[Dhar's]

Ladakh had been always an elusive destination for me, Numerous travel plans tumbled at various stages, Innumerable travelogues drooled upon, Ladakh remained a distant dream.

Ladakh.
The land of high passes.
The land of highest airport in India.
The land of highest motorable road,
And I remained stubborn on over landing or never.

It was a post lunch short stroll scroll in Instagram when something about Ladakh caught my attention. Photowalk Dubai by @wayeyesee aka Subodh Shetty was organizing a photography expedition to Ladakh. Five days of photography workshop in frozen Leh to shoot Monasteries, People, Spitik Gompor Festival, Portrait, candid, landscape, Astrophotography, mentored by a revolutionary photographer.

Thus six of us strangers with one passion, sat around a table, with sheesha for the brave lungs, and tea and coffee for the faint lungs, packed our bags, armed with cameras and lenses courtesy of Nikon.


Off I go, in an Indigo,
Heed to the call of mountains,
A dream cherished for long.

We all met again at Delhi arriving in different airlines, bought all the Diamox available at the pharmacy, and boarded last leg of the journey. To the highest airport in India

Flight was packed, and had to settle in for the aisle seat. Eagerly waiting for vistas to change, over a light sandwich and straining on to the window, watching those mighty mountains.

Between, photos, selfies and videos for ‘books and ‘grams, the bird touched down with a customary jolt. Finally stepping on to that land so elusive, and that whiff of cold air on the face so exhilarative.

Set foot on the soil that was yearned for years,
With that one selfie at the airport, for the album,
Wearing a smile that so blissful.

Day 1

Our stay was booked at Zen Ladakh. A nice hotel considering the region’s geographical challenges. Checked in and treated ourselves to a sumptuous breakfast. Rest was planned for rest of the day. Caught up on some sleep and was woken up by hunger.

Meeting others over the lunch, the shutterbug bite couldn’t wait and summoned up the chauffer for a drive around and he agrees to be host for the evening.

Ushered into a Ladakhi home, with a fireplace to keep us warm, tea and biscuits follow which we so glad to savor, hosts so friendly and children so cheerful, it was time for the cameras to come out of bags.


Hot butter tea for the tired traveller


Cookies that go with the tea

Hosts were so glad to pose for us, adorned in traditional costumes, so beautiful were the headgears, made of precious stones. These are passed on to generations and worn during special functions like wedding, festivals etc. I am told that these headgears are like gold ornaments of the south to them.


Ladakhi woman with her beautiful head attire decorated with stones and traditional ornaments.
The head gear weighs as much as two kilos.


Ladakhi woman in her traditional attire with simple ornaments.


Another young lady in her traditional rich attire wearing beautifully crafted traditional ornaments.


Boy was very happy to be clicked.


A pretty face who was eager to pose for her photo beside her to be demolished old house.

During the chitchat, the eldest of the family raised his concerns about global warming when asked about the snowfall. Over the years, snowfall had been reducing and this year was the lowest with no snowfall in the village. Even a village dweller was talking about global warming which some of the world leaders are reluctant to acknowledge!

As the evening set in, the temperature dipped rapidly, and we thanked the family and bid farewell. Tired from the flight and not having enough rest for acclimatisation started showing on me and wanted to crash for the day. But we had other plans.


Frozen streams once irrigated the land.

Immediately after dinner of hot and spicy noodles and soup, we moved on to Shey monastery for astrophotography. It was freezing cold and temperature must have been in -10s. But it was truly an experience to see those celestial objects with naked eye and to capture them on camera.





After spending about an hour, we called it a day, as no one of us was able to bear the cold.

Day 2
Next day started off slowly. With a breakfast of wonderful pancakes with honey and omlettes, we headed on to Hemis Monastery.

Stopped on the way to experience snow. First time in the life for this quadragenarian.


A thin layer of snow.


Frozen river


Our mentor @wayeyesee trying a chadar trek....


Frozen Indus river with backdrop of Stakna Monastery

The Hemis monastery hostel on the way was literally empty as the younger monks were on vacation. At the monastery, it was quiet. Most of the monks were on vacation and there were hardly any tourists.


Entrance to Hemis Monastery


Eldest monk who keep the lamp lit always.


Fetching water for the kitchen



Monks were carrying water for own needs and for kitchen. Felt guilty for cribbing in the morning about the faulty shower mixer at the hotel washroom, which had a mind of its own in regulating hot and cold water.


Rest in between


Typical bridge decorated with prayer flags. Stop for a customary photo session. Our chauffer posing for a photo.



Next stop, pet puja. Hunger served with some hot momos / dumplings at a wayside eatery.




Frames, framed. Our host for the lunch.


This boy was happy to be clicked. Scar on the face from a fight with his siblings.

Thikse monastery was up next. Walking up the hill was a huge effort since I was gaping for breath. Nevertheless made up to the top and to the temple upstairs.


Window to freedom


View from the monastery.

With that we called it a day.

[Dhar's]

Day 3
Spituk Gustor Festival is an annual winter celebration in Ladakh. Its the 'Sacrifice of the 29th day' and is a traditional ritual to the monasteries of the Geluk-pa order of Tibetan Buddhism. Guluk-pa wears yellow hats. (More details are available in the dotcom world. Hence avoiding repeating)


Being a Sunday, there was a huge turn around of crowd.


Scene at the entrance of the Kaali Devi Temple was nothing short of a stampede.


Monks dressing up in masks for the Cham performance. They dress up as deities for the performance.


The crowd


The crowd on every possible inch of the age old monastery


The Geluk-pa


A monk as a masked Cham performer


Another group of masked performers


I guess this was the main part of the Cham performance. I do not have authentic information on the role of this monk.


Another main performer of the Cham performance.


Children watching the event with awe.
Siblings eager to be clicked.


This child stopped crying. Perhaps amused by the camera equipment.


Another Ladakhi face.


Lighter moments


Another Ladakhi charming face. Very much grateful to this charming lady who posed for me.


A Ladakhi elderly who first refused to be clicked, but later agreed.


The monastery was packed with spectators at all levels.


Ladakhi lady who sold be garlands made of stones similar to what she was wearing.

By afternoon, decided to return to the hotel for lunch and then proceed to Leh Palace.

Again due to off-season, the place was deserted. Apart from a few local visitors, the place was completely empty and the Leh Palace was closed.




The Leh Palace.


The blue hour.


Prayer flags

We made some photographs and captured the blue hour and called it a day.

[Dhar's]

Day 4
Next day again was spent at Spituk Gompor. Crowd was less maddening, and we could get a clear view of the Cham Performance.


Morning cup of tea


Opening ceremony for todays performance.


Organic decorations.


A little space for me.....


With prayers..


A close up of decorations. No plastics used.


Let the drum roll...


Let the trumpets blow...


Stage is set..


Cham performers enter....






The colourful crowd


Watching with prayers


Prayer wheels..


Enter another group of Cham performers who play pranks as well as entertain the crowd,






The main performer once again..


Another happy kid...


Cham performers




Dark alleys


The lady who sold me garland once again. I bought one more of similar type. She was very happy to sell one more. However, she looked tired.

By afternoon, we bid farewell and returned to the hotel and then proceeded to the market for souvenirs. There were hardly a few vendors and they were already packing up as early as by 6pm.

After dinner back in the hotel, it was time again for some astrophotography. This time, to shoot Thikse monastery again, but under the stars. It turned out to be quite not as what we had thought. Streetlights caused enough light pollution. Yet, we managed to capture some nice images.


Thiksey monastery under a start studded night.





With that, called it a day and returned to hotel.

[Dhar's]

Day 5
Woke up early to shoot parting shots of the golden light on mountains.


Parting panaroma


Golden snow capped mountains.

After another sumptuous breakfast, bid farewell to hotel staff and proceeded to the airport. Happy to get a window seat, boarded the flight. Arial view of snow capped mountains and frozen rivers were spectacular.




Frozen river meandering through the valleys


Landscape changed from white to brown....


....and finally to oblivion.

Slowly the vistas changed, it was back to normal world from a wonderland. Rest of the leg went uneventful and finally reached home safely.

But the mighty mountains still continues to beckon.…..

[Eddy]

Thread moved from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing.

[arvind71181]

Fantastic photos sir, especially the portraits. Makes me want to visit rightaway.

[sub.g84]

Lovely clicks. I must say that your photography talents do justice to the beauty of Leh Ladakh. I scrolled up and down atleast 5 times to just relook at the photos. Thank you for sharing.

[SJM1214]

Amazing Photographs. Attending one of the vibrant Ladakhi festivals is a lifetime opportunity. Did you visit Pangong Lake?

Thank you very much for sharing these amazing photographs.

[sandman_30]

It takes a whole different perspective to be able to capture more portraits and vibrant culture than the pristine landscapes of Ladakh. Just for managing to do that Sir, you deserve a huge round of applause.

These are some of the most vividly captured portraits that I have seen coming from ladakh compiled in a single space. Thoroughly enjoyed scrolling through. Thank you from the bottomless confines of my heart for sharing these stunning and vibrant snippets of the majestic land.

[Dhar's]

Originally Posted by arvind71181

Fantastic photos sir, especially the portraits. Makes me want to visit rightaway.

Originally Posted by sub.g84

Lovely clicks. I must say that your photography talents do justice to the beauty of Leh Ladakh. I scrolled up and down atleast 5 times to just relook at the photos. Thank you for sharing.

Originally Posted by SJM1214

Amazing Photographs. Attending one of the vibrant Ladakhi festivals is a lifetime opportunity. Did you visit Pangong Lake?



Thank you very much for sharing these amazing photographs.

Thank you @arvind71181, @sub.g84, @SJM1214 for the appreciation and glad you all liked the photographs.

@SJM1214

I absolutely loved that festival and never I my life I thought I would be attending a festival in Ladakh.
It was a short visit and I was not in a position to extend my stay as I had to return on that particular day itself. A huge loss not to visit Frozen Pangong Lake. But then the list would be endless.
Hope to go back again.

[dsnaveen21]

Awesome photography .

Which camera was used for this.

[sudev]

Wow. Lovely pictures and more importantly short description with each. This adds to the travelogue immensely.

Global warming and low snow fall also means lower water availability during summer and desertification.

[grkonweb]

Amazing pictures...you should seriously consider publishing a coffee table book...a visual treat indeed!

[siddarthab]

Fabulous photologue...... Splendid photographs. Rated 5 Stars.

Warm regards,

Siddhartha

[Dhar's]

Originally Posted by sandman_30

It takes a whole different perspective to be able to capture more portraits and vibrant culture than the pristine landscapes of Ladakh. Just for managing to do that Sir, you deserve a huge round of applause.

These are some of the most vividly captured portraits that I have seen coming from ladakh compiled in a single space. Thoroughly enjoyed scrolling through. Thank you from the bottomless confines of my heart for sharing these stunning and vibrant snippets of the majestic land.

Thank you for your superlative appreciations. For me, capturing portraits are much more difficult than landscapes. But Subodh Shetty helped me muster courage to ask people and to connect with them. I felt this trip much more complete since I connected with people of the land. Now I feel my earlier travels elsewhere mere passing by enjoying the scenery.

Originally Posted by dsnaveen21

Awesome photography .

Which camera was used for this.

Thank you.
I used a Nikon D4S and Nikkor 24-70 f/2.8 for most of the photos and 14-24 f/2.8 for landscape and astro. Camera gear and lenses were courtesy loan thanks to Nikon and Grand Stores.

Originally Posted by sudev

Wow. Lovely pictures and more importantly short description with each. This adds to the travelogue immensely.

Thank you Sudevji.

Originally Posted by sudev

Global warming and low snow fall also means lower water availability during summer and desertification.

Exactly. This was their main concern.
This coupled with tourist traffic will tax already scarce water resources.

Originally Posted by grkonweb

Amazing pictures...you should seriously consider publishing a coffee table book...a visual treat indeed!

Thank you.
Coffee table book... nice idea. Will definitely try.

Originally Posted by siddarthab

Fabulous photologue...... Splendid photographs. Rated 5 Stars.

Warm regards,

Siddhartha

Thank you very much!