4 days trip in Kodagu (Coorg)

-GT- · 30th August 2007, 18:25

Finally got around to make this trip between the 13th and 16th of Aug. The travelogue follows:

Aug 13, 2007
Route: Mysore - Hunsur - Priyapatna - Bylukuppe - Kushal Nagar - Madikeri

Left Mysore at about 1330 hours. Generally a pretty good highway with short segments of bad roads where the works are in progress. Reached Bylukuppe by 1500 hours. Visited the Golden Monastery (Nyingmapa Monastery) of the Tibetans settled over here.

Thought we could do a bit of shopping at the Tibetan stores when we are there; but found out that you would be able to buy those things cheaper elsewhere.

Left Bylukuppe and reached Cauvery Nisargadhama at 1600 hours in adjacent Kushal Nagar. The place was teaming with two bus loads of engineering students from Chennai. Spent some time there relaxing and breathing fresh air to detoxify the lungs from the city's pollution.

Left Cauvery Nisargadhama soon and hit the road to Madikeri. Thought of driving straight up to the Raja Seat for sunset, but the arrival of light rains accompanied by dark clouds changed our plan. Reached Madikeri and checked-in at Hotel Coorg International at about 1830 hours.

We had a long day and had planned for yet another the next day. Had a sumptuous buffet at the Hotel and retired.

Aug 14, 2007

Morning Session: Route: Madikeri – Bhagamandala – Talacauvery - Madikeri

Left Madkeri at about 0915 hours. Weather condition: Dry & Cloudy

Made an unscheduled stop at the Indian Institute of Spices Research on the way to Bhagamandala, just at the outskirts of Madikeri. The Head of the institution, Dr. Venugopal was very helpful; he sent a Lab technician to escort us around the institute’s 42 acre plantations. The visit to the plantations was very educative and informative to all of us. I would strongly recommend this place as a must-visit for anyone traveling to Madikeri. Saw and learnt about many kinds of plants such as coffee, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper etc. (truly a Biryani lover’s paradise).

Spent an hour and proceeded to Bhagamandala at 1030 hours. Visited the temple which was under renovation and improvement works. Reached Talacauvery by 1135 hours. Lots of good work is being done as a part of a renovation drive. The temple premises were very nice and tidy.

Left Talacauvery at about 1215 hours, stopped at a shop selling honey and spices. Stopped once again at the ‘view point’ for a while.

We wanted to come down to Bhagamandala and take the road to Kakkabe. We were advised that this road is a disaster after the monsoons by the local autorickshaw wallahs. We therefore proceeded straight to the Hotel in the rain drizzle.

Afternoon session: Route: Madikeri – Murnad – Kadanur (SH88B) – took right at Kadanur towards Cheyyendane – Chelevara Falls – Cheyyandane – Nalknad Palace – Kakkabe – Napoklu – Bettageri - Madikeri

Started after lunch by about 1430 hours. The SH88B up to Kadanur was pretty good (no sign of monsoon damage). Turned right towards Cheyyandane and to left at Cheyyandane for Chelevara Falls. Even the road to Chelevara was not too bad – guess low clearance cars would take some beating however. Before I forget, I should say that almost all road signs are in Kannada only. So we had to re-confirm our routes at any junction with the locals.

Reached Chelavera at about 1610 hours. The Chelavera Falls was awesome – crystal clear & abundant post monsoon water. Trekked up and then down towards the base of the falls. The dry conditions definitely helped. The water was pure and tasty – gives a new meaning to ‘mineral water’. Came up and trekked further up to the origin of the falls. Spent some good time at the falls enjoying the natural, unspoilt beauty. There was not a single soul anywhere nearby.

Started from Chelavera at about 1710 hours and proceeded towards Nalknad Summer Palace. Signboards are non-existent. A narrow road on the left has a kind of hand-written sign “Palace Road”. Turned in and kept driving up the ghat section and finally reached the Nalknad Palace. The palace was locked up and the keys are apparently with some government archeological body. The keeper was very friendly – who took us around the palace and explained a bit of history and the geography of the palace insides. Just when we were thinking that there are no leeches in the whole of Kodagu as widely talked about, my son jumped up with a leech sticking on to his leg. The Palace keeper immediately pulled it off before the leech could do any damage.

The sun was going down and we thought we better get going. We had to skip the Padi Iguthappa Temple. Left Nalknad by about 1800 hours and took the route back to Madikeri via Napoklu. Fortunately, even this road was in a pretty good shape. Reached Madikeri by about 1930 hours and retired for the day.

Aug 15, 2007

After the hectic travel of the previous two days, we decided to spend a leisurely day visiting the usual tourist interests within and around Madkeri.

Weather condition: Dry & Sunny

Started with Abbey falls, then to Omkareshwara Temple, Raja Seat, and local shopping for coffee and back to hotel for lunch.

The Independence Day is being celebrated fervently out in Madikeri; the result of so many people from this place enlisted in the Armed Forces, I suppose.

We decided to go on a leisurely drive towards West on the Madikeri- Mangalore road in the afternoon. This road was horrible, but the scenes around were excellent. As we kept going 20 to 30 kms, we can see the change in landscape from coffee plantations in Madikeri to Rubber and Arecanut plantations as the altitude goes down. The bonus was the beautiful mist and drizzle that added to the beauty of this place.

Returned back to Madikeri 1830 hours.

Aug 16, 2007

Route: Madikeri – Murnad – Virajpet (SH88B) – Gonikappa (SH88A) took right – Ponnampet – Hudikeri – Srimangala – Iruppu Falls – Kutta – took left – Nagerhole National Park – Murkal – Hunsur – Mysore.

Checked-out of Hotel and left Madkeri at about 0915 hours. Weather condition: Dry & Sunny

Long drive without any stop until Iruppu Falls. The roads were good up to Hudikeri after which the road was bad all the way up to Kutta. Reached the temple at the base of Iruppu Falls by about 1200 hours. Iruppu falls is a 0.75 km trek up. Iruppu Falls was also had a healthy flow of clear water. Spent some relaxing time at the falls.

Left the area by about 1310 hours, stopped at Kutta for a half hour lunch break. Reached Nagerhole National Park at about 1420 hours. Hung around there for a while and made the mistake of taking the one hour Jungle Safari at 1520 hours; this is totally useless and a complete waste of time. I don’t think you can spot any animal with the noise that the bus makes.

Left Nagerhole at 1440 hours, and reached Mysore KRS Brindavan 1830 hours.

Thanks to NIP and the others at this forum for some good pointers. From my side, I will advise anyone who does not have a detailed map of Kodagu to download the Survey of India district map from Kodava.org - Official Website of Kodava Community - This is what I used to get around.

akroy · 30th August 2007, 19:54

Nice writeup and it was indeed nice to see that you went to Coorg with some time in hand, I felt it cannot be done in 2-3 days, I always thought 4 day's trip to Coorg is better and you can enjoy the places...

But mate, where are the pics? You dont feel the travelogue without it...Any Idea how was Hotel Coorg International? pricing, facilities, pros-cons?

Abhi

rjstyles69 · 30th August 2007, 20:30

Glad that you spent 4 days for a trip. Lucky you !!

Sheesh whats a travelogue without pics man ?

Abhi coorg can be done in 2days flat. Unless you wanna go trekking or off-roading around Kakabbe/Murnad area.

Lukeskywalker · 30th August 2007, 22:46

Photos??
I thought Coorg was accessible only by boat this season.

-GT- · 30th August 2007, 22:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by akroy

But mate, where are the pics? You dont feel the travelogue without it...Any Idea how was Hotel Coorg International? pricing, facilities, pros-cons?

Abhi

I am yet to figure out how to post pics. Will somehow get to do soon.

Hotel Coorg Int'l - off-season rate I paid was Rs 4,000 / day (this includes Rs 1,000 extra for additional bed and a full APAI plan i.e. all food). This hotel is oldish; but what we all liked was the warmth (not plasticky) and hospitality. The food can be rated as good to very good - some dishes may not be as good, but definitely not bad.

-GT- · 30th August 2007, 22:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lukeskywalker

I thought Coorg was accessible only by boat this season.

I didn't have a choice to choose the period. Should say took a chance; but my Coorgi friend did tell me that it normally rains at nights and not at days in August.

The place apparently was lashed by heavy rains up to 9th or 10th August including heavy flooding (& loss of lives) in Bhagamandala area. We were just lucky that the weather held up very well between 13th & 16th

akroy · 31st August 2007, 07:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjstyles69

Abhi coorg can be done in 2days flat. Unless you wanna go trekking or off-roading around Kakabbe/Murnad area.

Ok, probably when I went to Coorg, my inlaws came with us, that is the reason it was taking more time to roam around otherwise we could have covered more places...

Abhi

s0uljah · 31st August 2007, 22:00

GT your lucky lucky lucky!!! Was just dreaming of when I could go next.

Dry & Sunny? Thats a surprise.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjstyles69

Unless you wanna go trekking or off-roading around Kakabbe/Murnad area.

I vaaaaaaaaaant ! This is definitely something which is fun and also gives you a different feel of Coorg all together. Amazing what those jeeps can do and the different conditions within very short distances. NIP and a bunch of us had been there in June. Great fun!

-GT- · 1st September 2007, 11:51

Bylukuppe Tibetan Monastery:

On the way to Bhagamandala:

Supersized Butterfly – at least 9 inches at wings:

Talacauvery:

Honey & Spices shop at Talacauvery:

Way back to Madikeri:

Saw this beauty on the Madikeri – Murnad Road:

Chelavera Falls:

View from Raja Seat:

Roadside Water Falls: Madikeri – Mangalore Road:

Stopped for Tea: Madikeri – Mangalore Road:

Iruppu Falls:

rjstyles69 · 4th September 2007, 17:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by -GT-

Honey & Spices shop at Talacauvery:

Something that I missed. Where is this at ?

The Merc' you posted, damn I wouldn't know what model also it is GT. Pardon my ignorance

.

Looks like you did the exact same trip as me on day 2. Read here (Travelogue : Mercara with a touch of History) .

-GT- · 5th September 2007, 21:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjstyles69

Something that I missed. Where is this at ?

This Honey & Spices shop is the first shop as you start driving down from Talacauvery towards Bhagamandala. Owned by a charming young lady (No, I didn't know of her until I visited the place).

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjstyles69

The Merc' you posted, damn I wouldn't know what model also it is GT.

I guess that would be late 70's or early 80's model. Didn't stop to look at the particular model.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjstyles69

Looks like you did the exact same trip as me on day 2. Read here (Travelogue : Mercara with a touch of History) .

Hey rjstyles69: Of course - pretty close. Thanks to you, and others like NIP of this forum that I planned our trip.

rajni · 14th February 2013, 20:50

Was searching for Coorg travelogues as I was planning a quick trip and this thread came up. I see this is pretty old and things would have changed. Well, nice narration GT. Just wanted to add that the moth (not butterfly) with title "Supersized Butterfly – at least 9 inches at wings:" in this page is the largest of its kind. It's named "Atlas Moth".

carzone · 15th February 2013, 22:27

Thanks to Rajni, this thread came up the list in the travelogues section.

I had been to Madikeri and Virajpet in the month of September 2012 and seeing your pics, those memories just got refreshed.
Adding some more from my side if you don't mind.

4 days trip in Kodagu (Coorg)-05092012824optimized.jpg

4 days trip in Kodagu (Coorg)-100_3409optimized.jpg

Tibetean Monastery

4 days trip in Kodagu (Coorg)-100_3462optimized.jpg

4 days trip in Kodagu (Coorg)-100_3464optimized.jpg

Abby falls

4 days trip in Kodagu (Coorg)-06092012902optimized.jpg

4 days trip in Kodagu (Coorg)-06092012909optimized.jpg

Chelluvera falls

4 days trip in Kodagu (Coorg)-07092012942optimized.jpg

4 days trip in Kodagu (Coorg)-07092012961optimized.jpg

Talacauvery

It was way to foggy at Talacauvery and not to mention that we enjoyed the atmosphere of those days too much.

30th August 2007, 18:25	#1
-GT- BHPian Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Chennai / Dubai Posts: 171 Thanked: 3 Times	4 days trip in Kodagu (Coorg) Finally got around to make this trip between the 13th and 16th of Aug. The travelogue follows: Aug 13, 2007 Route: Mysore - Hunsur - Priyapatna - Bylukuppe - Kushal Nagar - Madikeri Left Mysore at about 1330 hours. Generally a pretty good highway with short segments of bad roads where the works are in progress. Reached Bylukuppe by 1500 hours. Visited the Golden Monastery (Nyingmapa Monastery) of the Tibetans settled over here. Thought we could do a bit of shopping at the Tibetan stores when we are there; but found out that you would be able to buy those things cheaper elsewhere. Left Bylukuppe and reached Cauvery Nisargadhama at 1600 hours in adjacent Kushal Nagar. The place was teaming with two bus loads of engineering students from Chennai. Spent some time there relaxing and breathing fresh air to detoxify the lungs from the city's pollution. Left Cauvery Nisargadhama soon and hit the road to Madikeri. Thought of driving straight up to the Raja Seat for sunset, but the arrival of light rains accompanied by dark clouds changed our plan. Reached Madikeri and checked-in at Hotel Coorg International at about 1830 hours. We had a long day and had planned for yet another the next day. Had a sumptuous buffet at the Hotel and retired. Aug 14, 2007 Morning Session: Route: Madikeri – Bhagamandala – Talacauvery - Madikeri Left Madkeri at about 0915 hours. Weather condition: Dry & Cloudy Made an unscheduled stop at the Indian Institute of Spices Research on the way to Bhagamandala, just at the outskirts of Madikeri. The Head of the institution, Dr. Venugopal was very helpful; he sent a Lab technician to escort us around the institute’s 42 acre plantations. The visit to the plantations was very educative and informative to all of us. I would strongly recommend this place as a must-visit for anyone traveling to Madikeri. Saw and learnt about many kinds of plants such as coffee, cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper etc. (truly a Biryani lover’s paradise). Spent an hour and proceeded to Bhagamandala at 1030 hours. Visited the temple which was under renovation and improvement works. Reached Talacauvery by 1135 hours. Lots of good work is being done as a part of a renovation drive. The temple premises were very nice and tidy. Left Talacauvery at about 1215 hours, stopped at a shop selling honey and spices. Stopped once again at the ‘view point’ for a while. We wanted to come down to Bhagamandala and take the road to Kakkabe. We were advised that this road is a disaster after the monsoons by the local autorickshaw wallahs. We therefore proceeded straight to the Hotel in the rain drizzle. Afternoon session: Route: Madikeri – Murnad – Kadanur (SH88B) – took right at Kadanur towards Cheyyendane – Chelevara Falls – Cheyyandane – Nalknad Palace – Kakkabe – Napoklu – Bettageri - Madikeri Started after lunch by about 1430 hours. The SH88B up to Kadanur was pretty good (no sign of monsoon damage). Turned right towards Cheyyandane and to left at Cheyyandane for Chelevara Falls. Even the road to Chelevara was not too bad – guess low clearance cars would take some beating however. Before I forget, I should say that almost all road signs are in Kannada only. So we had to re-confirm our routes at any junction with the locals. Reached Chelavera at about 1610 hours. The Chelavera Falls was awesome – crystal clear & abundant post monsoon water. Trekked up and then down towards the base of the falls. The dry conditions definitely helped. The water was pure and tasty – gives a new meaning to ‘mineral water’. Came up and trekked further up to the origin of the falls. Spent some good time at the falls enjoying the natural, unspoilt beauty. There was not a single soul anywhere nearby. Started from Chelavera at about 1710 hours and proceeded towards Nalknad Summer Palace. Signboards are non-existent. A narrow road on the left has a kind of hand-written sign “Palace Road”. Turned in and kept driving up the ghat section and finally reached the Nalknad Palace. The palace was locked up and the keys are apparently with some government archeological body. The keeper was very friendly – who took us around the palace and explained a bit of history and the geography of the palace insides. Just when we were thinking that there are no leeches in the whole of Kodagu as widely talked about, my son jumped up with a leech sticking on to his leg. The Palace keeper immediately pulled it off before the leech could do any damage. The sun was going down and we thought we better get going. We had to skip the Padi Iguthappa Temple. Left Nalknad by about 1800 hours and took the route back to Madikeri via Napoklu. Fortunately, even this road was in a pretty good shape. Reached Madikeri by about 1930 hours and retired for the day. Aug 15, 2007 After the hectic travel of the previous two days, we decided to spend a leisurely day visiting the usual tourist interests within and around Madkeri. Weather condition: Dry & Sunny Started with Abbey falls, then to Omkareshwara Temple, Raja Seat, and local shopping for coffee and back to hotel for lunch. The Independence Day is being celebrated fervently out in Madikeri; the result of so many people from this place enlisted in the Armed Forces, I suppose. We decided to go on a leisurely drive towards West on the Madikeri- Mangalore road in the afternoon. This road was horrible, but the scenes around were excellent. As we kept going 20 to 30 kms, we can see the change in landscape from coffee plantations in Madikeri to Rubber and Arecanut plantations as the altitude goes down. The bonus was the beautiful mist and drizzle that added to the beauty of this place. Returned back to Madikeri 1830 hours. Aug 16, 2007 Route: Madikeri – Murnad – Virajpet (SH88B) – Gonikappa (SH88A) took right – Ponnampet – Hudikeri – Srimangala – Iruppu Falls – Kutta – took left – Nagerhole National Park – Murkal – Hunsur – Mysore. Checked-out of Hotel and left Madkeri at about 0915 hours. Weather condition: Dry & Sunny Long drive without any stop until Iruppu Falls. The roads were good up to Hudikeri after which the road was bad all the way up to Kutta. Reached the temple at the base of Iruppu Falls by about 1200 hours. Iruppu falls is a 0.75 km trek up. Iruppu Falls was also had a healthy flow of clear water. Spent some relaxing time at the falls. Left the area by about 1310 hours, stopped at Kutta for a half hour lunch break. Reached Nagerhole National Park at about 1420 hours. Hung around there for a while and made the mistake of taking the one hour Jungle Safari at 1520 hours; this is totally useless and a complete waste of time. I don’t think you can spot any animal with the noise that the bus makes. Left Nagerhole at 1440 hours, and reached Mysore KRS Brindavan 1830 hours. Thanks to NIP and the others at this forum for some good pointers. From my side, I will advise anyone who does not have a detailed map of Kodagu to download the Survey of India district map from Kodava.org - Official Website of Kodava Community - This is what I used to get around.
	() Thanks

30th August 2007, 19:54	#2
akroy Senior - BHPian Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: San Francisco, CA, USA Posts: 2,423 Thanked: 85 Times View My Garage	Nice writeup and it was indeed nice to see that you went to Coorg with some time in hand, I felt it cannot be done in 2-3 days, I always thought 4 day's trip to Coorg is better and you can enjoy the places... But mate, where are the pics? You dont feel the travelogue without it...Any Idea how was Hotel Coorg International? pricing, facilities, pros-cons? Abhi
	() Thanks

30th August 2007, 20:30	#3
rjstyles69 Senior - BHPian Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Bengalooru.. Posts: 4,343 Thanked: 842 Times View My Garage	Glad that you spent 4 days for a trip. Lucky you !! Sheesh whats a travelogue without pics man ? Abhi coorg can be done in 2days flat. Unless you wanna go trekking or off-roading around Kakabbe/Murnad area.
	() Thanks

30th August 2007, 22:46	#4
Lukeskywalker Senior - BHPian Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Bangalore Posts: 1,397 Thanked: 1,243 Times View My Garage	Photos?? I thought Coorg was accessible only by boat this season.
	() Thanks

1st September 2007, 11:51	#9
-GT- BHPian Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Chennai / Dubai Posts: 171 Thanked: 3 Times	Now the pics: Bylukuppe Tibetan Monastery: On the way to Bhagamandala: Supersized Butterfly – at least 9 inches at wings: Talacauvery: Honey & Spices shop at Talacauvery: Way back to Madikeri: Saw this beauty on the Madikeri – Murnad Road: Chelavera Falls: View from Raja Seat: Roadside Water Falls: Madikeri – Mangalore Road: Stopped for Tea: Madikeri – Mangalore Road: Iruppu Falls:
	() Thanks

14th February 2013, 20:50	#12
rajni BHPian Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Bangalore Posts: 125 Thanked: 41 Times View My Garage	Re: 4 days trip in Kodagu (Coorg) Was searching for Coorg travelogues as I was planning a quick trip and this thread came up. I see this is pretty old and things would have changed. Well, nice narration GT. Just wanted to add that the moth (not butterfly) with title "Supersized Butterfly – at least 9 inches at wings:" in this page is the largest of its kind. It's named "Atlas Moth".
	() Thanks

15th February 2013, 22:27	#13
carzone BHPian Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Mumbai Posts: 581 Thanked: 295 Times	Re: 4 days trip in Kodagu (Coorg) Thanks to Rajni, this thread came up the list in the travelogues section. I had been to Madikeri and Virajpet in the month of September 2012 and seeing your pics, those memories just got refreshed. Adding some more from my side if you don't mind. Tibetean Monastery Abby falls Chelluvera falls Talacauvery It was way to foggy at Talacauvery and not to mention that we enjoyed the atmosphere of those days too much.
	(1) Thanks