[TheDesertRat]

Well written Joy Sir! And exactly the same trip with the same dilemmas as mine!!

I was devoid of taking the Leh - Manali route as well and had to succumb to family pressure of taking the Srinagar route.

Since then, I have vowed to

1. Get a proper 4wd - coincidentally, Scorpio is my choice too. However, seeing the new Pajero Sport to be launched, I am still in two minds!
2. Return to Ladakh and complete the circuit as I originally planned.

[mustysekhon]

Good to see the Travelogue and glad to see you had a good time. AMS can be a killer for morale and rightly pointed out by you that it requires a watchful eye and defusing the situation. Nice pics and style of writing. About the next car - see if a petrol fits in especially for exotic locations - power and light weight combo are better.

[Inquisitive]

Wow, Joy!!! Simply unputdownable. Once you feel IBM is not paying you enough, you definitely have a greener pasture in writing. Bravo!! Aptly rated 5-stars.

It does not matter whether your project ran as per its text so long as you do not give up. Maybe you start from Manali side next time in October.

[SR71-Blackbird]

A wonderful report! Excellent writing!

A minor nitpick in the below pictures:
The aircraft in the below pictures is a MIG 21.
The Light combat aircraft is still in the final stages of development by HAL and is not inducted into the IAF yet.

Originally Posted by joybhowmik

The LCA
Attachment 1397128
A light combat aircraft on display at the gate - perhaps implying the equally stellar role that the IAF had played in the war.

A close-up
Attachment 1397129

[Bhodrolok]

Great pics and write up. I completely agree about the pure ethereal beauty of Ladhakh & Kashmir but they are as different as chalk and cheese. Also I had used an Innova for my entire Ladhankh trip too but a 4x4 would have made it a lot easier. the harrowing hair raising moments wouldn't be as hair raising.

[autobahnjpr]

Dear Joy,
It was a joy reading your travelogue. The fine storytelling and attention to places and people made us vicariously enjoy the journey while reading. A salute to our defence forces and BRO for serving the nation selflessly.
I just read today in the newspaper that all vehicles from Manali to Rohtang pass are banned now and only those going onward to Leh are allowed. Hope this makes the road condition better and you can then easily complete the circuit in your next trip.

[Bon Vivant]

Brilliant write up Joy . I feel I've taken the tour without spending a penny or maybe only a few on MBs reading your writeup

I'm planning to do the trip next year and your experience would help immensely. Please let me know in your opinion if this can be done in a sedan or SUVs are a must. Let me know if you saw any sedans doing this trip

Regards, Sunil

[joybhowmik]

Originally Posted by blackwasp

Thanks for posting this. ...Definitely a good guide for someone planning a trip there. I have bookmarked this thread for future reference (a matter of when rather than if).

Thanks!

Originally Posted by TheDesertRat

Well written Joy Sir!
...
Since then, I have vowed to ...
Return to Ladakh and complete the circuit as I originally planned.

Thanks! And a great account of the travails one has to face in case of inclement weather on your thread! I wish you the very best as you plan the next one. Maybe our paths could cross :-)

Originally Posted by mustysekhon

Good to see the Travelogue and glad to see you had a good time.

Thanks mustysekhon. I hope you have the chance to pen down yours! :-)

Originally Posted by SR71-Blackbird

A wonderful report! Excellent writing!
...
A minor nitpick in the below pictures:
The aircraft in the below pictures is a MIG 21.

Thanks SR71-Blackbird. You are probably right about the identification of the aircraft. The LCA was not around in 1999.

Originally Posted by Bhodrolok

Great pics and write up.

Originally Posted by autobahnjpr

Dear Joy,
It was a joy reading your travelogue.

Thanks Bhodrolok, autobahnjpr

Originally Posted by Bon Vivant

Brilliant write up Joy ...

I'm planning to do the trip next year and your experience would help immensely. Please let me know in your opinion if this can be done in a sedan or SUVs are a must. Let me know if you saw any sedans doing this trip

Regards, Sunil

Thanks Sunil.. Others before you have done this trip in a sedan. IIRC , rkbharat did so on an SX4. Others have recently tried this on Chevy Beat. No , I did not watch out for sedans specifically - they are not as popular there, as they are in the plains.



All , I wanted to share with you one snap... taken in Oct 1974 of Khardung La.


This snap has been taken probably by Romesh Bhattacharji himself and I quote from his website:

On the 1st of August, 2009 I saw a TV documentary on NEWS X - an Indian channel- about a gaggle of motorcyclists exaggerating their difficulties on a trip through Kalpa, Spiti, Lahoul and Ladakh. These days hundreds of motorcyclists do these journeys every year. There is no need to exaggerate for all the dangers are gone or are well known. No one mentions the awesome beautiful magnificence of the scenery they cross. ... Here I have merely uploaded pictures taken from 43 to 30 years ago. Just to show that all this and much more had been done ages ago at a time when there were really no roads at some places.

I wanted to share this , because of an observation that I made, when I was there.

I came across a group of tourists (maybe 30 in all ) at Disket, who had just arrived after enduring a bus ride (over the mighty Khardung La). Their first order of business, was to get the traveling cook started on rustling up tarkari (mixed veggies), maach'er jhol (fish curry), daal (lentils) and bhaat (rice). The next order of business was to make a beeline for the bathroom to wash clothes - and string them up to dry. I am not sure when (and if) they did manage to get out of their comfort zone and actually experience the location, they were brought to.

And there lies the difference between the hordes who visit Ladakh today, and people like us. It's important to realize this is not a package tour- that's over before it started. This is not about, checking the box in front of Ladakh -and earning bragging rights.

It's about, humbly bowing low, as one enters it's portals. It's about being prepared to be changed by the experience that unfolds. It's when we shed the baggage that we carry with us, that we can truly enjoy Ladakh!

And if one's not prepared to do so, then it's no different than a Darjeeling, Shimla , Mussoorie or Nainital - Crass, cheap, and totally avoidable.

[alfaromeo1984]

Firstly Joy Sir congratulations on completing a super trip. Very well narrated. I guess in some way you must be glad that u didn't complete the circuit so theres always something to look forward too when you go next time.

And a super choice going in for the scorpio. Even i am contemplating the same but family wants something else.

[SDP]

There are just so many Ladakh travelogues, that I no longer look forward to reading the next one. BUT, just the opening post in your log got me hooked. Spent 2 days going through it completely before commenting.

Its a very, very, very different Ladakh travelogue than what I have read till date. Very detailed, straight from the heart and a really unique perspective. Brilliant effort! Joy, take a bow!

[Aum]

And just when you think all has been said about being "Lehed" comes a fresh perspective. There are tourists and there are travelers. There is more to Ladakh then just being "Lehed", hundred percent agree with below sentiment
"I am not sure when (and if) they did manage to get out of their comfort zone and actually experience the location, they were brought to.

And there lies the difference between the hordes who visit Ladakh today, and people like us. It's important to realize this is not a package tour- that's over before it started. This is not about, checking the box in front of Ladakh -and earning bragging rights.

It's about, humbly bowing low, as one enters it's portals. It's about being prepared to be changed by the experience that unfolds. It's when we shed the baggage that we carry with us, that we can truly enjoy Ladakh!

And if one's not prepared to do so, then it's no different than a Darjeeling, Shimla , Mussoorie or Nainital - Crass, cheap, and totally avoidable."
Thanks for sharing rated 5 star.

[amit.s]

Yet another awesome heartfelt travelogue on getting "Leh'ed" . This one has some unique, not seen before pictures of that region. Bookmarking this for future reference when I will be planning my trip.

[mi2n]

Exemplary narrative Joy da! And hordes of mesmerizing captures to turbo-charge the log. Congratulations for living the Ladakh dream and really looking forward to your escapades with the new Scorpio.

[me_sid]

Joy, it's a feast in terms of articulation, narration and visual stimulation. Great Job. Congrats to you and your family to have done this trip successfully, in fact right now we have a few of our Team-BHP Kolkata mates in Leh and most of them are on hatches and sedans, so yes its highly do-able. Just that a AWD or a 4WD will save those couple of litres of sweat, and help explore some remote places with peace of mind and confidence .

If the mods permit me to use vernacular, and if the quintessential Jotayu (Satyajit Roy Fame) would have been seeing the pics he would have stated to your BIL dada " Apnai to bejay gombheer, moshai " as in " Gentleman, you seem to be extremely serious".

-Cheers-
Sid