[spaceunicorn]

I have been a silent follower of Team-BHP for several years (since 2008, to be precise). Recently thought I should take a membership and start contributing to this wonderful forum.

For my latest adventure, I set out to explore the breathtaking temple architecture of southern India. Having visited numerous architectural wonders in the region in the past, I decided to focus on two particular places this year: the Gangaikonda Cholapuram and Chidambaram temples. These stunning structures, dating back around 1300 years, have captured my fascination, with the latter even believed to have existed before that.

My friend Hari and I, who often embark on such adventures together, decided to plan a weekend getaway during the Mahanavami celebrations. Our preparations went as follows:

1. Vehicle: My trusted companion, the "White Panther" XUV500 2018, has recently undergone a service, leaving me with little to inspect. However, I made sure to check the oil, tyre pressure, and wiper fluid levels, all of which were in excellent condition

Started the ODO at 42674.



2. Route: The journey from Trivandrum offered two options - one that traversed through the scenic western ghats via Araynkav and crossed over to Tamil Nadu, leading to destinations such as Tenkasi and Madurai, before connecting to the superhighway. The second option was to take NH 66, pass through Kaliyikkavilai (the Kerala-Tamil Nadu border), and eventually reach Nagercoil to enter the Srinagar - Kanyakumari Highway. Despite the shorter distance of the first route, the estimated travel time was longer, possibly due to the challenging road conditions caused by recent heavy rains. As a result, we chose to take the second route, which covered a longer distance but promised a shorter travel time.
Route 1 - 551kms/ 11 hrs 44 mins
Route 2 - 599kms/ 10 hrs 37 mins



Travel Planning: We had a tight schedule for our travel plan. Our goal was to start at 5 AM sharp and reach Gangaikonda Cholapuram by 3:30 PM, allowing us 1 hour to explore the place before heading to Chidambaram at 6:30 PM. Although we did not book any hotels in advance, we made sure to pack two pillows in the car just in case we struggled to find a room (a common situation for our trips, but I always recommend booking in advance, especially when traveling with family).

Fuel Check: As we started our journey, we noticed that the fuel indicator was blinking, indicating that the Panther, was running on reserve. We filled up 10.x litres of diesel for Rs. 1000, just to take advantage of the cheaper diesel prices in Tamil Nadu. Since we are not speedy drivers, we set the cruise control at 100kph and enjoyed a leisurely drive on the highway. For those familiar with this express highway, 100kph is considered the average speed. Our first stop was at Hotel Gaurishanker in Nagercoil for breakfast. This has always been our go-to spot for breakfast or dinner whenever we pass through Nagercoil. The food quality is great, there is ample parking space, and the restrooms are clean. After enjoying a breakfast of "Pongal" and "Medhuvada," we were back on the road in just 30 minutes.

Beautiful sunrise near to the hotel.



We started from there around 7:30am and we arrived at the first toll plaza shortly after. Our toll expenses added up to approximately Rs 950 by the time we reached Chidambaram. Despite the cost, we were pleasantly surprised by the well-maintained roads (mostly 6 lane). At 12:45 PM, we stopped at Arun Cafe, just outside of Trichy, for a much-needed lunch. Our early start may have contributed to our ravenous appetites.

Our next destination was Gangaikonda Cholapuram, known for its impressive temple that resembles the famous Brihideswara temple. We were anticipating catching a glimpse of the towering Gopuram from afar, but were pleasantly surprised when our GPS indicated that we were only 4 kilometers away. And there it was, the magnificent Arulmigu Peruvudaiyar Temple, Gangaikonda Cholapuram.



In between we filled Diesel (full tank) 66 litres at Rs 94.99 per litre. This was like Rs 3.50 per litre less than Kerala.

From the Highway:


The roads leading to this destination have been impressively expanded to cater to the growing influx of tourists. The effort put into improving the road and overall infrastructure is truly remarkable. Here is a glimpse of the scenic route leading to this charming spot.



We had ample parking spaces and they charged 50Rs for the parking (not sure why roadside parking needs to be charged). After removing our shoes as per the temple's guidelines, we entered the complex and were in awe of its architectural beauty. The ASI's effort in keeping the area spotless was commendable, bringing back memories of our European travels where cleanliness is unrivaled. A big thanks to the maintenance team for their dedication."

Entrance to the temple complex:


The huge Nandi and the Flag post before the main temple complex:


The Temple view:


The Upadevada temples:




The temple complex from right side:


Inside the Temple complex:


Some unfinished/ destroyed idols:


Toilet Facility outside the temple complex:


Next, we bid farewell to Gangaikonda Cholapuram as we continued our journey.

Historical tale: During the reign of the Chola King Rajendra 1, his empire extended all the way to the Himalayas. A grand feat to commemorate this power, the King ordered rulers of neighboring kingdoms to bring water from the Ganges River annually to fill a well at this location. This led to the shift of the capital from Tanjore to this new city, which is now known as Gangikonda Cholapuram. However, this prosperous city met its downfall in the 13th or 14th century when the Pandyas overthrew the Cholas and destroyed the city.

Our journey began at 4:45 PM and after a two-hour drive, we arrived at Chidambaram. We were fortunate to secure a double bedroom at Hotel Akshaya, with a nightly rate of approximately Rs 2,000. The hotel also had the renowned Adayar Ananda Bhavan restaurant on the ground floor, providing us with delicious and satisfying meals. We savored every bite of the scrumptious food!

With the temple gates remaining open till 10PM, we couldn't resist the opportunity of squeezing in a quick visit. And boy, were we glad we did! While the temple was a sight to behold during the day, with its intricate architecture and vibrant colors, experiencing it at night brought a whole new level of enchantment.

The temple, dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva, had four imposing Gopurams or ornate gateways, each facing a different direction - East, West, North and South. As we stepped through one of these magnificent structures, we were greeted by the outer limits of the temple complex, with its sprawling grounds and impressive layout.

But it was only upon entering the main temple complex that we truly felt transported to another world. The grandeur of the architecture, illuminated by the soft glow of the night lights, left us mesmerized. Each corner of the complex seemed to hold a new surprise, with intricate carvings and sculptures adorning every surface. This was another marvel, but with a strict no-photography policy.

After taking in the outer beauty, we made our way to the inner sanctum where the deity resided. As someone who appreciates the beauty of ancient architecture, I found myself completely immersed in the serene atmosphere of the temple.

Overall, our decision to visit the temple at night proved to be a wise one, as we were able to witness a whole new dimension of its beauty. And with the convenience of extended opening hours, we were able to fully immerse ourselves in the magic of this place. A truly unforgettable experience.

We had a similar nice Darshan next day morning as well. I felt night lights made the temple extra beautiful!

The Main entrance Gopuram:


You can enter through other Gopuram's as well. However, our hotel was next to this one.

The Entrance walkway inside the Gopuram:


View after getting inside through the Gopuram:


One of the other Gopuram's:


The beautiful temple pond at night:


Same temple pond at day time:


Entrance to Temple (outside the Gopuram):


Few other architectural wonders inside the Temple complex:








After bidding farewell to the serene temple of Chidambaram, we set off from the town around 11AM. We were grateful to the hotel staff for accommodating us at short notice and we expressed our thanks before hitting the road.

Our travels took us to the Tata Trichy showroom, where we couldn't resist checking out the new Safari on display. Its sleek design and impressive features caught our eye, but unfortunately, we couldn't test drive it as there were no available vehicles for us to do so.

By 11.30 PM, we had reached Trivandrum, following the same route we took earlier in our journey. However, Google suggested an alternate route through the picturesque towns of Rameshwaram and Thoothukudi, although it would add an extra 2 hours to our journey. After much consideration, we decided to stick to our original plan and took the route through Madurai.

Odo was at 43898 with 3 blocks of fuel left. Total distance: 1224 Kms. Diesel consumption: 56 - 57 Litres. Average Mileage: 19 - 20 kmpl. (I have not yet done F2F mileage, will update it once done).

The journey may have been a familiar one, but the sights and experiences we encountered along the way made it just as exciting as the first time.

[spaceunicorn]

Here are some of the stunning architectural gems found within the temple complex:

Idol carved at the Gopuram:


Another one:







We were able to capture some stunning photographs of the main temple complex, showcasing the exquisite stonework that makes up the temple.





The mesmerising temple pond again:


Few images from the Gangai Konda Cholapuram as well:





White Panther resting on the way:



We visited Tata Motors Trichy to get a first glimpse at the new Tata Safari Facelift. Here are some pictures:











I had initially considered swapping out White Panther for a fresh Safari, but this journey has certainly prompted me to reconsider! Kudos to my trusty companion, the panther, for ensuring our safe return.

[Rudra Sen]

Mod note: Thread moved to Travelogues. Thanks for sharing.

[Kkumar]

Nice travelogue and great photos. Generally people visit temples on pilgrimage and at rarely they savour the history and architecture, good to see that you did both. All the best. Keep on munching miles.

[Mustang Sammy]

Nice write up. The temples of Tamil Nadu are spectacularly beautiful and your pictures made this one come alive.
Where has our ability to build high quality and long lasting constructions gone ?

[Simple_User]

Love the travelogue. Such a beautiful journey. Kudos. I have a similar 'white panther' and feel the seats are a bit too stiff for longer journeys.

[spaceunicorn]

Originally Posted by Kkumar

Nice travelogue and great photos. Generally people visit temples on pilgrimage and at rarely they savour the history and architecture, good to see that you did both. All the best. Keep on munching miles.

Thank you. Hari and I have different agendas when we travel. I enjoy exploring architectural marvels, while Hari goes on pilgrimage. This way, we get to experience both aspects of travel.

Originally Posted by Mustang Sammy

Nice write up. The temples of Tamil Nadu are spectacularly beautiful and your pictures made this one come alive.
Where has our ability to build high quality and long lasting constructions gone ?

Definitely. There are countless hidden gems waiting to be discovered and sadly, they often go unnoticed and lack recognition.

Originally Posted by Simple_User

Love the travelogue. Such a beautiful journey. Kudos. I have a similar 'white panther' and feel the seats are a bit too stiff for longer journeys.

Thank you for your comment. I agree, the seats in the White Panther can feel quite stiff, forcing us to take breaks every two to three hours for a sip of hot coffee. Luckily, I have a memory foam seat cushion that I purchased from Amazon, which does provide some relief. You can try that one - costs somewhere around Rs 1K.