[dhanushmenon]

Fantastic travelogue sumit.
Amply supplemented with beautiful pictures.

Leh and Himachal is a long cherished dream for me.
Only that the time and space is not coming together to fall in place.

Wishing you many many more happy miles.
Enjoyed each and every snap in your log. Tells a story in itself

[swsumit]

Originally Posted by neel385

Great write up with good details of the places you have been to as well as the places themselves! Nice pics too!!

The route seems to be off the beaten track, so, how did you decide on this route?

Hello Neel ,
I finalised the route reading the travellogues of so many before me who have done the same. I just modified the route to suit myself.

regards

Originally Posted by parrys

Brilliant set of pictures.
Did you remove the SD card and sort the images out daily? If not, you really have a good memory.

Starting from post#6, the pictures get even better.

Hello ,
No i did not remove the SD card , its just that i have been so moved by this trip that it has imprinted itself on me.
regards

Originally Posted by Dry Ice

Superb pics! I was assuming it was done on an SUV until I saw the boot pic! Kudos for attempting the so-called "SUV" territory in a sedan. Haven't really read the entire log, will go through slowly .

Hello ,
well the Logan performed really well though the conditions were also favourable.You can see the video of it crossing the Chotta Dara on the FB page of TBHP.

regards

Originally Posted by motomaverick

Awesome log coupled with really good pictures. Spiti Valley is definitely the next destination for me. The land of the Gods as they say. So you did not carry any oils for the car including engine oil?

hello ,
I did love the Ladakh trip that you did .
I carried engine oil and coolant for the trip.
regards

Originally Posted by dhanushmenon

Fantastic travelogue sumit.
Amply supplemented with beautiful pictures.

Leh and Himachal is a long cherished dream for me.
Only that the time and space is not coming together to fall in place.

Wishing you many many more happy miles.
Enjoyed each and every snap in your log. Tells a story in itself

Hello ,
guess it will come soon enough

regards

[swsumit]

DAY X – KAZA TO DHANKAR GOMPA ( 84 KM)
1. After the long previous day we got up to a splendid morning at our hotel which is actually located in an extremely serene surrounding with the hills rising up in the distance. After a hearty breakfast the first thing I did was to get the car washed by the team of the hotel itself and they did a good job of it .The agenda for the day was a visit to Dhankar Gompa and Pin valley if circumstances permit. I had reached where i had set out to be 10 days ago from the western seashores and 2590 km distant apart transversing six states.

2. By 0845 hrs we were off and our first stop was the highest retail petrol pump in the world at 12270 feet operated by IOC.There was a wait out there as there was no electricity supply since the previous night and the generator was not online. However soon they were able to start the generator and I topped up the INDOMITABLE. The next stop was the Maruti Service Centre where I had to finalise the final logistical requirement of ensuring the spares needed were transported from Mandi to Manali.That done after a series of phone calls and we were off towards Schling from where the left diversion takes one to Dhankar Gompa situated at a height of 12774 feet. The Gompa is over 1000 years old and is situated overlooking a cliff and one can see the spiti and pin rivers meeting. Hence the name Dhankar meaning “fort on a cliff “and was in ancient times the capital of the Spiti Kingdom. We went first to the old gompa which is managed these days by junior monks and were shown the three caves which are open to visitors. The remaining rooms containing sacred manuscripts and paintings are all locked up. It was my first visit to a Gompa and I really felt quite good and happy to have come here all the way from Mumbai.

3. After spending a good amount of time we then decided to visit the new gompa .At the new gompa I decided to give it a miss as I wanted to visit Dhankar Lake which was around one hour trek from the road. This was one of the three lakes that I had wanted to visit and I was determined to see the lake. Asking the initial directions I set off, the climb actually took my breath away owing to the steepness and the sharp pace that I was setting .Literally struggling and with a will to continue I finally reached the lake surrounded by mountains on three sides and with not a single soul in sight during the entire trek or at the site of the lake.

4. I had the entire lake to myself and I firstly sat sound to get my breath back and offer thanks to the local stupa out there. There after I soaked in the feeling of having made it and the scenic beauty of the place and I marvelled at the thought of the beauty of this place during the winter with the snows all around. By the time I reached back it was close to evening and we had a late lunch at the restaurant at the Gompa itself.

5. We then started back towards Kaza for I wanted to check the status of the spare that was also travelling and was about to reach Manali around this time and I wanted to be present in telephonic range when the next crucial part of its journey towards Kaza commenced in case some issues came up. Finally after a few telephone calls the item was safely deposited in a taxi bound for Kaza and thereafter I made my way back to Rangrik .I was not able to visit Pin Valley because I had spent quite some time in the Gompa as well as the trek and had to be back to the service centre too in time.

6. It is interesting to note that Kaza has been without any STD connection for more than a year now and there are actually no STD booths in the entire region that are functioning. Hence it is imperative to have BSNL prepaid connection in these parts. There is one internet VSAT connection at Kaza but the charges are extremely high and the speed is quite slow. Power cuts have been the norm this year with no electricity for more than 48 hours at a stretch on may occasions. The petrol pump too thus cannot guarantee a assured supply at all times.

7. Final Odometer for the day. Rangrik: 57075 – Rangrik: 57159

[swsumit]

DAY XI – RANGRIK TO KE GOMPA ( 92 KM)
1. This was second day at the Spiti Valley and the agenda was to visit Langza, KE Monastery and Khibber Village and if possible try to also see the villages of Hikkim and Komic.There had been no power the entire previous day and so our camera batteries were in a dangerously low state but then there was nothing that we could do about it.

2. I topped up the petrol once again as today would be my final day out here and I had an early start tomorrow morning towards Lossar and visit Chandertaal.But coming back to the present day , the first destination was Langza which was situated at a diversion just before Kaza if one approaches from Rangrik towards Kaza.One has to take the upper diversion towards Langza and it is a steep climb all the way and as one approaches the Langza village there is suddenly greenery all around .The prominent feature at Langza is the Buddha statue which is overlooking the mountain ranges with the Chau Chau Kang Nilda peak in the background; the princess mountain on which the sun and moon shine.Langza is at a height of 14435 feet. The Gompa was closed when I reached the place but I was happy to have seen the iconic statue of Lord Buddha in a totally serene and majestic sorrounding.After spending around 30 minutes out there we decided to proceed toward Hikkim but then considering that the car had not been topped up with gear oil since the time I had arrived in Kaza I decided not to go towards Hikkim but rather made my way back towards Ke Gompa .The road to Ke Gompa is quite good and one can see the Spiti river in the distance and even Rangrik village on a clear day.Ke Gompa is situated at a height of 13668 ft and is the biggest monastery in the Spiti Valley and is often called as the Ajanta of the Himalayas.

3. There were not many tourists out there and we were shown around by one of the monks and thereafter we were offered herbal tea. During the time we were interacting with the monks I came to know that in that region every Tibetan household has to send their second born son to the monastery to lead the life of a monk. This was news to me and as I pondered over it I could see young boys already settling into monastic life at such a young age of around 10-12 years. I regarded the visit to Ke Gompa as a very fulfilling visit and worth every inch of my drive to this region. After spending a considerable time over there we decided to move towards Khibber which has the distinction of being the second highest motorable road in the world at 14200 ft.

4. Kibber is a scenic village and we had lunch out there at Tashi Gong Guest House. There is a village ahead of Kibber which can only be accessed by a rope way and it goes by the name Chicchim.Tashigong too is on a diversion on the way to Kibber but the road is only for SUVs. The sedan just could not attempt and at least in the condition in which I was presently with the gear oil leak I did not even wish to considering the odds at stake.

5. We then proceeded back to Kaza and did some shopping at the local market and from there went to the service centre which gave me the welcome news that the spare had indeed arrived and in the next hour or so we were able to renew the defective part and I had a big smile on my lips seeing the INDOMITABLE back on track.

6. Tomorrow we leave this beautiful valley behind and move towards Lossar and beyond and attempt the daunting Kunzum Pass and the famous nallahs at Chotta Dara and Grampoo.

7. Odometer for the day .Rangrik:57159 – Rangrik: 57251

[swsumit]

DAY XII – RANGRIK TO LOSSAR ( 60 KM)

DESTINATION : LOSSAR, HIMACHAL

1. So my time in the Spiti Valley was coming to an end as i prepared to journey towards Lossar and this marked the graduation of my Expedition in to the terminal phase but what lay ahead was discouraged by many to not be attempted especially in the INDOMITABLE. But the situation had shaped up in a way to propel me to attempt which in the initial planning phase was not even considered by me.

2. I was planning to tackle the dangers of Chhota Dara ,Batal-Grampoo stretch in a sedan and then drive all the way back to where i had begun this fantastic journey "The Land Of Seven Islands-Mumbai".Anyways that was to come tomorrow , for today I had a easy run to Lossar and then attempt the trek to "Lake of the Moon-ChanderTaal"

3. After a hearty breakfast we started towards Lossar and bid adieu to the Kaza Valley and I knew that I would definitely be back to this place nestled so far away from the maddening world that I have been living in the years to come. Our journey was to take us through some small villages and at an average elevation of 4000 mts.

4. But fate somehow had something else stored for us as my companion was not feeling too good this morning and as the journey progressed so did his health deteriorate. Though I was carrying a basic medicine kit to cover most issues he did insist on his own medication and somehow we were not able to provide relief , but there was no way other than the way forward and so I told him to hold on as I moved ahead as fast as I could .Finally as we were reaching Lossar his condition did improve and he started feeling better but was weak .I reached Lossar by 1130 hrs .

5. I must say that Kaza-Losar route is one of the real beauties of Spiti Valley. The views are just extra ordinary and we passed sumling , Moorang,Hull,Kiatoand Hanse villages. The Ke Monastery beckoned us in the distance sparkling in the morning sun nestled high up in the mountains as we continued our journey. Reaching Lossar I found out the place that we were staying and got the place opened up, yes we were the only guests that day out there. I debated the visit to Chandertaal but my companion was in no condition to undertake the same and I did not feel comfortable leaving him and attempting the trek alone so dropped the plan of Chandertaal, at least in this trip.

6. The day was spent in leisurely exploring the village of Lossar, interacting with the teaching staff of the government senior secondary school and generally doing nothing great. The power was not available as usual but by now i had grown used to the idea of staying without power for extended duration of time. As the evening approached we were treated to delicious dinner cooked on homemade sigri, I really do not know what it is called and ate our dinner in the warmth of burning wood and solar lights.

7. Tomorrow would be a crucial test for me as well as the INDOMITABLE as we cross the treacherous Nullahs , conquer two passes and reach the maddening civilization that we really did not miss these past 12 days.

8. Odometer for the day. Rangrik: 57251 - Lossar: 57308

[royalbeat]

Awesome TL. Great pics too

I can really feel for you during the part when you noticed the leaking gear oil. It would have been quite a tough decision to continue driving in such a terrain given the other externalities.

Spiti is high on my wish-list. Probably next year. Your TL would surely be very handy while preparing my itinerary.

[anks_at]

Enjoying your travelogue.
Eagerly waiting for the next part ...

[swsumit]

DAY XIII – LOSSAR TO MANALI ( 152 KM)

DESTINATION : MANALI, HIMACHAL

1. The day started early and it was really cold out when i went to prepare the INDOMITABLE for the trip ahead. As he was warming up we loaded the entire luggage and took a thermos of hot tea with us for the day ahead. By 0700 hrs we were ready to roll once again.

2. The road actually deteriorated immediately after the village and it was all big rocks that could easily create any kind of a major issue in the undercarriage, so progress was slow and in the first gear or maybe second gear all the way. The scenic beauty of the place was mesmerising as we were stopping again and again to click pictures though i knew that i had to hurry to cross as many Nullahs as possible before noon time. But when one is in the land of the Gods what can one do other than be awestruck.

3. There was hardly any other soul on the road in the morning as we continued forward with our first target being Kunzum Pass and visiting the shrine of Kunzum Mata.Kunzum pass was reached at 0840 hrs and is situated at an elevation of 4950 mt(15000 ft).The Sigri Peak and Bara-Sigri Glacier which is the second longest glacier could be seen clearly in the morning sunshine as we paid our obescience to the shrine. It is said that all vehicles have to take go around the shrine in order to ensure that they complete what lay ahead without any failures. We too did the same and spend some amount of time out there .Kunzum Pass connects the Lahul Valley with the Spiti Valley.The pass closes in winter on account of heavy snowfall.The pass is unique bcoz on one side one can see the snow covered peaks of the ChandraBaga range while on the other side is the cold desert of the Spiti Valley.The pass has its own will as the winter approaches but for now it was devoid of any snow.

4. From Kunzum pass we ascended towards Batal but first on the agenda was the diversion to Chander Taal which arrived after 08 kms and there is a board too informing those who wish to deviate. The road on which we were travelling was extremely narrow and hugging the mountain side with loose gravel and stones. Definitely not a pleasure to drive upon. The car did take a few hits on the under guard due to loose flying stones and that did worry me .Batal was reached by 0943 and then i hurried on to Chotta Dara.I met Akshay at Batal who had made some new friends and soon we were introduced all around and thereafter we proceeded in a loose knit group.

5. I was lucky to cross Chhota Dara without any incident and i did a recce of the same before attempting it. It consists of two streams at two paces and the length is about 100 yards each. The crossing is tricky there is no doubt on it and requires careful driving more especially in a low GC clearance.Chotta Dara was reached 14 km after Batal.
6. The scenic surroundings soon had changed as we progressed our journey and shades of green started to make their presence felt and the cold stark mountains were left in the distance. Snow was still visible in the high peaks all around and the entire feeling to be out here was surreal. We indulged in numerous photo shoots but there was always the thought of crossing the remaining nullahs just before Grampoo as early as possible. I did cross a few stretches which were really unsuitable for a sedan in case there would have been more water flow but thankfully this part of the year it was all under control and manageable.

7. Chattru was reached by noon and we did not stop to have any refreshments other than tea that we carried and pushed forward. There are four nullahs as per me between Chattru and Grampoo that are to be watched out for and the first two are the real tricky ones for they are long and road twists as one crosses them so no easy task to cross them in fast flowing water with a vehicle which has a low GC.Anyways i did the recce and then placed stones at points where I felt that the wheel might dip deeper in to the water and with my companion guiding me I attempted the nullahs.It was a feeling of victory to cross each of them and I felt jubilant on the car's performance and stability after each obstacle. We reached Grampoo by 1340 hrs and decided to stop for lunch and a well deserved break. The Spiti Valley had officially ended for me and I had left the Abode of Gods far behind and i really was not liking this.

8. Ahead lay Rohtang La , again not very conducive for Sedan but there was no other way to reach Manali.Soon we were zipping on tarmac after along time and reached Rohtang La by 1525 hrs after a brief stop .The weather changed dramatically at the pass and soon I was engulfed in heavy fog and slight rain. The visibility was reduced to half a metre and i had absolutely no inkling of the road ahead for the simple reason that i just could not see it. I drove very slowly desperately wishing for the fog to clear but that was not e case to be , the entire stretch was covered in absolute silence within the car for both of us knew that we were in reality driving totally blind.

9. Eventually i reached Gulaba and thereafter Kothi.It was a rainy afternoon and I was back in civilization. The biker group had long before separated out and i knew that we would be meeting up in Manali , so no worries on that account. Reached Manali by 1720 hrs and Akshay was there to meet me in the outskirts and he had booked a room for us too as we were without reservations and he led me to Old Manali.That evening was spent in great company as we relaxed after the long and arduous journey that we had undertaken and seen vistas that i could have never imagines, drove on places that were unthinkable to even be attempted if someone had suggested whilst I was in the planning stage. It was a journey of a lifetime and i was richer in terms of experience and good will imbibed in the Gompas.

10. Odometer for the day. Lossar: 57308 - Manali: 57460

[swsumit]

Few More Visual Sights Of Lossar - Manali ( Day Xiii)

[swsumit]

DAY XIV – MANALI TO DELHI ( 600 KM)

DESTINATION : DELHI,

1. The only phase that now remained in the expedition was its successful completion as we were soon departing Himachal and would be reaching the plains and then would be homeward bound to Mumbai. But today would be one of the long stretches to travel for we were planning to reach Delhi by around seven in the evening and also had to cater to Delhi traffic.

2. The day started by 0630 hrs and we were soon on our way. We took the NH-21 which would take us through Kullu and thereafter Mandi.We were planning you exit Himachal through Swarghat and thereafter enter Punjab at Kiratpur.

3. I will not be very elaborate on this post as the route is pretty simple to follow but yes it is quite windy and has numerous twists and turns.Mandi was reached by 0925 hrs covering a distance of 115 kms.Thereafter our next target was Barmana and Ghaghas where we had to take the turn towards Swarghat.Ghaghas is 57 kms from Mandi.Punjab border was reached by 1240 hrs and now we were officially out of Himachal – “The Land of the Snow Leopard and Dev Bhoomi.”

4. Punjab was all green and hot and by now we were just concentrating on reaching Delhi as soon as possible. From Kiratpur we sped towards Rajgad which is on the Punjab-Haryana Border and thereafter we reached Kurukshetra by 1600 hrs covering a distance of 416 kms from Manali.Delhi was still far as now we would also be facing the evening traffic of Delhi.Anyways we concentrating on moving as fast as we could.

5. Soon we were crossing Murthal and Sonepat and memories of the day when we were going towards Himachal sped through our minds for now we were going away from something magical .Delhi was reached by 2000 hrs covering a distance of close to 600 kms from Manali and the evening traffic made me miss all the more what I had left behind bad roads and steep inclines and no power all included and would gladly have it all any day.

6. Odometer for the day : Manali :57461;Delhi :58070

[swsumit]

DAY XVI – DELHI TO UDAIPUR ( 690 KM)

DESTINATION : UDAIPUR, RAJASTHAN

1. There is nothing much for me to speak here for I was merely retracing the path that I had taken few days back. My target was Hotel Kajri in Udaipur and I was merely looking for a place to spend the night and then be on my way the next morning.

2. The day started at 0735 hrs and we were able to reach Hotel Kajri by by nine in the night .The day was hot and dusty but we were able to progress quite steadily.

3. Odometer for the day .Delhi: 58070 ; Udaipur :58758

DAY XVII – UDAIPUR TO MUMBAI ( 800 KM)

DESTINATION : MUMBAI, MAHARASTRA

1. So here we are, at the final penultimate day of my Expedition. In most of the travels the last day is normally a breeze and even I assumed that other than the long distance that I had to travel there should be nothing else to worry.

2. The previous day I had read about floods in Gujarat and I was a bit cautious as to what would happen as we too would in all probability be crossing the same regions but as the news reports were sketchy I could not figure it out much. The morning was cloudy as we started our trip and it was real pleasant. The roads were smooth and we made quite good progress but soon the day was turning out to be dusty.

3. Soon we reached the entry to NE1 which would take us to Baroda and the rains were welcoming us as we drove through pouring downpour. As we approached Barauch we were stuck in what could easily be described as the biggest traffic jam of my driving career. The Jan was easily about 10-15 kms long and three laned.I had no option other than to move on to the wrong side of the highway and with all lights switched on, a convoy of four light vehicles started moving ahead in the pouring downpour. I might have covered around close to 15 km in this manner as we approached the bridge on the river Narmada near Baurach where the road had been damaged in the monsoon and the road was being repaired.

4. The light vehicles were being sent across on an old bridge and we were directed on to it .The experience was taxing and at the same time it was the climax of my drive the past 17 days as even now I had to really put in all my efforts to move across and there was no thinking that the trip is completed.

5. The rains were with us the entire time till Mumbai and I concluded my trip at Marine Drive at one in the early morning with a cup of chai sitting and reflecting on what had transpired these last seventeen days.

6. Odometer of the day .Udaipur :58763 ; Mumbai:59584

FINAL ODOMETER OF THE TRIP: COLABA (09 SEP):54485 – COLABA (26 SEP):59584

TOTAL DISTANCE COVERED: 5099

[khoj]

Interesting travelogue. I am however unable to locate the bit about the vehicle being repaired in Manali, unless you have not written about the same or you drove back as is.

[swsumit]

Originally Posted by khoj

Interesting travelogue. I am however unable to locate the bit about the vehicle being repaired in Manali, unless you have not written about the same or you drove back as is.

Its in the post of Day XI ( Rangrik to Ke).The spare was renenewed at Kaza

Regards

[behaln]

Interesting travelogue , INDOMITABLE really made a picture perfect advertisement for Mahindra

[Karamvir30]

@SWSUMIT there is nothing else i would have asked for,as i am also preparing myself for Spiti,a complete write up with each and every corner well described..Respect Bro