15th October 2009, 19:35
| #1 |
| BHPian  Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Bangalore
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| Bangalore to Leh, Gama to Lama *** Cross posted from my travelogue on bcmtouring.com*** A prologue This is an account of the trip to Leh that we recently went on. A trip that that was almost 5 years in the making. A trip that was constantly plagued by postponements and doubts. A trip that was ardous and difficult to say the least. A trip that was one of a lifetime. Peep peep, don't sleep There might be some parts that you might find not so interesting. But peep peep, don't sleep. Cause - just as in the mountains - carry on for around the turn you might find something that grabs and holds your attention. So, bear with me through the thick and thin of this travelogue and I promise you a journey. Lets take a quick walk down the last few years: 2005 Q1. We plan to go to Leh in the summer during my summer vacations. 2005 May. The roads are closed due to snow. We replan and go to Kinnaur instead. Our love affair with the mountains is born. 2006 Q1. We plan to go to Leh in the summer after my college is over. 2006 May. I was looking for a job change, couldn't be away for long. We plan to do the trip next year. 2007 Q1. We plan to go to Leh in the summer. 2007 May. Rashi cannot get hols. Lets do the trip next year. Damn and blast. 2008 Q1. We plan to go to Leh in the summer. Lets definitely do it this year. 2008 May. We have to move into our own flat. Rashi won't get hols after the move. Crap! We don't have any other option. Lets definitely go next year. 2009 early Q1. We plan to go to Leh in the summer. We are going no matter what this year. 2009 March. Rashi has her leave approved. For a shorter duration. We will have to split. 2009 April. Do we do this in June or do we do it on September? We decide on September as we both have some work at office in June. 2009 July. We start preparing for the journey and the stay. Jiju will most probably join us. Mamaji has dropped out. 2009 August. We start preparing the car for the journey. I drop the cab service and start using my car for driving to office again. Jiju will join us. Nandika initially said yes and then dropped out. 2009 September. We are finally going this month. Most preparations done. Jiju will join us. Mamaji and Nandika will also join us. We will take two cars. Mamaji's WagonR and my Shararat. (For the uninitiated, thats the name of the Palio 1.6) 2009 October. 8296 kms. 24 days. Bangalore-Leh-Bangalore. Yes we did it !! Characters Rakesh 'mamaji' Taneja - famous for "S-a-uh", he who always knows the easier way. Rashi 'planner' Bhalla - she who plans and always has a backup plan Kanishk 'yamraj' Jethi - Chief Snowbutt, he who drives long and hard. Ashish 'tough terrain' Kakar - Jiju, he who drives on the toughest terrain. Nandika 'model' Taneja - she who is always ready to strike a pose. Palio 'shararat' 1.6 sports - she who munches miles and spits out potholes. When you think characters, you always want to paint a picture of the characters in your mind. Let me help you a little with that painting. Instead of letting you build the character sketch all on your own, let me provide you with a snap of all of us:  Jiju, Nandika, Mamaji, Rashi, Kanishk Julley That's such a happy word and it invokes such happy feelings. A word that holds the essence of being in Ladakh. A word that I used a lot our Ladakhi sojourn. A word that is used as a greeting. Since we are beginning our journey together, a greeting is in order. Julley  Now, get ready to tighten your seatbelts and proceed on the journey from Bangalore to Leh, Gama to Lama.... To be continued.... |
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15th October 2009, 20:16
| #2 |
| Senior - BHPian Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Bangalore
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| Finally! Good to see you here Kanishk. You are keeping up your promise that you made on facebook  -h |
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15th October 2009, 22:24
| #3 |
| Senior - BHPian  Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: City of seven islands.
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15th October 2009, 23:20
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| Distinguished - BHPian   | |
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15th October 2009, 23:28
| #5 | ||
| BHPian Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Bangalore
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 . Do go for one if you can - its a memory of a lifetime. - Y | ||
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15th October 2009, 23:34
| #6 |
| BHPian Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Bangalore
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| Day 1 - September 11th 2009 Today had finally arrived! After tons and tons of preparations and planning and hoping and praying, the day was finally here! And I wasn't too excited somehow. I suppose that’s because I was a lil bit sleepy after having spent several sleepless nights thinking over what the next few weeks hold for us. Having finished all packing a couple of days ago and after double checking my lists (and still leaving a couple of things for the last minute), we had nothing great to do last night (its another matter that I forgot to take the windscreen cleaner fluid after all the checking and rechecking!). So, off we went to corner house to get some rum n raisin ice cream for eating with rum cake. Ice cream and cake were had by 22:45. Off to bed by 23:30 and somehow I couldn't sleep till 12! I remember looking at my watch, seeing 12 and wondering to myself that the hourly chime had been missed. That’s when the watch chimed! Smiling to myself, I wandered off into never never land. Woke up today morning around 6. Not very groggy but definitely not very excited. A little down thinking that Rashi would be in Bangalore while I left for Delhi. Off I went wandering around the house and tidying up some of the last minute things. The newspaper had not yet come in so couldn't start the day yet… . Got ready, and off I went to the office. And promptly hit a jam at KR Puram flyover! Aaargh! What a way to start a driving day! Crawled through the jam and got cut off by a moron in an Alto! And then by another moron in another car! Decided to take the service lane thinking that this would normally be free. And immediately got stuck behind a chauffeur driven Accent! The moronic driver would neither let me pass nor speed up! Aaaaaargh !! Somehow crossed the nincompoop and then got stuck again as some other nitwit wanted to take a right and had blocked the entire road! And by that time the reserve lamp had come on in full glory happily smiling at me. Although I did expect it to come on sometime today, I didn't want to take a chance with driving all the way back to shell. So, popped into the pump next to office and when the attendant came to me with high hopes, I told him to put in 50 bucks worth of petrol. Taken aback and completely perplexed, the guy asked me again how much I wanted to fill. When in response, I showed him the 50 buck note I had, he looked at me and then took the dispenser back to the other side to fill up a kawasaki's tank before he came back to my car! Looks like he felt cheated somehow!! Anyways, got into the office, did some checking of mails and some final bits of the scam that I run at office (the scam is a whole different story altogether and will be dwelled upon in greater detail elsewhere) and then off I went to the trusty shell petrol pump to tank up for the journey. Got there without much ado and squirted 45 ml of SystemG into the tank and asked the guy to pump up. Shararat's belly full, it was time to make the payment. When I went to do the needful, the attendant told me with a nice smile that maestro cards weren't working today (damn shell petrol pump -I was running into this problem for the second time!!). I wasn't too keen on swiping my credit card (since I didn't know if my credit card would be charged extra or not). Moreover, there was an ATM nearby so I asked the manager to send one of the attendants with me. Went to the ICICI ATM and my card just wouldn't work. That too after standing in the queue for almost 10 minutes! Dang and double damn! Took a U-turn and went to RMZ infinity withdrew the cash, gave the money and went off home! Net time taken, close to half an hour! And I was already running late!! Damn and blast ! Reached home and wolfed down lunch. Rashi had arrived at the same time as I did. Finished off the final bits, packed the stuff into the car (and is it loaded or is it loaded!!), took a quick shower and then it was time to go. I had aimed for 2:00 and it was 2:10. Not bad. Except that mom and Rashi decided to have quick cuppa before leaving!  . All drinking and packing and all done, we left home with the red escort Alto in front and us two in tow. Stopped near the Nagvara junction at the red light to wave Rashi off. And then we were off - no escort, just me and mom and the palio. Took the BEL-Jalahalli route to come up to Peenya crossing. And then, took a right towards Nellamangala to get stuck in a pathetic jam. I should have stuck to the left lane but got into the slower moving right lane somehow. And then the divider came up preventing me from going back. Finally, when the divider got over, I popped back into the left lane. To happily get stuck there as the right one started moving much faster!! Aaaaargh. The road is under construction all the way to Nellamangala. And just to make things a little more enjoyable, some dimwitted moronic #$%&^!# has built two storey high axle breakers on the way! And to top it all, a truck decided that it needed a wheel replacement somewhere along the single lane and so merrily broke down dropping the traffic speed several notches! Navigating all these obstacles was a nightmare. And then in the middle of the nightmare, WHUMPPPP - the car had bottomed out on one of the twin storeys sending my temperature through the roof!Somehow managed to get out of Bangalore traffic and hit the Tumkur road toll plaza. 24 bucks shorter, we got onto some splendid roads. Super awesome part of the journey begins. Congratulations, you have crossed stage one successfully and now its bonus time on the freeway. Cruising along at 80-100, the scenery was superb, the road was superb, everything was just fine. Did I say 80-100? At least that’s what I started off with till I felt a change in the steering wheel weight and saw the speedometer showing 120! Ah well, 120 it will be then. Cause much as I tried, 100 just seemed impossible to maintain in that road. Especially with Davangere being the choice for the overnight stop and little time left on the watch. Mom and I were chatting away all the way. I was driving along without much stress when a trucker suddenly decided to switch lanes and attempt an overtake of another one of his ilk. I slammed on the brakes and saw something fly by me. It was mom going ahead…. She had moved her seat back but it hadn't completely locked! The hard braking had unlocked the seat and sent her flying forward. Thank god for the seat belt that I insist on! That saved her as otherwise she would have hit the windscreen pretty badly. The seat belt did hurt a little but nothing like what could have happened!! A little bit of fist shaking later, off we were again. Roads were mostly awesome. Except a couple of patches near Tumkur that is. We crossed Tumkur and headed on towards Chitradurga. I realized that I was a little tired from the continuous driving and mom suggested that we stop over at the next decent looking roadside restaurant that had a toilet. Which we didn’t find on the left side of the road for another 40km! Yes, there were some on the right side but then they were on the right side across this huge divider that had no break for kms at a stretch! So we finally landed at this place somewhere near Hiriyur and stopped for a bio-break and some coffee. We were there for about 20 odd minutes before we were on our way again. It was close to 5:45 by now and we didn't have much daylight left. Off we sped towards Davangere. In a short while, we saw a rain cloud pouring its insides out somewhere in the distance. A little while later, we saw the sky turn a hue of gold towards the west and a tungsten blue where the rain was towards the east. And the sun was setting in some hills with windmills across a lake of yellow flowers. And then a little while later we saw a rainbow. Mother nature showing off her talents After all that beauty, we came to Chitradurga! The place where time stands still. If you don't want to change even a bit, I'd suggest you come and settle in this town. The reason? The roads here were the same as they were when we came across this place the last time. Which was three years ago. Three years ago, the roads were the same as they were when we had crossed them in 2005. Which was the same as we had crossed them in 2002!! I guess these were probably built in the British era and nobody has bothered to upgrade them. The same flyover that was under construction in 2002 is still under construction today! Somehow, time has forgotten about Chitradurga! The roads are bad to say the least. I guess this must be a Leh trailer!!! With light falling along with the road conditions, driving became a little tougher. I somehow don't prefer driving in the dusk - there is not enough light and the headlamps don't make a difference either! Anyways, we sped on and reached Davangere around 7:30. We found out that the best hotel to stay would be Pooja International. After finding out the directions, I went towards the general area where the hotel was supposed to be. A traffic constable told me that it was just half a km away on the same road. After several half kms, I asked another gentleman about where the hotel was. "A furlong away". A furlong? When was the last time you heard that? A little amused, I went several furlongs further and found the hotel. I guess in Davangere things need to be unzipped. One furlong = 6 furlongs and half a km=3km!! I suppose they made winzip here .The hotel room is pretty decent. Nothing great but then it is worth the 700 on the tariff card! Having taken the largish room, we decided to first get some chow before getting the suitcases from the car. Went to the attached restaurant. This being the heart of south India, I wanted some masala dosas. Which unfortunately was not on the menu. A masala dosa could be had only about 2km away near the railway station. Having an idea by now of how the 2km would unzip, I was in no mood to take out the car and so plopped down on the nearest chair to order from the menu. Masala dosa became egg noodles and rice became schezwan rice and sambar was replaced with garlic sauce. When we ordered the sauce, the waiter came back after a short while to ask us if we wanted it "Salt or sweet?". I asked mom" "Salt or sweet?" "Salt? Must be hot and sweet!" "No, no, he is asking if we want it salty or sweet?" "Sir, it is hot or sweet? Or medium?" "Oh!" Mom: "Medium" Overall the food was decent. Stomach full, we unloaded the suitcases and forgot a few things in the car. Since the car is three storeys down, I didn't have the energy to go and get the stuff. That is why we have to bear the mosquitoes! That is also why I washed my linen with medimix soap today. Statistics: Kms covered: 286 Total time: 5:30 minutes PS: I didn't take any photographs on this day. Instead, here is a short preview of things to come:  [/left] [/center] Last edited by Jaggu : 15th October 2009 at 23:42. Reason: Please go through Announcement before proceeding, 2 smilie per post and no need to link your site on every post. Thanks |
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15th October 2009, 23:36
| #7 |
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16th October 2009, 12:21
| #8 |
| BHPian  Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Bangalore
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16th October 2009, 13:48
| #9 | |
| BHPian Join Date: May 2009 Location: New Delhi
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Sounds yummy... That's one long and adventurous trip. Can't wait for it to all roll out. And the trailer (the picture of all five on the lake) is a great appetiser. Look forward to the rest...  | |
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16th October 2009, 14:50
| #10 | |||
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16th October 2009, 15:12
| #11 |
| BHPian Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Bangalore
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| Day 2 Day 2 - September 12th 2009 Typed on Sep-12-2009, 22:20 Its close to 10:30 in the night. Today was the second day of our trip. Almost a nondescript day in some ways. When I think back on it sitting in this hotel room, nothing seems to strike me as out of the way or noteworthy. Does that mean that I won't take notes? Lets see how long the following glimpses of today's memories become. After penning (or rather typing!) down my thoughts yesterday night, I wandered off into my favourite location of never never land around 11:30 -11:45 just to come smiling back into this world at the sound of the midnight chime. And then I was truly off to visit my favourite corner. Woke up around 6ish when mom when mom woke up and moved about a little. Was feeling terribly sleepy somehow and then when mom asked me the time, I realized that it was only 4:30 and that I had some more time. I couldn't sleep after that. Or at least that’s what I felt cause I don't think I was awake for more than a few minutes! Anyways, woke up around 6:15 this time to meet a blast from the past. A past that was not more than 10 hours old. And the blast was the second innings of the Schezwan fried rice. Ouch! Note to myself: Do not eat things that you are unsure of on a journey. Especially given the fact that the tummy is the weakest part of the system that goes along with you! End Note. While mom was getting ready, I logged in and sent my notes from yesterday to wifey dear. Along with a note to buy some rechargeable batteries as the ones that I was using in my GPS decided to conk off!! We ordered some tea for mom and some bournvita for me. Along came the chappie with two micro cups - one of tea and one of bournvita. We had some methi paranthas that mom had cooked yesterday along with that and then got up to pack the bags and get going. The bill for the stay (including the dinner and the tea/bournvita) came up to 1000/-. That was the exact advance that I'd given yesterday night! Since we were quits, we just had to collect the bill and walk off. No waiting for cards to get authorized, no counting of cash, nothing. Packed up the stuff for the day and then off we went towards the highway. Hotel Puja is situated on the B.P. Road in Davangere. That’s Bangalore-Pune road. So, all we had to do was follow the potholes…. err…the road till it hit the GQ highway. It took us a while to get onto the NH4. Which hadn't changed state since yesterday night and was just as bad as we had left it! Bad highway! Didn't your mom teach you to change in the morning? Anyways, there were tons of diversions and not so good stretches for the next one hour or so before the road became superb again. Heres a secret for you folks. This one is a way to recognize when you are getting closer to a city. You will see lots of morons on two wheelers driving down at full speed. On the wrong side of the divider. And you will also see their country cousins in their tractors too. But then that happens not just near cities but everywhere! A side note: We crossed Tungabhadra river just outside Davangere. Was nice. Saw a truck that had gone down to the bank to withdraw one bath for itself. We left our hotel at 7:45 in the morning. The plan was to drive like crazy for about a couple of hours and then have a biobreak cum breakfast stop. Well, we drove like crazy (or as crazy as the potholes would allow) for a couple of hours. And then we started to look around for a BP petrol station. Why BP you may ask. Well, the thing is that I have this petrocard from Bharat Petroleum. Its got this little chip on it and can be used at BP outlets. What you have to do to use it is to load it up with cash first. Which is what I had done. I had loaded it up with cash before I left for the trip. Lots of cash. In fact tons of cash thinking that this would be a nice thing to do since there would be lots of BP outlets on the way and this way, I don't have to bother about my card not working or carrying extra cash. What I didn't realize is that the highways don't like BP outlets. Or is it vice versa? Anyways, there aren't too many of them on the road. And when they are there, they inevitably are on the other side of the divider where there is no break for miles around! And when they do turn up on the right side (the left side that is if you think directions but right side if you think in terms of correctness), they don't have petrol - they sell only diesel as their cousin outlets on the other side have both petrol and diesel!! And when you finally end up at a station that has petrol, wonder of wonders, they don't sell the regular stuff because somehow BP does not supply that on the highways! Only speed saar! Aaaaaargh. Note to myself: Don’t plan so well in advance. Explore ground realities first. End note. Anyways, I was at a point somewhere in the morning where we were looking for BP outlets with additional bio facilities before I digressed about the superb planning of BP outlets. (Side comment to myself: looks like this post is getting much longer than I thought - do I talk so much as well??!??). We didn't find a suitable outlet. We didn't even find a nice looking restaurant that could be used. The pressure was building up and I really had to go. So, we stopped at a nondescript "mulla da dhaba" where we went. And then I had a small thumsup to replenish lost fluids! And off we went again. For a km and then found a nice BP outlet!! So, we dropped in there. To realize that they were of the diesel only kinds with their petrol cousins across the road with a break in the median just a hundred metres away. While started moving towards the above mentioned break, we saw this Rajasthani dhaba right next door. So we decided that it was time to stop for some breakfast. We had had some more paranthas on the way (while driving) already and weren't too hungry. (Side comment about above paranthas: after having the parantha, I wanted to wipe my hands. So took out the hanky from my right pocket and tried to wipe my left hand. No go. So did some jugglery where the hanky went up in the air, the steering did a little juggle and mom jumped up and took the hanky from me. Now, the hanky resided in my left pocket where it is easy to access for such things). (note to myself - side comments seem to take a lot of space! End note). We decided to have some poha and some coffee at the rajasthani place. The poha was pretty decent though a little saturated with the saturated stuff that doctors warn us about these days and that healthy women in healthy ads try to sell us. Tummys full, we took the break (in the median), and went to the cousin BP outlet. Which was of the speed only saar kinds. So, filled 20l of speed and got back to the highway. Somewhere around noon, we crossed into Maharashtra. And then we came across another BP outlet. I thought I'd fill up some diet petrol for Shararat but the bums had only speed saar. Noticed a restaurant right next to the outlet. I asked the attendant, "Yeh kaisa restaurant hai?". "One number ka hai!". Grumbling to myself that he would obviously state it to be one number ka as it was attached to the outlet, I parked the car thinking we would take a chance. The place was "Hotel Prasad Next". Hopped into the place and looked around. Located on a verdant hillside (some photographs taken), the place was neat and clean. I was so amazed by the fresh green growth on the hillside that I just had to take a couple of snaps. After that, we ordered vada pav. To be told that that was not served there! What? No vada pav? After crossing into Maharastra? So we had to settle for some south indian stuff (idlis and dosas). The idlis were decent. The dosas were lip smacking yummy though. There was this Mysore Dosa (something that we had never had before) that we ordered. It is essentially a masala dosa where they put the green chutney on the dosa and then put the masala. Or something like that. And then they cut it into large spring roll sizes and serve. Yumy stuff. And the whole bill came to just 94 bucks! The attendant was very helpful and courteous. We left a somewhat generous tip. And when we left, the person thanked us profusely. I told him that the food was yummy. We left the place, our hearts full of the warmth of the place and he full of gratitude. Somehow, it left a mark on the day. The view from the restaurant was simply amazing. Some snaps:  The view from Hotel Prasad Next  Another view from the restaurant  Shararat taking a break near hotel prasad next From then on, it was just one mad drive. We kept speeding. And tolling hard! Cause the tolls on the road are pretty high! We kept crossing towns and villages. Had a pitstop at Joshi Vadewale somewhere on the way. The vada pav was good. The special jeera soda tasted like some medicine with soda and jeera! And then we went on towards Pune. Decided to bypass Pune and continue on the expressway till Panvel. Got onto the expressway after a bit of a delay in Pune traffic around 5:30. And then sped like crazy (at 120 kmph which was normal for the day so far! Fortunately, the roads are good and one doesn't feel that one is speeding!). Crossed Lonavala after a short debate on whether we should stop there or not. Decided against it as it would be rainy and cold and we didn't want to spend a night in such weather. While we were crossing Lonavala, we saw this mist covered mountain (the first of many many more to come). The cloud seemed to have parked its butt on the mountaintop! The greenery around the place was so fresh and so lush that I hated the idea of taking my eyes off the mountains and back to the road. Mom did watch the road assiduously though. Somewhere along the way, at a toll booth we saw this line written across the back of an light truck. This so very well captured the essence of our journey:  Himachal, here we come! The morning (and most of the day) was pretty cloudy. No rains, just cloudy. Which is good weather to drive in. We did hit patches of rain today but there weren't too many of those. The ghat section on the pune-bombay expressway was a little under the weather though. There were a few spots when the sun shone out and the sky became a little bluish. I took some snaps (from the moving car) of that. I had taken some shots of the GQ earlier as well.  Shot of the road (GQ)  Another shot of the road (GQ)  Pune Mumbai expressway We sped across the expressway running into some inclement weather on the way. And then we landed at the end of the expressway around 6:30. Now, it was time to find a nice hotel. Which is something that seems to be lacking in these parts! We were really tired and frustrated with not being able to find a decent place. We had thought that we would find some place easily. We didn't realize that this was Mumbai! You just can't stop a person (like we did in Davangere) and ask if there is a good hotel around! After much circling around and contemplating about the dent in my wallet and moving between hotels such as venkat presidency and hotel 3 star and after getting a lot calls from Rashi about where we could go, we finally landed at hotel Dakshin. Not a bad place overall. Just that the room is a little tiny. Especially after yesterdays largish room! We took up the place, paid the advance and went down to have a dinner of dal fry, roti and dahi (yesterdays lessons still smarting on our hindsides I'd say!!). The bill came up to 183/-. Of which 60/- was for curd. Yes, that’s right. Curd for 60/- when it costs 20/- to get a litre of milk from the cow !!! Note to myself: Plan ahead in advance where you are gonna stay. (Note on note: this seems to conflict with earlier note to myself! Ah well!!) End note. The room that we are in is decent, has an ac and costs us a bomb. The bathroom is the size of a beetle's butt. To turn around, one has to swivel on the ball (or heel - your preference) of one foot while drawing your arms in! It's kinda like turning an autorikshaw around. Yes, I know that nobody really turns around in a bathroom like a truck reversing but you still like the idea of the space where you can if you wanted to! I hate a place with no space. The last good thing about today? I didn't have to use medimix. The other good thing about today? The dividers on the roads were planted with flowers. Yellow flowers followed by white flowers followed by pink flowers. Beautiful stuff. Yawn! Time to catch my forty winks. And wait for the midnight chime!! PS: Looks like the post got decently long! Statistics: Distance covered: 733 Time: 12 hours. GPS stats: Trip odometer: 702km Moving time: 09:00 hours Stopped: 01:28. Max speed: 136kmph Moving avg: 78.0kmph Overall avg: 67.0kmph |
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16th October 2009, 18:24
| #12 |
| BHPian Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Bangalore
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| PS: Looks like the post got decently long! You Think?  Well, I am enjoying it! Keep going! |
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17th October 2009, 14:07
| #13 |
| Senior - BHPian  | |
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17th October 2009, 15:39
| #14 | ||
| BHPian Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Bangalore
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Anyways, next time, I will make a list of possible places to stay at the alternative destinations. | ||
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19th October 2009, 11:26
| #15 |
| BHPian  | Indeed a trip of a lifetime. I really like your narration, especially the launch. Waiting for the rest  |
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