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Day three, 26th December dawned grey and cold. I woke up at 5.30 am to peer outside my window in Ginger Manesar to see the world clothed in a thick, translucent, almost milky plastic sheet of fog. I turned in again, knowing full well that I could not start early and it would be better to sleep a bit more to charge myself for the more arduous drive up the hills in the latter part of the day.
Right through the planning stage I knew that the most challenging section would be the drive through the hills, for I had not driven in Uttarakhand before and that the hills here were a altogether different proposition to the hills in the Western Ghats.
Initially I had a choice of routes from Manesar to Ranikhet (Majkhali). The choices had been :
#1 : Manesar - New Delhi - Moradabad BP - Rampur - Pantnagar - Kathgodam - Bhimtal -Bhowali - Ranikhet - Majkhali
#2 : Manesar - New Delhi - Moradabad BP - Tanda -Darhiyal- Bazpur - Kaladhungi - Kathgodam - Bhimtal - Bhowali - Ranikhet - Majkhali
# 3 : Manesar - New Delhi - Moradabad BP - Thakurdwar - Kashipur - Ramnagar - Kaladhungi - Corbett Falls - Kathgodam - Bhimtal - Bhowali - Ranikhet - Majkhali
# 4 : Manesar - New Delhi - Moradabad BP - Ramnagar - Garjiya - Mohan - Bhatronjkhan - Ranikhet - Majkhali
The most well known and traversed is route #1. Almost all bus drivers and tour operators recommend this route as it is the simplest to follow and used intensively
Route #2 is my favourite simply because of the scenic beauty of the route near Kaladhungi; although the beautiful winding road is an undivided two laner through the forest. I could not opt for it as the intense monsoons in September had rendered the road almost non -motorable
Route #3 was included on the strong recommendation of the one and only hvk, and he took the trouble of digging out his old excel to reassure me that I would not lose time over the admittedly lengthier route
Route #4 is the most challenging and the most scenic of all, but as the road is a narrow single lane and driving after 8 pm is not allowed here. Highly recommended by hvk and deky
As you will get from the excel at the bottom, I chose route #1 for its simplicity and regretted it. Moral of my plight : I'll avoid this route like the plague. Reason - bad road from the end of the Moradabad BP till Rampur and terrible traffic ( trucks, cars, three wheelers & two wheelers with atrocious road manners)
Plan : Manesar to Ranikhet (Majkhali), approximate distance 430 kms [NH24, NH121, NH87]. Fuel stop planned for HP at Bhikaji Cama Place, New Delhi and Haldwani.
Halts :
Lunch tentatively planned for around Kuchesar, tea would be nearer Haldwani.
I had got irretrievably late after Moradabad BP and when I rolled into Ginger Pantnagar, I was seriously thinking about halting for the night but wanted to test myself on night driving on the steep ascent of the Himalayas. Finally the desire to drive in the hills proved stronger than any sane thoughts of calling it a day!
Socialising : None
Best section : The drive from Pantnagar to Haldwani and then from Kathgodam to Ranikhet (Majkhali). The lingering thought that I carry of the drive of the ascent is the lorries, cars and two wheelers that I passed on the way, scurrying to the warmth of their homes in the cold dark but beautiful night of the mountains. Reminded me of Longfellow's oft quoted
"Ships that pass in the night, and speak each other in passing, only a signal shown, and a distant voice in the darkness; So on the ocean of life, we pass and speak one another, only a look and a voice, then darkness again and a silence."
Very apt. I also remember that when the snowflake symbol lit up on the dash with its accompanying tinkle that the temperature had crossed 4C ( it was 3 C at the lowest when I exited the Ranikhet cantonment for Majkhali), I realised that I had not seen a human ( or an animal) soul for the last thirty odd kms, and not since I had overtaken a wheezing lorry at Khairna.
Worst section :
1. The NH24/Hapur bypass between the Nizamuddin bridge till Manesar (more of it in the excel below)
2. Between the Moradabad BP through Rampur upto Rudrapur
I could snap only one pic, when I stopped for an impromptu lunch of guavas.
Pic 16 : The Jetta is one with a typical north Indian background
The excel is attached below.
26 Dec 2010 Manesar to Ranikhet.xls
Will try to polish the write up for Ranikhet, the drive from Ranikhet to Corbett Tiger Reserve as soon as possible.
After that the drive from Corbett to imperial New Delhi, New Delhi to Udaipur and the home run from Udaipur to balmy Bombay.
Regards, drive safe