[Nonstop-driver]

Day 5 - 13 August 2013 - Kargil - Leh : Part 1

The plan was to start around 6 and do a leisure drive to Leh spending time at POIs and for photo-ops. However, the complimentary breakfast at the Hotel ensured that we leave around 0720. Couple of calls exchanged with Vishwas and it was decided to meet at the Petrol Bunk on the Leh road.

Getting ready, iPhone was put to good use by Cheena, while the morning hues displayed their colours all around



From our Hotel balcony

We met Vishwas and group at the Petrol Bunk, got the cheeta's thirst quenched with "Iraq ka paani" and started for our destination of the day - Leh.


Kargil town



While we had done our breakfast, Vishwas and group thought that they'll have it on the way. I told them to have whatever they can as soon as they can find it, otherwise it would only be available at Mulbekh. Since the destination for the day was just 212kms, it had to be a leisurely drive with many photo-stops. And they started soon after we drove ahead!


What's in your rear view mirror?



An army gypsey being towed away. By the time it reached Fotu La, rear left wheel of the gypsey came out as the axle broke. So much so for rescue service!!



The roads, except for initial 2-3 kms were fully tarred and wide. We crossed Vishwas and group on the way and drove forward towards Mulbekh. At one such photo-stop, they crossed us.





Some vistas enroute





Tried some macro shots at one such photo-stop





Soon we reached Mulbekh and regrouped. The Maitreya Buddha is bang on the road itself and it can't be missed.








Kids going to school.



The kids, when requested for a photograph, readily obliged. Seemingly they are accostomed to strangers asking to click their pics. They must be feeling weired!!

Sheperds with goats. Funnily enough, the sheperd asked for some money for tea. When we asked him to have tea at the dhaba, he denied!





And of course time for some group photographs





Soaking in the colours of Ladakh, we started ahead.




Can you notice the herd of goats and sheep?




Sun playing hide and seek with the mountains

Soon we crossed Namik La and kept the pedal on the metal


The weather was cloudy and the sun was enjoying playing hide and seek, giving different hues and colours to the mountains


Some more hide and seek pics



Crossing small hamlets


CONTD...

[Nonstop-driver]

Day 5 - 13 August 2013 - Kargil - Leh : Part 2

And mountains

Did you noticed the donkeys grazing?

With pedal on the metal, we soon crossed Khangral which seemed like a painting in Brown, Green and Yellow. Khangral had a big mosque under construction just on the roadside.




And then we reached Bodh Kharbu in short time. The bridge at Bodh Kharbu was under repair and hence we had to cross the river - literally! Only that there was no water

Sorry for the hazy picture. The car was literally jumping!



After Bodh Kharbu, we stopped along side the road, to test our strength in throwing stone to the largest distance


We drove ahead to see some more brown and hide and seek in action




Further around 1110 hrs, we reached Fotu La which happens to be the highest point on Srinagar-Leh route. The drive was rather a cakewalk compared to the Godzilla pass. This time we stopped again for some photo-op.



Horses carrying prayers, flying.


Seems that the new sign-boards have been put taking in consideration how easily to pronounce the names and hence "Fatula".

The road just ahead of Fotu La for about 300 meters was under repair, and BRO were on the job.




BRO workers, tired and trying to catch some sleep.



It is said that if you’re really sleepy, you can sleep anywhere -”Neend na jaane tooti khaat, bhookh na jaane jhootha bhaat”. How true!!

Within next 5-10 minutes of starting from Fotu La, we were at the start of Hangroo Loops. Interesting thing is that you rarely get anything written about these loops and at some places, people have conviniently named them the "Jalebi bends"! The descent from Fotu La (4100m) to Khaltse (3000m) through a series 23 hairpin bends in just 32 km is what Hangroo Loops consists of.





Hangroo Loops from the bottom.


By 1140, we reached Lamayuru, distinguished by it's own landscape - Lunar Landscape or Moonscapes. Interesting things that snow, rains and winds can do to a mountain!




The road, in the meantime, was through mountain gorges with Indus river to give company. Seemed that during recent rains, the river has gobbled up half of the road!


Though hungry, by the time we could stop for any dhaba, we had already crossed Lamayuru. So we stopped at a small dhaba just before Khaltse and had maggi & tea.



While maggi was being prepared, we explored the nearby cave formations.


Driving through the Khaltse, it was a bit crowded with lots of tourist vehicles and lots of dhabas. What I noticed again was the change in spelling. The signboards read "Khalsi" and even "Khaltsi".

Khaltse or Khalsi?


or may be Khaltsi??



After crossing the Khaltse bridge, we notice yet another colour of Ladakh - Green. Not the green by grass or vegetation, rather rocks coloured Green!


Further, driving along the Indus river...


At Nurla, some road construction was still going on while traffic was allowed on one lane.


CONTD...

[Nonstop-driver]

Day 5 - 13 August 2013 - Kargil - Leh : Part 3

We crossed yet another dilapidated bridge with pristine turquoise water flowing underneath.


And then started stretches of longer straight roads


And then we come across the longest straight road that we've seen yet. The black tarmac against a backdrop of brown looks absolutely fantastic! We get down again for some photo-op.




While shooting, we notice that front right tyre has lost air pressure. We took out our luggage from the boot to release the stepney and take out the OEM spanner. The moment Avi take out the spanner, I notice something abnormal. Normally the spanners are bent at 90 degrees so as to provide maximum torque to loosen the nuts. This one was at 120 degrees. The thought struck my mind immediately that this won't work. As expected, the spanner kept of slipping. Cheena had kept a toolbox with a set of square drive socket set (or "goti" as we call it). We take it out and try, but we do not have long enough handle to exert the pressure. This could be drastic (and it did proved so! that story later)




I suggest them to take out the air compressor and fill the air as normally tubeless tyres go comfortably to long distances since it doesn't goes flat immediately. So we fill some air and decide to seek the first available puncture repair shop.

We fill air


and we drive ahead

Couple of kilometers ahead is Nimmo and we find a puncture repair shop. The mechanic was working on a truck tyre and when we asked him for the repair, he said that he will repair the tyre, but we'll have to take it out! Ridiculous!!


We decide to drive ahead as Leh was now hardly 36 kms ahead. I knew that once we reach Lehling Nuwang, which is just after the airport before we enter the main town area, our problems will be resolved. In this melee, we do not stop at the Zanskar-Indus Sangam viewpoint, just a glance and we speed ahead.


We cross Magnetic Hill and I convince everyone that the phenomenon is just a mirage and everything around it is a farce. However, the low air pressure warning again forces us to stop. We again fill the air. Leh is still 28kms away.




While filling the air, we notice a vehicle trying offroading climbing on the hill. I remember this place - Tanveer has a record here!! Some other time perhaps!!!


Gurudwara Shri Pathar Sahib demanded a break and we did put the brakes on the Cheetah! After having a tour of the Gurudwara, we did had the langar and tea as well. This is entirely maintained by the armed forces and we met a couple of personnel who had came on leave to do the kar-sewa.

History of the place


The rock


Having tea




Lamas coming out of Gurudwara Pather Sahib

After having yet another round of air-filling, we noticed that we were able to hear the sound of air escaping the tyres, but it was not the valve. Fortunately, Leh was now just a couple of kilometers and finally we did encountered the board welcoming us to Leh.


We directly went to Lehling Nuwang Motors and told the mechanics about the problem in hand. They had a look at the spanner and immediately told that this would not work. We told them about our set of square drive sockets and they used one with a long elbow rod to open the nuts, apparently without any problems. They advised that we would require a long elbow rod to provide the necessary force.


Snow capped peaks as viewed from Lehling Nuwang


Immediately after getting the tyres opened, we went to a puncture repair shop, on the other side of the road and got it repaired. We also purchased a long elbow rod, just in case.

All done, we went ahead to our Hotel - Hotel Jorchung at Main Tukcha Road.


Couple of phone calls exchanged with Vishwas and we learn that they're going to reside at some homestay near the polo ground. We decide to meet at DC office tomorrow at 10. Evening is spent leisurely at the hotel itself and then after dinner, we call it a day and retire to our beds.

[Nonstop-driver]

Day 6 - 14 Aug : Leh Permits - Part 1

Although this was a day primarily for permits, we still got up early around 0600. After freshening up, we hopped on the hotel roof to see what it offers. Whoa! Amazing!!

We can see ice capped peaks!


A little closer


Leh Palace from the hotel roof


Shanti Stupa


Hotel Jorchung


Another set of snow capped peaks


Now some more clouds


Li'l bit closer to one of the peaks


And the others


What is this? We've gone bonkers, you know!!


Horses carrying prayers, everywhere

Cheena also tried some macros





It's a chilli!















Meanwhile, I try a panorama shot at the roof


And shoot the peaks on the other side





Two tasks for the day were earmarked - 1. to get the permits and 2. to get the car serviced as we experienced loss of power yesterday. It was decided that we'd split in two's groups, me and Tony going for the Permits and Cheena and Avi for the car service.

After getting ready leisurely, had some aloo-parathas with ample butter for the breakfast. At 1000, we thought of going to DC office, but the map showed it at some distance and there was no public conveyance available. It was decided that Cheena will drop us at the DC office before going to Lehling Nuwang. In the meantime, Vishwas called to inform that they'd be reaching DC office shortly.

We reached DC office. We already had the permit form filled in, courtsey some great posts by Tanveer. We had practically filled everything in Places to visit space. I got my ID proof copied and we went to the DC office to submit the application. The permits were being issued in the room located left to the gate. The arrangement there was that 3 persons were sitting adjascent to each other. I had attached only one copy of the form and the lady at the counter asked me to attach one more copy. A trip again to the photostat shop, came back, paid the requisite fee and everything was done within 40 minutes. Only place struck off the list was Rezang La, but then I knew that permits to Rezang La were never issues, but since the War Memorial at Chusul is also called Rezang La war memorial, hence put that. Gave a copy to Vishwas et,el also to fill the same places since they'd also be following our itinerary. Helped a couple of more people in getting the places listed. Got 20 copies of the permits done and we were all set! Yay!!

Going to get the photocopies done


The permit - stamped

In the meanwhile, Cheena & Avi shoot the area nearby




Preparation for Independence Day celebrations

For reference, I'd put the permit process here:

1. You write an application, addressed to the DC about your intent to visit Ladakh, number of people, mode of travel and place of stay.
2. Attach two copies of the filled application form with places to visit, name along with father's name and address.
3. Attach photo ID proof for each of the traveller - any government photo ID will do. Having address on the photo ID is not necessary. (We used PAN Cards)
4. Submit the application at the first counter for scrutiny. The form will then be passed on to the next counter.
5. Pay the Red Cross donation of Rs 20 per person. You'll be handed over receipt and the application will be passed to the third counter.
6. Pay the requisite environment fee (Rs. 200 Per person), and permit fee (Rs 20 per person per day) which is dependent on the number of days of your visit. You'll be handed over a receipt, some tickets - one per person in the application, and one original copy your permit application form duly signed and stamped.
7. Rush again to the photcopier and make 10-20 copies of the permits to be submitted at checkposts (ID proof are not required to be submitted at chekposts)
8. Write down the Name of the Driver, Driving Licence Number, Vehicle Number, Number of people according to gender, coming from and going to information at the back of each copy and keep it handy. This would save a lot of time at the checkposts.
9. Since the permit fee is based on the number of days and not on the number of places, my advise would be to jot down everything under places to visit - Khardung La, Nubra Valley, Turtuk, Panamik, Pangong Tso, Marsimek La, Man, Merak, Chusul, Tsaga La, Kakasang La, Loma, Nyoma, Mahe, Hanle, Tso Moriri, Hanle.
10. Since it hardly takes 1 hour of time, it would be good if you yourselves can go for the permit application. With an agent, permits for Turtuk, Chusul, Tsaga La and Kakasang La may not be provided (and the agents will insist that they are not required!).

Interestingly, Cheena and Avi decided to wait for us and since we got through within 40 minutes, we went together to Lehling Nuwang. We got the car serviced, but refused for a wash as we wanted to keep the dust as a testimony to Ladakh! When we told the head mechanic - Ravi about the power loss, he asked his people to check the Air filter and Diesel Filter. Vicky, a punjab native was the mechanic working on our Cheetah. He opened up the air filter and Oh boy! It was completely clogged with dust, even a bird feather! Change it? No! The vehicle hadn't done even 20k so we asked just to clean it and put it back. Same goes for the diesel filter. It was clogged too and vicky advised of a replacement. A little sweet talk and he confided that a thorough pressure wash with some petrol and then diesel will make it new! So we got it done. Total dent - INR 500!

While getting the car serviced, I started talking to the head mechanic - Ravi. He came to be from a nearby place to my native. He then confided that he has his own vehicles in Leh which were mostly in service of foreigner tourists and at times he also goes with them on trips. He also informed that during November to March, he mostly works as a tour guide throughout India to his foreign friends!


CONTD...

[Nonstop-driver]

Day 6 - 14 Aug : Leh Permits - Part 2

After getting the service done, I checked with Cheena if we were missing anything from the checklist for the vehicle and he confirmed that he hadn't stocked coolant. As tomorrow we'd be hitting Khardung La, I didn't wanted to take chance and hence advised stocking at least 2 litres of coolant. Done!

By 1200 hrs, we were back at Jorchung. Now what? Nearest is Shanti Stupa which is visible from the Hotel itself. No! Being the Athiest that I am, I'm not interested. Second, I also know that there are several hundreds of steps to the stupa. Given the family pack ab that I have, I don't want to do that either. (P.S.: I didn't knew that there is a motorable road right up to the Stupa). Third, I have already seen world's largest peace pagoda aka Shanti Stupa at Vaishali, Bihar.

Other places? We've seen the Jorawar fort on way. Ok, ok! We just passed by it. But it's not that impressive either!!

Shey/Thiksey/Likir/Fort - No No No! I'm not interested. I'll just lazy off and build my family pack ab! (P.S.: People who know me are very well aware that I'm too fond of sleeping. I can sleep upto 22 hours at a stretch!). And in any case, I'd been there numerous number of times. Why not have some apricots and apples instead from the hotel window?

So Tony, Cheena and Avi go to visit the Shanti Stupa and I go to my favourite passtime - deep sleep. Here are some pics taken by Cheena and Avi.





That’s Stok-Kangri on the centre-right!




Marker to show the direction and aerial distance to Khardung La




Buddha Statue at Shanti Stupa





By 1450, they came back while I was talking to some bees. It was decided that we will explore the market for lunch and otherwise as well.




We went along the fort road, explored a couple of shops, enquired about a couple of itmes only to realize that they were quoted too expensive. There was a Tibbetian Refugee market. We entered and enquired about some flags. 50 Rupee a piece. But the shop there was selling it for Rs 40 only. Oh! So you are here just to pass time, not to purchase anything. The lady retorted. And then obviously she went attending some foreigner customers. Cheena took offensive. I wanted to get a prayer wheel at least from Leh. No way, she's not even looking at us, lets go!

Finally around 1540, we entered a cafe at first floor on the fort road. A gentleman came and very courteously asked us to take seats. Hmmm so the reception is good. What shall we have? Something traditional! So we enquire.. what is thupka. Noodles with soup and lots of veggies. Veggies? We are certified omnivorous. Anything with chicken? Oh yes! Thupka can be chicken thupka as well. Bring on! Anything else? This would enough for you sir! Nah!! Let us decide that part. Bring on the Thupka and we'll decide on the next course later on. Sir! it will take 15-20 minutes if you order later. No problemo! We have all the time with us


So thupka it is. Tony being the self-vowed vegetarian, goes for veg Thupka. After 15 minutes, Thupkas arrive. Yummy! We have discovered something!!


What next? Kothey? What are they? Sir these are kind of momos, fried on one side. Let's try! Bring on! Chicken Kothey for three of us and veg for Tony. Delicious they are!! It's again a discovery!


Being the veggie and disadvantaged, I'll have banana chocolate pancake too - Tony argues! No problemo! We'll share!! Tasty it is!


Now what? How can we move without having tea? Butter Tea? No sir! It won't be available here. Ok, No problemo. Bring on the masala tea. Good it was too!


Overall, we spent 2 hours and 1200 Rupees and then started walking back to the Hotel. The time already had gone past 1745.

Sunbeam Cafe it is!

Walking back, we again pass by the refugee market and I decide to take my chances. We enter again. I want the prayer wheel. It's 950! What?? How can you charge this much when the same is available cheaper elsewhere? This is sturdy and they are not so strong, besides it seems you people are not serious on buying. How come? We came here again! We have to purchase, provided you quote reasonable rate. Ok 750 is final. No! I can pay only 600 for one and we want two of them! 50 rupaya bhi nahin bachega isme to! Koi baat nahin, hum chalte hain. Ok ok, wait. Take it. So 1200 for two prayer wheels, how much the other shop quoted? 900!! Same goes for flags.. we bag a pack of 5 for 200. Meanwhile, Cheena picks up the small flag set for 35. Done!

We walk back to Hotel. Tonight we won't have regular dinner. We just had ample to fill the stomach. So it is just eggs, chips, salad, biscuits and juice.

And then, the disaster strikes!

Around 2000 hrs, Tony says that his head seems to be too heavy. Perhaps he's hit by AMS!! Then goes a long discussion on what to do. Tony says that we should stick to our plan and depart for Turtuk tomorrow while he will try to get a flight to Delhi. What the hell!! We can't just go like this! We've come so far, not to leave anyone behind. I reason with Tony. Look, we have got a buffer day in 20th/21st when we'll be spending two nights at Chandratal. We can also shorten our plan from Turtuk and Deskit nights and still manage to be on the plan. Let's stay here for tomorrow too and in the meantime, you start taking diamox. If by tomorrow night also your condition doesn't improves, then we'll arrange for a flight for you and then we'll carry on further. After a lot of reasoning and discussion, we all agree on the approach.

I inform Vishwas of the situation and advise them to carry on with the itinerary and that we'll catch up with them later, probably at Pangong. I also meet, Sonam - the owner of Jorchung to convey him the message that probably we may not be leaving tomorrow morning, but will confirm in the morning. Hope is still lingering...

Having finished everything for the day and settled for the plan tomorrow, we retire to our beds.

[Nonstop-driver]

Day 7 - 15 Aug : Leh

At around 0330 hrs, Tony wakes me up stating that he has heavy and unbearable headache and pain in the legs. He further says that probably it would be better for him to catch a flight to Delhi. I ask him to be patient and knock Cheena's room as all the baggages were kept there and the medicines too. I hand over a combiflam to Tony and ask him to keep one handy to be taken around 0930 if the pain still persists. We go back to our room and I talk through Tony to calm and relax his mind so that he can sleep. Cheena says that he has heard that person hit by AMS shouldn't sleep. What the hell! My own cure for any pain or ache is just a good 8-9 hours sleep and this should work for Tony too.

I assure Tony that if the pain and AMS doesn't gets better by evening, I'll get a flight ticket arranged for him. With the assurance with him, Tony goes to sleep. I advise everyone not to wake him up unless he himself is up.

We wake up leisurely as none of us had any interest to walk up to Polo Ground to see the processions. Tony also had an uneventful sleep, however, he says that he's still feeling a bit heavy. No problem. We'll just loiter around today with no agenda.

It had rained during the night and the caretaker is wiping the water off the floor. I start talking to him - Shyam Sunder is the name. Shyam Sunder is from Giridih in Jharkhand and comes every year to Leh to work in Hotels/Guest Houses. He'll go back in November and then again come back in April. Mode? By train till Jammu and then shared taxis to Leh, which can take upto 5-6 days! He says that though the hotel owners are willing to provide ticket expenses, he doesn't resorts to the same as otherwise he would be bound with a particular Hotel. So coming on his own gives him the freedom to work for any Hotel that pays him the most! Further, he tells me that most of the people working in Hotels and BRO are from Jharkhand, those in fields are from Nepal and those in shops are locals, so there is a division of work and nobody challenges the status quo thus maintaining their peace and livelihood.

Shyam Sunder gives me some information about Jorchung - that Sonam himself works with the DC office! What?? Had we known, we could have asked him for the permits. But then we might not have got the permits for Turtuk, Chusul & Tsaga La. He also informs that Sonam's Sis-in-Law is working at the Leh Airport. Cool!! If required, we can ask Sonam to arrange for the tickets.

I got down and asked for Sonam, discussed with him that we need to stay for today too and most probably we will be leaving tomorros. I also inform him that if required, we will entail the services of his Sis-in-Law to get the tickets for Tony. Apparently, lot many visitors via HVK were supposed to come today and Sonam said that he'll have to see if he could find a room in Jorchung, otherwise he'll arrange for us in another hotel. Half an hour later, he informed that one room is getting vacated and we just need to shift there. Phew! We'll not have to go anywhere else.

So we complete our breakfast and come up to our rooms. We pluck some apricots and apples from the branches hanging just outside the room window, and try some snaps.


Plucking some apricots


Close up of a bunch


Apple


Kids passing by, in the backlanes


That's a reflection in the window-pane!


Vistas from the room


For lunch, we again go to Sunbeam cafe and again have the same things - Sunbeam cafe - Thupka, Kothey & egg banana chocolate pancake & tea.

Just when we're back to Jorchung, Cheena receives a call. The call was from one of his friends who incidently at Leh and leaving tomorrow. So while Cheena goes to meet her, we go back to slumber.

Around 1900, Avi wakes me up stating that Cheena has come back with his friend and I should meet her. So we meet. She's working with INTAC on archeology and had been excavating a Gompa which was buried in landslide. The work is finished now and they'll be going back to Delhi tomorrow. Cheena tells us that he, Avi and his friend had already been to the Shanti Stupa and in fact they came earlier too around 1600, but I was fast asleep.

Some more pics of Shanti Stupa from their visit:




Marker to Leh Palace


Marker to Stok villege




Mahaparinirvana


The birth - folklore states that Buddha walked 7 steps just after being born and at every step, a lotus flower bloomed


Maar tried different methods to disturb Buddha's meditation - he ultimately failed!


Dhamma-Chakra


She's staying near the German Bakery, so we walk towards her hotel to drop her as well as loiter around in the market. The walk had another objective too - we need to purchase some onions and bell pepper for the maggi's that we have. Since tomorrow onwards we would not be returning to Leh or any decent town, we should procure them here itself. So we drop her to her hotel and go to market. After strolling the entire market, we couldn't find onions. On a shop where we procured the bell peppers, the Kashmiri shopkeeper explained that since the supplies come via Jammu-Srinagar route, no trucks have reached Leh in last couple of days (bandh & curfew to blame again) and hence the onions would not be available for couple of more days.

We cross through Datun Sahib ji Gurudwara and walk back to our hotel. The Shanti Stupa is looking very attractive in the lighting that has been done. Cheena dashes out again to click some pic.


Shanti Stupa at night

We have our dinner and then I ask Tony the long awaited question - How is he feeling? Perfectly fine!!!

Peacefully, we go to sleep for tomorrow is a long drive ahead which is manned by the K-Top.

[ani_meher]

Great photo - log man! Keep it up. Any story behind the group name?

One request, the website logo right in the middle is quite a sore eye for many beautiful pictures. If possible, you can keep it to a corner like the teambhp logo on the left bottom side.

[Nonstop-driver]

Originally Posted by ani_meher

...the website logo right in the middle is quite a sore eye for many beautiful pictures...

Thanks ani_meher!

About watermarking the images, unfortunately it has become the necessary evil. I do keep watermark at transparency of 10% so for most of the images, you'd hardly notice that. It only becomes apparent when the background is a little bit dark.

I do not like watermarking at corners/bottoms as people just crop it and use it as their own. There could be a long discussion on pros and cons though. Sorry about that!

P.S.: If you want any of non-watermarked image in particular, do let me know and I'll be happy to provide the same.

[YanTra Makto]

Lovely snaps man,
especially the ones from the Hotel (windows, vistas etc). This hotel seems to be a good one.
One request, keep them coming !

Regards

[Nonstop-driver]

Originally Posted by YanTra Makto

This hotel seems to be a good one.

Thanks buddy!

Indeed Hotel Jorchung is a good place to stay at leh. Though it is a bit expensive than the others, I'd say this is worth it's value. Thanks to HVK to arrange this one for me.

The t-log will continue, in fact it has just started!!

[Nonstop-driver]

Day 8 : 16 August 2013 : Part 1.1 - Leh to Khardung La Top

We got up early in the morning and had our bath etc, for this probably would probably be the last place before we reach Keylong to have a bath.

While having breakfast, we talked to the two gentleman from Mumbai who were staying in the hotel for couple of days with some expensive photography equipment. One of them was an avid bird watcher and another a hiker who were planning to camp at Tso Moriri for couple of days to locate and identify some new migratory birds. Told them about WWF camp at Korzok as they might be helpful to them in their quest. Bid goodbye to them wishing that we shall meet again at Tso Moriri.

The breakfast and chit-chat at Jorchung means that we start only by 0730. We first rush to the petrol bunk at Leh-Manali route as this is the only one in and around Leh to get relatively cleaner fuel. Getting the tank full is also necessary considering that the next fuel stop would be at Karu after two days, since we would not be coming back to Leh and going to Pangong via Wari La. This, however, also means a return journey of extra 10-12 kms.



By 0800 hrs, we're back in Leh town area. We cross this gate



We take right on a road which unlikely seems to be a national highway, but the signboard proclaims so and we believe it rather than the onboard MMI GPS navigator, which we know fails in Ladakh at times. The first stop is at Takski CP.



We proceed ahead to see roads cut on mountains. These roads are different. Usually we've seen mountain roads going in circles around the mountain, gradually gaining height. Here, it is different - you see many switchbacks, in "Z" shape that quickly provides the elevation.






Shanti Stupa at distance

Tsemo Gompa is so near, but didn't I said that I'm not interested!


The road is fully tarred and we're are going ahead quickly gaining height.


That's just one switchback!

Just then we hear a croak...



The Khardung La frog has just seen us. We have to meet him!





We drive ahead.. tarmac is good and numerous switchbacks provide quick elevation ensuring that we reach the clouds...


We have to go there


a look below


In the clouds

On the way, we also meet these..



We drive ahead and reach South Pullu CP.



And by the time permit checks are being done, these also reach South Pullu. Trekking to K-Top?



After permit checks, we drive ahead to see that the road has vanished with tracks on mud, slush and pebbles with poodles all around.





Yesterday, Vishwas had called up to inform that it was snowing at K-top and that it was too cold and they were hardly able to breathe. I was a bit worried whether we would be able to see some snowfall today. However, the snow all around gave some assurance. So we stop.




Feeling the snow

At one point, the slush ensured that the vehicle would not move forward easily. The loss in engine power coupled with lots of lugguage ensured that it would not buzz. We decided to offload 160kgs of lugguage then and there... So Tony and I get off


Till the point that the car would be comfortable taking us in again.

The no-road continued, with some big-sized rocks falling on the road. Luckily, we escape unharmed.







The snow is increasing And then we saw the first traffic in opposite direction. There are some structures behind.. could that be K-Top?





We drive ahead and see a cell tower. This has to be the K-Top!



And finally we come across the signboard. Yesss! We've reached Khardung La Top!! The time is 1000 hrs.





CONTD...

[Nonstop-driver]

Day 8 : 16 August 2013 : Part 1.2 - Leh to Khardung La Top

Ecstatic, we jump out of the car, and yes! The snowfall is there... and so is the rains! I feel much comfortable in cold, so I was just wearing a cotton T-shirt, but the rains nessesitated use of at least a windcheater!



This is the first time in life that I'm witnessing snowfall.. and I do notice that the snowflakes are exactly like the way they are depicted on Christmas Greeting Cards!



Time for some shots.. afterall you don't visit K-Top daily unless you are a tourist taxi driver in Leh!


Me and Avi


The 2C's - Cheetah & Cheena, posing together


Ecstatic with joy.. finally I'm here!


Tony & me


Let's try some snowballing - Cheena & me


A group shot - me, Avi, Cheena & Tony (in that order from left)

Rest of the fellow are feeling very cold and are in need for some tea. So it's the black tea with some good day biscuits



We finish the tea and plan to drive ahead, but then first we need to capture this!



I went to the souvenier shop to see if they have a cap with them as I'm not carrying one, but they say that caps and hats are out of stock. We spend around 50 minutes on the top, contrary to the advisory. Luckily, none of us feel anything unusual, not even Tony!

Next: Drive from Khardung La Top to Nubra Valley

CONTD...

[alfaromeo1984]

Lovely pictures nonstop-driver especially the shots of the valley where all different shades of brown can be seen. The ones at khardungla are also amazing. In one trip you ll have experienced all the different types of climates that mother nature offers. It must have been difficult to drive to the k-top with the rocks falling.

Anyways keep it coming sir.

[Nonstop-driver]

Originally Posted by alfaromeo1984

It must have been difficult to drive to the k-top with the rocks falling.

Thanks for the compliments.

The drive to K-top was not difficult, rather scary and that also from the point of getting a dent in the vehicle. Otherwise, it is a joy!

Next leg coming in couple of hours.

[Nonstop-driver]

Day 8 : 16 August 2013 : Part 2.1 - Khardung La Top to Hunder

We start our decent from the Khardung La Top and we see that the BRO are on the job, even in snow and rain.



We move ahead on serpentine, crossing many small streams..





And some unfortunate ones....



We see a beautiful scene ahead - a small temple on a small island formed due to various streams flowing. Calls for a photo-op!









The tarmac has returned..



And at a distance below, we can see some settlement.. got to be North Pullu.



North Pullu it is and the watch reads 1140 hrs. Time for some stomach-stuffing, but before that let's get our permits submitted.





And now what? Maggi? Bread-Omelette? Tea? We'll have all! Bring it on!!!







And by the way, who is this Tau jee? Ummm.. Sorry! What is this Tau Jee??


In the meantime, a Lama is impressed by the Cheetah.


Some pics of snow-peaks at North Pullu...





After spending around 40 minutes at North Pullu, we drive ahead around 1210. A small rivulet is giving company..

Hello! Wonder how I reached here?


Hunder is still 64 kms..


Will be taking that road soon


That's a bridge and shortcut. Interested? No, the Cheetah can't go that route!


BRO are working, so there has to be a road ahead.


Nallah? What nallah? Do I look filthy?? I flow wherever I wish. Man can't tame me. It's my way, not the highway!


And presenting the gateway to Hunder valley


another view


The serpentine, this time the rivulet


Drive carefully or you'll fly like me


Rivulet alongside road. I'm on a journey, to meet Shyok!



CONTD...