There are certain things which are beyond the realms of time, some things which could be built only once and intended to stay forever with an inexplicable charm..How does it feel to travel through a rail line through the forest, falling into the symphony of crickets, birds, streams, rain and the clickety clack of meter gauge rail lines, to travel atop the 13 pillar 'Kannara Bridge' parallel to the river and road, how does it feel to be entering a tunnel under a mountain in Kerala and emerge seeing the endless paddy fields in Tamilnadu stretched across the horizon.
That 'WAS' the erstwhile Punalur - Shenkottai meter gauge rail line for you, built by British in early 19th Century, transported many known and unknown people, transported history in the process and now, being mindlessly shut down for conversion into broad gauge. This is not a train journey, but a travel undertaken through parallel road to find out the remains of erstwhile British legacy which ought to have been preserved.
Bit by 'history-bug', we decided to undertake the Punalur-Ottakkal-Thenmala-Kazhuthuruty-Edappalayam-Aryankavu- Bhagavathipuram-Shenkottai road trip on the road running parallel to the meter gauge track, exploring the erstwhile stations and places. Unfortunately,some stations like Punalur, Shenkottai etc were out of bonds since they prohibited us from taking pictures for some reason. Yet the drive was an unforgettable one, drawing us back to the black & white era of the steam engines, token-ring exchanges and the melodious 'ting ting' bells controlling the trains.
If the parallel road can be beautiful, would the rail lines be behind
The hanging bridge at Punalur was a good start to the trip and off we went, driving on a relatively cool day. The first station, we could enter to was Thenmala Station. This was right across the vast timber auction depot. From the Highway, the entrance is barely visible as unwanted plants and grass have grown all over the path. We parked the car by the side of the Timber Merchants Club which was constructed in 1928, was used as divisional forest office in later years and lying abandoned now. Pity that such old structures are being left to mercy of 'someone'.
As we walked up the path leading to the station, it took some time for me for the realization to sink in. In front of me was one of the final legacies of the erstwhile 'British Raj', a colonial era station in which nothing much had changed except that it was electrified. The good old slits in wall for lighting & ventilation, wooden fences, corridors, the arch windows, the window bars having such a thickness that it would last more than 500 years..everything was different from what a railway station is for me. The other two 'guys' (rather matured gentlemen) with me had many experiences of traveling in the meter gauge line from their childhood days. One of the greatest regrets in my life would be that i never bother to take even a single journey in the meter gauge train. Seeing the station and the wooded routes through which the line went, the sense of 'loss' sunk more into me.
fading into oblivion?? entry to an abandoned station
Untouched Thenmala railway station, but for how long
The station lay totally abandoned except for an old care taker. he was suspicious of us first and questioned us for sometime. Finally, when he felt comfortable, he opened out his mind to us, taking us through heart of an ardent old-timer who still believes that he should be living in the steam engine era. From his childhood he had been associated with the station doing odd jobs, from the steam engine era and he explained the changes over the period. Often staring to the distant horizon to which the rail lines went, he gave us glimpses of the life & time, of the people and events and many more. He would have continued, but we stopped him from as we felt that we were adding to our 'loss' hearing the good ol' stories. We wandered around the station for some time and came across a water tank built in 1901, which looked so solid and remained intact. Imagine such a construction in present days.
After clicking around, we walked back to the care takers shed where he was still sitting with his eyes fixed to the horizon.Beside the shed was a yard in which the ripped off tracks, equipments, devices etc were numbered and stored for auction. Imagine what would be going through the mind of this old man who was standing guard as those assets were lying exposed to the elements waiting for a scrap dealer to pick them up for dirt cheap price. Luckily, we found a signalling bell which was still hanging near the erstwhile Station Master's cabin and it was still not 'numbered'. One of us took the iron stick and rang the bell..it was only the sound of wind and the 'ting ting ting ting' then. That single sound had transported all of us to a distant past when the bell controlled the arrival and departure of trains. It was time to leave and we asked the old man if the new broad gauge line would come any time soon to which he replied - "I don't want it in my lifetime". A dog lay idly in one of the waiting benches, wagging its tail slowly and it gave the feeling of the unmindful 'babus' who killed off this exquisite meter gauge - 'gone to the dogs'.
never again would those slow trains chug through these tracks, never again, the journeys would be sedate and beautiful
Driving down few miles from the Thenmala Station, beyond a curve lay one of the most beautiful rail bridges in the world - the '13 Kannara Bridge' with 13 pillars. This stands testimony to the architectural/ engineering wizardry of the British. A walk over the bridge would give heavenly view of the curve in geography where the rail line, the road and the Kazhuthurutty river runs parallel to each other. I've passed through the road many times before, yet, the spot never cease to amaze me. We came to know that during the process of gauge conversion, the pillars of the bridge is proposed to be 'Jacketed'. This is bad news as the beauty of the bridge would be gone forever. We clicked around the bridge and was about to take a steep route to climb the hill and reach the railway track above and suddenly, we were stopped by a booming voice from somewhere which ordered us not to climb. We were taken aback by this sudden voice and looked around and finally, found an old man sitting atop the bridge. He had deep sunk in eyes and aged beard. He said that the path which we were going to take is quite slippery due to early rain and told us not to proceed. We stared him for some time and he stared back at us..he had the look of a 'spirit'.
hidden treasure - the famed 13 pillar Kannara Bridge
the 'spirit' whom we came across
We continued our journey and the two elder gentlemen made me envious with their discussion about their travel experience of yesteryear. There were few small stations by the side of the highway, but all were ripped of rails and other assets. We decided to check in at the Aryankavu station and there too, rails were ripped off for auction, numbered and kept in order for auction. An old wooden bench remained, which was besides a huge 'Ilanji' tree which has beautiful white flowers with mild aroma. The ground and bench was covered fully by the fallen flowers and this gave another dimension to the scene. In this part, 'Ilanji' flower and the aroma of the flower is associated to something mystic or mystically romantic. What better than the love for the meter gauge can best be signified by the Ilanji in the station. As we clicked around, officials from the company carrying out the gauge conversion came in. We struck up a conversation with them and found that the new gauge would take around 5 more years to be set in properly..However, they told one thing - the meter gauge shouldn't have been killed off.
We kept driving and entered Tamilnadu enroute to our next destination was Bhagavathipuram, the penultimate station. As soon as we entered tamilnadu, the scenery had changed. Paddy saplings were being planted and it was starting to look like a new lush green carpet on one side and the mountains on other side. We were in the hope that we could see an 'untuoched' station and took the deviation from the highway. The drive to the Bhagavathipuram station was like walking through a typical Bharathiraja movie from 70s amd 80s - paddy fields on either sides, coconut farms, small ponds, culverts, tamarind trees giving shades, pucca village life where time stood still. Our anticipation rose as we drove through such a setting and reached the station. the entry to the station had few local shops and huge shade trees. We saw people sitting idly in the benches under the trees and there was a sense of silence except for the old tamil song coming out from a tea-shop. We could see mountain towering over on one side of the station and we walked into the station with excitement.
enroute to bhagavathipuram station
But, all that was gone as we saw the station was being demolished from one side and the ripped off tracks left to elements. From the entry of the station , one could see the arrow straight alignment of the track which felt like it was coming from straight under the mountain. The rail track leading to the station had vast fields on either side and from the entry of the station, if you look to the right, the track continued arrow straight and headed for another mountain. We kept imagining how the scene would have been during old days and especially on a rainy day..Now, the station was almost in mud and sand as work was going on and we decided to clear off.
We walked out of the station and sat on a bench under the shade tree, asking to each other what had the meter gauge done to get such a 'punishment'. With the anger brooding inside us, we decided that it was better not to get back to any more stations and we decided to get our-self lost in the 'Bharathiraja' setting around the station..Thereafter, our cams didn't get an interval as one spot was more beautiful than the other. As we were clicking around, an old man came and said "If you want to see even more beautiful places, you should walk through the rail line.". Yes, whatever we saw was beautiful, but whatever we missed out was even more beautiful. It was time to pack up and return to the present.
and our companion in the rail trail resting in front of '1928 Timber Merchants Rest House'