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Old 1st January 2023, 18:23   #1
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Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek

I want to express my gratitude to the moderators for accepting me into this wonderful forum. My know how about automobiles is extremely limited but I have developed a passion in this field thanks to T-BHP. Hardly a day goes by without me giving a glance into the homepage.
One passion that has always been a constant throughout my life is traveling. Below is a brief account of my most recent trekking expedition. It's 3 months old but still very fresh in my memory.

Prologue


Ever since missing the Annapurna Base camp trek in 2019 I have been itching to go back to the lap of the Himalayas. Started planning for routes and ideal time from May this year with Tanumay (my college buddy and companion on all my treks). After numerous calls, chats and discussion we finally decided for a trek in Tosh valley, Himachal during late September. But as it is said ‘man proposes and God disposes’ there was a mishap and Himachal Govt restricted any treks beyond 15k ft after 15th Sept. https://www.tribuneindia.com/news/hi...mber-15-430150

The preparation


At the last moment we had to switch our attention to a less frequented route of Deo Tibba Base camp and Chhota Chandrataal (not the popular Chadratal of Spiti). Deo Tibba base camp is a moderate trek from Manali at a maximum altitude of 14600 ft approximately. We intended to go till Bada Chandrataal which is another 200 ft (approximately) higher from Deo Tibba base camp.

The team: total 15 members
Debdutta, me
Tanumay, the chief organizer
Atanu (friend from Rupin Pass), his wife and brother
Sudip and Pritam: the Youngsters
Arnab Da: The senior(most) citizen of the group
Last but not least, human calculator -Krishnendu

Support Staff:
Guide- Rajesh (from Kullu), cook, and four porters

These were the things to be carried by porters:
Equipment: Four 3-Men tent, One kitchen tent, One toilet tent, cooking utensils
Ration: Raw vegetables, and grocery. Stove and diesel

Trek Itinerary: We agreed upon the following schedule after discussing with the guide. There was no buffer/reserve day.
Sept 24, Saturday: Manali to 12000 RD by road, followed by trek to Chikka
Sept 25, Sunday: Chikka to Seri
Sept 26, Monday: Seri to Tainta
Sept 27, Tuesday: Tainta to Chndrataal and back to Deo Tibba Base Camp
Sept 28, Wednesday: Deo Tibba Base Camp to Seri
Sept 29, Thursday: Seri to 12000 RD and Manali

Permits: Trek permit was arranged by our guide.
To travel by road till 12000 RD (which is inside AD hydropower project) permission was managed by local sumo drivers.

Before delving into the details take a look at one of numerous stream crossings.
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Old 2nd January 2023, 00:22   #2
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re: Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek

Day -2: Sept 21 Wednesday
Since I am based in Delhi, 8 other members of our group took the train from Kolkata to Delhi. They were supposed to reach Delhi by 10/11 AM the following day and do some sight seeing

Day -1: Sept 22 Thursday
Due to some work in the Delhi Kolkata route, trains were delayed by upto 4-6 hrs.To add to that there was some heavy and incessant rainfall in Delhi/NCR that week. Sightseeing was canceled and they barely managed to check into a hotel for a few hours and freshened up.

Our Delhi to Manali bus was the trusted HRTC Volvo from Kashmere Gate ISBT. Though the timings were impeccable, the same can’t be said about the service quality. Actually it has degraded from the last time I traveled on them in 2015 for going to Bhuntar for Sar Pass.
For example, they used to give 1 lt bottle now only ½ lt. There were no curtains on the windows. The seat fabrics had become dull and looked dirty. The ride quality was also not at all comfortable for such long distance traveling in mountains. No wonder they are facing stiff competition from Zing bus and the like.

Day 0: Sept 23 Friday
We reached Manali by 9 AM, checked into the hotel “Neelam” near Manali volvo bus stand. We discussed and finalized with our guide and cook about the itinerary, all the equipment, raw material, etc that needed to be bought or hired. We won’t get anything once we leave Manali.
The entire day was spent arranging all these. Kitchen and toilet tent, cooking utensils were hired from Manali
Though the morning was sunny and bright, by noon it was overcast with spells of light rain. The forecast for the next two days was not so good and heavy rainfall was predicted. We were warned and advised to delay our trek by two days by local people.

Manali from our hotel
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220924080134.jpg

Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_3946.jpg

Getting ready with food and fuel
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_3944.jpg

Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_3939.jpg


Day 1: Sept 24 Saturday (Manali to Chikka)
We couldn’t postpone our trek as we had return reservations and since it was festive season it would be very difficult to arrange alternative arrangements. So we set out wishing for the best outcome and praying for a healthy return of all* members of our group. As Ed Viesturs said “Getting to the top is optional. Getting down is mandatory.”
We packed all our bags and sacks on the top of a Tata Sumo and began our ride till the 12000 RD point of the hydro power project.

12000 RD: this term was quite confusing, as we couldn't figure out what it actually meant. We crossed over to right of Beas and took the Kullu-Nagar-Manali Rd. After we entered the checkpost of the project it became clear. The road till the dam was under construction and it was a way of marking the distance or locations along the path. For example we could see markings like 1000 RD, 1050 RD, etc along the road. So we made our assumptions. The road condition was terrible and we traveled till 10000 RD. From there the road was closed for construction. This was 10000 RD.

So our trek began. The weather was gloomy with light drizzle. We had to put on our waterproofs and ponchos. In 20 mins or so we came to the last motorable point aka 12000 RD. From there on our path went into the forest, just behind the dam.

At the checkpost:
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220924102421.jpg

The permit:
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220924103507.jpg

The Dam:
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220924115259.jpg

Our team:
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20230101wa0009.jpg

The trek starts:


Soon we had to cross a stream and get to its right side (of the flow). This stream was probably called as (Jagatsukh Nala) by locals. On the other side, the forest was denser. We were gradually gaining altitude.
After about 1 hr of walking, the forest ended and we came out in the open. As there was light to moderate drizzle we had our poncho on throughout. We took a break. Munched on some dry fruits. Everybody was in a very jovial mood. We noticed there were numerous thin streams of water trickling down the mountain slopes. We filled our bottles from such a stream that was easily accessible.

Since the trek for today was very brief we had planned to go till Doda Pathhar instead of Chikka which was 2-3 km ahead of Chikka. But soon we realized the rain was getting heavier and unless we find a shelter we will get completely drenched. That will jeopardize our trek.
We communicated our thoughts to the guide who also concurred. But the problem was Chikka was still some way from there. So ultimately when we did reach Chikka camp site our rucksacks were a little wet. The cook and his staff only put up the kitchen tent, so we had to erect a tent to keep our bags. This was extremely challenging in steady rain and wind. Somehow we managed to keep our bags and shoes from getting further wet. Went to the kitchen tent and had some hot tea.

Rest of the afternoon and evening went uneventfully as we had to remain inside our tent due to bad weather. While taking dinner we inquired with our guide about some establishments a little further from where we had camped. It would have been a much better shelter in midst of that incessant rain. However he wasn’t so sure about it so we dropped the idea.

We could hardly sleep that night. The sound of raindrops on the tent roof was bringing back memories of Doring valley during GoechaLa trek, when a similar rainy weather ruined our whole trek. There were a total of 3 tents and we could sense that all of us were awake. After midnight we felt the base of our tent getting wet. We realized the tents we had hired were of dubious quality.

Chikka Campsite:
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_3953.jpg

Shepherds house:
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_3950.jpg

A small clip of the route:
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Old 2nd January 2023, 20:32   #3
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Re: Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek

Day-2: Sept 25, Sun (Stranded at Chikka)
Anyway, somehow that night passed and with it any chance of starting the next day's trek on time. Rather all of us were busy accessing how much damage the night has caused. By the way, the rain didn’t stop and our guide informed us that the few houses that we talked about last night could be used as shelter. That was some good news at last. Otherwise there would have been no other option but to abandon the trek on the second day. To our dismay that could yet be possible.

Me and Atanu, both opined that our tents were not of adequate quality. So it may pose a greater problem at higher altitude. We won’t find any alternative then and that was risky. One thing became sure that we will be spending another night at Chikka.
The shelters proved to be life saving for us. There was even a fireplace. So we wasted little time drying our belongings like sleeping bags, shoes, jackets, etc.

The rest of the day and evening was spent leisurely. The Shepherd's shelter in which we were staying had kitchen. Some ration was also kept inside an iron trunk. There was a temple with a Shivling. Our the stay was not entirely mundane. The kitchen tent was not relocated. For every meals we had to trek from our shelter to the kitchen tent. This was no less than an expedition since the whole region was covered with muddy water. We literally had to climb and walk on the stone wall encompassing these houses in order to avoid the swamp. That was really challenging, specially at night.

At dusk the rain was still pouring in. All of us decided to wait and hoped we would see some sun the next morning. The idea of abandoning the trek just after two days would be heart wrenching.
"Dada ekbar baire eso" -Pritam suddenly called us outside. It was chilly. We were just about to go inside our sleeping bags. We asked what the hell happened. Why was he so excited? Once we got out he showed us the starry night sky. At first glimpse we couldn’t believe it, since it was raining until a few hours ago. That was a brilliant sight before going to sleep.

Below are some snaps of the shepherds house:

Our Shelter:
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_3954.jpg

Inside:
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_3963.jpg

Clear sky at last
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220926070316.jpg

clicked next morning (see the terrible mud outside)
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220926080719-1.jpg


Day-3: Sept 26, Mon

Spotless blue sky welcomed us the next morning to all of our delight. But along with it came a new sense of apprehension:
What if we go ahead and meet the same fate again?
What will be our new itinerary?
Will there be enough food for all of us if we go ahead?
So on and so forth.
In the meantime Atanu said he and his wife and brother will be going back as they didn’t want to take any risks. That was sad and might have demoralized a few more of us.
The guide also detailed a curtailed itinerary in which we will not be staying at the base camp. Instead, we would be coming down to Seri, provided there were no further interruptions.

So finally we were back on the trek. The destination for that day was Seri. A gradual climb of 6 km. After having a good breakfast we set out. We waved a final goodbye to Atanu and his family as they were going back to Manali.

It's really amazing how a sunny morning can lift the spirit of a gloomy heart. It seemed all our problems were behind us. We marched on merrily, stopping at every opportunity to devour the beauties of nature and capture it as precious moments in our mind. However, the trail had become very slippery and small streams were running all over them. We were holding on to branches and bushes to balance ourselves. It was fun. Soon a stream had to be crossed, which was a little challenging.

Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220926092830.jpg

Reduced from 9 to 6 but spirits remain high
(From left to Right: Tanumay, Krisnendu, Arnab Da, Pritam, me, Sudip)
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20230101wa0013.jpg

Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220926105606.jpg

That's me
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220926104325.jpg

The initial part of the trek was through sparse forest. But once it ended we could see all the mountain ranges in front of us as if they were waiting for us. The view was really breathtaking. At the same time we had to be careful to not slip, especially on the exposed edges.
At noon we reached Doda Pathar which could have been a really nice campsite. We took a break and finished the lunch that was packed by our cook in the morning. Then we resumed our journey. There were scattered clouds throughout the day. None of them look threatening earlier. Now dense and gray clouds had started accumulating in a portion of the sky. Our guide decided that those of us who could walk fast should try and reach camp and put up the tents. Considering what we had gone through already, we didn't waste a minute and Pritam, Sudip and I went ahead quickly.

When we reached the campsite at Seri it was roughly 2.30 PM. The sun was mostly hiding behind the clouds as if teasing and testing our nerves. The porters had erected the kitchen tent as usual and were just starting to put up one of our tents.
The Seri campsite was right beside the stream we had been following since the first day. It was the source of water for all of our needs. There we met a few shepherds. They said winter had come and it was time to go back to their villages. Soon the rest of our gang arrived. The evening was spent having a bowl of delicious maggi by the river.
Thankfully the day went without any further hiccups and we all prayed that night be as peaceful.

After sunset Seri becomes very chilly with temperatures touching zero. There was slight cloud cover but our guide said it was nothing to worry about. I felt very cold that night and was continuously shivering even inside my sleeping bag.

Seri Campsite
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_3975.jpg

Maggi by the Meandering stream
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20230101wa0008.jpg

Inside kitchen tent (best place to stay amid chilly winds outside)
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220926165616.jpg

Sun playing 'Hide and Seek'
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_3978.jpg
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Old 2nd January 2023, 23:03   #4
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Re: Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek

Day 4: Sept 27, Tue (Seri to Tainta)

Next morning we were greeted with a blue and clear sky. The sun was just beginning to shower its light and warmth on the neighbouring peaks. By the time it flooded the valley and made its way into our tents we were busy organizing our packs for the day ahead.

Breakfast was tasteless daliya kheer which we could barely eat. The cook said we were running short of sugar and milk powder. The packed lunch was roti and sabzi.

The trek for today was a gradual walk of about 2-3 km followed by a steep climb.
After we had completed the easy part, we came to the foot of the slope which had to be climbed but not sure which trail should be taken. Actually there was no specific path visible. After exploring the terrain and the region the guide told us to take off our shoes and took us through a marshland. We had to cross 2-3 streams of bone chilling water. It was exciting. After that the route became evident but a steep slope laid ahead of us.

Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_3992.jpg

Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_3990.jpg

Taking some rest (three senior citizens )
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_3993.jpg

Searching the trail. The flat table like portion just left of the centre. That's where we were heading
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-20220927_094411.jpg

The marsh
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-20220927_100727.jpg

Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220927094547.jpg

Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_4002.jpg


It was 12 noon. So we had plenty of time to cover the rest of the trek for that day. We went ahead very leisurely after finishing the packed lunch. Even moving at a slow pace was not easy, since we were gaining altitude rapidly now. We were forced to take small rests every now and then. However the snowy peaks on our right and numerous waterfalls on our left was such a beautiful sight. It continuously healed our tired legs and soothed our souls.
After overcoming the steep slope we went ahead across a grassland to our campsite at Tainta. Just before reaching the camps, we had to again take off our shoes to cross a stream. It wasn’t fun anymore, actually dreadful. Since by that time the sky was more or less overcast and the temperature was easily close to zero.

The Tainta campsite was unique, as it was like a very big marshland. It was necessary to tread cautiously otherwise our boots could easily get stuck in the grassy water. Maybe the continuous rain over the last few days had turned a perfect grassland marshy.
The views from this campsite were the best. Snow capped peaks surrounded on most sides. The continuous rumble of the stream which had been accompanying us had become a distant rippling sound by now.

It was extremely cold and windy here. Our dinner was complete by 7 PM. Within an hour we were inside our sleeping bags. Next day was a big one. We had to climb almost 15000 ft and go down till Seri. It is going to be an arduous day.

Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_4006.jpg

Spot how many waterfall?
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_4005.jpg

View from top (after climbing the steep slope)
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_4012.jpg

Tainta Campsite
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220927140600.jpg

Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-20220927_151833.jpg


Day 5: Sep 28,Wed (Tainta - Deo Tibba Basecamp - Tainta - Seri)

We all woke up early before day broke. Starting early was necessary. We could see dew drops on our tent had frozen overnight. We couldn’t dare to brush in this subzero temperature.
It was planned that all our support staff would descend to lower camp (Seri) barring the guide and one of the porters. By the time we started we could see sun rays emerging from behind the mountain peaks.
Initially the trek was through a stretch of moraines. Then there was another stream. Luckily we didn’t have to take out our shoes. We could see numerous glaciers melting to form small streams and rivulets.
A few steps ahead we saw the Deo Tibba peak. Actually it was not like a peak since the summit was a snow dome and flat table like. It is believed to be the assembling site of the Gods. And mountaineers who attempt the summit, must stop a few paces behind the ice cap.
The climb was getting really tough. Each and every step was like a big effort and required determination. Once we covered a steep slope, the rest of the trail was over a mountain ridge. There were snow patches scattered over there. At around 9 or 10 AM we came to the Deo Tibba base camp site. There was a very small stagnant water body which could not be called a lake. The porter said it is mini chandratal. And the actual chandratal was behind another steep mountain wall. The problem was not all members of our group had reached there. By the time they came, we could see clouds forming over the south eastern sky which looked threatening. We took a break, clicked some group photos.
I have to admit the lake was quite underwhelming and was dwarfed in front of such majestic peaks which surrounded it.
It was decided we won't be going till bada chandratal. There was not enough steam left in us to climb a further 200 ft. And the weather could also become worse. Of course we had a long descent coming up. So we abandoned going further up. I will always repent this moment. At the same time, I couldn't help but think about our situation 3 days ago. We had to almost cancel our trek. Considering that, I thanked the Almighty for taking us this far.
The descent was just fine and we took all our time to reach Seri. About 1 hr from the campsite there was a big cloud which engulfed the valley. Ponchos were back on. The weather cleared by sunset. It was our last camp so we cleared the dues of all the porters, cook and the guide. The porters and cook would leave early next day and I wanted to accompany them. I intended to return to Delhi by Friday early morning so that I could join my office on 30 Sept.


Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220928072545.jpg

A thin layer of ice formed on the utensils
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_4016.jpg

The 'mini' chandratal
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220928101652.jpg

Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220928100306.jpg

Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_4030.jpg

Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220928093045.jpg

Deo Tibba
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_4026.jpg

Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-20220928_102559.jpg

Glacier melting to form stream
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_4032.jpg

Stream crossing while returning from Tainta


Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img_4037.jpg

Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220928143509.jpg


Day 6: Sep 29, Thus (Seri to Manali)

It is not always the case that you wake up to see snow capped mountains around and wash your face with the pristine stream flowing near your tent. It is always difficult on the last day. More so in my case since I was in a hurry to complete the descent due to work commitments.
After completing breakfast I parted ways with my friends. I wanted to have a head start. At the beginning I was not so confident that I would be able to take the correct route. But I knew I had to follow the stream. This will ensure I won't be lost.
Just after Doda Pathar our porter group crossed me. I knew It would be extremely hard to keep pace with them. I was maintaining a steady pace with very few rests.
At Chikka there was another group camped. There I got information that our group passed that point an hour ago.

Getting lost
After Chikka I knew there will be a portion where the path disappears into the forest. It was essential to pick the right trail or else I could get lost in the forest. My fears came true. When I came to that part where the path goes into the forest, I was confused. The path which goes into the forest was not visible. The stream was also another 500 m vertically downwards. The faint roar of the stream could be heard. I thought what should be done? Should I get back to Chikka and wait for the rest of my group to arrive? I was getting anxious. Took a break of 5-10 mins. Had some dry fruits and water. Thought to myself, let's try the same technique I have been using all day. As I may have mentioned before, the main stream (Jagatsukh Nala) always accompanied us throughout our trek. It was the same one we crossed over on the first day of our trek. But this “follow the stream” technique could not be applied as the river was way down from where I was. There were trees, bushes and no path.
Then an idea occurred to me. Afterall I am descending from the mountain. I have been traveling as per my direction sense, without any guidance. It may have happened that I have not taken the downward slope and instead walked horizontally. So I thought I should try going down. But what if I am already at a lower slope and should be taking a higher path?
This was not helping me. I looked all over the vast landscape and tried to look for some help. Maybe I could spot someone grazing their cattle. One thing I was sure of was that the villages were not far away.
After a while I decided to go down by 100 ft or so. If I don't find the route I will go back to Chikka and wait for my group to arrive. After going diagonally down for 40-50 ft. I could see a flat terrain without any big bushes. I went nearer and Voila! A huge sigh of relief. At last I could identify the path which was going into the forest. There was a sense of achievement as well.

The trail inside the forest is much more clearly laid out. After another hour or so the bridge appeared which we had crossed on the first day. In no time I was down to 1200 RD. There I met with our porter group. I narrated to them how I almost got lost. They said it was risky but commended me for finally finding the way.

By 1 PM we were at Manali mall road. I went to a cafe and enjoyed some hot coffee. Made some phone calls after almost a week. I again booked the Manali Delhi HRTC due to its punctuality. The bus departed Manali at 3 PM.
There was a long traffic jam just before Mandi. So it meant the 12 hour journey ended up being 15. I reached Delhi at 6.30 PM 30 Sept Friday.

On reflection I think good weather is the secret behind any successful trek. Even a fairly moderate trek can become extremely challenging otherwise.

Few parting shots

The bridge we crossed the very first morning (clicked during the return)
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220929111443-1.jpg

The last camp
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220929061005.jpg

Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20220928111127.jpg

Someone tried to be immortal, another contemplating
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-20220927_161154.jpg

United we stand
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-img20230101wa0005.jpg

Caption it
Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek-20220929_132951.jpg


Thanks for reading.
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Old 6th January 2023, 09:23   #5
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Re: Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek

Thanks for the nice travelogue. How much did it cost per head?
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Old 9th January 2023, 11:40   #6
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Re: Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek

Well, very roughly the cost came to around 15000/- Delhi to Delhi (per person).

This inclues:

1. HRTC bus fares Delhi Manali both way
2. One night hotel stay at Manali

But since our team trimmed fown to 6 from 9, the expense increased somewhat.
Hope that helps.

Last edited by debban : 9th January 2023 at 11:47.
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Old 12th January 2023, 22:57   #7
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Re: Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek

Such a beautiful Trek.Glad the weather cleared enough to complete it.Did you guys carry your own tents and gear ?
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Old 13th January 2023, 09:27   #8
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Re: Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek

Amazing trek and an equally captivating narration.
I could feel the shiver in me when you almost got lost.
Glad you made it.
And of course, superb photos.
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Old 15th January 2023, 19:19   #9
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Re: Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek

Quote:
Originally Posted by Capri89 View Post
Amazing trek and an equally captivating narration.
I could feel the shiver in me when you almost got lost.
Glad you made it.
And of course, superb photos.
Thanks. And yes it was a scary moment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by vijayols View Post
Such a beautiful Trek.Glad the weather cleared enough to complete it.Did you guys carry your own tents and gear ?
Yes indeed, the weather was much better after first 2 days.
We carried all the tents, sleeping bags, etc with us. But of course we couldn't carry so much weight ourselves so we needed porters.
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Old 16th January 2023, 10:51   #10
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Re: Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek

Beautiful pictures and an awesome trekking story. Seems your entire group of fellow trekkers were from Bengal as evident in one of the videos posted by you. Well done once again and wish you post many more such TL in the future. Rate 5 stars
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Old 17th January 2023, 20:43   #11
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Re: Deo Tibba Base Camp Trek

Quote:
Originally Posted by haisaikat View Post
Beautiful pictures and an awesome trekking story. Seems your entire group of fellow trekkers were from Bengal as evident in one of the videos posted by you. Well done once again and wish you post many more such TL in the future. Rate 5 stars

Thanks @haisaikat for your words of encouragement.
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