July 2011, 20:16   #40
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Re: Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering M

wonderful experience and thank you very much for sharing the same with the community. thanks to my dad and brother, we too are going to use those hand made floor tiles for our next home.
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Old 18th July 2011, 21:24   #41
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Re: Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering M

Quote:
Originally Posted by rki2007 View Post
@ Fauji:- Excellent Sir , a great delight to the eyes. The Shekawathi Palaces have taken a priority list in my travelogues. I should do it very soon. Fanatastic pictures.
Thanks Rki. You can comfortably do Fatehpur when you plan a trip to Jaipur. It is just one and half hour drive from there. Also, if you are coming from Jodhpur to Jaipur, you can come via Fatehpur.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ashphil View Post
Excellent travelogue. Short ,sweet, informative and well worded. The only issue that worries me is, will we get antique furniture or will we end up getting antique looking furniture! No doubt some local reliable guidnce will help.
Regards
Ashok
Thanks Ashok. You don't have to worry on the authenticity of antiques. These guys are hardcore antique dealers unlike the ones you find on the beaches of Goa. You can go ahead. Alternately, there are dealers in Madras who deals with Chettinad antiques. Do let me know i can provide details.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rawkeron View Post
wonderful experience and thank you very much for sharing the same with the community. thanks to my dad and brother, we too are going to use those hand made floor tiles for our next home.
Thanks Rawkeron. We too had planned for these tiles when we built the house in Bangalore in 2000. We had planned Jaislamer marble - the yellow cloured one - with attangudi tiles as border for our living room. It would have looked lovely. We could not get delivery in time and had to shelve it and use only Jaiselmer. It arrived late and we have kept some of them as souvenir
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Old 19th July 2011, 20:42   #42
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Re: Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering M

Fauji,
Would be obliged if you could PM me any details which you have on the antique dealers in Chennai.
Regards,
Ashok
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Old 21st July 2011, 20:32   #43
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Re: Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering M

I rememebered that i missed out on another aspect of Chettinad architecture. The massive granite pillars supporting the structures. These pillars are huge and silky smooth! Just take a look at this picture which was shot close and you can't but agree with me.
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Old 10th August 2011, 16:03   #44
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Re: Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering M

Just saw this Travelogue now. Fantastic log and thank you for sharing this!

My mother was born in Karaikudi and my grandparents (Mothers side) were from the nearby town of Parmakudi! Seeing this log was a treat and we're all set to visit these places next summer!

Cheers!
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Old 12th August 2011, 21:01   #45
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Re: Fauji's Drivologues: Charming Chettinad - Magnificent Mansions & Mouth Watering M

Beautiful travelogue Fauji. Many of these mansions were pulled down over the years. I have been to Karaikudi a couple of times, but have never seen these houses except in some movies. I have a friend from Karaikudi and if I recall correctly, their family too owned one of these. For many families, these became white elephants, which they were eager to get rid of. And we lost a part of our heritage. I hope the remaining mansions are maintained well and preserved for our posterity. At least I have had a virtual tour thanks to your pictures.
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