Day 12: Losar - Kunzum La - Chandrataal- Batal - Chatru - Gramphu Rohtang - Kothi
All the alarms rang one by one and everyone was packed in their jackets and warmers. Baggages were packed and the engines where cranged. My gigantic engine denied to take a start, I did not realize the the temperature has dropped down to sub zero at night. Jugs of hot water was poured on diesel filter and on the front glass guarded with a thin layer of ice. The bike was also bath with hot water to warm up for the new avenue. The owner was awake by now and was ready with cups of tea for all. By 6 am we were accelerating towards Chandra Taal. At the check post route documents check was completed while I rechecked the road conditions ahead.
Early Morning at Losar
Kunzum La is at a distance of 18.3 kms and even though google map may say that it is gettable in 17 mins, believe it is not. There were no roads rather it was barren desert and you can take any direction you wish to. At Kunzum La is at an elevation of 4590 mts. and is one of the highest motorable mountain passes of India. Forming the watershed between Lahaul and Spiti, this 4590m pass is accessed by multiple switchbacks. The place is topped by a grassy area where stupas are strewn with fluttering prayer flags.
Local drivers (and even the buses) briefly divert from the road to perform a respectful circuit around them. The meadow was encroached with white-top peaks behind and deep abyss on either sides. The road to Chandratal is a 14 kilometers long stretch that bifurcates from Kaza Manali road and takes you to the famous moon lake. The bifurcation is about 2 kilometers before Batal. This entire 14 kilometers long road is extremely narrow; barely wide enough for one car; and you are bound to get stuck if there was a car coming from the opposite direction. On one side of the road is the steep mountain and a steep fall into Chandra river on the other side. The car was parked 2 kms away from the lake at the parking area and beyond that there is no other option but to trek up to the lake. We procured the entry pass and enquiried of food. Knowing that in lunch we will get rice, I already ordered and asked them to prepare while we will be back from the lake.
For a brief introduction, Chandra Taal, commonly referred to as Chandratal and literally meaning as the “Moon Lake”; is a high altitude lake located in Samudra Tapu plateau, in Lahaul & Spiti region of Himachal Pradesh. At an altitude of 4,300 meters, this lake is the source of Chandra River and its name “Chandra” is believed to be derived from its moon like shape. Chandra River originates from a glacier on south-eastern side of the Baralacha La Pass. These small streams of water flow down in the direction of Kunzum pass and form Chandratal in a broad slush plain amidst the peaks of Kunzum range.
Completely enthralled by the natural beauty of Chandratal, sitting in between high rising snow-capped peaks. We walked along the trek route and the route was les tedious than the Dhankar lake trek. Within minutes we were at the top of the hill and we could see the crystal clear lake on one side and the glaciers on the other. Bad roads lead to good destination and I realized it when I reached Chandratal Lake. The reflection of the snow capped mountains were portrait like an image on the clear water. The bright sun made the ice dazzle more making it difficult to look at. The first sight of the lake took away all the pain of the arduous journey. As per the locales, Chandertal is this point from where Yudhishtra (Eldest among Pandavas of the Mahabharata epic) was taken to heaven in his mortal form. It is also believed to be blessed, and visited by fairies at night. At a height of around 14100 feet above sea level, the lake is surrounded by scree, and brown mountains, which in the winter season turn white.
The huge cirque here offers a magnificent view of the lake and far off snow-clad peaks of the Himalayan Mountain Range; thus, making it a paradise for photographers. The rolling hills, green meadows, wild flora and small waterfalls on the way will urge you to say WOW! Upon reaching this Himalayan Lake, you will be bewitched with its shades of brown, azure and white as it perfectly blends with the surroundings, which are all grassy and mountainous. You may say it is completely surreal! After all the water seemed to quench all thirst and we missed no chance to flush out our kidneys with this water. I gobbled the water like a thirsty duck.
After spending some quality time rejuvenating and relaxing, we walked back to the parking area where Arijit and Tamasi were already waiting for us. We were hungry and lunch was served in no time. At the elevation the plain rice and dal was like the best meal I ever had in the trip.
Returning from Taal
The Great Food for the day
To be continued ...