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Old 30th December 2021, 12:31   #1
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6000 km, 7 States, 2 plates of Kolhapuri chicken and 1 orange

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(Padubidri beach near Mangaluru in Karnataka. It is India's newest "Blue Flag" category beach.)

A short highway drive some days ago led to this blog post.

Three of us drove down from Delhi to Udaipur, then Udaipur to Mumbai and then Mumbai to a beach in north Goa, where we reached a bit tired at night but still found the time to chill. Days later, we drove onwards to a town near Mangaluru to see the beaches.

No one gives a sherbet these days, so this post will omit annoyances like scenery, sunset, the mountains-are-calling and I-love-travel nonsense.

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(Mangaluru-Goa highway.)

My mother, three years away from turning 70, for a long time knows some nuts and bolts have come loose in my head. She is used to hearing unexpected things from people about me. When word reached her that I have decided to drive down south thousands of kilometres with some people from Delhi, with the possibility that I may drive back home alone for a few thousand kilometres more, she tried to change my mind.

"No, no, no," she said on the phone at night, far away from Imphal. "It's very dangerous. What if you get hurt in an accident, or worse?"

"Accidents happen all the time," I said. "But we will be fine," I told her, not entirely sure about that. Got to tell you, who can predict the future? After a while she agreed she would be cool about it.

Mothers are like that. But they will let you go eventually. They know that you, too, have been collecting years.

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(The Delhi to Udaipur drive took 14 hours with a lot of coffee breaks.)

After a good night's rest of eight hours, we set out for Udaipur from Delhi at 6 in the morning. A lab in Jaipur, a city that falls on our route, agreed to take samples for COVID-19 test. Any cop at state borders could ask for an RT-PCR report even if you are fully vaccinated. Whatever the cop says is final when you are travelling by road, so we decided to be well-prepared. The only chai-paani I like is the one I have myself.

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(Surathkal, a beautiful beach town near Mangaluru, Karnataka.)

We reached Udaipur at 9 pm. For dinner, we ordered red hot Rajasthani mutton laal maas, which was hot but not red. Maybe the dim lights in the rooftop restaurant should take the blame for the confusion over food colour. Anyway, this drive across seven states - Delhi, Haryana, Rajasthan, Gujarat, Maharashtra, Goa and Karnataka - opened up infinite possibilities of tasting the best food in each state.

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(The national highways for the most part were good. Gujarat has excellent state highways.)

The next morning we entered the Gujarat border at 10 am. A police officer stopped us to check documents and asked, "Carrying any daaru?" We said no, of course, and he let us through.

Next came the Godhra bypass, a state highway with a super smooth surface and proper markings that made driving quite fun. The state highways in Gujarat are better than some national highways. There is no argument on this.

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(We particularly liked the Canacona to Karwar stretch while going from Goa to Karnataka.)

Baroda, Surat and hunger followed soon. We drove past dhaba after dhaba with "only veg" and "pure veg only" signboards, until we found one with a poster that showed an omelette. This place had gone full retard on eggs with a menu of some 20 egg dishes - egg keema, egg kebab, vegetable egg, to name a few.

Over 13 hours of driving put us right on the doorstep of Navi Mumbai. Pushing and fighting your way inside a coach in Delhi's busy Rajiv Chowk metro station is way easier than entering Mumbai during evening rush hour traffic.

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(Tunnel on Mumbai-Pune expressway.)

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(Ghat section on Mumbai-Pune expressway.)

There are two main routes from Mumbai to Goa. The first is a twisty old highway that passes through ghat roads, and the second is a straight run on the plains via Pune and Kolhapur. Many prefer the second route because why not? The old highway is full of potholes, back pain and feelings about taking a U-turn for home ASAP.

We stopped at Kolhapur bypass for Kolhapuri chicken. The waiter walked out from the kitchen holding a bowl of red hot chunky chicken pieces. This time the chicken was indeed red and hot. See for yourself in the photo below.

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(Kolhapuri chicken. Call the fire department.)

The road from Nipani in Karnataka all the way to the Goa border is narrow. But it was on this stretch that we liked stopping for tea and filter coffee the most.

We reached Goa at night on Day 3 after we drove out from Delhi.

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(This bend is just a kilometre from the Karnataka-Goa border, after which Amboli ghat starts.)

Some days later we prepped for the ride to our next destination - Surathkal, a clean, green and quiet beach town 20 km from Mangaluru in Karnataka.

Fish thaali in Karwar, on the Karnataka-Goa border, and filter coffee in Udupi really charged up the drive to Surathkal, where we reached in no time and stayed at a friend's house, just a 10-minute walk from a white, sandy beach.

We chilled at Surathkal for two days, visited Mangaluru and enjoyed ghee roast chicken and gadbad ice-cream.

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(Chicken ghee roast at Mangaluru's famous Shetty Lunch Home.)

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(Can't get enough of Padubidri beach.)

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When the time to return home came, a small but not an entirely unexpected problem presented itself like magic. See, I drove down with two friends all the way from Delhi, but they flew back to attend a wedding. A stern message came from home that either I find someone to ride shotgun on the return leg, or I give the car to Agarwal Packers and Movers and fly back. I cannot drive back alone, the serious people at home said.

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(Beautiful coastal Karnataka.)

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The only person who came to mind was an old friend from school, who in Class 12 taught me how to drive a motorcycle wrong and wreck it. By now we go back a quarter of a century. I dialled him and presented the plan - he would fly down to Goa, stay for a day, and drive back with me to Delhi with a night's stop each in Mumbai and Udaipur. "You can eat anything you like, stop anywhere you like," I told him. It did the trick. He took a flight to Goa within 24 hours with only a small backpack.

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(Morjim beach, Goa.)

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(Sharab, mind it)

The return leg did not play out any different than how we had come. We took the same routes, but backwards. Again, the Godhra bypass state highway had excellent reflective markings for night drive. The Rajasthan-Gujarat border near Udaipur had similar safety features. These two stretches helped a lot in improving night driving skills.

That's all people. And about that orange, I forgot where I had kept it for the entire trip. When I finally reached home, it tumbled out from the magazine holder of the front seat.

Fin.

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(Not washed for 15 days. Call it the fashionable road trip look.)

The fine print

Vehicle: Maruti Suzuki Ignis K12 petrol, tyres upsized by 20 mm to 195/60/R15

Total toll cost: Rs 5,210 (as per FASTag statement)

Total fuel cost: Rs 28,000 (approximate)

Best roads: Udaipur to Gujarat border, Udaipur-Jaipur highway, Godhra bypass, Mumbai-Pune expressway, Udupi to Surathkal highway

Worst roads: 30 km from Amboli ghat to north Goa border, exit from Navi Mumbai to Thane, Gurgaon-Jaipur highway (road surface is relatively smooth, but it's really bad for night driving due to absence of lane markings on the road; you can get blinded with oncoming headlights and not find directional help since the white lines on the road are missing)

Recommended dhabas and restaurants: Shree Mahalaxmi Seafood Restaurant, Kolhapur bypass; Shetty Lunch Home, Mangaluru; Cafe de Voyage, Margao; Laxmi Family Restaurant and Bar, Morjim.

Last edited by Sheel : 3rd January 2022 at 21:48. Reason: Rule #11
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Old 2nd January 2022, 11:56   #2
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Re: 6000 km, 7 States, 2 plates of Kolhapuri chicken and 1 orange

What a wonderful journey driver52001, thanks for sharing this experience
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Old 2nd January 2022, 12:31   #3
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Re: 6000 km, 7 States, 2 plates of Kolhapuri chicken and 1 orange

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Originally Posted by hey.rudey View Post
What a wonderful journey driver52001, thanks for sharing this experience
Thank you. Wish I could have added more about the machine itself, how the car performed and how the larger tyres helped, etc. Will keep that for comments section now
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Old 2nd January 2022, 12:42   #4
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Re: 6000 km, 7 States, 2 plates of Kolhapuri chicken and 1 orange

Absolutely stunning travelogue.
I wish I could just pack and leave too.
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Old 2nd January 2022, 13:11   #5
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Re: 6000 km, 7 States, 2 plates of Kolhapuri chicken and 1 orange

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Originally Posted by vredesbyrd View Post
Absolutely stunning travelogue.
I wish I could just pack and leave too.
Thank you. Mine was in planning for 2 years, then Covid happened. But this time I felt a bit tired (and eventually reckless) after nearly 2 years of WFH, so decided will do it anyhow and make peace with it. Was quite a release. On the brighter side the family also enjoyed the Goa to Mangalore leg as they flew down from Delhi till Goa to participate in that segment, and flew back home.
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Old 2nd January 2022, 18:49   #6
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Re: 6000 km, 7 States, 2 plates of Kolhapuri chicken and 1 orange

@driver52001 needs some enthusiasm to plan and drive like this since traffic in India can be unpredictable at any point of time.

Very good write up. Please share car performance, Goa experience in detail as update in this thread whenever possible.

Cheers.
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Old 3rd January 2022, 11:58   #7
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Re: 6000 km, 7 States, 2 plates of Kolhapuri chicken and 1 orange

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Originally Posted by Guru_Shikhar View Post
...traffic in India can be unpredictable at any point of time...
Thanks. Had to plan a bit, but it wasn't that exhaustive as I had thought. A basic look at the routes and some reading of what the members here have posted about the routes were good enough. But yes, you need to take a clean 15-20 days of leave to go this kind of distance comfortably, with lots of break. Will add some more details I have missed out in the main post soon. Take care. Cheers
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Old 3rd January 2022, 12:56   #8
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Re: 6000 km, 7 States, 2 plates of Kolhapuri chicken and 1 orange

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Originally Posted by driver52001 View Post
The only chai-paani I like is the one I have myself.
And we discover another highly talented blogger/writer!! Looks like T-BHP - aside from being the premier auto-enthusiast forum that it is - is also developing some serious creative talent.

@driver52001 - the context of your droll humor is as perfect as the material you put out. Loved reading this piece and hope to follow the other way round (being from Bangalore myself) - soon as the Omicron picture is a little clearer.

Last edited by aah78 : 4th January 2022 at 00:27. Reason: Quote trimmed.
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Old 3rd January 2022, 13:20   #9
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Re: 6000 km, 7 States, 2 plates of Kolhapuri chicken and 1 orange

Pretty cool travel experience. Nice pics too. About Gujarat and finding the dhaba with 20 egg dishes, if you come to Ahmedabad (or Surat) you might even find some with 250 (not kidding) egg items on menu. Since we don’t eat meat, we go bananas with eggs

Good to know the road surface in Rajasthan/Gujarat is good, planning a trip north and it would help.
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Old 3rd January 2022, 16:02   #10
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Re: 6000 km, 7 States, 2 plates of Kolhapuri chicken and 1 orange

Awesome Travel blog. 6000kms is quite long drive and I am sure you would have enjoyed very bit of it.

I really loved the pictures. Especially the ones on Food and the Beach.

The food snaps left me mouthwatering and the beach pictures left me wanting a beach holiday..!
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Old 3rd January 2022, 21:32   #11
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Re: 6000 km, 7 States, 2 plates of Kolhapuri chicken and 1 orange

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...developing some serious creative talent.
Thank you. But the real talent is somewhere else on this forum. Maybe you haven't seen this (Spooky Experiences : Share them here)
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Old 3rd January 2022, 21:35   #12
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Re: 6000 km, 7 States, 2 plates of Kolhapuri chicken and 1 orange

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Originally Posted by allinbalance View Post
Good to know the road surface in Rajasthan/Gujarat is good, planning a trip north and it would help.
Thank you. My tragedy was I drove down with two Bengalis. Even across the plains of Gujarat they had mutton cravings, so I had to stop somewhere and feed them anything linked to non-veg to shut them up. You should definitely drive up north for a break once Covid is long over. I plan to visit some places in Gujarat next.
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Old 4th January 2022, 00:07   #13
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Re: 6000 km, 7 States, 2 plates of Kolhapuri chicken and 1 orange

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Originally Posted by driver52001 View Post
My mother, three years away from turning 70, for a long time knows some nuts and bolts have come loose in my head. She is used to hearing unexpected things from people about me.
.
.
They know that you, too, have been collecting years.

Well, you have good convincing skills with bit of philosophical insights.

But still, it was quite a long trip and you seems to have enjoyed a lot.
On return journey, your offer was quite tempting for your fellow friend to join your company for obvious reasons.

Last edited by aah78 : 4th January 2022 at 00:30. Reason: Quote trimmed. BOLD removed.
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Old 4th January 2022, 10:17   #14
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Re: 6000 km, 7 States, 2 plates of Kolhapuri chicken and 1 orange

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Thank you. My tragedy was I drove down with two Bengalis. Even across the plains of Gujarat they had mutton cravings, so I had to stop somewhere and feed them anything linked to non-veg to shut them up. You should definitely drive up north for a break once Covid is long over. I plan to visit some places in Gujarat next.
Uh! Oh! @driver52001 - you got me there - Bengali myself!!! Anyway, your blog was compelling enough for a plan to drive up North. I have a pre-loved vehicle post coming up one of the existing forum threads - so will work out based on that car.

Sorry for asking like this but this forum is now so big - its hard to trace older threads - do you or anyone have any experience driving / photo-blogging in Western Rajasthan? Say the Jaipur - Bikaner - Jaisalmer - Jodhpur - Ajmer - Jaipur circuit?
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Old 13th January 2022, 16:50   #15
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Re: 6000 km, 7 States, 2 plates of Kolhapuri chicken and 1 orange

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Originally Posted by bhargav_dave View Post
Good to know the road surface in Rajasthan/Gujarat is good, planning a trip north and it would help.
This was my first time driving across Gujarat. Saw with my own eyes what they say about Gujarat roads. They are excellent. But truck traffic was high because of ports and cargo, compared to some roads in the north. Cheers
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