[Waspune]

Originally Posted by YanTra Makto

kindly go through my reply again , I guess that is what I said,
taxi = problem, not as per law but as per unofficial understanding between various taxi unions. I specifically mentioned that in a WB taxi you can go till Gangtok but not Nathula or North Sikkim.

Makes sense man. Thanks

[r.praveen]

Congrats on your trip. It is always nice to see someone take time off to experience the cultural side of a place rather than mere photo-shoots at scenic locations.

I am also going to Bhutan - more of a 'backpacking' than a road trip. I was wondering about the cost of accommodation there. Leaving aside the information on travel websites, I would love to know about the cost and the availability of rooms to stay (without pre-booking) from a person who went there recently. Can you help me out here? [Thanks in advance!]

[YanTra Makto]

Originally Posted by anubshar

Awesome travelogue and awesome pictures. Bhutan seems to be a great place to holiday seeing its natural beauty. Hills, greenery, snow what more can one ask for when on a holiday. You have surely increased my bucket list.

Yes anubshar, it definitely is a great place to vacation. And as I said in the beginning of travelogue there are few places in world outside India, where as Indian you get some sort of preferential treatment as compared to the Americans or Europeans, so why not make hay while the sun shines.

Originally Posted by Waspune

Makes sense man. Thanks

Great, let me know if you require any help on planning in near future, thanks

Originally Posted by r.praveen

Congrats on your trip. It is always nice to see someone take time off to experience the cultural side of a place rather than mere photo-shoots at scenic locations.

I am also going to Bhutan - more of a 'backpacking' than a road trip. I was wondering about the cost of accommodation there. Leaving aside the information on travel websites, I would love to know about the cost and the availability of rooms to stay (without pre-booking) from a person who went there recently. Can you help me out here? [Thanks in advance!]

Thank you for the compliments, yes the trip was planned to coincide with last day of Tsechu, and that is why we headed to Paro first instead of Thimphu. I was even surprised that of the hundreds of Indian tourist who entered Bhutan on the same day like us (you make friends waiting long hours in line for permits). All except two families headed for Thimphu and not Paro, guess they had not done their homework properly. Also, amongst those two, one went for Tigers Nest trek on the day of Tsechu and were wondering around in Paro the next,what could be worse than that, but am sure they would have had their valid reasons.

Yeah, accommodation, all ranges should be available, but since you are backpacking, you should factor in the cost of transportation till city center / points of interests in addition to mere cost. Those closer to center of city will offer lower quality rooms for the price you can get cottage some 2-3 kms away (the towns are small). But at the same time unless you are single and comfortable in walking rather sort hiking (all ups and downs), those 2-3 kms would prove troublesome / costly.

That said, I would say the average rate of decent double bed room would be between Rs 2,500 to 3,000. Of course you can get for lesser if you intend to spend less and are okay with lower standards. Its your call.

By the way, do not go by the hotel rates in tripadvisor, make my trip etc. They have prices for only the very costly super luxury ones. Prices of normal ones if listed are not available.

What I did was to read reviews from tripadvisor, and then go to hotels website and try out their number.

This particular site (link given below) provided an almost comprehensive listing with rates and contacts. Though you may still be able to find cheaper ones, which are not listed even here, really cant comment for sure on that.

http://www.hotel.bt/


I had talked regarding availability of room for the dates required on telephone and booked like so, without making any prior payment. Except Thimphu were I was unable to do prior tie up and had trouble finding a decent stay due to it presumably being peak of Indian tourist season (annual exam of kids over break)

[YanTra Makto]

Day 2: Paro-Ta Dzong

So a well deserved lunch of finger-licking pizza over, we were all set for next destination that was Ta Dzong or the watch tower of Paro Dzong, ,though we could see it just above the Paro Dzong but were unable to find a carable road to it and had to ask a local taxi driver.


Well, this is the small lovely drive one has to take through Dopchari Valley to reach Ta Dzong or watch tower housing the national museum of Bhutan.




Crossing the beautiful Dopchari Valley




Lovely Drive




Lovely Views







In front of the entry to Museum




Ta Dzong, clicked by my elder one




Watching the Paro Dzong and Valley from Paro Watchtower, on the lower left of this photo one can see the Tsechu grounds.




But this building which houses the museum was damaged in Sikkim earthquake of 2011, and is under renovation since, few of the exhibits are displayed in the adjoining building. Cameras and mobiles are not allowed inside and they have provision of storing your valuables in lockers at no additional costs. The exhibited part has lovely display of various masks from many different sets of monastic dances and contains a very nice description of them. Information which one will not find available easily especially none available online. Also has got good exhibits of natural history explaining the flora and fauna of Bhutan.




Another view of the mighty Paro Dzong






Time for some photo shoot










At the gates of museum premises






Driving back






The confluence of Paro chu and Dopchari




Another view of Paro Dzong and Ta Dzong




The Jangtsa Dumtseg Lhakhang, is unique in being shaped as a chorten




Came back to visit the last day of Tsechu fair in the Archery grounds, got a real taste of local culture especially cusine.


Fried Yak Skin




Night shots of Paro Dzong and Ta Dzong




Night Shot of Paro Dzong, Nyami Zam and Ta Dzong

[YanTra Makto]

Day 3 : Trek to Tigers Lair

Today's plan was to the trek to the Tigers Nest monastery, we should have got up early, but after the hectic last two days, we took it a bit easy.


View from balcony of our cottage




Pine Cones and snow clad mountains




Though it was end of March, these photographs will tell the story of temperature drop during night








A tree full of sparrows warming up in the welcome sun in front of our cottage




Our cottage and balcony




The restaurant of Pelri Cottages




One of the endearing things in Bhutan is the least amount of commercialization of this place as of now. These are the only boards pointing to the most visited tourist place in Bhutan !! In fact we overshot the turning and had to take a U turn back.




Beautiful Cherry Blossom




At the starting of Tiger Nests Trek, this is good place to bargain and shop, things are definitely cheaper than the Paro town




Important information on visiting Taktshang Monastery. Remember to take your entry permit into Bhutan along, as you are liable to be checked for same by RBP (Royal Bhutan Police) just before entrance to the monastery after 2 an 1/2 to 3 hours of trek. the one about licensed tour guide am not sure about if it is applicable to Indians, we did not had one and were bit worried for the same. Well no one asked us about it and neither did we.




A bit of official info about Tigers Nest




Search on the net and you find lots of information on Tigers Nest, but the best I felt was by the lonley planet guide book.

Taktshang Goemba BUDDHIST, MONASTERY

(Tiger’s Nest Monastery; hours 8am-1pm & 2-5pm daily Oct-Mar, until 6pm Apr-Sep) Tourists can enter the monastery, as long as your guide has arranged the standard permit in advance. Bags, phones and cameras have to be deposited at the entrance, where you must register with the army.

As you enter the complex you pass underneath images of the Rigsum Goempo (Jampelyang, Chenresig and Chana Dorje). Look to the right for the relic stone; Bhutanese stand on the starting line, close their eyes and try to put their thumb into a small hole in the rock as a form of karmic test.

Most groups then visit the Dubkhang (Pelphu Lhakhang), the cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated for three months. Outside the cave is a statue of Dorje Drolo, the manifestation the Guru assumed to fly to Taktshang on a tigress. The inner cave is sealed off behind a spectacularly gilded door. Murals of Guru Tshengye, the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche, decorate the walls. Behind you, sitting above the inside of the main entrance, is a mural of Thangtong Gyalpo holding his iron chains.

From here ascend to the Guru Sungjem Lhakhang, which has a central image of Pema Jungme, another of the eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche. This statue replaced a famous ‘talking’ image that was lost in the 1998 fire. Various demonic animal-headed deities and manifestations of the deity Phurba decorate the walls, while outside is an image of the protector Tseringma riding a snow lion.

The next chapel on the left has connections to Dorje Phagmo, with a rock image of the goddess’ crown hidden in a hole in the floor. The inner chorten belongs to Langchen Pelgye Tsengay, a 9th-century disciple of Guru Rinpoche, who meditated in the cave. Behind the chorten is a holy spring.

Further on inside the complex, to the left, is the Drole Lhakhang, where the monks hand out sungke (blessed threads), while to the right is the Guru Tsengye Lhakhang, which features an image of the monastery’s 17th-century founder, Gyelse Tenzin Rabgay. Ask a monk to show you the trap door! Further up is a butter lamp chapel (light one for a donation of Nu 20). You can also peer into the original Tiger’s Nest cave just above the chapel but it’s too dangerous to climb down into.

After visiting the Tiger’s Nest and re*ascending to the previous viewpoint, it is possible to take a signed side trail uphill for 15 minutes to the Machig-phu Lhakhang MAP , where Bhutanese pilgrims come to pray for children. Head to the cave behind the chapel and select the image of the Tibetan saint Machig Labdron on the right (for a baby girl), or the penis print on the cave wall to the left (for a boy). The main statues inside the chapel are of Machig and her husband Padampa Sangye.

Hike to Tiger’s Nest Monastery

The only way up to the Tiger’s Nest is to walk, ride a horse or fly up there on the back of a magic tiger (the latter generally reserved for tantric magicians). The 1¾-hour hike is a central part of any tourist itinerary and is unmissable for the spectacular views. It’s also a good warm-up hike if you are going trekking. If the full hike sounds a bit tough you can walk (or ride horses) for the first hour to the ‘cafeteria’, a wooden teahouse-restaurant, which offers a good view of the monastery. If you require horses (Nu 500/800 to the cafeteria/monastery), be sure to mention this to your guide in advance. Wear a hat and bring water.

The trail climbs through blue pines to three water-powered prayer wheels, then switchbacks steeply up the ridge, where a sign exhorts you to ‘Walk to Guru’s glory! For here in this kingdom rules an unparalled benevolent king!’ If you have just flown into Paro, walk slowly because you are likely to feel the altitude.

Once you reach the ridge there are excellent views across the valley and southwest towards Drukgyel Dzong. After a climb of about one hour and a gain of 300m you will reach a small chorten and some prayer flags on the ridge. Be watchful here as the trail crosses an archery ground. It’s then a short walk to the cafeteria (2940m), where you can savour the impressive view of the monastery over a well-deserved cup of tea. The cafeteria ( phone 17601682; tea & biscuits Nu 84, buffet lunch Nu 420; hours noon-3pm; veg ) also serves full vegetarian meals; if you arrange your schedule accordingly, you can have a simple breakfast or full lunch here.

The trail continues up for another 30 minutes to a spring and the basic monastery guesthouse. If you still have hunger pangs, a side trail leads to the Tashi Tashi Cafe MAP (set meals Nu 410). A cave and plaque marks the birthplace of a previous Je Khenpo; his former residence is just up the hill. A short walk further along the main trail brings you to a spectacular viewpoint at 3140m that puts you eyeball to eyeball with the monastery, which looks like it is growing out of the rocks.

From this vantage point Taktshang seems almost close enough to touch, but it’s on the far side of a deep valley about 150m away. The trail curves past a charming chapel of butter lamps and descends to a waterfall by the Singye Pelphu Lhakhang (Snow Lion Cave), a meditation retreat associated with Guru Rinpoche’s consort Yeshe Tshogyel and jammed into a rock crevice, before climbing back up to the monastery entrance.

Taktshang Hiking

Instead of returning to the parking lot the way you came you can make an adventurous two- to three-hour hike to higher chapels before descending steeply to the parking lot. Just to the side of the Machig-phu Lhakhang a trail climbs a couple of perilous log ladders and then branches right for 15 minutes to the Ugyen Tshemo Lhakhang, or left up to the Zangto Pelri Lhakhang MAP GOOGLE MAP, named after Guru Rinpoche’s heavenly paradise and perched on a crag with great views from the back down to the Tiger’s Nest. Roll the dice inside the chapel to double your chances of conceiving more kids. From here the trail descends past a charming holy spring (behind a wooden door) and down to the monastery guesthouse.

The Ugyen Tshemo Lhakhang MAP has an unusual set of four exterior protectors. Inside is a 3D mandala and some charred statues rescued from a fire around 60 years ago. If you’re keen, you can continue up to the Yosel Choekhorling MAP (Yoselgang; ) before returning.

From the Ugyen Tshemo Lhakhang, descend steeply down the valley for 15 minutes to a right turn-off, past a chorten to the cliff-face Shama Lhakhang MAP , just next to Taktshang but inaccessible from there. Look out for jaru (mountain goats) here.

Back at the junction, trails drop steeply for 45 minutes down to the three water prayer wheels just before the car park. Figure on six hours for the entire hike up to Taktshang and down this alternative route. The descent is best not attempted in wet weather.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

Bumdra Trek
It’s no myth: you can approach Taktshang Goemba from above, though not on the back of a flying tiger. The overnight Bumdra trek takes you high above Taktshang on the first day so that you spend the second day descending through forests to reveal the famous Tiger’s Nest. The trek and campground have been developed by Bhutan Trekking & Hiking Services ( iconphonegif 02-325472; www.trektobhutan.com), and can be organised through your Bhutanese agent.

This hike starts from Sanga Choekor Shedra (Click here), at 2800m, from where it climbs steadily through blue pine, to a forest of mighty oaks with a red-flowering rhododendron understorey. Four hours from the start you reach the Chhoe Chhoe Lhakhang, high on a spur overlooking the Paro and Do rivers, where Himalayan views and a hot lunch miraculously appear.

After lunch it’s a short walk to the camping ground in an open yak pasture beside Bumdra Lhakhang (3900m). If you have the energy, you can ascend a peak to the north for views of the snowcapped peaks, and visit the cliff-hugging lhakhang with its statue of Guru Rinpoche.

After a hot breakfast on day two, start heading downhill beneath larch and tall silver pines to the Ugyen Tshemo Lhakhang, at 3300m, which is directly above the still-invisible Taktshang Lhakhang. Two hours from the start you cross a stream that powers prayer wheels and later falls off a cliff beside Taktshang, before reaching the main trail to the Tiger’s Nest. After visiting Taktshang Goemba (Click here) take the trail to the parking area and rest those weary legs.

Beautiful Birds chirped and played around in the shadowed pine groves




The trek begins




Though the kids were not willing but we had to force them on a horse for theirs and ours sake. the horse is available for Rs 660 (incl taxes with a proper bill) and goes up till halfway. After that the climb is gentler, and the path is dangerous to be climbed down on horse. So basically you get a horse for 1/4 th but the most strenuous part of trek.

The woods were lovely, dark and deep and reminded us of Mariposa in Yosemite National Park.




Prayer wheel being rotated with steam running underneath and these shelters built right over and across the streams. Boy, these guys do take their prayers seriously. And our kids riding on the horse had become quite an attraction and a photo opportunity for fellow trekkers.




There are water points en route with a high tub beneath to enable the horses too to drink




Reached the first viewpoint of Tigers Nest. Took close to an hour.




Lets rest a while and kids were delighted to be off the horses back







(continued ..)

[YanTra Makto]

Day 3 : Trek to Tigers Lair

Soon we reached the Cafeteria and cooled down their for some time by having cold drinks, washing our faces etc. And sat down to have the sandwiches we had got along. After about 20 mins, we were back on course


beautiful views






Time to rest in shade, while the lady catches up




They looked beautiful, does someone knows what are these??




Reached the viewpoint, took about an hour from Cafeteria


Elder one clicking the Tigers Nest




His pic




Time for a family photo




Wife clicked me clicking




the click




After some rest due photo session, started the trek again and it was stairs going down and down, crossed a foot bridge then back up






It is great that there are no cameras, mobiles allowed inside this wonder, so what you see is like real exploring as you do not really know whats in store, with trap doors, and half floors, and attics and ladders and caves and basements, I would not describe it in detail to keep the magic alive, its the sort of place of which 'kisse kahanis' are made of..


(contd..)

[YanTra Makto]

Day 3 : Trek to Tigers Lair

Well, after having a lovely trip of the Taktshang Gompa, we finally started on our way back. But now my elder one wanted to go here too




This what we had to climb up and down to reach there




The steps were almost Inca'ish




There was a cave here with a statue, where a guru had meditated long back. The actual building was actually out of bounds as a hermit was meditating there for some time and was not be disturbed by tourists.

Anyway got a good perspective shot of the final stages of the journey from here, all steps, towards left top in this pic is the Taktshang Gompa and towards right top the view point.




We had seen this establishment on way to and thought that it was some small shrine, but no we learnt on our way back that this set up was free tea and snacks (puffed rice) point being run by this elderly couple. They daily trek up and down with ration and stuff for 45 mins from a place near by to keep this place running out of their own savings. Their intention being to provide relief to hungry and tired souls, the guy said that he did not feel happy that people should go back hungry from temple.

Wow, these guys are hero




A pic with them




An arty mobile click by wifey




Well, my climb up from the foot bridge to view point was slow and I just couldn't fight the urge to keep clicking the Taktshang every few steps in the beautiful evening light










Resulting these guys reached the viewpoint before me and utilized the time to rest




While wife clicked few from her mobile




Relaxing at the viewpoint




Brothers in Arms




From the viewpoint it was all downhill, and was lovely in the evening light and cooler temps










A water break at 'first view' point







By the time we reached our car it was almost dark, and ours was one out of the only three vehicles still left there.


So after cooling down and doing some stretching exercises with the kids, we quickly set course for the now favourite Authentic Pizzas for a well deserved meal




Tonight was our last night in beautiful Paro, and we went to Brioche Cafe to have the highly recommended Hot Chilly Chocolate and a slice of Honey Spicy cake






One last night shot of Paro Dzong and Ta Dzong

[slackyboy]

Fantastic family holiday captured in spectacular fashion!!! Congratulations on your drive to Bhutan. I also enjoyed the beautiful narrative which explained details from your fabulous pictures. Some of your photos are breathtakingly beautiful. Thanks again for sharing.

[YanTra Makto]

Originally Posted by slackyboy

Fantastic family holiday captured in spectacular fashion!!! Congratulations on your drive to Bhutan. I also enjoyed the beautiful narrative which explained details from your fabulous pictures. Some of your photos are breathtakingly beautiful. Thanks again for sharing.

Thank you slackyboy, compliments like these keeps one going through the effort of compiling a travelogue

[fundagenie]

Really awesome travelogue.. Felt blessed reading the whole thing and seeing those photos. Never knew Bhutan was such a wonderful place. So now Bhutan also goes into my list where I would like to drive to.

PS: Yours sons click of the Tigers Nest came out real good...

FundaG

[YanTra Makto]

Originally Posted by fundagenie

Really awesome travelogue.. Felt blessed reading the whole thing and seeing those photos. Never knew Bhutan was such a wonderful place. So now Bhutan also goes into my list where I would like to drive to.

PS: Yours sons click of the Tigers Nest came out real good...

FundaG

Thank you, fundagenie,open for help and advice anytime. Yes he does click great ones at times, unfortunately all of his pics of Taktshang trek were deleted accidentally. Could recover only a few

[YanTra Makto]

Day 4 : Drukgyel Dzong

Today was planned for drive to Thimphu, Sightseeing at Thimphu and getting the permits done for Phobjikha and Punakha. Also being Friday, it was a the last day to do so before the immigration office shuts shop (probably) on Saturday and Sunday.

But as we were unable to go to Drukgyel Dzong the previous day, due to our delayed completion of Tigers Nest Trek, we decided to drive to it before retracing back to Thimphu via Paro.

Well, we had done most of this drive yesterday for trek till Tiger Nest.


Bhutan is rich in timber



A bit about Drukgyel Dzong, courtesy lonely planet

Near the end of the road, 14km from Paro, stand the ruins of Drukgyel Dzong. This dzong was built in 1649 in a location chosen for its control of the route to Tibet. The dzong was named 'Druk' (Bhutan) 'gyel' (victory) to commemorate the victory of Bhutan over Tibetan invaders in 1644. One of the features of the dzong was a false entrance that lured the returning Tibetan invaders into an enclosed courtyard during a second attack.

The dzong sits at the point where the trail from Tibet via the Tremo La enters the Paro valley. Once the Tibetan invasions ceased, this became a major trade route, with Bhutanese rice being transported to the Tibetan town of Phari Dzong in barter for salt and bricks of tea. Trekking groups have largely replaced the trade caravans and you may see mule men here preparing for the Jhomolhari trek.

On a clear day (most likely in October or November) there are fine views of Jhomolhari's snowy cone from this stretch, which makes for a great bike ride.


Read more: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/bhutan/d...#ixzz46I7nfOuH

Well they say right, a lovely drive it indeed is. And though it was not October or November but we were blessed by unbelievable clear views of the most beautiful presiding deity of Paro Valley the Chomolhari. The Paro Chu originates from one slope of this and on the northern side this mountain rises isolated 2700m out of Tibetan plateau. The ancient trading tibetan outpost of Phari Dzong lies on its northern base.


Lovely drive in the deity's presence




From my lense




A closer view




There were even lovelier clicks from my sons cam, but unfortunately he deleted them all :-(


Arriving at the ruins




End of the road




A water operated prayer wheel shed in ruins




Lovely village views




The small building you see on right in the pic above was one of reasonable (purely comparative) shops we found Bhutan.


Okay, here are few closer views







A traditional painting on hand made paper




Trying on traditional head gear of highlander Bhutanese people, its made of Yak hair




On the way during the short walk to Drukgyel Dzong




Collapsed tunnel to go till the water tower from the Dzong




At the Dzong










Though there is nothing much to see at the Dzong as most of it is closed due to renovation.




Running short on time




The drive back too was equally lovely







It was time to leave Paro, but not before I had had a look at the Cordyceps : neither animal nor plant, but a bacterial infection in caterpillars of Ghost Moths, the infection when starts afflicting the brain forces the caterpillar to to bury itself in ground, the fungi then sprouts from it !

Interested, for further reference,

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cordyceps

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ophiocordyceps_sinensis


It is considered to have great medicinal properties and has to carefully spotted and collected from high altitude meadows. It is also known as the mountain gold. And here they were priced at $8 a piece, so that's about 6000 rs in my hand !




No, I have not clicked this from an airplane, and no I am not attempting to land my car. That is a view of Paro runway clicked form my car on the main road to Paro. If cars are standing here, where does the airplane come in from to land ??, so now you can imagine why it is considered the most difficult airports!!




And it definitely must be one of the most beautiful ones too




(contd..)

[pduttaghy]

Great travelogue YanTra Makto, a detailed description of every single step. You were lucky to get the Paro festival, when we went in October during the Pujas, there was nothing there.
By the way you did a wise thing by booking directly with the hotels/resorts. Our trip was almost spoiled because of thorough unprofessionalism of Booking.com. Thanks to the good nature of the Bhutanese people, who went out of their way to help us, that made our stay pleasant.

[WhiteHorse]

Superb travelogue and nice to see your family enjoying the local culture, your style of interacting closely with the locals definitely provides a richer experience of the road trip for your family. The kids will remember the trip for a long time.

Originally Posted by YanTra Makto

9. If you intend to self drive your vehicle, you need to write a simple application, requesting permission to go to all the places, your Entry permit number, total duration of stay, Vehicle Registration number, Insurance policy number, drivers license number along with photocopy of all of it, Road Tax Certificate (if separate from RC) and pollution check certificate.

One quick question, do you need a special Vehicle Insurance Policy or the Indian Insurance policy would do?

[YanTra Makto]

Originally Posted by WhiteHorse

Superb travelogue and nice to see your family enjoying the local culture, your style of interacting closely with the locals definitely provides a richer experience of the road trip for your family. The kids will remember the trip for a long time.



One quick question, do you need a special Vehicle Insurance Policy or the Indian Insurance policy would do?

Thank you WhiteHorse, the RSTA of Bhutan seemed to be happy enough with a normal insurance policy, but in case something actually happens your insurance guys may not honour if Bhutan is not included.