[kvsneela]

Package winter tour to Kerala
Prelude:
Our only son, who is working in NYC (after IITM, MS in Princeton, also a bachelor), visits us every year in December (except in 2020 due to Covid restrictions). This year (2022) his tour could not be finalised due to delay in his H1B extension which was approved in September 2022. But stamping could not be done in India or Mexico or Canada (where he did last time) due abnormal waiting time. Finally, he could confirm his visit only after he did the stamping in Sau Paulo, Brazil in last week of November. He booked tickets for 22nd Dec (Bangalore arrival by Air Canada operated by Etihad) and 30th Dec (Chennai departure by BA). But this time he wanted to go out as he was very much bored in Pondy during his last visit. Wife automatically planned to go to receive him at Bangalore airport (motherly nature to receive her son as soon as he lands in India) with other plans to visit her sister and my sister (Hosur). Initially I was imagining of going with car to Bengaluru and after local visits (for which car would be helpful), park the car somewhere (either of the homes or at airport itself) and after finishing the tour back to Pondy by car. But HQ (wife) did not approve this plan (of taking our car) and wanted the entire travel by train/bus (Train ticket booked) and call-taxis for which I lost interest and tried to find ways to avoid entire Bangalore visit. During one of the talks with son, he mentioned that he could directly change over and reach Kochi so that we can also reach Kochi directly. This plan was approved by HQ immediately (to my surprise) as her priority was son’s wishes( nowadays youngsters find difficult to pass time even in parents house) than visiting relatives.
The Plan:
We settled for Kerala Winter package after confusing ourselves with Rajasthan, Andaman etc., Son also liked Kerala idea and so the tour program started to take shape. There are 2 things to arrange for in this tour. 1st one was that the entire program needed to be planned on public transport only since I had to practice chastity (by not touching our car). 2nd thing was the package booking.
1.Reaching Kochi:
Since both wife and son wanted to start the tour on 22nd itself, all of us needed to reach Kochi by 22nd morning. His flight from Abu Dhabi reaches Bangalore at 3.00 AM so he booked 7.15 AM Indigo flight to Kochi. For us since there was no direct flight from Pondy to Kochi, we had to come via Chennai only for which the rates were exorbitant due to peak season. Then I tried train routes and found that there was not direct train to Kochi from Pondy but one train was from Karaikal to Ernakulam (daily). I booked Sleeper tickets and also 2AC (WL) tickets. Finally had to book 2 AC tatkal ticket one day before and cancelled other tickets. For Return, tickets (for all 3) were booked by Akasha Airlines at 7.15 PM on 27th as Indigo was shown Rs 15000 for each ticket (for 45 minutes travel time) which was more than the 3 tickets combined in Akasha.
2.Kerala package Booking
We approached 2/3 package tour operators (including Thomas Cook who have office at Pondy) for 6 days and 5 nights trip which included pick up from Airport, Munnar, Thekkady, Kumarakon, Alleppey, Kochi and back to airport. It was hotel/resort booking at Munnar, Thekkady and Kumarakon and house boat for Alleppey. Due peak season, getting house boat at Kumarakon/Alleppey became difficult and only Iris Holidays could confirm the bookings (son was particular about the resorts/hotels as he normally goes by reviews whenever he travels around the world). Booking was for one double room with extra person.
Tour Program was like this:
22nd – Morning pickup from Airport and move to Munnar (some site seeing on the way); Night at Hotel Vibe
23rd- Munnar local visits
24th- Travel to Thekkady 9.00 Am; after noon Thekkady visits; night in Thekkady at Hole Spice Grove
25th – Travel to House Boat at Kumarakon; Stay overnight; checkout by 9 am
26th – Move to Backwater Brooke resort at Kumarakon; night stay
27th – Checkout by 9 Am; Visit Kochi; drop at airport by 5 PM
After the payment of advance amount, Iris Holidays sent us the hotel booking vouchers along with receipt. As per their request we sent them our journey ticket copies so that they could arrange for our pickup. All these arrangements were over by first week of December. Afterwards the waiting started.
Day 0 (21.12.2022) Pondy to Kochi:
Finally, the D-day had arrived. For the last 3 years we were travelling by car everywhere (up to Srisailam and Wayanad) and for the first time without our car.

(Sorry.. You are not coming with us this time)
Reached Karaikal station at around 3.30. PM on 21st. Karaikal station is a small enough station to have a peaceful atmosphere. After the covid restrictions that was the first travel by Train. ( Last time I travelled by train to an urgent meeting in Kolkata by Premium tatkal in June 2019 and came back in flight as I got promotion during the meeting which made me eligible for flight travels). 2AC compartment was neat enough to have a quiet uneventful journey. Had chapatis for dinner from railway supply. Had a good sleep and reached Aluva station at about 6 A.M. (Aluva is the nearest station for Kochi Airport. Kochi metro starts from here).

Karaikal Station

Dinner
Day 1(22.12.2022) Kochi to Munnar:
We were originally ready to go to Airport by ourselves as the Tour starts from Airport. But we got a message from Iris with the name of the airport representative and plan to pick us from Aluva station itself. So, we got ready (I could take bath at the station itself but wife could not do much. Though separate retiring rooms are available for Sleeper and AC passengers, there was no checking at the entrance) and picked by driver from Iris to Airport by 8.00 AM which is about 8 km. Son sent the message that he had reached Bangalore and also Kochi flight took off as scheduled. Picked him at around 9 AM and meanwhile Iris representative came to welcome us and explained the tour program. We paid the due amount through credit card. (They provided a link through which payment could be done online.). While waiting for son to come out, somebody standing in front turned towards me with name card which displayed “Brain Lara”. I wondered whether it was “The Brain Lara”. Then Lara himself came out (though wearing mask I could recognise) but it seems nobody else noticed. Probably he came for the IPL auction (he is the head coach of SRH) to be held next day in Kochi.
So officially the tour started at 9.00 AM on 21.12.2022. Our first target was Munnar. We finished our breakfast at Mattoor and lunch at Safair at Adimali (both were good).

Breakfast hotel

Lunch hotel
Driver wanted to plan for site visits in Thekkady in advance as we had only half a day there. So, I checked online for the Periyar lake cruise which was already booked full. (Driver wanted to know in advance as he was planning to take us to some other sites which was in different route from Munnar. If we stand in queue for offline Lake cruise tickets and could not get tickets then we would be left with nothing. So, he wanted to know how much we were desperate for lake cruise. Since we were about to have boat cruise in Kumarakom, not interested much) On the way we saw 2 waterfalls i.e., Cheeyappara and Valara .

Cheeyappara falls

Valara Waterfalls
Since rainy season already finished, water flow was ok in both falls but no provision to get wet. After spending few minutes in each place, we were on the way again. Road condition was good .

On the way visited Adimali Periyar Spice Garden which had varieties of Spices and a sales outlet. It seems normally there is no entry fee but being peak season charged 100/- each and a tour guide explained all the varieties. At the back of the garden, Periyar river was in full flow. Driver told us that it is compulsory to stop here in every tour package. Wife purchased some cholesterol pills and face cream (though the price seemed very high).

Spice Garden

Periyar river
Reached Hotel Vibe at around 6 PM and since we were tired, decided to take dinner at Vibe itself as the hotel is around 14 km from Munnar town. Hotel is situated in a valley surrounded by hills.Vibe is supposed to be 5 star and so their buffet dinner cost 1000/- per person. We felt 3000/- was too much for the food we would be swallowing and opted for a-la-carte dinner which came about Rs 800 for three of us. (Major contribution was from our son as he is the only non-veg among us and requires protein in every meal). Finally retired for a good night sleep around 9 PM. Extra bed (full cot) had been arranged immediately.
Day 2(23.12.2022) Munnar:

View from Hotel Vibe
We had the complimentary buffet breakfast at Vibe and were ready by 8.30 AM to start the day. Since we did not have much clue about the itinerary, we left it to the driver to lead.
Eravikulam National Park:
It is situated some 13 km from Munnar on Udumalpettai road and famous for Nilgiris Tahr (Varaiaadu in Tamil) population. Entry ticket was 200/- for adults. Online booking is available. Free wi-fi is available near booking counter. Car parking is available. Though it was season, rush was not much. We needed to travel by mini buses inside the park. After 2 km of bus ride, needed to walk uphill to see the goats which were freely moving along the road. Buses are being run continuously. We returned after spending around 30 minutes. More than the goats the views were stunning.

Eravikulam National Park

Rajamala.

Tahr Goat
Tea Museum:
On the way back to Munnar, visited the Tea Museum named KDHP Ripple Tea Museum(it seems there are other such museums here). Entry ticket was Rs 125/- for adults. Museum houses a gallery of antiques / paintings dating a century back and traversing through the Tea evolution all through the years. They had a short film screened on the history of the facility and tea making in Munnar in general. There is a tea making tour showcasing the steps involved. Tea can be purchased and there are a variety of flavours which may not make everybody’s cup. (We purchased White and Rose flavours). Ample parking facility available.

Tea Museum.

Machinary
Mattupetty dam and Echo Point:
Rose Garden was in our agenda initially but we skipped to save time for Vattavada Village which will be the last location in today’s programme. On the way, finished lunch at Hotel East End (recommended), visited Mattupetty Dam and Echo Point. Munnar is located near the confluence of the mountain streams of Muthirappuzha River, Chanduvarai River and Kundale River. (Munnar literally means moonu (three), aaru(river) in Tamil and Malayalam). Mattupetty dam is situated on Muthirappuzha. Not much rush. Echo point is near the back waters of this dam surrounded by hills. One is supposed to hear your own echo but we could not hear much.

Mattupetty dam

Dam Outflow

Echo Point
Vattavada Village:
Now we were on the way to Vattavada village. This village is situated on Kerala -TN for which we need to cross to TN and back to Kerala. On the way need to cross Pampadum Shola National Park. It was really a jungle with dense forest. Finally reached the village which was a breath-taking site. (My mobile camera could not do the justification so I am posting from net). Visited a strawberry form and purchased 3 bottles of jam. (They are making wine also). On the return journey saw some Indian Bisons. The small TN portion road takes the title as the worst road for the entire trip but drivable (wonder whether the administration knows this portion belongs to which state). On the way back purchased some Chocolates (though they were made in Aluva) and other sweets in Echo Point. Back to the Hotel at around 7.30 PM, had dinner similar to yesterday and retired to sleep.

On the way to Vattavada

Teagardens

Check post

Jungle road

Vattavada( from Internet)

Strawberry forms

Bison
Day 3(24.12.2022) Munnar to Thekkady:
Time had come checkout and move towards Thekkady. Finished breakfast and by 8.30 AM were on the way . As explained before, we could not get the online Lake Cruise ticket (not interested in standing in que) and decided to see some locations before reaching Thekkady. (Original itinerary talks about only the lake cruise).
Kalvari Mount view Point and Idukki dam:
Original route from Munnar to Thekkady goes via Anakkara and to reach Mount view went through different route through lots of ghats sections with double to single lane roads. Except for the last bits, roads were more less ok. Kalvari Mount point gives a good view of Idukki dam. This dam was constructed on Periyar river along with two other dams at Cheruthoni and Kulamavu . Together, the three dams and Two saddle dams, have created an artificial lake that is 60 km2 in area. The stored water is used to produce electricity at the Moolamattom Power house, which is located inside nearby rocky caves. Idukki Arch dam doesn't have any shutters to be opened so it has to rely on the Cheruthoni dam to maintain the reservoir water level. The view from the top was really stunning. (Funny thing is they charged for car parking inside whereas free parking available outside the gate). We spent some time there and moved on to the dam itself. When we reached the arch dam gate only to find out that was the exist gate and we could only enter through entry gate (for which need to take an auto from exit gate as there no car parking available in entry gate). So, we viewed the dam arch from the exit gate and proceeded towards Thekkady.

Kalvari View

Idukki dam
Jeep Safari:
Reached Thekkady and tried to take lunch at Periyar Tiger Café (from GMaps Reviews) but found the place was over crowed. Then tried Kripa Restaurant and found to be ok. There, we came to know that jeep safari is available for Rs 2500/- (for full jeep irrespective of persons and they carry even 10 people also) and they will show some points in Periyar Tiger Reserve where there are chances to see Elephants and other animals. (Jeep driver said that they saw Elephants in morning trip and Bisons in next trip). But after seeing the first location we started to regret this trip. These locations called Sathram viewpoints (Sathram is resting place for Sabarimala Pilgrims who walk through this route) which are situated just outside the fenced perimeters of the Reserve Forest. For some 20 kms the road was ok (Kottayam Road) but once it turned towards the reserve, roads became dirt tracks and off-road tracks. All the vehicles going through this route were Mahindra Jeeps (some old Thars). These points have openings near the perimeters and sometimes animals may be moving nearer. But we decided to return back after the 3rd point as no animals visible other than 2 legged including us.

Satram view point 1

Off track 1

Off track 2
Thekkady entertainment:
We returned to the entry point of the Tiger reserve at 6 PM where some other forms of entertainments were available. Elephant ride, Kathakali Show, Kalari Show etc., We could not do much here as the timing was not suitable for as our hotel (Spice Grove) is in Anakkara which is 10 Km from Thekkady. Only watched some people taking elephant ride. So moved on to Spice Grove and checked in at around 7.30 PM. Since that was Christmas eve, their restaurant was not open but buffet dinner was available for Rs 1000-/- person. As usual we felt that was too much and took dinner at Shan restaurant, just few meters from our hotel. Food was ok and reasonable pricewise also. Returned back and had a good night sleep. Extra bed (full cot) had been arranged immediately.
( Continued in next post)…….

[kvsneela]

….Continued
Day 4(25.12.2022) Thekkady to Kumarakon Houseboat:
Woke up with the feeling we would be leaving the ghats behind to reach normal civilisation. As usual finished the buffet breakfast and were on the road to Kumarakom by 9 AM. Already the Houseboat cook contacted our driver for menu (and also veg or NV etc.,) as unlike hotels, complete food would be provided in the boat itself. We reached the boat around 1 PM which was parked in a backwater channel of the Venbanad lake (or is it Menachal River).




House boat views

We were welcomed with coconut water.
House boat looked very nice and neat. Unlike hotels, boat contained 2 bed rooms so we were not needed to share the room among 3 of us. As soon as we reached, they started the boat and Lunch was ready within 30 minutes. We had veg meals and son had some fish fry. (They normally stop the boat during meals).

Lunch
Boat moved towards the lake and soon we were in open water. After travelling in ghat roads for 3 days, that was very much relaxing as we had nothing to do but only watch the views and birds. Boat went around the lake in a circle and returned to the starting point and parked for the night. We were enquired about additional requirement like Ayurvedic Massage or small /speed boat ride among backwaters for additional charge. We discussed ourselves for some time and finally decided against any of them.


Sunset
As per the rules, AC would be available from 9 PM to 6AM but was switched on from 7 PM to 7 AM. I was wondering how they could provide power for air-conditioners but soon found out when we ventured out to go to a temple nearby (as usual wife’s idea). Each parking slot has EB board with meter and 3 or 4 points to take power out. Probably boats belonging to same ownership would park together and use the same meter. At around 6.30 went to the temple called Saktheeswaram temple (Lord Murugan) which had Nadhaswaram and Thavil being played with typical TN atmosphere. We had dinner at around 8 PM (as usual Veg for us and Prawns and Chicken for son; For Prawns we had to give extra amount Rs 1500/- per kg). Then retired and had a good sleep. (Fortunately, with a vision, we had already taken Odomos with us to avoid mosquito problems as they cause havoc in these areas).

Shaktheeswaram temple

Day 5(26.12.2022) Houseboat to Kumarakon resort-Kochi local:
The boat (named Kovilakom) started moving at around 8 AM. On the way we finished out breakfast of Appam and kadalacurry (omelette for son).

Sunrise

Lake

Breakfast
This time the cruise was for a small round and returned at 9AM. By the time our driver was waiting for us (He had gone to his home in Aluva previous day as he had nothing to do after dropping us in the Houseboat). When we enquired about site seeing at Kumarakom, we found nothing interesting. But already the plan for next day (last day) was shaping up. Since our flight was at 7.15 PM and we needed to be at airport around 5 PM. Wife already planned to visit Chottanikara Bhagvathy Temple (which in the outskirts of Kochi). It was actually my idea as we cannot come back from Pondy only for this visit again (I had visited (forcefully by bosses) during our official visits to Kochi Branch of our office). Driver had already tempted about Athirapally waterfalls which is 40 kms away from airport. So, he gave a suggestion that if we were could start at 6 AM from Kumarakom resort (skipping complimentary breakfast) we could finish both temple and waterfalls by 4 PM. It was accepted by everybody (surprisingly son accepted to get ready by 6 AM) and so driver decided to take us inside Kochi on that day (which was for last day as per original itinerary) as there was no point in checking in Backwater Brook at Kumarakom and doing nothing.
So, from the house boat we went to Kochi Fort area by crossing Thaneermukom Bund (water barrier across the lake) which itself was a sight. we were expecting something like a castle in Kochi Fort but it was a settlement area initially by Portuguese and then Dutch before British captured it. It had some old European type of houses (not thrilling for a Pondy resident as we have French architecture in white town here) and there was a beach also. Then visited Mattancherry Palace (not to compare with Mysore palace) turned into museum which contains history of Kochi with some used items. (Only recent history). Heard that the Hill Palace Museum is bigger but was closed on Mondays. Finished lunch at “The Salt” by the riverside and the food was ok.
Can we come out of Kerala without the Plantain chips (coconut oil fried). Initially we had planned to purchase near airport but driver took us to the wholesale shop near M.G. Road to finish the purchase that day itself. Purchased some chips (as they were being fried fresh) and some other items. By 6 PM checked in Backwater Brook which is a resort on the side of a small branch of the lake. It had only 4 rooms with stunning views around. There was a cook and caretaker to arrange for food (it seems they arrange from outside) as per the menu. We ordered something (which I don’t remember exactly) and finished dinner by 8 PM and retired to sleep.

Kochi Fort area

Beach

Thaneerkom Bund

Backwater Brook resort( as it was dark during our stay , picture from Internet)

Day 6(27.12.2022) Chottanikara- Athirapally waterfalls – airport:
Our last day started at 6 AM as planned and we were on the way to Chottanikara temple. Reached the temple around 7 AM but it was closed that time and next opening was at 8.00 PM only. So, wife and son went to Keezhkavu temple and came back to join the main que at 7.45 PM. We finished the visit at 8.30 AM (needed to remove shirt but fortunately pants were allowed). Finished breakfast on the way to Athirapally falls which is about 70 km from the temple. Reached the falls but the roadside parking que went for 2 kms. Athirapally falls is on Chalakkudi river and before the falls there are small water cascades. We visited that first and wife and son went inside the river by crossing some pools of water (the main river was fenced). While crossing son slipped and got wet so that he decided take full dip in one of the small falls in the current. There is one more path going to the main falls. We spent some time there and decided to return as we needed to catch the flight. On the main road there was a good view of the falls in full flow. Took lunch at KFC near airport and got dropped by 5 Pm at the airport.

Chottanikara temple

On the way to Athirapally

Athirapally cascades

Main falls.

Akasha Airlines:
Our checking in was smooth and we were inside by 5.30 PM. Allowed to alight the plane by 6.45 Pm and the take-off was on scheduled time of 7.15 PM. It was Boeing 737 MAX 8 and since we already had the seat numbers selected everything went smoothly. For me and wife, though not frequent air travellers (3 years ago for me and wife unable to remember), did not feel anything uncomfortable during take-off or landing, but son felt pain in ears (he travels more by various airlines all over the world) may be due to pressure variations. (I had some sensation in nose for a change). Landing was before time (son’s pain increased more during landing). Returned to Pondy next day.

Summary points:
1. Due to peak season some of the rates were very high (Normal house boat which rents about 8000/- was 25000/- in these times); So, the total amount came about 75000/- (including breakfast at all hotels and complete food in House boat) which could be reduced to half or less in off seasons. Even complimentary dinner could be bargained for.
2. Making or breaking these types of tours basically depends of the driver and our relationship with him. Our driver (young and had 6 months baby) was very much cooperative and helpful in suggesting new places (which were not mentioned in the original itinerary) like Kalvari mount point, Idukki dam, Athirapally falls, Vattavada village etc., In turn we fed him well whenever we had food outside and gifted him with Chocolates and chips etc., (which probably everybody do in such tours). Finally there was some confusion regarding up to how many Kms the agent will bear and how much we needed to pay additionally (as the total distance was 834 which exceeded 600 km for 6 days), Driver convinced the travels for 700km limit and we paid for excess 134 km (2000/- with another 2000/- as tips). The car, Dzire DDiS (2017), did its duty flawlessly.
3. Iris Holidays also did a good coordination job, booked the hotels and house boat without any confusions. Only confusion was that we asked for House boat at Alleppey so that the cruising would be in the channels and backwaters. But their booking mentioned the Houseboat at Kumarakom (which means the cruising would be on the lake) but we went ahead with the booking confirmation as other agents could not confirm any house boat booking and we do not regret the final outcome of cruising the lake in open water. Because of this the resort booking at Kumarakom became unnecessary and we could have booked in Kochi itself as for the last 2 days moving around Kochi only as it was unnecessary to come back to Kumarakom only to sleep. But both House boat and resort stay is recommended for honeymoon couples.
4. Out of the total 834 km of road travel, hardly 10 kms of road had some problems and rest were super good to self-drive also. There was not much hairpin bends (like other ghat roads of Dhimbam or Ooty or Kodaikkanal). Only near the Kalvari mount points the roads were little bit steep but there also 800s, Altos, Eons were effortlessly gliding through.
5. Whatever the view the hills roads provide, after 2/3 days of ghat road driving, one would be eager to reach plains. (But in Kerala there is no such thing as real flat roads as much since the land is between Western Ghats and Arabian sea).50 km in ghats take many hours.
6. In spite of our impression that Kerala as non-Veg heaven, we found there are many veg hotels like Arya Bhawan, Saravana Bhavan (not “The Saravana Bhavan”). But because of our son’s food habits we could not visit any of these places (which our driver also liked I think), But because one would be continuously visiting places, it better to find a suitable restaurant in advance.
7. Being tourist locations, many of us might get carried away seeing the atmosphere to buy many items without realising the rates/value and regret latter.
8. It is better to book online tickets where ever possible like, Periyar Lake Cruise (Thekkady), Eravikulam National Park (Munnar etc., which will save time.
9. Food provided by all the hotels and resorts were good but the best one was at the house boat. It was so homely not too spicy not too bland.
10. Thinking that it was winter peak, we packed sweaters but never used during the whole tour. (Son managed only in tea shirt and bermuda). Except for late nights at Munnar and Thekkady the climate was manageable with normal cloths. Kumarakom was slightly humid even in winter (but ok) and could not imagine summer humidity. Better to take some protection for mosquitos.
So until next time …..
Happy and prosperous 2023