[SS-Traveller]

I cannot remember when we took a spontaneous holiday that has no fixed plan for the destination or the number of days. We did not even firm up on the destination till the day before departure. This was the end of January, off-season period for travel, and we finally leave home a little before 4:30 am on Sunday, the 29th day of January 2023.





The destination is Amritsar, and we decide to explore the Trans-Haryana Expressway (NH152D) via Rohtak to Ambala, avoiding the messy roadwork in progress around Sonepat.



The drive is uneventful and relaxed, keeping within posted speed limits all the way. We encounter some fog at daybreak, forcing us to slow down.


Once the tolled trans-Haryana expressway ends (IIRC some 50 km short of Ambala), we stop at a dhaba for some tea.




A conversation with the dhaba owner over tea produces some interesting insights and nuggets of information.

• Truck drivers prefer to stop at this dhaba than at the eateries on the tolled expressway, because parking is easier here, and food is cheaper
• I was charged Rs.15 per tea, while truck drivers are charged Rs.10 (he wanted Rs.20, but brought down the price to Rs.15)
• If a vehicle needs repair here, he can call a mechanic over to the dhaba; however, no mechanic is willing to go to the tolled section of the expressway to repair a vehicle
• His dhaba is 3 years old, and business is picking up after Covid-19
• Truck drivers like the fact that he has sleeping arrangements in the dhaba, which no eatery offers on the expressway
• Families in cars do not like to share space with truck drivers, so he had to set up an air-conditioned dining hall to attract travellers in LMVs

Truck drivers' rest area


As the morning progresses, the traffic on the highway north of Ambala starts to build up. This Haryana Roadways bus is desperate to overtake everyone on the road, and I thought the words written at the back are either wishful thinking about himself, or ironic advice that he needs to remember about other road users. For those who do not read Hindi, it says, I would have flown if I had wings!




The relaxed driving was returning excellent FE for me...


Late morning, nearing Amritsar, we find numerous vendors selling orange (or was it kinnow?) juice along the highway, and we stop for some. It is delicious and refreshing, very economical at Rs.50 for a big glass and a half, and quite filling (we had skipped breakfast in our plans to gorge at Amritsar!)

[SS-Traveller]

The hotel that we check into in Amritsar, seemed really nice on the Internet. The rooms are well-appointed, the tariffs are attractive, the decor seems nice, the location is a reasonable 500 metres from the Jallianwala Bagh, and they have reserved on-street parking in front of the hotel covered by CCTV. The hotel also has a dine-in facility, though we are not planning to eat there, determined as we are to explore the gastronomic attractions of the city.

https://www.hoteleliteamritsar.com/

The lobby and rooms are quite nice, and as per the pictures on the Internet.


















Did not order anything from here!


The uncomfortable and disorienting bit is the complete lack of windows in any of the rooms in that property, and it is pitch dark inside even in the middle of the day when there is a power outage (which happened a few times during our stay there), until the generator kicks in a minute or two later.

The facade of the building is rather unimpressive and somewhat derelict except the narrow entryway, but all in all, it was a comfortable stay for 2 nights for us, and their service staff (Hrithik and Abhishek) were very cooperative and polite. The car is parked safely, too, and we do not have much cause for complaint.







Not far away, though, we find this signage with interesting spelling!

[SS-Traveller]

After a quick round of freshening up, we hop into a 3-wheeler and head off for a 5-minute trip to the Jallianwala Bagh, curious to see what are the new modifications and renovations done to the site since our last visit there (Hawk-On-Fours® (H-4®) Roadtrip - Amritsar & Pathankot).



The whole area around the Golden Temple and Jallianwala Bagh has been revamped, with a very clean and aesthetic appearance. All the shops and establishments have been done up in matching red sandstone, somewhat reminding me of the markets of Jaipur around the Hawa Mahal.









The entrance seems rather striking with the larger-than-life sculptures of people, but a look back at those half-faces and half-bodies emerging out of the walls gave me a very eerie feeling.



















With a few words of prayer and remembrance, we exit the Bagh. It being a Sunday afternoon, the area is very crowded, and we are very hungry. Plenty of food options all around, including this pure vegetarian McDonald's, but we want something more authentic...









...and so it is a toss-up between the two most famous eateries in that area!












Makki di roti and sarson da saag, Amritsari kulche and lassi are so satisfying for a late lunch!

[SS-Traveller]

Soon after the late lunch, we wade into the rather crowded Katra Jaimal Singh wholesale market for a bout of shopping!



















A bout of rain in the late afternoon makes us hop into another 3-wheeler and head back to the hotel.





3-wheeler rides anywhere are pretty hair-raising, and more so in Amritsar, and here's a short video compiled from the couple of rides we took.

https://youtu.be/-DcAsTGekmc

The rain and the tiredness of the journey make us decide not to venture out to eat at one of Amritsar's many fine restaurants. A quick inquiry with Hrithik at the reception reveals that there's a really nice shop within a short walk from the hotel, where fish and chicken are available. However, we are advised to carry our food back with us and not dine in there, since it is a popular 'watering hole' for the locals. We pick up half a kilo of Amritsari fried fish, some tandoori chicken and chicken malai tikka and carry them back to our room - they are all so good, we finish them off without remembering to take photos!






Here's an Ambassador's nose at a restaurant across the road!

[SS-Traveller]

The next morning, the 30th day of January 2023, it is raining heavily. The chilly weather notwithstanding, we wrap ourselves up and set off to visit the Durgiana Temple. Unsure of parking arrangements at the temple, we choose to hire a 3-wheeler for the trip, but it turned out that the temple had ample empty space for parking on that day.

Though said to have been built in 1921, it is 'confirmed by record in Amritsar District Gazetteer of 1893, which talks about Durgiana Sarovar and "Devi dwara" surrounding it', that the tank and temple existed well before that. With a design and architecture similar to the Golden Temple, the resident deities of the main temple in the centre of the tank are Lakshmi-Narayan; other temples on the periphery of the tank are those of Hanumanji, Sheetla Mata, the Sat Narayan Mandir, the Ved Katha Bhawan and the Langar Bhawan where free meals are served to devotees every day.








Dogs enjoy a morning meal of curds (dahi) and milk





The main entrance archway. Extremely slippery in the rain



Counter for footwear











Temple time schedule

















The silver plated doors of the main temple give this temple the name of Silver Temple as well. The details reveal that the present silver work is of recent origin (2019)







A shrine to Jwala-ji



Way to the Hanuman Mandir and Sheetla Mata Mandir



The reputedly 700-year-old Sheetla Mata Mandir





The Hanuman Mandir



Dharamshala for devotees to reside in



Archways for the new entry path. To the right of this picture is the car park

[SS-Traveller]

Our next stop - the Golden Temple. We decided not to visit here the previous day due to the humongous crowd of Sunday visitors, and it is reasonably empty today.

But first, a cup of hot coffee to fight the chilly weather



Footwear to the counter, and a picture of token taken as instructed



The much-photographed Golden Temple does not need many contributions from an amateur photographer with a mobile phone camera, but the overcast sky above the Golden Temple is striking



We enter, and we pray for brighter days ahead

[Eddy]

It's your travelogue. Post at least one pic of yourself

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

We entered, and we prayed for brighter days ahead

And our prayers...

Originally Posted by Eddy

It's your travelogue. Post at least one pic of yourself

...and yours, are answered!

The sky clears, the clouds disappear, and there is bright sunshine within the next hour, the time it takes for us to partake of the delicious langar and depart from the Temple.






For reference, the two pictures below were taken the previous day, to show how overcast the sky was!





Even the pigeons are happy with the sunshine!


Time for some more sightseeing, snacking (despite the filling langar) and shopping!








These were



No way that we'd go to a pure veg McDonald's!









And this time, we walk all the way back to the hotel in the beautiful weather!

[SS-Traveller]

Come evening, after a tranquil siesta, we decide to venture out for - what else? - food!

Makhan Fish and Chicken Corner came highly recommended by a friend as well as the Internet. It turns out to be a swanky restaurant, a part of the Makhan Residency Hotel, and we so looked forward to a grand (pure non-veg!) dinner here.








The menu is tempting, and we order.






We place a request that we want all the items together, not one at a time.


10 minutes later, we receive one plate of 'Fish Fried Sangara'




That was quick service, and delicious, and we polish it off promptly.


Another 15 minutes later, the 'Fish Tandoori Sohal' arrives.


Finish it off too - our appetites are whetted, but for the next half an hour and more, there is no sign of the rest of the order. Couldn't catch the eye of the waiter, and finally after prolonged waiting, quite disgusted with the service quality, we decide to end our dinner here and walk out.


Here's the bill, which shows what we had ordered.


Strangely and very surprisingly, this very large and luxurious establishment only accepts cash payments. No credit cards, no UPI, no form of electronic payment at all!

There is not a word of apology, not even from the elderly turbaned gentleman at the cash counter (whom I presume to be the owner by his demeanour). All in all, an entirely unsatisfactory experience at an eatery we expected much, much more out of!

Still hungry, we walk across the road to another restaurant called Charming Chicken, not so ostentatious, but with excellent food, quick service, and a very amiable owner. They also accept UPI payment!








Chicken Platter (L to R: crispy fried chicken, chicken malai tikka, chicken tandoori)



Amritsari Fried Fish (boneless)


Tomorrow, we need to find a good place for breakfast, before leaving for Dalhousie.

[SS-Traveller]

The recommended breakfast place is Kanha Sweets at Lawrence Road. After checking out from the hotel, we head there, not for the usual sweets they sell, but for their chhole-poori and gur ka halwa, washed down with some delectable lassi.






The dining hall is already quite crowded, as is the road outside. We are lucky to find a parking spot without much effort.



The pooris are huge, chhole is tasty, but the surprise element is the potato curry, which is tangy and a little sweet, unlike what we are expecting.





The much-praised gur ka halwa is definitely an acquired taste, and we would probably skip it the next time



How can one miss out on buying aam papad and Amritsari wadiyan?





And then, after being trapped in a mammoth traffic jam inside the city for 45 minutes, we are finally on our way to the mountains

[SS-Traveller]

31st January 2023: Our destination for today is Himachal Tourism's Hotel Manimahesh at Dalhousie.



Debating about where to stay in this region, we narrowed down our choice to this hotel instead of the ones at Chamba, Khajjiar or Dharamsala, because

• we've never been to any of these places except Dharamsala (Hawk-On-Fours® (H-4®) Roadtrip: McLEODGANJ)
• Dalhousie provides the grandest view of the Manimahesh mountain range
• all the rooms at the Hotel Manimahesh have a view of the mountain peaks
• after sundown, Dalhousie has a semblance of life in the evening, while Khajjiar does not
• HPTDC was offering a huge 40% off-season discount on their regular rates

A long conversation with BHPian haisaikat, who had travelled to this region very recently, helped us plan this part of the trip at the last minute.







As we pull off the road at this place to enjoy the view, I happen to film this death-defying overtake manoeuvre!

https://youtube.com/watch?v=m9YBZqxiT4c

Another beautiful spot to stop and enjoy the view and the weather







Finally, we arrive at the Hotel Manimahesh.



We wanted a balcony with our room, and some of the regular rooms do have that - but the rooms are located 2 floors below the entrance, and the view of the Pir Panjal range is partially blocked by trees and the boundary wall. So we upgrade ourselves to the super deluxe rooms, and are allotted #310. The Pir Panjal suite next door is certainly bigger, but the view is almost the same, and we are a little apprehensive that the heater provided would not be enough.






Step out of the room, and the car park is right in front



And here's the mesmerizing view from the balcony!







The view at night from that balcony, looking out over the town of Banikhet below



Entrance of the hotel




Our stay at the Hotel Manimahesh, Dalhousie is extremely comfortable, so much so that we extend our stay from 2 nights to 3, at the spur of the moment on the second day. The view from the room, the absolute peace and quiet of the surroundings, the splendid sunny but chilly weather, the food, and the efforts of the manager Mr. Chauhan and his staff, really made for a memorable holiday.


A glorious sunset...



...an early dinner from room service...







...then curling up in bed with a book, in front of the room heater, made for a charming experience!

[SS-Traveller]

1st February 2023:
Early to bed and (not very) early to rise,
Lets one see beautiful mountains and skies!

Terrible rhyme that, I agree.

But when you get out of bed to be greeted with this view, there is no wrong side of the bed to get up on. Nor any bad poetry!







But it IS rather cold out there, and I am loving it!


We decide to take a day trip to Khajjiar today. The sun is out, the weather prediction for the day looks great, but cloud and rain are predicted for the next day. Khajjiar isn't too far, just 22 km away by this route: https://goo.gl/maps/bTN9BBpVNQMLKYZK9. The only problem is, this route is snowed out and closed to vehicular traffic.



So we are forced to take the long way around, via Chamba. All of 69 km!



Soon after crossing Banikhet, this view from the road greets us.





On the way, there's the Chamera Lake. Not keen on boating or other forms of watersports, we decide not to take the way down to the water, and carry on along the main road.


The view of the lake, with snow peaks in the backdrop, from the road is mesmerizing.









More spellbinding views from the road



The last 7 km of road to Khajjiar after Chamba, is steep and narrow, but extremely scenic



Nothing that would be daunting for an Alto, or a sedan with low ground clearance, though!



Snow on the side of the road, just a couple of kilometres before reaching Khajjiar







Toll collection here for entry to Khajjiar (Rs.100)



And then, we arrive at the snow-covered Khajjiar meadow!

https://youtu.be/VH85A2wtkFg

[SS-Traveller]

We park the car some distance up the road past the meadow, away from the touts and horses, trinket sellers and Zorb ball ride and inflated tube ride offerers, the muddy gum boot and smelly fancy clothing rental chaps, the photographers, and the horse dung and the muddy patches and the few young and loud tourists having a good time amongst themselves...



...and walk back to the main gate of the meadow. We decide not to take a walk in the meadow itself, since it is slushy, muddy, wet and littered with horse dung, despite the pretty sight from afar.




The rather large gate, and the cheesy signage over it, saying Welcome to Mini Switzerland, take away something from the natural beauty, open view and individuality of the place. Why can't Khajjiar just be Khajjiar?



Someone abandoned this motorcycle buried under the snow, alongside the gate. Wonder why...



We find ourselves a couple of seats at a roadside food shack, and settle in for a spot of lunch.







Left Dalhousie after our morning tea and biscuits, and the scenery had kept hunger at bay till now. Time to start with the staple of the mountains, i.e. bread-and-eggs and spicy Maggi (not that everyone would like mountain Maggi - I do, but Mrs. SST doesn't!)





At the next shack, they start cooking up something that smells really tempting! Turns out that it's tawa chicken!



Well, the bread & eggs and Maggi have already quelled our hunger pangs, but perpetual foodies that we are, let's have a round of tawa chicken as well!



This playful puppy refuses to eat the eggs, Maggi or chicken, happily playing in the sunshine.



Despite the bright sunshine, the temperature remains at 2°C in the middle of the afternoon, according to the ambient temperature readout on the car dashboard.



On the drive back, we spot this fairyland scene...



...and then get stuck in a traffic jam for half an hour, just because - well - heavy machinery used for road widening had broken down. Ironic!

[SS-Traveller]

The 2nd day of February 2023 was our unplanned extension of holiday. While we had planned to return home on this day, the do-nothing mood takes over, and we stay back at Dalhousie for one more day. The hotel does not have many guests, and we retain our room.

The sky is overcast, the weather is cold, and the coffee is hot. We carry our own electric travel kettle and a selection of coffee, teas and biscuits during our road trips, for these special morning moments. And a book. Not often do I get to read in peace for an hour or two. Today is special, and the book is special too. Signed and gifted to us by the author herself just a few days ago, it is a captivating read about the shenanigans of the past, not the boring stuff of history books.








Mrs. SST is a fan of Rabindranath Tagore, and he had stayed at Bakrota as a 12-year-old. Bakrota, however, was inaccessible at this time of the year, the road being snowed out.


It has been recorded somewhere that Maharshi Debendranath Tagore and his son arrived at Dalhousie and initially took up residence for a few days (before moving to Bakrota) at the building which now houses Himachal Tourism's other hotel at Dalhousie, the Geetanjali - which is also why the hotel is named so. Later in the morning, as the clouds clear and the sun comes out, we decide to venture out to visit this hotel.


The narrow road with sharp curves leading down to the hotel is a little tricky to negotiate in a large car...









...but there is sufficient space to park a few cars in front of the hotel. The road going downhill is a dead end.





The manager, Mr. Sharma, is clueless about whether Tagore did stay at this building or not, but he is a very cordial man and offered to show us around the building. He did mention that the building is over a century old, and at the last renovation of the building, steel girders with the year 1921 stamped on them were removed and replaced.






Tagore is said to have resided in the very large room at the far end of the building, on the upper floor, with the grandest view of the snow covered Pir Panjal range. This is now the 4-bedded family suite (one of 3 such rooms available, but the others do not have this view of the mountains!)

I could sit at this table for hours, soaking in the view!



The bedroom is enormous, with a very high ceiling, typical of such colonial buildings.



The fireplace is now decorative, not having functioned for decades. The solitary room heater provided is inadequate to warm the room in winter, but this room would be perfect in the summer!


To the right of the fireplace, the space has been walled off, where there used to be a kitchen.

The anteroom, where the dining table is, also has beds for two



Even the washroom is huge, almost the size of a regular room!


Some day, I would love to return and stay here. For now, au revoir.

[SS-Traveller]

From the Hotel Geetanjali, Gandhi Chowk is a short distance away, and we head there. Lots of jobless taxiwallahs and cops enjoying the sunshine, while directing us to the car park down the road on the left.



During peak season, parking is certainly an issue in this area, but we find the double-storeyed car park quite empty.



Expensive parking for an hour or two, but that's better than being harassed by the cops.





Brunch time first, in a little shack with a view of the snow peaks.





The eatery we'd been strongly recommended to visit, Kwality Restaurant, is closed and under renovation.



The Raizada Hans Raj Library - curious, I later looked up who Raizada Hans Raj was.



St. John's Church is closed as well, the gate chained shut. The cops on duty there said they only open on Sundays. Much as I love exploring old churches, this isn't our day to do so.







The Indo Tibetan Market is deserted, with very few shops open...



...even as Gandhiji surveys the empty chowk named after him, devoid of tourists.


To the left of the statue stands the Hotel Dalhousie and the Café Dalhousie with their old world charm. We'll visit the café after a stroll down the Dalhousie Mall...





The Mall, situated in the lane alongside the Hotel Dalhousie, wears a deserted look. Shopkeepers are busy playing cards and killing time.











A little confused by these things - dustbins? Barbecue stands? Until the lady went and sat there, I didn't realize these are benches!!