27-11-2011: Nha Trang – Diving Day.
Before I start, a little bit about the women there. Yes, I feel its mandated now. Most young women we saw, 90%, wore shorts very short. Even country side fisher folks / farmers were on jeans, fashion seems to have spread fast and wild, reportedly through telly. Nha Trang is no exception, being a beach resort, if you can imagine the least amount of cloths, you get the picture. The western tourists, mostly from Australia and an assorted lot of others who are on a beach holiday? Almost starkers!! It was difficult not to watch, tough when your wife is watching YOU!! For just such an emergency, over a period of years, I have developed strong peripheral vision, I can easily be mistaken for looking straight while I can take in what’s on the sides. Need I say more? We also had a small sample of uninteresting Japanese, Koreans who were more modestly dressed; modesty is relative, I guess. If you consider HCMC warm, Nha Trang was hot and Hanoi sizzling!! Wait till I upload videos.
We were told to reach Mark’s dive school at 0700 Sharp, we were 10 minutes late, the pick up van had left. We biked it to the pier from where most dive ships leave, they were waiting. Our boat had a bunch of Russians, Estonians, 3 families, they were all professional divers; 5 men, 3 women, 3 boys below 10, one of 15 and a small girl of 4 years. A young commercial diver who knew little English seemed to be in charge of the group and Mark was in charge of our boat. A 45 minute journey brought us to the marine park, you can see a small island and 2 more dive boats full of people.
A dive boat has many helpers, the cooking staff and lot of local guys. Mark told us not bring anything expensive and keep the cameras, mobiles, jewelry, money in the locker, neatly tied in plastic bags. He said we can think of photos later, most people were NOT carrying cameras. We were too tense to think of clicks, we were concentrating on what other people were doing and concerned about getting into open water. Later, after everything was over, we managed to take a couple of snaps, most important shots were missed.
Our boat tied up with another, that was full of Russians too, about 10-15 diving families!! They said most Russian divers are paid very well and they come with wads of money, this was news to me. While the men were in water, women were on the deck with the skimpiest of bikinis, a couple of them joining in the diving. At first, we seemed to be the only ones learning to diving, the Russian gang talked to us in broken English, some translated to others, they were surprised to see an Indian women in bindi, shorts and T shirts jumping into water with diving gear!! There were 2 US born Indian guy, surprised to see us diving, they were learning too. It was a freaked out setting, we stepped way out of our comfort zones to try something new.
We had already passed entry course, the free class room portion of the diving is online, one need to register and select his dive center.
SSI :: SSI Scuba Schools International :: take your dive @ diveSSI.com
It’s an interactive course on basics, science and procedures of diving with videos, question and answers, you have to finish one stage to move to another. This is necessary to understand the basics of depth, pressure, air volume, air density, Boyl’s Law, Archimedes principles of buoyancy, using of masks, fins, tank & regulators. Even snorkelers should know the basics before jumping into water.
There are many helpers, dive schools pool resources like boats, support people, equipment etc., to maximize profits, they are communal here as seen on the boats. Most outfits are owned by whites, competition is hectic. Mark helped us into a wet suit, the water was cold. The weight belt, tank, the BC (buoyancy compensator) suit, the fins go in next, first, Anu’s turn. Experienced divers / snorkelers are already in. Mark rigs himself up, goes a classical jump from the boat deck, 8 feet down holding his face mask, helpers ease Anu down and I jump in. After that, all theories disappear.
The water is a different environment, not natural to us. We’re both good swimmers but with the weights, face mask, mouth piece and tank on your back, one feels out of place. The mind plays tricks on you, what if I sink with the weight, what if a big fish attacks you, 1000’s of what ifs play havoc, short-circuit all logical thinking, adrenalin the survival hormone takes over. With the mask on you should not breathe with the nose (the natural and automatic thing to do), the glass fogs over, breathing thru the regulator on your mouth sends out clouds of bubbles all around your face, you think if bubbles are coming from my mouth, something is seriously wrong, your reflexes kick in and you try to breathe through the nose, it fogs, you can’t see and fear takes over. Mark allow us to float, put the mask on and off repeatedly so we would get to understand air lock, blow out water, clean the mask, breathe through the regulator, use the two red buttons on the BC to go up and down. I was comfortable to float on the surface, Anu dived in holding on to Mark, there was a slow tide on and I drifted off.
I release air with the red button on the BC, go down and see Anu and Mark swimming. Knowing they are safe, I try to go under, Mark gestures for me to keep close by, this goes on for 15-20 minutes, we go up and down, Mark points to fish and coral. Dive 5 minutes, surface 5 minutes, about 45 minutes was the most terrorizing for me as water was finding its way through my mush, the mask was fogging and I was very uncomfortable. Anu did better, she stayed down longer and said she saw lots of fish and coral. We swim back to the boat, it’s very tiring, we take rest, most people come back to boat. 2 boats move to the next location.
Clear water, deeper location, you can see coral below. Anu decides to stay on board, I rig up and jump in again with Mark. After some floating, he pulls me under, we go down to 10 feet, he points out the magical world of fishes, coral and underwater life. A couple of Russian divers wearing blue shorts glide below us effortlessly with just snorkels, that looked easy. Mark is fingering my BC to go deeper, I guess we reach 25+ feets, I could feel the increasing pressure on my ear; one has to hold breath and blow on and off to equalize , the pain in my ear starts. Don’t remember what I did, some water enters my nose through the mask, I almost panic and gestures to go up while Mark pulls me down, he was frantically gesturing something. This goes on 2 minutes (looked like hours to me, all I wanted was God given surface air) me trying to go up, Mark pulling me towards one side and then we surface. He was livid, we are not allowed to surface beyond the boat line. The line is a rope floating on a buoy, a marker for safe diving. Beyond the line, boats move, I suddenly remember the noise I heard overhead while trying to surface, a boat on the move!! Thundering typhoons, this is scary stuff. You cannot surface fast, for a beginner that could be dangerous, we had moved almost 300 mtrs away and 25 feets down from the boat in search of corals!!
I was winded. The air from the tank is natural air but dry, my throat was burning, my nasal track was on fire with sea water, some must have found entry inside my sinus, must have swallowed liters of salt water too. What looked so romantic, adventurous and easy while reading, seeing movies and in fantasy in reality is a different ball game. Mark said, let’s do it again and reached for my BC, I wanted as much distance from him as possible and told him, lay off, I need time, he nodded and we headed for the boat. Anu was anxiously waiting on the deck, one look on my face, she said let’s call this off and enjoy the ride. This was a hit below belt for my Macho (if I was objective, I would have agreed with her and done the wise thing) and said no way (I have something to prove to all these divers!! How stupid can one get) Almost everyone was on water, diving, snorkeling except for a couple of Russian female sun worshippers on the top deck. The three year old Russian girl was on a life buoy swimming with her mother!! I said if 3 year olds can do, why can’t I? Water babies and land lubbers are different, late realization that.
In 30 minutes Mark comes back and asks, are you ready? I said, let’s go, right question wrong answer. We jump into water again, Mark said, just relax, breath on the regulator and leave the rest to me. We stay put at 10 feet for 5 minutes, seeing the sights. It was magnificent; schools of fish swam by, a bright coloured fish came close, I almost reached out to touch it, it darted away. The coral were alive and pulsing, we hit sand bottom at 25 feets; all the while I was equalizing, blowing, but the pain in the ear was constant now, I gestured to Mark my ears and said, let’s go up, it has been 15+ minutes, this time I follow Mark slowly and independently. Was a great dive and the best part of the whole tour. The pain in my ear disappeared, I was very happy to have tried a new world and a new adventure.
It’s about 130 PM, we transfer to our original boat, change our wet dress and settle down for lunch. I feel very tired, head ache, ear ache and nausea returns and I know this is the start of sinusitis which has been dormant for 3 years. If it hits, it could be a bad spell which only aggressive medical treatment would solve. I manage to gulp down some vegetables, boiled eggs and rice, Anu knew my condition and kept quiet. My pains were increasing, by the time we reached the ferry, I was in agony. Anu just took the keys form me, drove the bike and we reached the hotel about 4 PM. I rushed for the medicine kit, took out an Allegra, a loading doze of Azithromycin 500 mg, 650 mg of paracetamol, Tramadol HCL and went to sleep. When I woke up around 8 PM, I was feeling much better, the pain had subsided though not disappeared, my frontal sinuses were swollen and inflamed. This was the red flag for diving!!
The return journey. The Floating Farm, people live on these farms, there are fishing pens, once they grow big they are sold. We saw big ones splashing inside nets.
Notice the baby sleeping on the pram, she was on water most of the time.
Mark clowning as usual:
I said no diving tomorrow to Anu, she said, “I knew that after our first dive, but you had to go in again, prove something and aggravate it. Even the first dive was great and we can remember that for a long time”. I agreed, it was stupid and irrational and I should have aborted the 2nd dive. Lesson learned the hard way. We called Mark and gave him the bad news, we’re not coming in tomorrow, he was concerned, rushed to our hotel right away, wanted me to see a doctor. We went down and I explained my para-medic background, the medicines are on and working. He told us not to worry and take it easy for the night and promised to work out something.
In retrospect, we did enjoy the day a lot, an adventure tied; something tried something lost, an experience gained and shared together, a truck load of memories under water. Enough.
A list of things we saw under water, later Mark showed us these next day in the Oceanographic Museum:
- Emperor Angel fish
- Clown fish (finding Nemo fame)
- Golden stripe angel fish
- Bandit angel fish
- Millet Sea Butterfly fish
- Convict fish
- Clarks angel fish
- Moorish Idol fish
- Pike fish
- Golden damsel fish
- Neon Damsel fish
- Mushroom Coral
- Plate Coral
- Lettuce Coral
- Staghorn Coral
- Brain Coral
Some of these we would be able to recognize if we saw them again, new learnings.
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