Quote:
Originally Posted by akshay4587 The trick of driving in snow even in a 4WD without chains, is to not lose momentum, if you lose it, there is a fat chance that you will get stuck and if you lose traction, the snow below the Tyres quickly turns into ice making them spin freely without any movement.
Now to move forward, I had to ensure that I do not lose traction, else I would have got stuck as well.
Shifted to 2L and gently released the clutch, and I slowly inched forward and parked my thar ahead after finding a flat patch with less snow. |
Hey, quite an adventure...
Not sure if you meant to say you shifted into 4Lo (you wrote 2L, which is only an option on slightly modded 3-lever Dana-Spicers, afaik!)...
To preface my thoughts/advice here:
Apart from a couple years' hiatus in South India, I've been driving in snow in hilly places since I got my driving permit in 1985... actually even before that on our (sloped) driveway, and always rode around in snow a lot with dad as a kid (mom refused to join our joy-rides); Also had a little time in the plow trucks of a friend who ran a snow-removal service and was careful to observe some of his techniques in really deep, heavy snow (which vs. powder is mostly what we get at hill-station altitudes in the Indian Himalayas). Personally our family never owned a 4x4 despite residing in the "snow-belt", and yet managed quite a bit of hill driving incl in "virgin" snow (sans salt/sand/dirt/ash/cinders added) with 2wd's over the years without ever getting seriously stuck. Though indeed there were a couple of harrowing experiences when we pushed the limits of our cars / tyres.
As you say, you don't want to lose traction, don't want to spin your wheels at any time (unless you're out doing power-drifts in a parking lot) especially whilst attempting to get going from a stop.
That said, 4-Low is not generally going to be a good choice in snowy conditions, actually can be counter-productive. Gives too much torque too suddenly, even when you're trying to release the clutch as slowly as possible - and right there, you've broken traction!
What I do when I get near my limits of traction in the really slippery stuff is actually leave it in high range (if you have a 4x4), and in fact forego 1st gear for starts, in favor of using 2nd or even 3rd... May sound contrary to logic, but in truth it really works. In this case DO NOT touch the accelerator unless absolutely necessary... Instead half-clutch at idle or just off-idle till you get rolling at a decent speed - may take ten seconds or more to release the clutch slowly enough to maintain grip and gain speed, but this, in my experience, is the best way to apply power super-gently. Same thing when approaching inclines... do NOT downshift as you would normally to get the engine into its more powerful range... you do not want power - if you have a turbo, absolutely must keep revs out of the boost range. As you say you want momentum. As such, I "short-shift" (upshift very early) when accelerating, and keep in a higher gear than usual when climbing. Normally this would be bad for a clutch and engine main bearings, but hey - sometimes you gotta do whatcha gotta do!
This worked for me/us on just about everything from old 1970's American RWD tanks (though those were automatics, which I do not prefer in snow) and MT 2wd pickups, Datsun Z cars (incl. turbo), old fwd Honda Civics, the 7-series BMW, Mitsubishi Starion turbo, etc... to our present Marshal 4x4... which does admirably well in the white stuff (I do have proper imported Blizzaks on it at present, but the old JK Trak-Tuff 6.00x16's were really something to rave about) - IF it will start in that cold!!!
Of course there are different types of snow, and no one tyre is best on all of them.
Also should note that limited-slip diffs (which a few of the aforementioned were equipped with) are a two-edged sword here - they DO help you move out in situations where one wheel is on a more slippery surface than the other... BUT they also tend to make rwd cars fishtail or go sideways (oversteer)... particularly if applying power in turns. Locking diffs are even worse in that regard. Many would argue that the best setup for snow is a 4x4 with open diffs... of course in the modern age we have AWD's with traction-control/ ESC, etc, which may help give the best of both, assuming they've also got the requisite ground clearance.
Having said all this, 8-10" is a far amount, and on big sheets of glare ice, well, without metal-studded winter tyres, all bets are off! Chains may push forward a bit better, but do not help at all for control there.
Hope this proves useful for someone...
And always remember: 4x4 / AWD are not miracle-workers... and sometimes it is just best to stay home in front of the fire (if you have one)...
-Eric