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Old 6th November 2023, 17:18   #16
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Re: Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive

Wooden houses & Dard Tribes of Gurez and Tulail:




The wooden houses of Tulail valley:-
The wooden houses of Tulail portray the essence of Tulail, capturing the imagination of visitors who are drawn to their timeless beauty. Maximum of Tulail’s houses are meticulously crafted using timber and mud with tin sheet roofs crowning these architectural gems. It is observed that age-old techniques have been used to intricately join the wooden beams while a layer of mud on the interior walls provides natural insulation, keeping the interiors cool in summer and warm in winter. In winter with heavy snowfall, the sturdy wooden structures prove their worth, offering warmth and protection against the harsh elements. In this part of the valley, Tulail valley stands as the last bastion of tradition, embracing it's rich cultural heritage admist the changing world with rapid urbanization.

Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive-img_0441-copy.jpg


Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive-img_0444-copy.jpg


Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive-img_0479-copy.jpg


Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive-copy.jpg

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The Dard tribe of Gurez & Tulail:-
Gurez or Gurais, is part of Dardistan, an old civilisation. The name ‘Dardistan’ describes the area comprising the highest mountain ranges of Hindu Kush, Karakoram, western Himalaya and the Pamir mountains, and includes the Northern Areas, parts of Eastern Tibet, eastern Afghanistan and the Kashmir valley on both sides of the Pakistan-India border.
On the Indian side, the Shina people belongs to a Cognate Race of Indo-Aryans and speak an Indo-Aryan Dardic language, called Shina or Sheena. The ancient capital of the Dards, Dawar, is located in the Gurez Valley and is an important archaeological site. The Greek historian Herodotus, who lived in the 5th century BC, had mentioned about the Dard tribe in his works.

The onslaught of modernisation and the partition that sliced the Dard Shin homeland by a hostile LoC between India and Pakistan, this tribe squeezed to the remote and hidden Gurez valley, struggling to save their vanishing Shina language, their culture, traditions and a distinct identity. Perhaps it is this physical isolation that also protected and preserved the environmental and cultural treasures of Gurez Valley that once stood on the Silk route connecting Kashmir to Kashgar.

As the Gurez valley remains cut off for an extended period of 6 months due to the snow, dress of people are based on weather. Gents and ladies are seen wearing Zuba (Over-coat), Khoi Cap (Pakol round cap), Chhulu & Chalini (Kurta and Payjama) and Feraq. However, Ferans are also worn but it is not the traditional attire of Gurezis. Their favourite food is Aloo (Potato) and Rajma or Lungoo (Spinach) with rice as these are locally cultivated and produced in their villages. They also like Gosht (mutton) in their regular meals. Waz-a-wan is also prepared by the locals and “Noon-Chai” or Salt tea is generally taken by the locals.

In Aug.2023, a Shina cultural center was opened up in Dawar village, which was developed by Indian Army and District Administration. This is India’s first museum for Dardis tracing the journey of Shina culture, languages and Dard way of life.

Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive-img_0481.jpg


Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive-img_04821.jpg


Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive-img_04842.jpg


Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive-img_04841.jpg

Last edited by ruzbehxyz : 9th November 2023 at 10:15.
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Old 8th November 2023, 11:03   #17
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Re: Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive

The Permit system:



For Kupwara district:-

Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive-kupwara-area.png

Since June 2022, the restricted areas in Kupwara district need an online permit which can be obtained few days before your travel. Prior to that the permit was given physically through the DC office.

Link: http://epass.kupwara.co.in/

These places include:-

1. Karnah. (Route: Kupwara - Sadhna pass - Teetwal).
2. Keran. (Route: Kupwara - Pharkian Gali - Keran).
3. Machil. (Route: Kupwara - Zamindar Gali - Machil).

The other places in Kupwara district listed below do not need any permit:
1. Bangus valley.
2. Lolab valley.
3. Kalaroos.

All the other places like TMG, Putakhan Gali etc., require Army permission and is not easily obtainable.

More places are coming up as we speak.

Be prepared to carry many copies of the permits, to submit at various security checkposts on each leg.


Other places:-

1. Chakan Da Bagh in Poonch district currently requires Army permission to visit.

2. Kaman post near Uri, in Baramulla district does not need any permssion except that you need to submit your ID cards and use a token system for the visit.

3. Gurez valley does not need prior permission, except that you need a Government ID card like Aadhar, to enter your details at various checkposts. For proceeding ahead of Chakwali or any Border outpost, you will need prior permission.

Any diversions from the regular route or going ahead like in Machil sector or visiting Seemari village ahead of Teetwal, will require permission. It is better to stick to the main road route to avoid any security issues and avoid being stopped and questioned.

Please respect the dignity of the Armed forces and do not take pictures of sensitive areas and Army installations enroute. If any special photograph is required, please obtain prior permission.

Last edited by ruzbehxyz : 8th November 2023 at 12:47.
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Old 8th November 2023, 11:13   #18
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Re: Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive

Conclusion:



Jammu & Kashmir is to the Himalayas, what Switzerland is to the Alps. It is also called as the,“Switzerland of East”. The sights in J&K are well known for tourism potential all around the world. Kashmir is a natural tourist magnet with its alpine forests, lush greenery, cool climate, high mountains, ski slopes, snow peaks and breath-taking valleys. However decades of unrest have destroyed the tourism industry, which is now slowly picking up.

According to the J&K government 50,000 rooms will be added in Kashmir, through the homestay initiative at 75 new locations across the UT. At present only 800 homestays are registered with the Tourism department. The decision to start and develop tourist destinations in J&K does not seem pragmatic from the security and environmental perspectives. Areas such as Bangus valley which has a fragile ecosystem should be left alone or tourism should be restricted.

The Himalayan mountainous region has faced severe environmental changes in the past decade, with rampant flooding, erratic rains, Cloud bursts, melting of Glaciers and higher temperatures, leading to major environmental issues.

Tourism booms the economy, but it should not be at the cost of the environment. Many of the Kashmir's popular tourist spots are currently grappling with overcrowding and experiencing a surge in litter due to the sheer volume of tourists. A substantial portion of this waste finds its way into rivers and forests due to inadequate waste management facilities. The existing unplanned development may soon be transformed completely in to a chain of unplanned infrastructure. Seeing the tourism and infrastructure mess in hilly states like Himachal Pradesh and Uttarakhand, I wonder if the ‘Heaven on earth’ will soon be next. Commercialisation and tourism seem to be picking up fast in newer valleys of Kashmir. This can eventually ruin the natural habitat and livelihood of the locals, once these areas are invaded by irresponsible tourists and eventually will have an adverse impact on the environment. Hope I am proved wrong.


TRAVEL RESPONSIBLY. LEAVE NOTHING BUT FOOTPRINTS.

Last edited by ruzbehxyz : 8th November 2023 at 21:10.
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Old 9th November 2023, 11:36   #19
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Re: Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive

Thread moved out from the Assembly Line. Thanks for sharing!
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Old 10th November 2023, 10:05   #20
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Re: Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive

My goodness the amount of details and history that you have mentioned!

Good to see tourism booming in these terrorism prone places. We had done Mughal road in 2016 during our Ladakh ride and witnessed terrorism first hand when we were attacked at Shopian. We were at the wrong place at the wrong time when stone pelting was at its peak. Although with god's grace we managed to escape but ended up being stuck in a curfew at Srinagar for 4 days straight.
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Old 10th November 2023, 10:26   #21
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Re: Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive

So educative and beautiful pics of the travelogue. Hope people travel more to these parts of the country. Nothing heals like prosperity.

Should be so surreal to watch PoK on other side with view of people, cars and buildings sipping coffee at just few metres distance
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Old 10th November 2023, 12:10   #22
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Re: Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive

Kudos to you, Ruzbeh for such a well illustrated and detailed travelogue. Your experience does light up a wish in me to undertake a trip along the route traversed by you.

Also appreciate the sentiment you have displayed in your footnote, ".....leave only footprints", which I believe is something that members of this forum subscribe to.
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Old 10th November 2023, 15:21   #23
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Re: Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive

Ruzbeh, another masterpiece work by you. I remember your previous trip to Zanskar and Aryan valley.
I don't think any amount of online research would've given me this level of depth in details along with all maps of the locations. Kudos to you. Thank you for taking time to compose this.
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Old 10th November 2023, 15:34   #24
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Re: Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive

Wow, this was an EPIC travelogue! Hats off to your diligence & patience in so painstakingly documenting the travel!!
Thank you for showcasing this rarely seen side of an otherwise well travelled to state. This part of the country is inextricably connected to both our culture & history.
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Old 10th November 2023, 15:44   #25
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Re: Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive

Amazing travelogue! I didn't even know it was possible to get that close to the LoC as a civilian.
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Old 10th November 2023, 16:48   #26
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Re: Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive

One Word Awesome
Jammu is my home but I have never crossed Poonch and Patni Top ever ...
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Old 10th November 2023, 16:59   #27
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Re: Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive

Wow. I am mesmerized by the sheer amount of detailing and the pain-staking efforts to memorize and then write. Kudos to your efforts. I am sure it is one of the most detailed travelogue on J&K valley which i have come across in recent times. The pictures and the sector by sector details captured my attention so much so that i was totally lost and dreamt of visiting the places.

I wonder how you guys managed the food and other essentials required to cover sou much distances in such short span of time. What about the refueling, lodging and boarding? Did you make all arrangements before you started the journey? Your travelogue is one which needs to be read may be 2-3 times to absorb the entirety of it. Wishing you all the best for more of these.

J&K is a well-kept secret when it comes to travelling to off beat places and I totally agree with you about the forthcoming perils of opening of tourism in various places at J&K. But then we citizens should get a chance to explore the beauty of the place.
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Old 10th November 2023, 18:00   #28
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Re: Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodge_Viper View Post
My goodness the amount of details and history that you have mentioned!
Quote:
Originally Posted by PreludeSH View Post
So educative and beautiful pics of the travelogue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlphaLamb View Post
Kudos to you, Ruzbeh for such a well illustrated and detailed travelogue.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kashi053 View Post
Ruzbeh, another masterpiece work by you. I remember your previous trip to Zanskar and Aryan valley.
I don't think any amount of online research would've given me this level of depth in details along with all maps of the locations. Kudos to you. Thank you for taking time to compose this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VigWheels View Post
Wow, this was an EPIC travelogue! Hats off to your diligence & patience in so painstakingly documenting the travel!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by McLaren Rulez View Post
Amazing travelogue! I didn't even know it was possible to get that close to the LoC as a civilian.
Thanks for the kind words guys. Please rate the thread 5 stars if it deserves one. Yes the travelogue took long time. Spend > 6 hours daily for 15 days and this is the result. Referred many online articles, books that I have, and above all the local info.
Zanskar was also one of its kind. In fact there are two Zanskar travelogues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rajat347 View Post
One Word Awesome
Jammu is my home but I have never crossed Poonch and Patni Top ever ...
Yes J&K has lot to offer and we should be proud of our Armed Forced and the Administration who had this vision to make this possible. Hostilities may never end but we as citizens of India have the right to visit any state provided we are permitted and that can only happen when the Armed Forces and/or local police and the guys behind the scene are doing their job.
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Old 10th November 2023, 18:13   #29
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Re: Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive

Amazing travelogue, just glanced at the photos and posts for now. Bookmarked for Sunday morning. I guess it probably needs a day or more to properly digest all the info you have shared.

The old gazettes are indeed a treasure trove of information. Fascinating to read on their own, but coupled with a purpose, it becomes all the more interesting to sift through. Just last month, I was exploring India’s telegraph network and how it all expanded to the summer capitals in the hills.

Last edited by Dry Ice : 10th November 2023 at 18:37. Reason: not winter, summer
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Old 10th November 2023, 19:14   #30
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Re: Unseen Kashmir: The LoC drive

Quote:
Originally Posted by loki_marvel View Post
Wow. I am mesmerized by the sheer amount of detailing and the pain-staking efforts to memorize and then write. Kudos to your efforts. I am sure it is one of the most detailed travelogue on J&K valley which i have come across in recent times.
Thanks. Yes, it is indeed a detailed travelogue.


Quote:
I wonder how you guys managed the food and other essentials required to cover sou much distances in such short span of time. What about the refueling, lodging and boarding? Did you make all arrangements before you started the journey?
As mentioned in the travelogue we stayed at many Army mess'. Thanks to the Indian Army to host us. No pre-bookings were done. Fuel is no issue as the distances around Kupwara are not much. There are plenty of pumps. Just before each pass you can refill, and you are good to go.


Quote:
Your travelogue is one which needs to be read may be 2-3 times to absorb the entirety of it. Wishing you all the best for more of these.
Thanks for the kind words. Many more will cone.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dry Ice View Post
Amazing travelogue, just glanced at the photos and posts for now. Bookmarked for Sunday morning. I guess it probably needs a day or more to properly digest all the info you have shared.
Yes. Since it is very long, it will take time to read. I have also included an Index in post no.1 for everyone. That will be convenient. If you have read the two Zanskar travelogues, then let me tell you this one is smaller
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