[arunrajk81]

I’ve wanted to explore Death Valley National Park for the past few years, but it never happened because my family wasn’t interested. So, this December, I decided to do a solo drive to Death Valley and explore some trails.


What motivated me now is that I recently made some minor modifications to my SUV. I changed the 20-inch OEM wheels to 18-inch OEM and upgraded the skid plates and underbody protection to thicker metal ones. I would like to add rock rails but decided to keep the side steps since they are very useful for my family during daily use. I’d like to take it to moderately challenging off-road trails to test the changes. There is an off-road park near my house, but I’d prefer to take it to Death Valley so that I can also complete my long-pending trip.


A few days before the trip, when I mentioned that I would be doing some trail/off-pavement driving, my third grader changed his mind and decided to join me. He even brought his own RC Jeep on the trip so he could play with it. So now, it’s officially a boys' trip. We also planned to do some stargazing since there are places with very little man-made lighting inside the park, so that there wouldn’t be any light pollution.



The Death Valley Entrance from the Bay area side



The never ending Road



Varied Landscape



Fun Facts: Death Valley is the place where the hottest temperature ever recorded on Earth (134°F/56.67°C) occurred, and some parts of it are 282 feet below sea level. It is the largest national park in the mainland United States by area (Alaska has the largest national park overall, but it is not part of the mainland). This was news to me, as I had thought Yellowstone was the biggest. The majority of park is in California, with a small part extending into Nevada.


There were around 4,000 burros (donkeys) in and around Death Valley, which are not native to the area. They are descendants of the animals brought during the Gold Rush when Death Valley was a hot spot for mining (Not only gold, for other minerals as well) but was later abandoned. The government recently spent several million dollars to remove them from the park boundaries, but they can still be seen just outside the park.



Few distant Barros


You can also find remnants of several mines and ghost town scattered throughout Death Valley. There are miles of backcountry roads in Death Valley, making it a paradise for off-roaders and overlanders. Some off-road trails are even as long as 77 miles. There are many abandoned mines and ghost towns in Death Valley from the Gold Rush and mining era, and these trails were created when they were active 80 to 100 years ago


If you’re interested in diverse landscapes and vibrant earth colors, Death Valley is the place to visit. During spring, around April, Death Valley is known for its wildflower blooms, which attract many visitors and during 2016 there was a super bloom. If you think peak summer would be the off-season due to the extreme heat, you’d be wrong. Many visitors, including people from Europe, come during the hottest days just to experience the intense heat.


Unfortunately, accidents occasionally occur. Last year, a biker tragically died of heat stroke during the peak summer day. Other incidents involve people becoming stranded on backcountry roads and wandering off in an attempt to escape, which is nearly impossible due to the vastness and extreme heat. In such situations, it is recommended to stay in your car, preferably in the shade with the hood open, so that someone else traveling the trail can spot you.


Roughly 500 miles from my house, Death Valley is about an 8-hour drive. Our plan was to stay for one night and two days. We brought plenty of water, some bottles of electrolyte drinks, snacks, power banks, and an electric kettle. Additionally, we packed some basic car essentials for off pavement driving like traction pads, a tire deflator/inflator, a shovel, and other basic tools.
There is no cellphone reception in most parts of Death Valley. If you have a phone or device that can share your location via satellite in case of an emergency, it can be a huge advantage if you plan to explore backcountry roads. Because of this, carrying a printed backcountry map is highly recommended. These maps are available at visitor centers or can be printed online.


We started around 2 AM from home because I didn’t want to arrive at the park by noon and risk spoiling the day if it was too sunny or hot.

We entered the park around 11 AM, and since it’s winter, the temperature was between 10°C and 17°C. However, the sun's rays were still strong, giving a unique feeling—warm but pleasant compared to the scorching heat Death Valley is known for.
Our first stop was Stovepipe Wells Village, an old mining village and one of the only two places inside Death Valley where you can find a fuel station and restaurants. The village also has a general store, a gift shop, and a few rooms available for lodging. After exploring the area, we had lunch at the restaurant there. The restaurant's theme resembles an old countryside bar, featuring several posters of classic movies that were filmed in the area.



Stove-Pipe Weels Village



The General Store



The Bar and Restaurant



An Old Fire International Truck



An Old Tractor



Some History


Death Valley is one of the places where manufacturers bring their new vehicles for testing. The idea is that if a car can survive the intense summer heat of Death Valley, it can withstand any other hot place in the world. During our visit, we saw three camouflaged test mules: one that looked like the new Kia Sorento, another that I couldn’t identify, and a third that seemed to be the next-generation RAV4. In some areas, you can see roadside signs advising drivers to switch off their air conditioning to prevent their cars from overheating.


The next stop was Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, which is only a 10-minute drive away. The dunes got their name from the mesquite trees that survive in such harsh conditions. Death Valley is the location for several famous movies, including Jurassic Park and Star Wars. One of the scenes from Star Wars was filmed here at these sand dunes. We spent around 30 minutes there, walking through the dunes for a while before continuing our drive.



Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes



Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes


Our next stop was the Furnace Creek Visitor Center, the main visitor center located in the middle of Death Valley. This is the second place where you can find a fuel station, Tesla Supercharger, food, and lodging, though everything is quite expensive. You can pay for the entry pass here, which costs around $35, or if you have an annual pass, you’ll receive a pass to display on your dashboard.


We spent some time here, but we preferred the souvenirs and goodies we had already purchased from Stovepipe Wells. There is a thermometer in the front ha displays the temperature and it’s a favorite selfie spot.


The Artist’s Palette is a short scenic drive of 8.5 miles with viewpoints offering views of rainbow-colored soil across tiny peaks. The coloration comes from the chemical composition of the volcanic soil, which contains iron oxide, chlorite, and other minerals. We went for a short hike and climbed a few of the colorful hills there. I saw some geology enthusiasts walking around, searching for small stones of interest.



Earth Colours from Artist’s Palette



A washed trail from Artist’s Palette



Another view

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Ski-ceNCns&ab

Dashcam from Artist's Palette - There is a Wide body Dodge Challenger Demon ahead us


Our next stop was the Devil's Golf Course, a flat area between mountains that was once a lake called Lake Manly, which dried up around 2,000 years ago. The dissolved minerals and salts from the surrounding mountains accumulated over the centuries, forming a scaly salt pan with depths ranging from 1,000 to 9,000 feet below. The area is very photogenic, but being there feels different. The scaly nature of the salt deposits can tear your skin if you're not careful.



The Devil's Golf Course



The Devil's Golf Course - At the end of the Trail


I read about a naturally formed bridge in the park and decided it was a must-visit. To reach the Natural Bridge Trail, you need to take a short drive along an unpaved road. The terrain is such that you either have to drive very fast or very slow, at a normal speed, it shakes the car to an uncomfortable level, I know that airing down the tires to 20-25 PSI would solve this, but it’s a short trail. From the parking lot, there’s a walking trail that leads to the natural bridge, which was carved by flowing water over centuries. Yes, flash floods do occur in certain areas of Death Valley. It was only 30 minutes before sunset, so we turned back without completing the trail as soon as we reached the bridge.



At the Natural Bridge Trail - One peak is well-lit, while the other is in the shadow.



At the Natural Bridge Trail



The Natural Bridge or Arch



Trail Parking



The Trail


Our next point, The Badwater Basin is the lowest point in North America, at 282 feet (86 meters) below sea level, covering around 200 square miles of sodium chloride, along with calcite, gypsum, and borax. There is water in this area, which is an extension of the Devil's Golf Course and part of the same Lake Manly. The story goes that when early prospectors arrived and saw the water, their mules refused to drink from it because it wasn’t drinkable, and they named it Badwater Basin. From the parking lot, you can see the sea level marker, which you need to look up at the mountain to spot. We waited for the sunset here, and my son did some off-roading with the RC Jeep he brought along. This was our last stop for the day.



The Badwater Basin



The sea level is marked above the mountain.


Since the accommodation inside the park is much more expensive compared to nearby towns, we booked our stay in Beatty, a small town on the Nevada side. It’s on the opposite side of Death Valley from where we entered, so we literally drove across the park. Beatty is one of the closest towns to Death Valley and offers all the amenities of a small town. Since it was already dark when we arrived, we couldn’t explore the town as planned. We picked up dinner from a Subway and went to the hotel.

[arunrajk81]

We woke up early in the morning with the goal of watching the sunrise at Zabriskie Point, which is about 55 miles from the hotel and is the most photographed places in Death Valley. We could hear the howling of coyotes from nearby hills and the burros and saw a few burros in the hotel parking lot. We reached Zabriskie Point just 2-3 minutes after the actual sunrise, but it was okay since the main attraction wasn’t the sun rising, but the multicolored mountains created by the sunlight. Some hills were fully illuminated by the sun, while others were still in the shadows, which we were able to watch. With this, we covered all the sightseeing spots we planned for this visit. There were many other points to explore, but for a one-night trip, this is what was possible.



A burro at the parking



Sunrise at Death Valley



Zabriskie Point



Zabriskie Point - Slowly lighting up one of the peaks



Zabriskie Point - A pano view


Our next plan is to do some backcountry driving. Each trail requires a different level of expertise and vehicle capability, which is noted on the map. It’s always advisable to go with a buddy in another vehicle, so they can help pull you out if you get stuck and vice versa.


Since I don’t have anyone to accompany me now, I planned to take a relatively short trail, around 12 miles, which is rated as easy to medium level which is called Big four Mine Trail. The first three-quarters of this trail are accessible with a good AWD vehicle, but the last section may require a vehicle with low range and high clearance.


There were several washboards on the trail that we crossed. No backcountry road in the U.S. is complete without some abandoned cars or buildings, and we saw a couple. One car was from the bubbly car era (1950s and 60s), and the second was from the early muscle car era. All identifiable parts had rusted away, so I couldn’t identify the model or brand at that time. It seemed someone had used them for target practice, as I could see the bullet holes.


On the trail, besides Jeeps and pickup trucks, I also saw a BMW X5 and a Subaru Outback, and they were overlanders right before the tough section of the trail. I decided to drive a bit further into the hard part of the trail, which had loose, sharp volcanic rocks. After a while, I didn’t see any other vehicles, and the trail became overgrown with bushes. I felt that the chances of getting help would be minimal if something went wrong and I am alone, so I decided to turn back. I couldn’t record many videos of trail crawling since I didn’t want my younger one filming from outside while I was driving. I also noticed that the dashcam had smoothed out the undulations to the point beyond recognition.



The Big Four Mines Trail head



The Big Four Mines Trail - A short break to drive the RC Jeep.



Abandoned car at the Trail



Second Car - 1955 Buick Special



Another view

Some videos from the Trail

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dyQ_7_fKcKw&ab

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0rlv2uWbMw&ab

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rWUnaOaCTPE&ab

After the first trail, we decided to drop the plan to take the second trail we had planned, as the trail was too shaky for my son, and he was tired and we hit the road back home.


To identify the car I saw on the trail, it was a muscle car with four round factory-made holes on both sides of the hood, which might be for some ornament or air intake. After Googling, one possibility is that it could be a 1955 Buick Special. I couldn’t identify the second car, but based on the shape, it could be a GM product.



1955 Buick Special - Courtesy - Internet


One thing I felt about this trip was that the trail became too easy, which took away the fun of driving. I had previously taken my Highlander to the riverbed, where it did a lot of wheel spinning and drama to cross the obstacles. But I will take it as a baseline to start with.

Thanks for Reading..

[bsdbsd]

Any travelogue on Death Valley is worth reading! This detailed write up was no exception. You should have stayed at one of the resorts near Furnace Creek, rather than starting your drive at 2AM. That must have been uncomfortable. I was there this April and it was cloudy throughout the day. I drove 15 miles beyond Badwater Basin and even found a lake with water but the drive was scary due to its isoloation.

[karthikd21]

Amazing trip! What better vehicle to chose other than the new LC Loved your drive. One of the best places I have ever been to. Did you not visit Ubehebe crater?

Ubehebe Crater



One more pic showing the vibrant colors from my trip in 2017

[DicKy]

The boys' trip will be a core memory for your son. I was scratching my head whether your Prado in the USA was an older gen one or a grey import, before realising you corrected the US market Landcruiser as the Landcruiser Prado.

Originally Posted by arunrajk81

To identify the car I saw on the trail, it was a muscle car with four round factory-made holes on both sides of the hood, which might be for some ornament or air intake. After Googling, one possibility is that it could be a 1955 Buick Special. I couldn’t identify the second car, but based on the shape, it could be a GM product.

Those holes were a Buick design special. It started out to symbolise the number of cylinders in the engine or the engine power in the model hierarchy. Higher the number of holes, the better. Now it has become some chrome applique in modern Buicks.

[arunrajk81]

Originally Posted by bsdbsd

Any travelogue on Death Valley is worth reading! This detailed write up was no exception. You should have stayed at one of the resorts near Furnace Creek, rather than starting your drive at 2AM. That must have been uncomfortable. I was there this April and it was cloudy throughout the day. I drove 15 miles beyond Badwater Basin and even found a lake with water but the drive was scary due to its isoloation.

I feel that only the person driving truly enjoys the journey, while for the passengers, it's often just the destination that matters. When I start early, my family will be sleeping in the car, so they don’t get bored. By breakfast time, we’re often in a nice spot closer to our destination. This also helps avoid Bay Area traffic.

Starting at 2 a.m. might be a bit too early, but 4 a.m. seems like the perfect time to begin a drive.

As for staying in Beatty, it’s a small town with some interesting history. I find it appealing, especially given my interest in uncovering lesser-known historical details about towns like this.

[arunrajk81]

Originally Posted by karthikd21

Amazing trip! What better vehicle to chose other than the new LC Loved your drive. One of the best places I have ever been to. Did you not visit Ubehebe crater?

No, I didn’t visit Ubehebe Crater. The plan was to focus on sightseeing and hiking on the first day and then take the backcountry drives on the second day. However, there wasn’t enough time to explore all the points of interest, which would probably require at least three days.

[josejoseph]

Thanks for this wonderful write-up. I have an upcoming trip next week from San Jose to Death Valley and Grand Canyon and will use yours for reference.

Your Prado looks very impressive!

[Amrik Singh]

It maybe a TL on Death Valley, but, contrary to its name, it is very much alive. Very informative and nicely captured moments. Thanks for sharing.