Day 7 --> Kargil To Leh--Distance --220 kilometres
Early morning at around 7 o clock, we set off from Hotel Zozilla for Leh. We were told that the roads were fantastic and we had nothing to worry. From our earlier experiences we had realised that their definition of fantastic and our definition of fantastic is poles apart.
The first 10 kilometres or so were..well fantastic according to us too with sweeping corners which were properly banked. I had fun taking the Swift through her paces as there was just a Santro and us going towards Leh in our periphery. The Santro guy once overtaken matched my speed and line with his speed and constantly kept us company in-spite of his Santro being on stock tyres and mine shod with soft Michelin 185's. People here sure are excellent drivers.
The next 10 kilometres and gravel roads started coming back in patches. What I learnt after passing some of these stretches was, You damage the car more if you take each of these stretches at 1 and 2 kmph, its best to maintain some momentum and that's what I did, started passing these stretches at 30's and 40's and we could hardly feel anything inside the car because of that.
Here it how the roads pretty much were till Leh after the first 30 kilometres or so.
Here is a picture of the highway clicked from a mountain pass. Notice how small the trucks and buses appear from here.
One more
Soon we stopped to click pictures of kids who were on their way to school near a village.
Here they are
Her name was Fatima.
And here is a group picture
After we passed this group, we were on the foothills of Fotula Pass, A Maruti 800 had been pushed off the road by an on coming truck and the car lying on the embankment more than 3 feet below the highway. Around 10 people had gathered around with an uncle in an Ikon figuring out how to get this 800 out. We stopped and offered to help. Connected the rope they had to the Swifts read end and pulled the 800 out in no time as at these altitudes we were no way going to help them push the car out. Exertion is a killer here and we hardly had the strength most of the times to pull ourselves.
Now the next problem he faced was, damage to the 800. I being an automotive engineer, checked his car and certified it drivable. The only damage to his car was the oil sump which resembled a micky mouse's head now but it was nothing which needed immediate attention. With a downslope in the opposite direction and me in the drivers seat, I started his car with some clutch dumpings in second gear and he was on his way.
Phew.
The climb to fotula pass is a road filled with sand but nothing to sweat as it was just lose sand and had no boulders or stone beneath them. But yes, the dust storm it creates due to passing trucks can create breathing problems and the windows are best left closed.
Here is how it was.
Finally making it up, when we got out of the car, we did have visual blackouts and breathlessness. We decided to not stay here any longer and proceeded.
Getting down, we came across this woman walking on the road, we stopped the car to click her picture. We even ended up having a conversation with her, she did not know Hindi that well, but enough for us to communicate, but she told us she had come to Mumbai when she was a kid and asked us to take her with us in the car. We realised it was time to scoot
On the way we stopped at Lamayaru Monestary. It was okay, we did not find it that exciting as we were more of highway scenery guys than monument, culture ones. Never the less, I did click a picture of the monastery from afar
Proceeding further, Leh was still a cool 110 kilometres away and Rahul was feeling sick because of the constant turns on the highway along with the altitude changes. It was lunch time but we could not find anything on the way and the canteen in Lamayaru was closed, so we just proceed further. We had electrol powder and Rahul started drinking water with that powder as he started feeling extremely sick as minutes passed. He decided that sleep was the best medicine and had a nap which lasted till Leh
Now the roads were brilliant most of the time with only bad stretches appearing when you cross a village on the highway. I had to get down many a times to clear stones from these stretches, with Rahul asleep and sick, there were traffic jams many a times behind because of me having to remove stones, get back in the car and repeat the ordeal whenever these patches appeared. Never the less, the last 50 kilometres towards Leh are an absolute delight and on some of the stretches I touched a cool 140 to 150, stretching the cars legs after long.
We had India's flag which we had placed on the rear window of the car flying all the way with us from the moment we left Kargil, here is a picture I clicked of the flag on the car when we had stopped the car at magnetic hill.
We entered Leh at 4 and parked ourselves at The Oriental Guest House. It costed us 1600 bucks per day including breakfast for both of us. Room was big, clean and had a large flat screen TV in them. Wifi and internet connection too, but that worked only in the Hotel lounge which had a small library attached to it too. Tired, we just slept off, only to be awakened by the dreaded headache and breathlessness again. Before entering the hotel, we had stopped at a chemist and asked him for a remedy to these headaches and breathing problems, he had given us a strip of pills which he best described as 'Oxygen Pills', increases the oxygen content in your blood. We took them in the night and next day we did feel like superman's.
More on our exploits further as the travelogue continues.